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cparker
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Moving to a new house. It's a brick ranch with full basement. It's "L" shaped and not real large. Visualize a 50 ft square and then subtract a 25 foot square from the lower left corner. What remains is roughly the footprint of the house.

My current guess is that the dish(es) will have to be mounted at the upper left of that imaginary drawing, and the TV locations to be serviced will be at the upper right and lower right. I could conceivably be looking at 100 feet of coax between the dish location and the farthest TV. Currently we have just 2 receivers. A VIP622 on our living room TV and a 508PVR in the bedroom. I will also have an outdoor OTA antenna added into the mix somewhere. That is currently only hooked up to the living room TV, but I may want to rethink that to have a single antenna available for living room and bedroom (the bedroom TV now has it's own indoor antenna, but it's on a second floor so it works OK from there).

Should I be thinking about putting in a panel location in the basement somewhere about midpoint of the house?

If so, would I then run 2 RG6 cables from the dish location to the panel and mount switches on the panel? And then run single cables from the panel to the TV locations. Actually I should run 2 RG6 to each TV location ... one for satellite and one for OTA antenna feed.... right?

I'm trying to plan ahead a little. Our mortgage is approved, but we probably won't actually close on the property until mid August.

My wife is asking if I can wall mount our bedroom LCD and hide the satellite receiver. I'm not sure the 508PVR can do RF. I'll have to check. If it can, then there's actually a clothes closet immediately next to where she wants the wall mount so I don't think that would be too difficult. If it can't... then I may have to upgrade that receiver to a 612 :)

I have a good deal of electrical work to do. Upgrade the current 100amp service to 150 (or possibly 200... the house is only 1400 square feet so not sure 200amp is necessary... that will be a purely cost-driven decision once I get estimates)). Change all outlets to grounded outlets. Add some outlets. At that time I'll also ask the electrician about running a proper ground to the end of the house where satellite dishes would mount (opposite ends of the "L"). I'll also be adding cat5 jacks. I have a 24-port patch panel just waiting to be used.

Can you think of anything I'm missing? Or give me advice on the central panel thing? Necessary? Better than not having it central?
15 Replies · 2446 views
cparker
Ok so the 508 isn't an issue.
I'm currently shooting 110/119 and 61.5.
Locals appear to be on 61.5
Location is near Niagara Falls (or Buffalo), NY.
2 dishes.... 3 birds. I thought I had all this in the first post, but I ramble on so much it's probably not easy to spot.

Why my proposed dish location on the house? To get them as far away from the pines I have to shoot over as possible. There's a row of pines down the south side of the house. I am pretty near certain I can clear them looking southwest for 110/119 from the northeast corner of the building AND they won't be visible from the street. I don't think 61.5 will be a problem at all as the pines stop at the back of the house ... they don't run the full length of the property line. So 61.5 should be a very clear shot.

We only have 2 TVs. If I wall mount the bedroom one, then I don't need flexibility in that room. :) Wife is set on the location of the TV in the living room. So I'm not sure I want to add cable connections in that room anywhere else. So why bother with a central panel in the basement? I figured it would be easier LATER if I want to add a run to the back patio, or to the kitchen, to have a panel with switches mounted and stuff right in one place and work from there.

Basement is currently unfinished. I'm going to add 2 rooms down there, neither of which will be media rooms, and it will end up being partly finished... and partly basement. :)

I figured I could decide on a panel location for the satellite stuff and also mount my cat5 patch panel there, locate the DSL modem and switch there, possibly set up multiroom speakers from there.... stuff like that.
whatchel1
Good reason for a panel

Ok so the 508 isn't an issue.
I'm currently shooting 110/119 and 61.5.
Locals appear to be on 61.5
Location is near Niagara Falls (or Buffalo), NY.
2 dishes.... 3 birds. I thought I had all this in the first post, but I ramble on so much it's probably not easy to spot.

Why my proposed dish location on the house? To get them as far away from the pines I have to shoot over as possible. There's a row of pines down the south side of the house. I am pretty near certain I can clear them looking southwest for 110/119 from the northeast corner of the building AND they won't be visible from the street. I don't think 61.5 will be a problem at all as the pines stop at the back of the house ... they don't run the full length of the property line. So 61.5 should be a very clear shot.

We only have 2 TVs. If I wall mount the bedroom one, then I don't need flexibility in that room. :) Wife is set on the location of the TV in the living room. So I'm not sure I want to add cable connections in that room anywhere else. So why bother with a central panel in the basement? I figured it would be easier LATER if I want to add a run to the back patio, or to the kitchen, to have a panel with switches mounted and stuff right in one place and work from there.

Basement is currently unfinished. I'm going to add 2 rooms down there, neither of which will be media rooms, and it will end up being partly finished... and partly basement. :)

I figured I could decide on a panel location for the satellite stuff and also mount my cat5 patch panel there, locate the DSL modem and switch there, possibly set up multiroom speakers from there.... stuff like that.

The above list of electronic devices makes for a good reason to have an A/V panel box. You can mount all the wiring (DSL modem, patch bay, home runs for the Cat 5 and all sat RG 6 cable home runs). The A/V panels from Leviton only cost around $50 and will mount between the studs in a wall. The panel comes with a white metal cover that can be painted to match the surrounding color so you will have a central location that you can connect everything an be able to service easily.
steve4810
The above list of electronic devices makes for a good reason to have an A/V panel box. You can mount all the wiring (DSL modem, patch bay, home runs for the Cat 5 and all sat RG 6 cable home runs). The A/V panels from Leviton only cost around $50 and will mount between the studs in a wall. The panel comes with a white metal cover that can be painted to match the surrounding color so you will have a central location that you can connect everything an be able to service easily.
Shouldn't this guy also consider HDMI wiring? Or is the future a STB on every TV?
cparker
Shouldn't this guy also consider HDMI wiring? Or is the future a STB on every TV?

It's a single story house with a basement and an attic. Running lines really isn't all that hard. :)

My question originally related just to the satellite and antenna. But now I'm thinking that a central location for AV and network and who knows what all else, might not be such a bad idea. I have a pretty good idea of the location I think I'm going to use. It's either in the basement OR in the main floor entry hall closet. I'm sorta leaning towards the basement, personally.
steve4810
It's a single story house with a basement and an attic. Running lines really isn't all that hard. :)

My question originally related just to the satellite and antenna. But now I'm thinking that a central location for AV and network and who knows what all else, might not be such a bad idea. I have a pretty good idea of the location I think I'm going to use. It's either in the basement OR in the main floor entry hall closet. I'm sorta leaning towards the basement, personally.
Did you catch my drift on HDMI? I was getting at the idea that a show that is recorded on one DVR should be available to all TVs in the house... in HD. Without HDMI cables or an external hardrive that you move room to room you can't do this now, on counting slingbox technology that some folks say will fill every cutting edge Dish customer's home.
cparker
Did you catch my drift on HDMI? I was getting at the idea that a show that is recorded on one DVR should be available to all TVs in the house... in HD. Without HDMI cables or an external hardrive that you move room to room you can't do this now, on counting slingbox technology that some folks say will fill every cutting edge Dish customer's home.

I appreciate what you're saying. And if it was a matter of having walls open and putting in whatever I could before they were closed up, I might think differently. But for 3 months... and maybe as many as 6 or 7 months.... I'll be paying 2 mortgages. The new place is getting an electric service entrance upgrade. Probably to 200amp service. That's about $1500 here. Almost all the electrical outlets are 2-prong and I need them all changed over to proper grounded outlets. I am 90% sure there's a bare ground in the boxes, but I won't have an opportunity to open one up until Wednesday evening at the earliest. There's a low voltage lighting control system controlling the overhead fixtures with a master panel at the front entrance and in the main bedroom. It was installed in 1960 and while it's kinda cool, it's also beginning to fail. Replacement parts are not available, and I may have to drop conventional switch legs from every overhead fixture.

See where this is going? The electrical work still has some unknowns that *could* get kinda pricey. And while I *may* be able to run some "future-proofing" wiring once I know the electrical budget needs, my main concern right now is to get what I need for the near term. TV, networking, phone.

A centralized wiring closet appeals to me. I will also (hopefully) help me stay organized. :)

So I really do appreciate all advice and ideas. I just have to weigh them all in as I get more information on what OTHER surprises I may have coming. heheheh.... I hate moving. :)
steve4810
So I really do appreciate all advice and ideas. I just have to weigh them all in as I get more information on what OTHER surprises I may have coming. heheheh.... I hate moving. :)
Ah well. Life is a series of choices.;)

Enjoy your new house and let us know how it comes out. Just add a post to this thread and our memory will be refreshed as we scroll down to the update.
S
Did you catch my drift on HDMI? I was getting at the idea that a show that is recorded on one DVR should be available to all TVs in the house... in HD. Without HDMI cables or an external hardrive that you move room to room you can't do this now, on counting slingbox technology that some folks say will fill every cutting edge Dish customer's home.

You really REALLY don't want to run much HDMI over 50'. You CAN, but then we're getting into signal equalizing and semi-spendy HDMI distribution blocks. For running multiple locations of HD, it's still best to go with quality component video cable as it handles longer distances much better and it can still output 1080p. HDCP is unlikely to be widely enforced (in regards to HD down-rezzing) anytime soon.

My advice on smart panels: Get the largest one you can. You can fit all sorts of fun stuff in 'em. :D I'll have to post the one I put together sometime.

Oh, and make sure the RG-6 you use is sweep-tested to at least 3 GHz. Protip: If you run multiple runs, use different-colored cable (i.e. one black, one white RG-6, same for Cat-6) for easy ID.

I still think monoprice will have the best prices you'll find:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10216&cs_id=1021604&p_id=2963&seq=1&format=2
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10234&cs_id=1023401&p_id=2261&seq=1&format=2
cparker
My advice on smart panels: Get the largest one you can. You can fit all sorts of fun stuff in 'em. :D I'll have to post the one I put together sometime.

Oh, and make sure the RG-6 you use is sweep-tested to at least 3 GHz. Protip: If you run multiple runs, use different-colored cable (i.e. one black, one white RG-6, same for Cat-6) for easy ID.

Yes, please post a pic of your panel. Should I use RG6/u quad shield in the house, or is that not necessary? I was shopping at monoprice. I like them. You think cat6 in the walls? Or would cat5e be fine?

Right now I'm thinking at minimum, I want 2 RG6 and 2 RJ45 at any TV location. I can use RJ45 for R11 but can't go the other way. If I have all of these wired to a patch panel I can make them network or phone pretty easily. If I can stick a third RG6 in there I might do it in case I want to back feed to distribution or something, but I really don't see us doing that. So I won't cry if that don't happen. I think I also want at lease some RCA or binding posts from TV location back to panel so I can wire the rear surrounds... or pipe music to other parts of the house or outside ... haven't worked that out yet.

And I have to get this to a point where I can decide how much I want the electrician to do while he's there and how much I'm willing to do myself. Sometimes I've found it's more cost effective to just have him do it while he's there.
Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
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FTA4PA
Detroit Rock City - Kiss
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sdfntx
I Care About Detroit - Smokey Robinson & the Miracles
dishstaller
I Wanna Talk About Me - Toby Keith
Bobby
98.6 - Keith
harshness
I'm Easy - Keith Carridine
R
Last reply · posted in Computers and Gadgets
Lately my eight year old Dell laptop has been shutting off even when I have a full battery. I have had to keep it plugged up all the time to keep this from happening. Any idea what is causing this? I replaced the battery about three years ago.
2 Replies · 34 views
arlo
A recalibration might be needed. Even if it shows full, the individual cells may have become unbalaced. And the BMS chip in the battery reports false information to the pc.
Try this. Start it up in the bios/uefi and leave it there until the battery dies and it shuts off.
It might just keep running longer than in Windows. Or run for a short while and shut off.
If it's the first case. Probably just needs a balancing. If the latter, the pack might just be dead.
Not throwing stones but perhaps just a cheaply constructed battery with substandard cells. Could be.

Patience. Keep restarting it in bios/uefi until it won't fire up anymore.
Then plug the charger in and let it complete a full charge. And see what happens. If it's better.
Do the same thing one more time. Run it until it dies dead-dead. Then just let it charge, pc shut off.
When charged, it might be better. It might not be.

There are bench jigs that read the actual BMS and override it to let a tech manually monitor and charge the separate packs. They can also reset any "time bombs" in it that cause an otherwise good pack to show bad.
Maybe Santa will be good to me some year.

You might just need a new battery. Maybe the PC power management chip is going. A Dell common thing.
Leaving a laptop plugged in with a full battery is known to reduce the life. Asus for one recommends that you don't leave the charger plugged in all of the time even when shut down. And setting Windows to charge the battery to 85% instead of 100% increases life.
That's all I got.
dishstaller
That's all I got.
That was quite enough....I definitely learned something from your post. Thanks
TRG
TRG
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in Computers and Gadgets
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
5 Replies · 273 views
b4pjoe
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
If you can't get into the router to reserve an IP address just don't use DHCP on the device that needs connected and assign it to a specific IP address in the network settings.
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HipKat
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
They are not. Your best bet is to set up a third-party router, attached to the Starlink for your server, that you can get into, like a Linksys, etc
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Foxbat
…it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
The Starlink V5 Install Kit I just got comes with the Mini Router. It is pretty limited in what it can do. For example, it can provide only one IP subnet at a time, no Guest Network, but it does support the pass-thru to a third-party Router. You can also split the Wi-Fi into separate 5 GHz & 2.4 GHz SSIDs to help some IoT devices that don't support 5 GHz bands to work.

The larger Starlink Router that still comes with the V4 Kit does support a Guest Network with separate IPv4 Subnet, but it's $120 from Starlink. And it still won't do DHCP Reservations.
harshness
If you can restrict the DHCP address space to assign addresses to one end of the subnet (i.e. x.x.x.50+), you can manually assign the IP address on pretty much any operating system. This is a default behavior on several popular routers. As the Router Mini only supports 235 devices, I expect that's already done.

Another option is to use a router that supports PoE to power the antenna. This article discusses that option (under PoE Power heading):

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Foxbat
Now that I've had the v5 kit with the Mini Router, it's not as bad as I first thought. Yes, no DHCP reservations, but you can set up multiple SSIDs that have separate IPv4 subnets, and like the big brother, you can select from 192.168.x.0/24 or 10.x.0.0/16 (where "x" is 1-4).

You can also split a subnet and have different SSIDs for the 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz channels to handle some IoT devices. I haven't discovered what subnet the 2nd NIC on the router assigns, I'm guessing it's the first subnet.
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
2 Replies · 44 views
dishstaller
Sorry for posting the wrong link. Just corrected it.
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Terrible tragedy. You would think that they would have safe guards in place that would prevent something like this from happening. I guess if you are going to ride in a passenger train it might be best to get a car near the rear.

2 Replies · 49 views
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Jimbo
Terrible tragedy. You would think that they would have safe guards in place that would prevent something like this from happening. I guess if you are going to ride in a passenger train it might be best to get a car near the rear.

They will have to look at the switching sections to determine WHY 2 trains were on the same track ... at the same time.
dishstaller
Thought this article might be of interest to some of you who might travel via train.