Titanium Satellite Titanium ASC 1 gone bad after 1 month in use

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His mistake was letting a lone woman go to a crooked shop. If never fails that they take advantage of that to cheat a female that doesn't know better, or wouldn't know enough to just walk out and go somewhere else.

Not that there aren't some females that know better, but IMO the average one doesn't, and they take advantage of that fact to cheat them.
 
Elsguy said:
Someone told me last week that Wal-Mart will read the code for free. Is that true?
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Not sure, but MANY automotive parts stores will do so. But these OBD2 CAN readers are only like $20 or so any more. You are farther ahead to buy one, and throw it in a drawer for occasional use. Even if you only use it once or twice, it could pay for itself. Most people will hardly need it, as long as they make SURE they always tighten the gas cap after filling up, LOL.
 
primestar31 said:
His mistake was letting a lone woman go to a crooked shop. If never fails that they take advantage of that to cheat a female that doesn't know better, or wouldn't know enough to just walk out and go somewhere else.

Not that there aren't some females that know better, but IMO the average one doesn't, and they take advantage of that fact to cheat them.
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What makes you think that was a crooked shop? The new car dealerships do the same thing.
 
zack said:
What makes you think that was a crooked shop? The new car dealerships do the same thing.
Click to expand...

Then they are crooked also. It just doesn't cost $150 to pull a simple code. It only takes a $20 reader, and a few minutes. In my area, ANY auto parts store will do it for FREE, and believe me, there's a LOT of auto parts stores in Michigan.

I could understand $25 or so at a dealership, but NOT any more than that just to pull a code.
 
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primestar31 said:
Not sure, but MANY automotive parts stores will do so. But these OBD2 CAN readers are only like $20 or so any more. You are farther ahead to buy one, and throw it in a drawer for occasional use. Even if you only use it once or twice, it could pay for itself. Most people will hardly need it, as long as they make SURE they always tighten the gas cap after filling up, LOL.
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Most OBD2 CAN readers can only read Generic codes required by the Government! In 1996 OBD2 was mandatory for most vehicles sold in the US. One universal plug ( 16 pin ) that ALL scan tools must be able to connect to! However back then, on some cars you still had to use a special adapter to connect the old plug along with the new OBD2 plug if you wanted your scan tool to work. On some NISSANs, you only used their old plug for both.

I had a guy bring in a Cadillac that he had just bought to show me, along with his new code reader to prove that he did not get taken advantage of!

He claimed it had no codes!

I connected my Solus Pro to it and to make a long story short, it had one manufacture specific only code, not shown up by his code reader, but to be fair,
some will bring up the code but have no definition for it! ??

I said short, so I will not mention the codes that came out of the modules not governed by the OBD2 law!
 
A simple code is really not that simple. The code is actually a symptom of a problem. A thermostat code could be caused by a bad radiator cap. The auto parts store will read the code, print out a description, and give you a list of common causes along with part numbers that they can sell you. Not really free, especially when you consider that a misdiagnosis can cause major engine damage.

My shop charges $30 for a code read. Diagnosis is extra.
 
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Over the years, owning my own code readers has saved me thousands of dollars. I do all my own repairs except for changing tires and windows. My dad was a lifetime mechanic and I learned everything from him.

It makes me ill when I hear how much some people get charged for easy auto repairs these days!
 
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People don't give themselves enough credit for their own ability. A lady friend of mine called a few days ago wanting a recommendation for a plumber. Since I do my own plumbing I wasn't aware of one I could recommend. Just a couple to stay away from. I asked her what the problem was and she said the rubber flush valve in the toilet was leaking. I told her that was so simple even she (who doesn't know a screwdriver from a pair of pliers) could do it easily without tools. I explained how simple it was to get the part from Ace and install it herself. And she did. Then called me and thanked me for saving her hundreds of dollars. ;)

Being a mechanic myself, I can understand some of the frustrations being displayed here. But that $20 code reader can lead you astray if you don't have any idea about OBD systems. A faulty t-stat more than likely resulted in a code defined as " No closed loop operation" The computer control doesn't come fully operational until the engine reaches operating temperature. Only a mechanic would know a stuck open t-stat to be a common cause of that code.
 
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To test thermostats I remove them and put them in a pot on the stove. Then I heat it to near boiling and see if it opens. If its stuck closed I am happy because it is a lot easier and cheaper than other possible causes of overheating.
 
mmewrench said:
A simple code is really not that simple. The code is actually a symptom of a problem. A thermostat code could be caused by a bad radiator cap. The auto parts store will read the code, print out a description, and give you a list of common causes along with part numbers that they can sell you. Not really free, especially when you consider that a misdiagnosis can cause major engine damage.

My shop charges $30 for a code read. Diagnosis is extra.
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I agree with everything you said above,except about the radiator cap? I do not see how that could happen?

How could a P0128 be caused by a a bad radiator cap?
 
zack said:
How could a P0128 be caused by a a bad radiator cap?
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A bad radiator cap can cause coolant loss. Low coolant can cavitate the thermostat, waterpump or temp sensor causing erroneous coolant temp readings setting that code. Of course other symptoms would manifest themselves much sooner I would think.
 
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You know guys, SatelliteGuys has always be pretty lax. I watch these threads and tend to let them wander off topic a little. I believe that too much hard moderation and it takes away from the familyness(yes I know not a real word) of the site. However, here in the last week or so you guys do make me laugh. I watch a thread start on one topic and 3 pages later we go from "What size dish" to "What size tire fits a Ford F-150".
I have had to split a few threads and nudge some back on topic.

If it were just a group of us that have been around here for awhile, I would see no issue with it. When guys get together and talk things tend to go from one thing to the other and that is fine.
...BUT what happens is 6 months down the road when someone is led here via a Google search and read a thread, it makes it tough on them. ;)
 
Magic Static said:
A bad radiator cap can cause coolant loss. Low coolant can cavitate the thermostat, waterpump or temp sensor causing erroneous coolant temp readings setting that code. Of course other symptoms would manifest themselves much sooner I would think.
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OK , magic static, this ends here! No more about auto repairs! You admitted yourself (Of course other symptoms would manifest themselves much sooner) !

I would rather discuss my sat problems.

I have been waiting to look at my skew probe to see if it may be drifting, but the weather has been too warm during the day for for my problem to happen!

I pulled off the cover on the feedhorn throat two days ago, but have had no chance to see it happening! (if it is) ?
 
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zack said:
OK , magic static, this ends here! No more about auto repairs! You admitted yourself (Of course other symptoms would manifest themselves much sooner) !

I would rather discuss my sat problems.

I have been waiting to look at my skew probe to see if it may be drifting, but the weather has been too warm during the day for for my problem to happen!

I pulled off the cover on the feedhorn throat two days ago, but have had no chance to see it happening! (if it is) ?
Click to expand...


I have not replaced the ASC 1 part yet, a friend was to take reference pictures for me last Sat, but he never showed up.

Yesterday, at 4PM, I moved the sat to SES 101 and METV. I finally got a chance to go out and look at the probe when it happened , came back in and regained the signal, then went back out to look again. Repeated this twice, first time I was sure it had moved, second time I was not so sure! I had used a serpentine belt tool knock that cap off the feedhorn ( in other words, I did not lower the dish to the ground to mark the feedhorn with a permanent marker) I was just looking up at it with a flashlight from behind the dish. If the probe is moving it will take reference marks to be sure!

Today, a high temp of 43 degrees and a 100% chance of rain! I think we might have gotten one quarter of an inch during the day off and on. Tonight while on Eutal 113 we had a good shower, and while it was actually raining I was almost losing the signal as fast as I was able to recover it! I would lose it and listen for the blower motor, and not hear it, (first heat element) Regain signal and lose signal again when the blower came on, lose the signal again after the third element came on!

After it quit raining it was all good, Then I lost the signal every time the lightning flashed about half an hour later!

What did Brian say? Something about
servo motors will often step off as they can interpret RFI as PCM control signals.





.
 
zack said:
I have not replaced the ASC 1 part yet, a friend was to take reference pictures for me last Sat, but he never showed up.

Yesterday, at 4PM, I moved the sat to SES 101 and METV. I finally got a chance to go out and look at the probe when it happened , came back in and regained the signal, then went back out to look again. Repeated this twice, first time I was sure it had moved, second time I was not so sure! I had used a serpentine belt tool knock that cap off the feedhorn ( in other words, I did not lower the dish to the ground to mark the feedhorn with a permanent marker) I was just looking up at it with a flashlight from behind the dish. If the probe is moving it will take reference marks to be sure!

Today, a high temp of 43 degrees and a 100% chance of rain! I think we might have gotten one quarter of an inch during the day off and on. Tonight while on Eutal 113 we had a good shower, and while it was actually raining I was almost losing the signal as fast as I was able to recover it! I would lose it and listen for the blower motor, and not hear it, (first heat element) Regain signal and lose signal again when the blower came on, lose the signal again after the third element came on!

After it quit raining it was all good, Then I lost the signal every time the lightning flashed about half an hour later!

What did Brian say? Something about
servo motors will often step off as they can interpret RFI as PCM control signals.





.
Click to expand...


Today started off a little cold but I never lost the signal, even when the heat came on!

I do need to replace the ASC 1 main board as the relay stuck twice today and as Brian said, tapping on the relays is not a long term solution!

I did remember that I did repair the cat 5 phone wire last summer instead of replacing it! (when a stick stuck in the mower deck snagged it)

I have run some new cat 5 from the dish to inside ,I will connect it this weekend, if my friend comes over to take those before pictures on the ASC 1!

I know that this the wrong wire to use, but it is something that I already have ( 500 feet of it ) and it will have not have a splice in it!
 
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Instead of waiting for a friend to take a photo of the current wiring, transfer one plug at a time from the old board to the new board.

Here are the steps:

Drive the dish to count position 0000

  1. Power OFF the rear master power switch on the ASC1
  2. Unplug the ASC1 from the wall outlet
  3. Open the ASC1 case
  4. Observe the routing for the 7 cables
  5. Remove the 4 Philip head screws securing the main PCB to the stand-offs
  6. Remove one cable connector at a time from the old main PCB and transfer to the corresponding location on the new main PCB
  7. Repeat for all 7 cables
  8. Install the new main PCB in place of the old main PCB
  9. Install the 4 Philip head screws
  10. Route the wires as was observed when the case was opened
  11. Before closing the case, be sure the yellow ground wire (attached to the transformer) is reattached to the empty spade on the power plug assembly
  12. Close the case
  13. Plug in the ASC1 to the AC power
  14. Power On the rear master power switch on the ASC1

Time to test functions and reprogram (or reload the back-up satellite list from a PC)
 
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