Dish 622 "E" series running cooler

[Smith P.]

I have FANTASTIC news !!!

The f^&%$&^ fan DOESN'T spinning at ALL ,exclude that time when you hear revving sound.

Well, there is no best placement for a disk if the fan do not rotating!

Plus I have other big concern about a design of intact area: the "tube" does have opening to internal space, so practically it will suck internal air ( in most part ), but not from right side of the DVR's surround space.

Basically, the fan's intact part must have longer full square shape tube what should be protrude far to right to EXTERNAL cover holes and must not be open to inernal area. Now the part is open at bottom and have big hole on top and too short to right side.

This time I disconnected fan's wires and using my external power supply. Next step will be manage full time fan rotation by switching back to internal connection using existing +3.2V source line or adding 180 Ohm resistor in serie for drop fan voltage from 11.4V to 3.3V.
Power consuption: at 11.4V - 180mA, at 3.3v - 50mA.

Why I came to the solution ? Well, play with the external regulated DC source, I saw my fan stop rotating at 2.65V and kick back when the voltage raised to 2.8V. Listening to his acoustic noise, I found if voltage going up 3.2V is producing good air flow and I can't hear fan noise at midnight time - only a spinning disk noise.

Other trick - changing HW, you can't get instantly new measuring of HDD temperature what you can see in Diagnostics menu/Counters;
so I found that circulated in Internet remote code what Dish CSR sometimes asking us to do in difficult cases - "Reset NVRAM" - works for reset temperature reading.
If you like to try, be aware - ALL your SETTINGS include switch matrix, timers,favorites,etc (exclude what located on your disk) will be ERASED !
Here is - in Diagnostics Menu press buttons: Right, Left, Info, when you'll see almost empty screen with two row of numbers, press SD/HD button and reboot DVR from front panel.

EDIT. Adding pictures.
First three show the bad intact airflow design.
Other where are the lifting up simultaniously tabs.

 

[mraroid]

fun with fans

First is to mount a small (40x40mm?) fan alongside the Broadcom chip blowing across those 2 extruded heatsinks (along the fins). Here's the link to what I have:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...rigkw=fan&support=support&kw=fan&tab=features

I like it. Great idea. I have found that noise levels of 32dBA and above is just way too loud (when installed inside the 622 with the cover on). And I am hard of hearing! So when I look at fans for the 622, I am looking for a much lower noise figure.

I'm thinking just some 2-sided tape on the PCB might be enough to hold that small fan vertically, or I might need to extend something up to the bracket (wire tie like you mentioned?) to make sure it doesn't tip over.

When I installed my first temperature probe, I used a plastic tie wrap (often called cable ties. Here is what I am talking about:http://www.bostonindustrial.com/cableties.html I buy them at any local auto parts stores. You can buy them in many sizes) to secure the probe above the larges chip. But to see what plastic electrical tape would do in this application, I put some high quality tape (made by Scotch) in side. After taping it to some cables, I secured it with string. When I opened the 622 back up after a week or two, I found that the internal heat made the adhesive on the tape come loose. So, I might be concerned if I was using any tape product to hold something in place.

Like you, I own my unit, but I don't want to do anything that is not reversible in case I need to make an exchange.

Yea, that is my plan. I want to be able to reverse any mods in case I have to return my unit.

(BTW - I have the DHPP so I expect a cheap exchange at any time after the warranty expires if I need one and I want to preserve that possibility.)

Can you tell me more about this? I bought my 622 at Costco. Where did you go for a extended warranty? I take it that is what DHPP is (?)

I was also planning to build a 3-fan external system using the fans from that cheapo laptop cooler that appears in the photos. That would probably be a simple styrofoam block that holds the fans
I really don't know what an optimal flow is (more is not necessarily better in a closed area if the flow interferes with itself) so you might have made a better choice.

Well, I am not ahead of you in any way. As a matter of fact, I am moving backwards, thanks to my latest test. I installed this fan:

http://www.hardwarecooling.com/product_info.php/cat/48_80/prod/492/Panaflo_80mm_high_speed_fan?

This 80mm fan (3 and 1/4 inches X 3 and 1/4 inches) is installed to the right of the hard drive, using the 622s internal fan and hard drive structure. I used plastic tie wraps (often called cable ties: http://cableorganizer.com/cable-ties/ I buy them at my local auto parts store. They are super cheep.) to hold the fan in place. I pulled power from a outboard 12V power supply I have in my TV/stereo case.

Here is the bad new:

When the 622 was plugged in, turned off, and cover on, my standing temp is about 99 F. With the above fan installed, turned on, the 622 plugged in but turned off, and cover on, my temperature *increased* to 125F!! Yikes! Not only was this fan way too noisy to be in the same room, it caused the internal temp to rise 26F. I started this test in the evening, and let it run all night.

I am not sure what is going on here. It could be that the fan disrupts the internal air flow and warm air was unable to exit. Or it could be that the fan itself is generating heat. Or it could be a combo of both. In any event, it is not working. I will be pulling it out today.

For the time being, I am looking for a solution with the cover of the 622 in place. Maybe I might change my mind. I think I am going to follow your lead and look at a quiet external fan. I bought this low noise version of the above fan:

http://www.hardwarecooling.com/product_info.php/cat/48_80/prod/493/Panaflo_80mm_Low_speed_Fan?

This fan puts out 24 cfm (compared with 39.6 cfm) and the noise is 21 dBA , compared to 32 dBA. Setting it up on my test bench, it is sure a lot quilter. It may work fine in my TV room. I am not sure if I should use it on the left hand side of the 622 (hot air exit), or on the right, where the cool air goes in.

What do you think?

I can't comment on the thermometers. Do they have a remote probe like I'm using? In that case you can position the probe right in the center of the BC chip. I hold mine in place with a blob of heat sink grease.

Yea, they have a remote probe; it is maybe 12 to 15 inches long. I like your idea of heat sink grease. I am going to look into that.

mraroid

 

[Smith P.]

P. Smith....

I just picked up a version "F" 622 at Costco. It looks like the HD housing & cooling is the same as your earlier version. I would have pulled the entire assembly, but it had a sticker on it that said my warrany would be void if I did. I was thinking about pulling the HD from the assembly, but decided not to. I have read that it is the Maxtor DiamondMax 10 320GB (model 6L320S0) Any thoughts on internal cooling for the 622 or the HD? I have the 622 sitting on a laptop cool mat. I hope the three picture below are helpful.

mraroid

BTW, looking again to your picture I must say you have WD disk, not Maxtor; it could be WD3200KS or WD3200JS as in my last one.
The WD disks are cooler then Maxtor.

 

[mraroid]

Mystery 3 tabs

Other where are the lifting up simultaniously tabs.

Ah! I see where the three tabs are now. I will try to remove the front faceplate today when I remove my internal fan. If I can, I will find the model numbe of my WD HD and report back.

Thanks again.

mraroid

 

[mraroid]

Doing a Master Reset

I found that circulated in Internet remote code what Dish CSR sometimes asking us to do in difficult cases - "Reset NVRAM" - works for reset temperature reading.
If you like to try, be aware - ALL your SETTINGS include switch matrix, timers,favorites,etc (exclude what located on your disk) will be ERASED !
Here is - in Diagnostics Menu press buttons: Right, Left, Info, when you'll see almost empty screen with two row of numbers, press SD/HD button and reboot DVR from front panel.

P Smith...

I have a need to try this.

Looking at the remote, I see a big blue left arrow key (Themes) and a big blue arrow key (Browse). I also found the small blue "Info" button.

But I have not been able to find a button called SD/HD. I have looked on the remote, as well as the controls on the panel of the 622.

I am guessing that I press all three buttons together (Right Arrow, Left Arrow, and Info)

Then I release. Then find the SD/HD button and press and release.

Then I press the power button on the 622.

Where is the SD/HD button?

Thanks

mraroid

 

[Smith P.]

Some remotes (8.0) have the name of the button, others named it as "TV/Video".

NO, not like Ctrl+Alt+Del, but one by one, not so fast , after the thee buttons (Info, Right, Left works too) wait for "Memory Dump" screen, then press TV/Video button.
And hold Power button on front panel for 5 sec for reboot.

 

[Smith P.]

OK, next weekend came - it's time for the hobby.

I found good source of 3.3V for the fan - spare connector J17 (UART);
- a pad 1 (square) carry the 3.3V and a pad 5 is ground.
I did solder two separate pins and pull from my junk box same type of fan connector in 622.
Then moved one (positive) red wire with spring contact to the spare connector.
Summary of the mod you can see on a picture below.

Now the fan always rotating ( as a disk ) at low speed and practically silent.

I'll reset those temperature readings and begin new measures.

EDIT: After reset counters, the all three numbers show 82° F.

 

[Smith P.]

After 12 hours run it show: 113/82/95° F.

 

[sA :: Shaggy]

im having a issue, i have enclosed cabinet w/ all of my electronics (SEE HERE). my stuff was getting to hot so i added a laptop cooler, and also 2 fans in the back of the cabinet one to blow cool air onto the 622 and the other to remove the hot air from the top. right now my average temp is 114. ive tried to do the memory dump but every time i hit the "info" button the info screen pops up.

any advice? also what are the safe levels a 622 can be at?

 

[mraroid]

heat & the 622

my stuff was getting to hot so i added a laptop cooler, and also 2 fans in the back of the cabinet one to blow cool air onto the 622 and the other to remove the hot air from the top.

Shaggy....

The laptop cooler is a great idea.

Also, the 622 sucks in cool air from the right, and blows out warm air on the left. So you can place your fans accordingly. Be carful not to suck air out where cool air goes in, and don't blow the warm air back into the 622.

I don't understand about removing warm air from the top of the 622. The top of the 622 does not have vents.

You are doing great! This will extend the life of your 622 and give your picture with out breakup caused by heat.

mraroid

 

[sA :: Shaggy]

Shaggy....

The laptop cooler is a great idea.

Also, the 622 sucks in cool air from the right, and blows out warm air on the left. So you can place your fans accordingly. Be carful not to suck air out where cool air goes in, and don't blow the warm air back into the 622.

I don't understand about removing warm air from the top of the 622. The top of the 622 does not have vents.

You are doing great! This will extend the life of your 622 and give your picture with out breakup caused by heat.

mraroid

when i said remove air from the top i ment from the top of my cabinet (seeing that heat rises thats seems to be the best place to put an output fan lol). Im still having issues w/ the reset code the stupid info screen pops up. any help?

 

[Smith P.]

Well, my idea wasn't good enough for the 622 - permanent quiet run of the fan powering by 3.3V seems is not enough to cool down a disk and push out hot air.
Temperature still rising .
I could try to find 5V line, but it will increase noise ...

 

[Smith P.]

Just want to share D* HDD cooling design in HR20-700 model.

On pictures below you can see a few major improvements against E* design:
- the disk (Seagate ST3320820SCE) placed upside down - PCB on top;
- thick metal working as heat sink, check how many flaps punched at top;
- a fan positioned that way when air flow exist on both sides of the HDD.

A fun is manufactured by Sunon: MagLev, KDE1206PTV3 (DC12V= 0.7W).

Seems to me they did read our posts and make the changes .
But big minus is the assembly a location in a middle of box, close to face panel; so, unfortunately, the design does not bring fresh air from outside the box, but create internal airflow what will cause raising internal temperature and reduce life of hard drive.

 

[kovach]

I have my avg. temp down to 109. I haven't been able to read anywhere what's acceptable, does anyone know?

I have it in a cabinet and it was scalding hot at first, but I moved some shelves around to give it a little more air, set it on a metal shelf with holes in the bottom, put a laptop cooler under it, and cut a hole in the back of my cabinet and installed a PQ Fan (which is plugged into my switched outlet of my audio receiver).

I still have to open the door to the cabinet at night since the audio receiver is off and the fan's not running, but all of that seems to help tremendously. Actually, the PQ Fan is probably enough (I put that in as a last resort since everything else didn't seem to do enough).

 

[lucarevelli]

I had the Vip622 (D) for 3 months now, and just recently the HDMI output died (about a week ago, after a power cycle it was not working).
My TV (Sceptre 42-Naga) just shows a blue screen. I tried both HDMI1 and HDMI2 of my TV, both blue screen. I connected the component, and it works just fine (I can't tell a degradation in quality) so for now I am fine with that, but I am not 100% sure that the Vip622 is the problem.

But how can I narrow it down to the Vip622 and not to the TV?
If the TV is the problem, I want to RMA it before the warranty expires.
Maybe I should bug E* in replacing my Vip622 with a new one and try. How fast are they in sending you a new Vip622?

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Luca

 

[Smith P.]

First suggestion - open new thread, ask Mods (or do by yourself ) to delete your post here, then I will give you an answer.