Social Feed
I'm in the process of revamping my FTA systems to accommodate a bunch of new dishes and LNBs. To take advantage of the opportunity, I will be sporadically posting documentation of some of the odd changes I'm making along the way.
First up is the DG-380 HH motor used to drive my 1.2m that has a Invacom QPH-031 LNBF (orthofeed for H&V FSS and L&R DSS). I originally set this up to feed all four inputs of a powered 4x8 switch, which in turn feeds 4x1 DisEqC switches, one for each receiver. The other DisEqC ports went to my other dishes, all of which are motorized. One of my receivers (actually a USB box) was designated as the master to control the motors. The switching matrix for all of the dishes is located a substantial distance from the 1.2m, so when I installed it I used a power inserter and a F tee connector to split off the commands and power for the motor from the LNBs. That meant I had five lines, 4 from the LNBF outputs and 1 to the motor, running between the 1.2m and the switch matrix. This seemed a better approach than running a cable to the motor and back to the switch, or requiring the master to always drive the same band/polarity to move the dish. It also kept the LNB outputs from going through the motor.
Afterwards I had one of my new USB boxes fry while driving the 1.2m, a few minutes after first hooking it up. The manufacturer chalked this up to infant mortality and sent a replacement box, which has worked fine for the past half year. Nevertheless I wasn't thrilled about the load placed on the USB box, given my experience and its relatively lightweight power supply. What I wanted was to have the motor power for the DG-380 separated from the receiver commands. That way I could use a beefy power supply to turn the motor and relieve the receiver from supplying any power at all (the 4x8 switch already provides independent power to the connected LNBs. The receiver switches voltages for H&V and 22 KHz on/off, but at a miniscule current). Because the motor power is a constant 18V (or whatever you want it to be), the drive speed doesn't drop if a V polarization is selected.
The best place to make this mod seemed to be in the DG-380 itself. It already has two connectors, so no external changes would be required. This voids the motor warranty, but I could care less. The mod can probably be done in a similar fashion to other motors. The steps are:
1. Loosen and remove the three screws on the bottom of the motor that hold on the top cover.
2. Remove the top cover.
3. Loosen and remove both F-connector hex nuts that mount the circuit board to the case (see "DG-380 Opened" photo). A deep socket worked for me.
4. Disconnect the ribbon cable tying the circuit board to the motor.
5. Cut the two traces indicated in the "DG-380 Circuit Mod" photo and add the jumper wire shown. You should check that the traces are broken with a meter, but be aware there is a nonconductive coating over the board, so you may have to puncture it or scrape some off to make a valid test.
6. That's it. Reassemble the case.
The photo shows which connector accepts the power for the circuit and the motor (right side when looking from the back when the motor is mounted on the mast) and which connector accepts DisEqC/USALS commands (left side). Note the circuit board photo is from underneath, so don't get crossed up.
Other observations:
When I was testing the mod with my USB box, the receiver would not send commands when directly connected to the motor's command port. I could see this on a scope. It apparently wants a little current draw to operate. I simply hooked a spare DisEqC switch in between the motor and the USB box and all was well. That pretty much mimics how this will be set up in real life.
Because both F-connector ports are used up, the receiver commands have to be split from the line(s) to the LNB outputs. Of course this is exactly what I wanted to do in the first place. There are many ways to do this, but a power inserter, F-tee connector and an optional terminator makes a clean install. I put the tee in-line with the receiver cable, and used a M-M F connector to connect it to the inductor-only side of the power inserter. I put a 75 ohm terminator on the capacitor-only side. The port common to both drives the receiver command line.
First up is the DG-380 HH motor used to drive my 1.2m that has a Invacom QPH-031 LNBF (orthofeed for H&V FSS and L&R DSS). I originally set this up to feed all four inputs of a powered 4x8 switch, which in turn feeds 4x1 DisEqC switches, one for each receiver. The other DisEqC ports went to my other dishes, all of which are motorized. One of my receivers (actually a USB box) was designated as the master to control the motors. The switching matrix for all of the dishes is located a substantial distance from the 1.2m, so when I installed it I used a power inserter and a F tee connector to split off the commands and power for the motor from the LNBs. That meant I had five lines, 4 from the LNBF outputs and 1 to the motor, running between the 1.2m and the switch matrix. This seemed a better approach than running a cable to the motor and back to the switch, or requiring the master to always drive the same band/polarity to move the dish. It also kept the LNB outputs from going through the motor.
Afterwards I had one of my new USB boxes fry while driving the 1.2m, a few minutes after first hooking it up. The manufacturer chalked this up to infant mortality and sent a replacement box, which has worked fine for the past half year. Nevertheless I wasn't thrilled about the load placed on the USB box, given my experience and its relatively lightweight power supply. What I wanted was to have the motor power for the DG-380 separated from the receiver commands. That way I could use a beefy power supply to turn the motor and relieve the receiver from supplying any power at all (the 4x8 switch already provides independent power to the connected LNBs. The receiver switches voltages for H&V and 22 KHz on/off, but at a miniscule current). Because the motor power is a constant 18V (or whatever you want it to be), the drive speed doesn't drop if a V polarization is selected.
The best place to make this mod seemed to be in the DG-380 itself. It already has two connectors, so no external changes would be required. This voids the motor warranty, but I could care less. The mod can probably be done in a similar fashion to other motors. The steps are:
1. Loosen and remove the three screws on the bottom of the motor that hold on the top cover.
2. Remove the top cover.
3. Loosen and remove both F-connector hex nuts that mount the circuit board to the case (see "DG-380 Opened" photo). A deep socket worked for me.
4. Disconnect the ribbon cable tying the circuit board to the motor.
5. Cut the two traces indicated in the "DG-380 Circuit Mod" photo and add the jumper wire shown. You should check that the traces are broken with a meter, but be aware there is a nonconductive coating over the board, so you may have to puncture it or scrape some off to make a valid test.
6. That's it. Reassemble the case.
The photo shows which connector accepts the power for the circuit and the motor (right side when looking from the back when the motor is mounted on the mast) and which connector accepts DisEqC/USALS commands (left side). Note the circuit board photo is from underneath, so don't get crossed up.
Other observations:
When I was testing the mod with my USB box, the receiver would not send commands when directly connected to the motor's command port. I could see this on a scope. It apparently wants a little current draw to operate. I simply hooked a spare DisEqC switch in between the motor and the USB box and all was well. That pretty much mimics how this will be set up in real life.
Because both F-connector ports are used up, the receiver commands have to be split from the line(s) to the LNB outputs. Of course this is exactly what I wanted to do in the first place. There are many ways to do this, but a power inserter, F-tee connector and an optional terminator makes a clean install. I put the tee in-line with the receiver cable, and used a M-M F connector to connect it to the inductor-only side of the power inserter. I put a 75 ohm terminator on the capacitor-only side. The port common to both drives the receiver command line.
8 Replies
·
5024 views
easy, and I like it:
I was with you right up to the final paragraph.
Had to read it 8 times to figure out what you were saying.
You might want to include a simple drawing to clarify.
Another tool which would work for the task, is a common diplexer.
Doesn't even need power passing to the TV Antenna side, in this application, so any off-the-shelf unit should work.
OR, you might put a 1uh choke inside the motor on the diseqc command in connector.
I just got in a little shipment from DigiKey, and will send you one if you like.
They were less than the price of the stamp to mail it. -
A traditional power supply for a motor, when you do this, is a laptop supply.
They put out 18 to 22 volts, at several amps, and should last forever in a job like this. - :up
I was with you right up to the final paragraph.
Had to read it 8 times to figure out what you were saying.
You might want to include a simple drawing to clarify.
Another tool which would work for the task, is a common diplexer.
Doesn't even need power passing to the TV Antenna side, in this application, so any off-the-shelf unit should work.
OR, you might put a 1uh choke inside the motor on the diseqc command in connector.
I just got in a little shipment from DigiKey, and will send you one if you like.
They were less than the price of the stamp to mail it. -
A traditional power supply for a motor, when you do this, is a laptop supply.
They put out 18 to 22 volts, at several amps, and should last forever in a job like this. - :up
P
I've attached a drawing of the wiring from the receiver that demonstrates how everything gets split.
Perhaps I'm missing something, but we have to pass receiver DC and 22 KHz to the switch so it can choose polarity/band. We also have to pass 22 KHz (DisEqC/USALS) to the motor. Many splitters/diplexers have diodes wired inside to isolate the ports, which won't help in this case, because they're pointing the wrong way. They also tend to cutoff AC below a few MHz.
The motor already has the necessary chokes inside. Cutting the traces isolates the two paths so I can run two cables to it. Why do I want to run two cables for the motor plus however many run to the LNB outputs? Because my switches are 100' from the dish/motor. Doing this saves a lot of cable (600' vs. 900' given 8 receivers, 4 LNB outputs and a powered 4x8 switch).
I've attached a drawing of the wiring from the receiver that demonstrates how everything gets split.
Perhaps I'm missing something, but we have to pass receiver DC and 22 KHz to the switch so it can choose polarity/band. We also have to pass 22 KHz (DisEqC/USALS) to the motor. Many splitters/diplexers have diodes wired inside to isolate the ports, which won't help in this case, because they're pointing the wrong way. They also tend to cutoff AC below a few MHz.
OR, you might put a 1uh choke inside the motor on the diseqc command in connector.
I just got in a little shipment from DigiKey, and will send you one if you like.
They were less than the price of the stamp to mail it. -
The motor already has the necessary chokes inside. Cutting the traces isolates the two paths so I can run two cables to it. Why do I want to run two cables for the motor plus however many run to the LNB outputs? Because my switches are 100' from the dish/motor. Doing this saves a lot of cable (600' vs. 900' given 8 receivers, 4 LNB outputs and a powered 4x8 switch).
good stuff:
Now that I see your drawing, I realize it was only your use of the term "power inserter" that caused my confusion.
When I said diplexer, I didn't mean any other sort of device nor splitter.
The diplexer common side would go to your receiver.
The high band or satellite side would go to your LNB.
(that is normally power-passing)
The low band or TV antenna side would go to your motor's command 'n control port, carrying the 22khz signal.
(on units which do power-pass, the 22khz gets through - it's possible that is not a universal truth for non-power passing diplexers)
This would prevent the motor from loading down the LNB signal.
The results would be identical in function to your drawing. - :up
I don't believe diplexers have any diodes, but if so, they'd be biased properly to function.
As for using a choke, the one printed on the motor's board is insufficient for its intended purpose.
If we were using the motor unmodified, then the diplexer above, your power inserter, or an additional 1uh choke inserted in series with the printed inductor would be desirable (based on previous reports and measurements).
Wiring up your power inserter as shown, accomplishes the same end result.
Anyway, just more ways to skin the cat.
And I think we all agree as to the need... -
Now that I see your drawing, I realize it was only your use of the term "power inserter" that caused my confusion.
When I said diplexer, I didn't mean any other sort of device nor splitter.
The diplexer common side would go to your receiver.
The high band or satellite side would go to your LNB.
(that is normally power-passing)
The low band or TV antenna side would go to your motor's command 'n control port, carrying the 22khz signal.
(on units which do power-pass, the 22khz gets through - it's possible that is not a universal truth for non-power passing diplexers)
This would prevent the motor from loading down the LNB signal.
The results would be identical in function to your drawing. - :up
I don't believe diplexers have any diodes, but if so, they'd be biased properly to function.
As for using a choke, the one printed on the motor's board is insufficient for its intended purpose.
If we were using the motor unmodified, then the diplexer above, your power inserter, or an additional 1uh choke inserted in series with the printed inductor would be desirable (based on previous reports and measurements).
Wiring up your power inserter as shown, accomplishes the same end result.
Anyway, just more ways to skin the cat.
And I think we all agree as to the need... -
For some reason, the satelliteguys.us site is loading a lot slower than usual on both Chrome on my Asus laptop and Safari on my iPhone.
I'm also seeing longer appearances of the blue bar at the top and the "3 blue bars" loading symbol.
Is anyone else also having the same problem? Thanks in advance.
I'm also seeing longer appearances of the blue bar at the top and the "3 blue bars" loading symbol.
Is anyone else also having the same problem? Thanks in advance.
528 Replies
·
17939 views
Remember folks... just like DNS... its always Foxbat. 
WTF… …What the Foxbat!Remember folks... just like DNS... its always Foxbat.
S
wow what a kick in the balls!!! the wife blames you when things don't work now scott's blaming youWTF… …What the Foxbat!
I know. Here's what Scott has in store for me if I get out of line:wow what a kick in the balls!!! the wife blames you when things don't work now scott's blaming you
S
OMG to freaking funny
Supporting Founder
Several Dish offers showed up today in my account. Once you choose one the rest are removed. Offers were Showtime, Starz, AMC and others.
33 Replies
·
1575 views
Not for me, mines has no mention of how long aka the offer period and the Terms and conditions the $0.00 is good for. All I see is one can lose $5.00 if you decide to remove it before day 31 after you add it to the account.
Staff member
HERE TO HELP YOU!
Cutting Edge
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!
So let the game continue!
The last song was added by Bobby who posted...
One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters
CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!
Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game
Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.
Example:
Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow
Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio
Another example:
Ride the Lightning -- Metallica
Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne
Get it?
An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
So let the game continue!
The last song was added by Bobby who posted...
One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters
CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!
Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game
Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.
Example:
Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow
Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio
Another example:
Ride the Lightning -- Metallica
Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne
Get it?
An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68496 Replies
·
2670648 views
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/z72cjoZP83E
Direct YouTube Link - AI Can Self-Replicate: Unplugging the Threat! #shorts
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/z72cjoZP83E
Direct YouTube Link - AI Can Self-Replicate: Unplugging the Threat! #shorts
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
0 Replies
·
10 views
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/w5TOILSc_U8
Direct YouTube Link - AI Model Poisoning: The Hidden Threat on Hugging Face #shorts
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/w5TOILSc_U8
Direct YouTube Link - AI Model Poisoning: The Hidden Threat on Hugging Face #shorts
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
0 Replies
·
8 views
Pub Member / Supporter
Cutting Edge
I created this thread on the original Edgecutter Cutting Edge Forums site. It's simply a place for those to review the latest software available for those using Windows 10 and Windows 11. To date it has received 112,559 views. I have been asked by staff to continue this thread here.
521 Replies
·
47212 views
To each there own but I've found that Windows can't do much more than Linux can. Can't have everything.
For niche use cases, yes I agree. Kali for ethical hacking and security testing, and running a Cacti server for network monitoring are the two things I have experience in. Plus thousands and thousands of other things, but for every day use I just can't see it. The owner of the GMRS repeater that I pay to access is changing the Tx DPL tones tomorrow, while Chirp is available on Linux, the software to program my MXT500 is not.To each there own but I've found that Windows can't do much more than Linux can. Can't have everything.
I run Fedora and Ubuntu in VMWare, honestly I don't care much for the UI of either of them and I don't feel like spending days/weeks to customize the UI to make it look Windows-like when I could just use Windows. The cartoonish dock at the bottom of the screen reminds me of Apple products.
As I said above, and, FWIW, I run Win11 Pro and Arch on separate 250 GB NVME drives, using F8 to select which I boot to, with a 1TB SSD for storage, accessible to both OSs and a third formatted Nvme I want to use to learn Kali. It was much faster to setup Arch than it was to strip down Windows. Windows still takes much longer to boot.
Help, I'm a little confjused on the activation process.
I purchased the Joey 4 from Solid Signal and shipping box has Call 866 726-4282 to Avtivate new Receiver. That number is Solid Signals number.
I googled and that search said call Dish to activate. I assume that is correct unless this requires a 2 step process.
Please let me know.
Thanks
I purchased the Joey 4 from Solid Signal and shipping box has Call 866 726-4282 to Avtivate new Receiver. That number is Solid Signals number.
I googled and that search said call Dish to activate. I assume that is correct unless this requires a 2 step process.
Please let me know.
Thanks
6 Replies
·
205 views
All good called Dish and new Joey 4 is activated and working.
Old Joey 2 deactivated and no need to return.
Old Joey 2 deactivated and no need to return.
S
i bought mine straight from dish as it was only $ 100.00 bucks!!! had the protection plan they came out removed and deactivated the 4k joey and activated and installed the joey 4.All good called Dish and new Joey 4 is activated and working.
Old Joey 2 deactivated and no need to return.
Supporting Founder
Pub Member / Supporter
Lifetime Supporter
Apple has finally released their Apple TV 4K with built-in Siri and a microphone so it can respond to your queries even if you don't have the remote. It also increases in price, to $299. I had been planning on updating my current Apple TV 4K streamers, but that's $600 for the two of them, and that's a pass at this point.
At $299, it had better come with 256 GB of Storage, Gigabit (or better) Ethernet, the latest HDMI tech and standards, and one year of free Apple One. But it probably won't…
At $299, it had better come with 256 GB of Storage, Gigabit (or better) Ethernet, the latest HDMI tech and standards, and one year of free Apple One. But it probably won't…
Apple TV 4K
Apple TV 4K. New Siri AI and hands-free control. Stunning picture and immersive HomePod surround sound. Works with your Apple and smart home devices.
www.apple.com
14 Replies
·
187 views
S
. apple's been making money off of software and not hardware for a while
they all do that anyways.. ever notice your cell phone slows down when you come up for an upgrade..
. apple's been making money off of software and not hardware for a while
The new curated multiview is now live.
While on many of the sports channels and non sports channels there is a multi view option button. It will pull up a side bar with many different multi view options.
While on many of the sports channels and non sports channels there is a multi view option button. It will pull up a side bar with many different multi view options.
3 Replies
·
169 views
Supporting Founder
Really excited for this season with Kentucky having a new coach and some really exciting recruits. Probably won't last long, but here's hoping this season is great.
141 Replies
·
1362 views
