Tool for coax thread
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it sounds like your connector inside the motor has broken off or come loose....these are very touchy and fragile connections which is why they specify to only tighten the coax to the motor by hand/fingers only....do not use a wrench or pliers or any tools....
I used needle nose pliers to tighten the jam nut on the F connector. If the F connector turns, it's broken off the circuit board. Not easy to fix. Normally you would use a deep socket to tighten the jam nut. But don't use a lot of force as the F connecter will break off.
Replacement F connectors are pretty inexpensive, Allelctronics, Digikey, Marlin P Jones has them. Soldering skills will be required.
Well if you do a search on Google you'll find more than one tool that are used to remove/tighten F connectors, they might work for you if only the nut is loose and the connection to the board is not broken. Here's one tool that's listed on Amazon and you might be able to get one at your local electonic store.
Paladin Tools 1928 Coax 3-Way Multi-Tool For CATV "F" RG6
Amazon.com: Paladin Tools 1928 Coax 3-Way Multi-Tool For CATV "F" RG6: Home Improvement
The same thing happened to me when I tightened the F-connector on an SG-9120B too much. The good news is that, due to the design of the connector on that motor, it is probably not broken. You'll need to open the motor, take out the circuit board, and refit the connector onto the base fitting on the board. Once you do that, re-install the board. To tighten the nuts on the f-fitting, you'll need a can wrench or security tool like this one.
The paladin tool and others like it won't work. The socket is too large. I tried a similar tool from Lowe's before ordering the one above.
I will try to post a thread on the subject of taking apart an SG-9120B for this repair. I took lots of pictures (life gave me lemons, so I made lemonade) when I did this about a 6 weeks ago.
The paladin tool and others like it won't work. The socket is too large. I tried a similar tool from Lowe's before ordering the one above.
I will try to post a thread on the subject of taking apart an SG-9120B for this repair. I took lots of pictures (life gave me lemons, so I made lemonade) when I did this about a 6 weeks ago.
The only tool that I found that Lowe's sells is made by Ideal which is a Multi-Tool and is designed to work on both F & BNC connectors which is most likely the reason that it wouldn't work for you. I did a comparison between the BNC which is much larger than the F. and for that reason it wouldn't fit.
Was this the tool that you got at Lowe's?
The Paladin Tool is only for F connectors and is not made for other type connectors so I still think it should work.
Does anyone know what size the jam nut is? It looks a little smaller than the usual 7/16" f connector hardware. Maybe metric?
Ok, I am surprised you can tell any difference.
11mm=0.433"
7/16=0.437
only 4 thousandths of an inch difference.
On my SG2100 I wanted to tighten up, but couldn't get pliers to fit. Just that the nut looks smaller than 11mm.
solrackm,
As noted from the previous responses, if your F-connector on the motor housing was loose and allowed you to turn the whole connector too far when attaching or removing your cable and you have lost signal from the LNBF, you obviously broke the electrical connection between the F-connector and the circuit board within the motor or shorted the leads together. You will have to open the motor and tighten the f-connector solidly on the motor housing wall in the proper position first, then reattach the electrical connections between the F-connector and the board and solder them in place.
If there is no physical damage to the F-Connector and its leads or the board, you will be OK to reuse everything simply. So, then it will just be a matter of securing the F-Connector to the motor housing so that it doesn't happen again. I thought that the external locking nut on my motor was 7/16", but I don't have the same motor brand as you do, so yours may actually be metric as Pixl contemplated. Ensure you get the right wrench or socket. On the inside of the motor, you may need a socket to hold the body of the F-Connector while you tighten the lock nut on the outside. If this happens to be metric also, you will have to get the proper socket for it. If the connector is still attached to the board inside, you will need to cut away part of the wall of the socket to fit over and around the leads or else you will have to desolder the leads and tighten the connector and then resolder the leads. If you have enough room, you might be able to use a needle-nose vice grip pliers or a needle-nose pliers with a wide tip. If the very last threads of the F-connector barrel are stripped, you won't be able to tighten it sufficiently and it will spin on you once again. If this is the case, either get a new connector (best reccommendation) or add a locking spacer washer (if room allows) to stop the jam nut on good threads. I wouldn't use just an ordinary flat washer here, unless you must, use one of those locking washers with the teeth.
RADAR
They go by the name of STAR washer, they come in different configuration and thickness.
Yep, thanks Sergei, use a STAR washer. That will "bite" into the surface of the motor housing and lock it in place much better than just a tight locking nut. And remember what has been said about your coaxial cable - finger tighten it only! No wrenches here!
Also, use some dielectric grease or simple vaseline if you have to to keep moisture at bay and prevent the connectors from siezing up on you. If you find that a finger-tightened cable has been exposed to the elements too long and it is very tight, use a wrench of the proper size to hold the F-Connector when you unscrew the cable connector. Taking an old cable off can be just as detrimental as putting it on too tight. Watch what you are doing and if the F-connector starts to turn on you, STOP! Then do everything you can to prevent it from turning while you remove your cable.
RADAR
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Thank all for the great responses, I actually went and bought a 6" long needle nose plier which worked perfectly. I did not have to squeeze the pliers to tighten it and all the signals came back in its full glory.
Sergei, this is the tool that wouldn't fit. My needle-nose were too large as well, and the security shield tool provided a perfect fit and tightened the nut securely.
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