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you may have something there... I seem to remember that the 922 did it on both and 920 was digital only on the S video. That would explain why it did that.

Ive been trying to find ch 16 analog and may have another problem. when I switch to channel 16 I got a signal strength of 88 but my tv screen says unusable signal(not this is not a function of the 920 but of my analog RCA projection TV) Im using the video S cable I just now switched to the coax...

I tried it with my CS6100 and only got about 7 on the meter so I still have some work to do. I had the rotation pinned with an 1/8 drill bit for lineup.The actuator had moved without the counter wire hooked up so I re aimed that.now just need to find something that can verify aiming. I may have...

I think I have a sat coordinate problem dish may have moved without the counter ticking. Im going to reaim at closest true south one(W9)

Ive used a BUD for over 25 years.Started with a Channel Master 8 ft rotary dial with LNAs and a down converter.Everything was FTA. Upgraded as time went by to keep up with the encoding/scrambling. I parked the newest dish,a 10 ft channel master and GI/Motorola 920 when it reached the 1080 count...

have you tried to unhook the dish,support the actuator arm and see if it will move when commanded sometimes they get frozen in one spot if not moved regularly

my first Channelmaster(which I still have in dead storage) used a down converter same grey paint tho

intresting I have a used bullseye with dual Drakes and a single Ku with corotor that I may use to replace my co rotor2. is there a real advange to using dual Ku's?

watch the date on older units if the battery goes,then its a doorstop

well there goes my idea to have one amp for both sources

OK thanks Voom will the amp I have work thru the diplexers?

Can I use one coax for my C band and OTA? I have places in my house(2 story vaulted ceilings) that will be hard to run new cable.

Humm that makes me wonder if mine has"fixed " it self too. Ive been avoiding a MR to get W5 as my TDT was 1920. edit just tried it and no luck

If its aluminum mesh the smaller dents can be pushed out from behind. carve a chunk of wood for the inside the same a dish curvature to hold on the inside at same time your pushing up. This will require 2 people. Large dents can be removed by heating with a heat gun and dollying and quickly...

My neighbor sold and installed BUDs in the early 80s and told me a good tip when I was putting my first one in(it was a manual tune Channelmaster) He said to use a small B&W TV at the dish for tuning as its better to tune with. Nowadays almost everyone has some sort of fancy meter to tune...

take some detailed pics to post on here. Have you tried hooking the DSR 922 right at the dish with only a few ft of leads? If you locate it to a sat first before you disconnect all you have to reconnect at the dish for temporary trial is the coax. Be sure and power down before you dis connect...

I wouldnt trust a 7 year old battery let alone a 10 yr old one. Dont leave the 920 or 922 unplugged very long. if possible buy a cheap UPS unit,charge it up and use it for keeping power on both the 920 and 922 while transporting. Then use the UPS for protection when installed. If you think this...

You might offer the 920 to someone as bait to set the system up. I personally wouldnt try to mail it to anyone as the unpowered time is the kiss of death to it. Get some good compass readings before you remove it. And if you are taking it apart get a paint marker pen and mark everything.

If you get directly behind the dish and look at it when its aimed at the satellite you will see the LOS. Use the LNB which is in the center,mounted on arms,like a gun sight and record that compass heading. If you are only a few miles away from the dish location,you can maintain the angle its...

Take a compass with you and ask him to move the dish across the arc. Record the extreme ends(East and West) and site these in on your property. I would do some serious research on LOS before buying. where is this located? seems like I saw that ad on CL

Just a thought but can an additional magnet be added to double the pulse count?Looks like it could have a hole drilled and epoxy filled around the magnet. Also wondering if any of the hardware from a crank or cam sensor out of a late model auto could be used.

This may not make any sense to you but you could drill the holes in it with the dish intact. Just rotate it 45* from your proper setting and drill the 1/2inch holes If you nick the pole when going thru the mount no problem as the setscrew will be at least 2 inches away when the dish is...

when cruising thru some Chaparral stuff on net I ran across a dual scalar mount they make for C and Ku band. I cant find it on their website but know they make it. It had the blue caps in a sort of figure 8 with the larger center throat being the C band.

yes drill thru the mount and the pole on one side. This is after its aimed. I would still install the extra nuts and set screws tho hard to do after the mount is up(maybe a large C clamp and put nuts at 180* at the same time). The point Im trying to make about large dishes and high winds are...