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codee

Last reply Dec 31, 2008 · posted in DISH Network Support Forum

New Dish Install, whats included?

Good evening!

I'm having dish installed at my new house on thurs, and I'm wondering what dish will/won't include with the install as far as parts go. I'm getting a 1000.4 dish (eastern Arc, twincities, mn 55448) plus I'd like a aux dish at 117.5 (I already have a few extra dishs and LNBs). I also have a new channel master 4221 antenna and mast for OTA channels as well. I'm getting 2 722ks to start with, and both will be backfeeding to other TVs in the house. I have Comcast DVRs on all my tvs right now, and will need to use Diplexers to get the OTA+dish feeds ran using the lease amount of extra outlets. I will be running al the outlets internally myself before thurs because everything needs wallfishes from the 3rd story to the basement, and the basement needs reverse tip'n'drills and im pretty sure the install tech wouldnt be up for that (2 to each reciever - 1 for the dish+OTA and 1 for backfeeding) - everything running to a central location in my basement. I will also run all the lines from the housebocx outside to the switch location in the basement -

My questions are -

-Does dish supply the diplexers needed to accomplish the OTA+SAT feed combining/seperating? I'll need 4 or 6 from what I can tell.

-How many feeds will be coming from the dish area? (100.4 + 117.5+OTA) Can the OTA antenna feed be carried on the same line as one of the sat lines to the switch? I'm guessing I'll need 4 or 5 lines from the dishs to the switch and I'd like to get them run from the housebox to the switch prior to the install.

I'm a lead tech for Comcast and any/everything we need is always included with installs but I dont want to be caught with a surprise come thurs and not be prepared....Everything will be basically run for the install tech though aside from the Coax to the dishs/antenna themself so I'm thinkin we'll be ok.....

thanks

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Agonizing Fury

Dec 31, 2008

AFAIK (and I'm not in a 1000.4 market so I'm not positive about this) the 118.7 dish will run to the IN port on the 1000.4 dish and the tech will only need 2 lines from the dish to the ground block, and then 2 lines + 1 for your OTA From the Ground block to the central cable location. Switch is built into the 1000.4 LNB. If the 1000.4 is not capable of running 118.7 on the IN port, then they will need 4 Lines (3 From 1000.4, 1 From 118.7) to the ground block and 4 Lines + 1 for OTA to the central cable location. This setup would require a DPP44 switch at the central location. The OTA antenna could be diplexed on a SAT line from the ground block to the main tie in point in the basement, but I would highly recommend a separate line as each Diplexer causes about 2 dB of signal loss on the VHF/UHF side. I would also recommend, unless you have really stong local channels, to diplex the SAT and TV2 lines and put the OTA on the second line you are fishing. Any diplexers/splitters/etc necessary should be included with the installation. Feel free to ask if you have anymore questions.

codee

Dec 31, 2008

Agonizing Fury said:
AFAIK (and I'm not in a 1000.4 market so I'm not positive about this) the 118.7 dish will run to the IN port on the 1000.4 dish and the tech will only need 2 lines from the dish to the ground block, and then 2 lines + 1 for your OTA From the Ground block to the central cable location. Switch is built into the 1000.4 LNB. If the 1000.4 is not capable of running 118.7 on the IN port, then they will need 4 Lines (3 From 1000.4, 1 From 118.7) to the ground block and 4 Lines + 1 for OTA to the central cable location. This setup would require a DPP44 switch at the central location. The OTA antenna could be diplexed on a SAT line from the ground block to the main tie in point in the basement, but I would highly recommend a separate line as each Diplexer causes about 2 dB of signal loss on the VHF/UHF side. I would also recommend, unless you have really stong local channels, to diplex the SAT and TV2 lines and put the OTA on the second line you are fishing. Any diplexers/splitters/etc necessary should be included with the installation. Feel free to ask if you have anymore questions.

Thanks for the tip on the diplexers causing signal loss - i'm used to a 2way splitter causing a 3.5db loss in the cable world but didnt even take that into consideration for the OTA antenna.

I will try to confirm that wind dish working off of the in port on the 1000.4 setup, as it will affect the number of lines i run tonight. Each 722 would only need 2 lines correct? (1 for the sat/TV2, and one for OTA?) Then one to eaach TV to backfeed to of course...I wish there was a EASY way to broadcast the TV 2 feed and incorporate it into the Cable DVRs. We (comcast) do that in MDUs that have door entry systems with cameras, etc but that equipment is expensive :-/

So, just to be sure i'm understanding correctly, the OTA can't be diplexed in until the housebox at a minimum correct? Ideally it will have its own feed all the way to the recievers of course. Is that due to the grounding of the dish? I'm not familiar with the NEC for satellites...

Thanks for the help!

PBX_Guy

Dec 31, 2008

It's not expected, but if you feel that the tech does a good job, give the guy a small tip, ie $10 or so. Like your own counterparts, these guys are working for peanuts, but holding down a job rather than living off welfare. If you feel he/she really goes above & beyond for you, raise that amount as you feel is appropriate.

I do not believe that the satellite tech is obligated to connect your OTA for you nor furnish said hardware, tho many will if asked. The Holland DP2 diplexers they carry for doing dual room backfeeds from a 722 or 222 also work well as OTA diplexers. Yes, there is a small insertion loss, though it's generally negligible.

Something I've noticed that sat installers frequently do not do is properly tighten the connectors or use any type of weatherproofing outside (ie, silicone grease on the threads or boots at the ground block). Just because sat installers aren't fighting with inband signal ingress doesn't mean Finger-tight is OK. It's not OK.

Similarly when grounding, some installers may not ground the dish or drive in a proper (per NEC Article 250.52) 8' ground rod when the utility entrance ground is not conveniently nearby. Clamping onto your hose bib when your plumbing is PEX or PVC is also not a proper method of grounding. Claiming they don't have a ground rod on the truck doesn't excuse the fact that it's still a jobsite requirement (as well as a requirement of their training). It's not being unreasonable to expect the job to be done right. Never sign their completion order if anything is left outstanding. Once you sign, they're gone.

PBX_Guy

Dec 31, 2008

codee said:
So, just to be sure i'm understanding correctly, the OTA can't be diplexed in until the housebox at a minimum correct? Ideally it will have its own feed all the way to the recievers of course. Is that due to the grounding of the dish? I'm not familiar with the NEC for satellites...

I cannot think of any valid reason not to diplex-in your OTA with one of the outside sat feeds. There is no RF signal conflict. That will get it into the home node (house box) but then you're still going to have to split it up and distribute to the other TVs. Bringing you OTA in on a separate Coax is usually the best way to do it, however, particularly since you plan to backfeed from the DVR(s).

Backfeeding (and even backfeeding + OTA superimposed) only requires one single coax run to each receiver, not two as you're planning, unless you'll be keeping the cable feed and would like to bring that in to the TVs as well. CATV would of course need to be directly connected to the TVs through an antenna input (or via set top box to a separate/switchable input on the TV)

Curious why as a cable employee you'd be getting satellite? Perhaps it's true what I hear, that Comcast is despised by everyone

Agonizing Fury

Dec 31, 2008

Ummm, if they work for DNS they won't drive ground rods. We're not allowed. Not only that, but just driving an 8' ground rod in the ground does not count as a valid ground in most areas (and it's a great way to set up a ground loop). I know around here, and addition ground rods have to be back bonded to the original house ground with #6 copper. If the job can't be properly grounded to an existing NEC approved ground, we don't do it. The customer may reschedule a job and have a qualified electrician install an additional ground rod where required for the install.

The TV2 signal is an Agile modulated output and can be set for any cable channel from 73 - 125 (skipping some channels in the 90s for some reason), so it should be able to be integrated into your cable for your TV2s. I have done this quite often using a simple splitter as a combiner.

The reason I recommend seperate lines, is that he is already pulling the lines. No more difficult to add one more when you're already pulling them. If he were to diplex the OTA line with a Sat feed from outside, He would have a diplexer outside, one at the tie in point, then a 2 way splitter, then another diplexer to tie it into the line going to the receiver, another two way splitter used as a combiner for the TV2/OTA), then another diplexer at the receiver, as well as another two way used as a combiner for TV2/OTA . Depending on the quality of the diplexers and splitters used at this point, you're looking at a signal loss of 15-20dB. That's not accounting for any cable losses along the way. That's pretty significant, even if you're using an amp somwhere. Not only that but if his antenna has a pre-amp in it, he'll have to run a sperate line from wherever the power inserter is anyways.

codee

Dec 31, 2008

PBX_Guy said:
I cannot think of any valid reason not to diplex-in your OTA with one of the outside sat feeds. There is no RF signal conflict. That will get it into the home node (house box) but then you're still going to have to split it up and distribute to the other TVs. Bringing you OTA in on a separate Coax is usually the best way to do it, however, particularly since you plan to backfeed from the DVR(s).

Backfeeding (and even backfeeding + OTA superimposed) only requires one single coax run to each receiver, not two as you're planning, unless you'll be keeping the cable feed and would like to bring that in to the TVs as well. CATV would of course need to be directly connected to the TVs through an antenna input (or via set top box to a separate/switchable input on the TV)

Curious why as a cable employee you'd be getting satellite? Perhaps it's true what I hear, that Comcast is despised by everyone

I get Comcast for free, so I'll still have the HDDVRs on most the tvs, and regular digital boxes on the remaining but I just like some of the HD programming on dish that Comcast doesnt carry along with the Sirius music channels. I also like the expandability of the DVRs for more storage.

So for about $100, I get Dish top 250 plus platinum HD, 2 VIP722s, every channel comcast offers aside from PPV, 4 Motorol HDDVRs, 2 regular digital boxes, and 50meg down, 10 meg up internet....not too shabby

codee

Dec 31, 2008

PBX_Guy said:
It's not expected, but if you feel that the tech does a good job, give the guy a small tip, ie $10 or so. Like your own counterparts, these guys are working for peanuts, but holding down a job rather than living off welfare. If you feel he/she really goes above & beyond for you, raise that amount as you feel is appropriate.

I do not believe that the satellite tech is obligated to connect your OTA for you nor furnish said hardware, tho many will if asked. The Holland DP2 diplexers they carry for doing dual room backfeeds from a 722 or 222 also work well as OTA diplexers. Yes, there is a small insertion loss, though it's generally negligible.

Something I've noticed that sat installers frequently do not do is properly tighten the connectors or use any type of weatherproofing outside (ie, silicone grease on the threads or boots at the ground block). Just because sat installers aren't fighting with inband signal ingress doesn't mean Finger-tight is OK. It's not OK.

Similarly when grounding, some installers may not ground the dish or drive in a proper (per NEC Article 250.52) 8' ground rod when the utility entrance ground is not conveniently nearby. Clamping onto your hose bib when your plumbing is PEX or PVC is also not a proper method of grounding. Claiming they don't have a ground rod on the truck doesn't excuse the fact that it's still a jobsite requirement (as well as a requirement of their training). It's not being unreasonable to expect the job to be done right. Never sign their completion order if anything is left outstanding. Once you sign, they're gone.

I'm not sure what the installers for Dish make, but if its like my counterparts its not peanuts as far as im concerned lol. BUT, that being said i already stopped and got cash for the tech for a tip. I don't do many actual installs anymore, I mainly do escalations, chronic trouble calls, mainline stuff, etc but when I did installs there was nothin worse then taking the time to do a VERY nice looking install only to have the person push you out the door. I always tip service people they deserve it regardless if its Dish, a delivery guy from lowes, someone working on the furnace, etc - its just a good courtesy in my opinion.

What sticks out with me though, is many times it was the people that looked like they didnt have much extra to give in the first place that go out of their way to make sure they let you know they appreciate it. The ones in the $750,000+ homes dont appreciate anything - they just EXPECT it. Which is ok too, I get paid $XX a hour to perform my job. I just like to offer some gratitude to people...

And I cringe when I walk upto a fitting and it wasnt tightened with a 7/16ths wrench....and I agree, it almsot never is on the gb for sat. There may not be ingress/egress issues but you can still get water in the drop and cause problems! I tighten dish/direct fittings all too often in the field it seems.

And my bonding point is very accessible. I'm huge on grounding - I have 17 techs on my team I am responsible for, and I inspect 5 of each of their jobs every month. If the drop isn't grounded/bonded correctly is a automatic fail.

Thanks for the tip on signing the work order too!

kb7oeb

Dec 31, 2008

Agonizing Fury said:
The TV2 signal is an Agile modulated output and can be set for any cable channel from 73 - 125 (skipping some channels in the 90s for some reason)

95-99 are VHF frequencies between channel 6 and 7, the Dish modulator only does UHF frequencies.

PBX_Guy

Dec 31, 2008

codee said:
I get Comcast for free, so I'll still have the HDDVRs on most the tvs, and regular digital boxes on the remaining but I just like some of the HD programming on dish that Comcast doesnt carry along with the Sirius music channels. I also like the expandability of the DVRs for more storage.

So for about $100, I get Dish top 250 plus platinum HD, 2 VIP722s, every channel comcast offers aside from PPV, 4 Motorol HDDVRs, 2 regular digital boxes, and 50meg down, 10 meg up internet....not too shabby

No, not too shabby if we overlook your electric bill

OT but Sirius/XM on the other hand is in some serious financial trouble w/their stock circling the drain and a huge multi-megabuck obligation coming due in February I believe. The purpose of most mergers is to combine duplicative efforts and reduce operating costs. Unfortunately for Sirius/XM that plan backfired as their technologies are such that dual uplinks & separate distribution systems will need to be maintained. They've laid off some people & changed some channels around, further irritating an already fragile subscriber base. Bottom line, I don't look for them to be around much longer.

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TWiT Tech Podcast Network

9 minutes ago · posted in TWiT Tech Podcast Network

Home Theater Geeks 556

Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Vc6LXyvmmE

Direct YouTube Link - Home Theater Geeks 556
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed

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Scott Greczkowski

Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge

Last reply 14 minutes ago · posted in The Chit Chat Club

Song Name Game Part 3!

Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne

Get it?

An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....

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Bobby

Supporting Founder Lifetime Supporter

Last reply Today at 5:26 PM · posted in DISH Network Support Forum

Dish 4K Event Listings (No Discussion)

This is a thread that will keep you apprised of 4K events that will be showing on Dish channel 540. Keep looking here for information.

As of today, 9-27-17, there are no scheduled events posted for the next 2 weeks. That is subject to change on a daily basis.

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WildBill

Last reply Today at 4:47 PM · posted in DISH Network Support Forum

Problem with Amazon Prime Video

I've been having intermittent problems with Amazon Prime video programs loading using the H3 guide listing. I can get to the program I want to watch, but when I try to view it, it starts to load and then stalls. Eventually, a screen pops up saying "something went wrong, try again later". I've tried rebooting the hopper without success. Sometimes switching the HDMI input on my LG TV works, but not always. I don't have this problem on my phone or computer, so it is not a network or router issue.

I did a quick google search and found that this is a common problem associated with overloading or corruption of the data cache in the Amazon app and the solution is to clear the cache. Easy to do on a computer or phone, but I don't know how to do this on the H3. If anyone a solution or suggestion, I'd appreciate some help. Thanks.

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reubenray

Today at 4:47 PM

I gave up trying to watch Prime through my H3 a long time ago.

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mheisen

Last reply Today at 4:45 PM · posted in DISH Network Support Forum

Hopper 3 with Hopper plus internet connection problems

Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?

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Almighty1

Thursday at 2:50 PM

mheisen said:
Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?

I have a DISH Hopper 3 (Software H713) with Hopper Plus (Software P15403). I have not tried streaming services but I primarily watch TVB Jadeworld international package which is only available by streaming and when I have an issue, I usually have to go to a non-streaming satellite channel first before the streaming channels will work again. What software versions do you have and what is the error message if any are showing on your screen? or is that Dish downloading logo just stuck and never finishes?

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mheisen

Thursday at 6:11 PM

Almighty1 said:
I have a DISH Hopper 3 (Software H713) with Hopper Plus (Software P15403). I have not tried streaming services but I primarily watch TVB Jadeworld international package which is only available by streaming and when I have an issue, I usually have to go to a non-streaming satellite channel first before the streaming channels will work again. What software versions do you have and what is the error message if any are showing on your screen? or is that Dish downloading logo just stuck and never finishes?

I'm on H713 on the Hopper and P15403 on the Hopper Plus. It shows internet connection issues and doesn't finish loading the various services. I see the "loading circle going around. Sometimes I get a message saying that the service is having trouble loading my content and to check the internet connection.

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Almighty1

Thursday at 6:33 PM

mheisen said:
I'm on H713 on the Hopper and P15403 on the Hopper Plus. It shows internet connection issues and doesn't finish loading the various services. I see the "loading circle going around. Sometimes I get a message saying that the service is having trouble loading my content and to check the internet connection.

Did it ever work correctly before? Hard to say what the problem is. Usually for streaming, it will show the Dish logo with lines sweeping down to show downloading, never seen the circle issue. Did you try a manual reboot, red button reset, power cord unplug/replug to see if it makes a difference.

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slow_poke_pete

Friday at 3:38 AM

Almighty1 said:
Did it ever work correctly before? Hard to say what the problem is. Usually for streaming, it will show the Dish logo with lines sweeping down to show downloading, never seen the circle issue. Did you try a manual reboot, red button reset, power cord unplug/replug to see if it makes a difference.

Might be worth just to ditch the hopper plus. No issues here on h713

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slow_poke_pete

Friday at 3:43 AM

mheisen said:
Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?

Buy a roku and dump the hopper plus you'll be better off. If you have a smart tv you don't need either one. No hopper plus here and no issues!!!

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Almighty1

Friday at 3:30 PM

slow_poke_pete said:
Might be worth just to ditch the hopper plus. No issues here on h713

I have a Hopper Plus and no issues either. charlesrshell has both a Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and one without, he doesn't have the same issue. Before blaming it on the Hopper Plus, he should see if the problem still exists without the Hopper Plus connected as it could be the Internet connection itself or some setting in the router itself. There is someone in another thread who has EHD issues on the Hopper 3 only setup but does not have the EHD issues on the Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and he has already tried swapping the EHD and it did not make a difference so like the saying, YMMV.

https://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/th...cognize-ehd-is-connected-after-reboot.423971/

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Almighty1

Friday at 3:34 PM

slow_poke_pete said:
Buy a roku and dump the hopper plus you'll be better off. If you have a smart tv you don't need either one. No hopper plus here and no issues!!!

The Roku costs $$$, Hopper Plus is free. That may not be the only costs as it depends if the TV in question still has available HDMI ports and if not, it will require a HDMI switch and HDMI cable which adds more to the cost.

I have a LG 3D OLED Smart TV and I still need either of them because it does not have Android TV built in. Add a Hopper Plus and see if you actually have issues or not as until you actually tried it, it means nothing.

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jsmit86

Yesterday at 9:05 AM

If the OP has a router and a managed switch, that could be the problem.
I have a Hopper 3 and 5 Joey 4s. I recently updated my Router, Switch and access points with Ubiquiti UniFi gear. I had an issue where the switch interpreted the communication between the hopper internet connection and one of the Joeys as a data loop. I had to change some settings in the switch to re-enable that port. Your router could possibly be doing the same thing blocking the connection.

If your router has a malware connection setting, try disabling it temporarily, and see if the internet comes back. Contact your ISP and see if there is a block happening at the router or switch level, or via the ISP's threat protection.

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Almighty1

Yesterday at 5:20 PM

jsmit86 said:
If the OP has a router and a managed switch, that could be the problem.
I have a Hopper 3 and 5 Joey 4s. I recently updated my Router, Switch and access points with Ubiquiti UniFi gear. I had an issue where the switch interpreted the communication between the hopper internet connection and one of the Joeys as a data loop. I had to change some settings in the switch to re-enable that port. Your router could possibly be doing the same thing blocking the connection.

If your router has a malware connection setting, try disabling it temporarily, and see if the internet comes back. Contact your ISP and see if there is a block happening at the router or switch level, or via the ISP's threat protection.

Can you share what settings you had to change?

Required Inbound & Outbound Network Ports
The standard ports designated for DISH Hopper configurations include:

- TCP Port 80 – HTTP communication
- TCP Port 443 – HTTPS secure communication
- TCP Port 5678 – Neighbor Discovery / Device Sync
- UDP Port 80 – Alternative streaming/network data
- UDP Port 443 – Alternative secure media streams
- UDP Port 5678 – Remote pairing and network discovery

Critical Network & Security Considerations

- UPnP (Universal Plug and Play): Enabling UPnP on your router is the easiest way to allow the Hopper to automatically handle its own port maps.
Internal Communication (MoCA & Local LAN): The Hopper Plus and Joeys communicate internally over your local home network using router's default internal traffic policies. Local firewall software or strict internal VLAN isolation can block the Hopper 3 from seeing the Hopper Plus or Joey extensions.

The other thing is that these are streaming channels which was why I asked if they have worked correctly even without the Hopper Plus as checking the post history of the OP, it appears that the Hopper Plus was added around 1/2 a year ago and from looking at my own Internet settings portion, all the Hopper 3 does is really measure signal strenth for WiFi and probably just check ping times to show it is connected or not to the internet, it does not check the actual speed or latency. Since the OP has a Hopper Plus, OP can always install the Speedtest app for diagnostics and then take a photo of the results and post it here. Before 2017, I used tȯhave 6Mbps/768Kbps ADSL and even though the Hopper 1 and Hopper 3 also showed internet connectivity is okay, everytime my Ring Doorbell is uploading, it would knock the entire internet connection off-line as the upload pipe would be 100% filled by the Ring Door bell uploading the video because the ACKnowledgement packets would not have priority being sent back in time which was fixed with QoS traffic shaping but that still does not mean streaming will work as it requires at least 25Mbps minimum or more if there are other devices on the same connection sharing the bandwidth.

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jsmit86

Today at 4:45 PM

Almighty1 said:
Can you share what settings you had to change?

Required Inbound & Outbound Network Ports
The standard ports designated for DISH Hopper configurations include:

TCP Port 80 – HTTP communication

TCP Port 443 – HTTPS secure communication

TCP Port 5678 – Neighbor Discovery / Device Sync

UDP Port 80 – Alternative streaming/network data

UDP Port 443 – Alternative secure media streams

UDP Port 5678 – Remote pairing and network discovery

Critical Network & Security Considerations

UPnP (Universal Plug and Play): Enabling UPnP on your router is the easiest way to allow the Hopper to automatically handle its own port maps.

Internal Communication (MoCA & Local LAN): The Hopper Plus and Joeys communicate internally over your local home network using router's default internal traffic policies. Local firewall software or strict internal VLAN isolation can block the Hopper 3 from seeing the Hopper Plus or Joey extensions.The other thing is that these are streaming channels which was why I asked if they have worked correctly even without the Hopper Plus as checking the post history of the OP, it appears that the Hopper Plus was added around 1/2 a year ago and from looking at my own Internet settings portion, all the Hopper 3 does is really measure signal strenth for WiFi and probably just check ping times to show it is connected or not to the internet, it does not check the actual speed or latency. Since the OP has a Hopper Plus, OP can always install the Speedtest app for diagnostics and then take a photo of the results and post it here. Before 2017, I used tȯhave 6Mbps/768Kbps ADSL and even though the Hopper 1 and Hopper 3 also showed internet connectivity is okay, everytime my Ring Doorbell is uploading, it would knock the entire internet connection off-line as the upload pipe would be 100% filled by the Ring Door bell uploading the video because the ACKnowledgement packets would not have priority being sent back in time which was fixed with QoS traffic shaping but that still does not mean streaming will work as it requires at least 25Mbps minimum or more if there are other devices on the same connection sharing the bandwidth.

This was for port settings for the switch, not the router.

Originally was recommended to use EDGE vs. Infrastructure, but had to change that back to Infrastructure.

Had to leave STP (Spanning tree protocol) ON, but disable BPDU guard, and also had to disable Non-STP loop protection.

The previous settings were flagging normal dish system packets as a data loop, and fully blocked that port on the UniFI Pro Max 16 POE switch.

These were specific to my managed switch, and may not apply to the OP's issue.

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Peter Parker

Supporting Founder Lifetime Supporter

Last reply Today at 3:51 PM · posted in DISH Network Support Forum

DISH Hopper 3 Software Version 713 Is Out

No idea what improvements might be involved.

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rvvaquero

Oct 21, 2026

That's a lot of information to ingest. However, I don't have the Hopper Plus and my 54 remote is doing crazy things to the Hopper 3. Several times each evening when I press the skip forward button several times to advance through a commercial, it switches the receiver either onto live TV or into suspension. Other buttons will also cause this randomly, I haven't established any patterns I can describe. I use "recall" to go back to my recorded program in progress.

Needless to say, something in the newer Hopper 3 softwares has caused the remote functioning to ......................malfunction. Evidently, it applies to third party remotes as well as DISH's own remotes.

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GRB1959

Oct 21, 2026

rvvaquero said:
That's a lot of information to ingest. However, I don't have the Hopper Plus and my 54 remote is doing crazy things to the Hopper 3. Several times each evening when I press the skip forward button several times to advance through a commercial, it switches the receiver either onto live TV or into suspension. Other buttons will also cause this randomly, I haven't established any patterns I can describe. I use "recall" to go back to my recorded program in progress.

Needless to say, something in the newer Hopper 3 softwares has caused the remote functioning to ......................malfunction. Evidently, it applies to third party remotes as well as DISH's own remotes.

This is exactly the same issue I was having as I had the Hopper 3 and 54 remote without the Hopper Plus and the symptoms were virtually identical to yours.

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ERSanders

Oct 21, 2026

We have had a corolary problem in this and the prior s/w. Using several different 40.0 remotes (yeah, we're old), when one pauses a live or recorded show it becomes a crap shoot whether it will step foreward the 30" as requested, jump to the end, or restart the episode. Tried the famous 60" reboot to no avail and have decided to live with it vs. a receiver swap risk.

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tpribors

Wednesday at 3:56 PM

I think there's a change to the "skip forward 30 seconds". With CBS that does not have auto-skip, if you stack up a bunch of 30 second forwards it seems to stop when the kangaroo signaling the end of the commercial break appears.

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long_time_Dish

Today at 3:51 PM

Also posted this in the 3rd party remote thread.

My Hopper 3 updated itself to H713 last week and the IR issue is worse now. On H711, I could be on an SD channel for several hours and the IR side of my H3 would still be responsive without my having to tap the View button on my Pronto Pro every 15 minutes. Now, if I stay even on an SD channel without tapping the View button at least once an hour, it becomes unresponsive to my Pronto Pro without tapping the View button at least 5-20 times, just like on the HD and 4K channels. So, H713 actually made the issue worse.

brittanygarden

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TWiT Tech Podcast Network

Today at 3:42 PM · posted in TWiT Tech Podcast Network

RTX Spark Runs Linux... Kinda! #shorts

Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!

View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/cVUsPJiCWU8

Direct YouTube Link - RTX Spark Runs Linux... Kinda! #shorts
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed

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dfergie

Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU!

Last reply Today at 3:34 PM · posted in What's Cooking?

What's For Lunch?

We have a Breakfast and Dinner thread so...

Continuing from the Breakfast thread, found Cornbread mix so ...
Yellow Cornbread Mix
2 Hatch Green Chiles -diced
1 Egg
2/3 cup of milk
add to greased pan
Bake for 400f 20-25 minutes(From instructions)
now to put together and try... this to go with pinto beans...

5452 Replies · 336403 views

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dfergie

Thursday at 1:26 PM

Sweet tea…

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TRG

Thursday at 1:50 PM

Tuna salad sandwich on toasted honey whole wheat bread with a handful of kettle chips. Water.

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TRG

Friday at 4:12 PM

Breakfast for lunch. Crispy corned beef hash, home fries, two over easy eggs and sourdough toast.

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TRG

Today at 3:08 PM

Grabbed a burrito on the run. Beef, pinto beans, green chile and cheese. Stewart's cream soda.

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dfergie

Today at 3:34 PM

Beef, bean green chile, cheese homemade burritos here... Water

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TWiT Tech Podcast Network

Today at 3:12 PM · posted in TWiT Tech Podcast Network

How Are Missions Like Gimli Formed at the Planetary Science Institute? #shorts

Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!

View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/HoQ-cCSZ7K4

Direct YouTube Link - How Are Missions Like Gimli Formed at the Planetary Science Institute? #shorts
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed

0 Replies · 6 views

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dishstaller

Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter

Last reply Today at 3:11 PM · posted in The Chit Chat Club

TVs are really getting big these days

Was raining yesterday so I went to Sams up in Dothan to stock up on some things. Haven't been there in quite a while. I was amazed at how large most of the TVs were. When I walked in they had a 100 in Vizio (I think it was Vizio) that was marked down to something like $1,200. The first rows of TVs were all in the 80 in + sizes. The next couple of rows had the "smaller" models....those 75 and under. I was amazed at how small the 75s looked when lined up with the larger screens.

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osu1991

Today at 10:28 AM

Q-LED and Mini LED panels have improved the picture quality and the tv's are so thin and nearly without bezels now. I've thought about replacing the 75in 4k DV/HDR LED Sony in my living room with a newer 86in. That's as big as I can go without construction changes. I watch the 75in 4k DV/HDR Q-LED in my bedroom and the difference between the two is very noticeable. There's nothing wrong with the living room tv though and I don't now that I actually watch enough anymore to really justify it. I could move it out to the patio but the 65in Q-LED out there looks really good and I'd have to change the mount to accomdate a larger tv out there.

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Foxbat

Today at 2:45 PM

I'm at a limit for TV sizes at this time. My Father-in-Law crafted a custom entertainment center for our family room and we were restricted from going too big based on the side cabinets and central bridge fitting in the width of the room. It turns out to be where a 55" screen with bezels fits but no 65" bezel-less screen can fit. I think there was a brief period where 58" screens where a thing, but no more.

So, no huge screens for the Foxbat's…

TRG

Today at 3:04 PM

Foxbat said:
I'm at a limit for TV sizes at this time. My Father-in-Law crafted a custom entertainment center for our family room and we were restricted from going too big based on the side cabinets and central bridge fitting in the width of the room. It turns out to be where a 55" screen with bezels fits but no 65" bezel-less screen can fit. I think there was a brief period where 58" screens where a thing, but no more.

So, no huge screens for the Foxbat's…

55" is plenty big.

dishstaller

Today at 3:11 PM

TRG said:
55" is plenty big.

And to think....I was SO proud of myself when I bought a 27 in TV in the late 80s. Everyone just had a 25 in so I was really in high cotton.

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DISH Hopper 3 Software Version 713 Is Out

RTX Spark Runs Linux... Kinda! #shorts

What's For Lunch?

How Are Missions Like Gimli Formed at the Planetary Science Institute? #shorts

TVs are really getting big these days