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Last reply · posted in Free To Air (FTA) Discussion
Hi

I am sorry if I am posting this in the wrong place... total newbie here...
So I have an FTA decoder to receive Dutch TV (BVN) through Astra 4A.
We managed to set everything up (well my husband) and thought we had found the signal, but then realised when we plugged in the decoder that the signal quality seemed ok, but signal strength was very very low??? So does that mean we have the right stellite but something's wrong with the LNB or so?
I must sound like a dummie, but would appreciate to get some opinions on this (in baby language please! :) )

Thanks guys!
5 Replies · 3859 views
L
Look at the Levels again, is it 80% "Signal Strength" and 4% "Quality"? (reverse of your topic)
If so.....
Think of Signal Strength as a indication of a properly connected LNB. (80% is good)
Quality is what you are looking for. The Quality Meter only lights up if the selected Transponder in the Receiver's Setup Menu is active.
According to Astra 4A at 4.8°E - LyngSat, you should have 12605 selected

Can you list the Make and model of your Receiver and LNB?
trommy
We've all been there.Signal strength = the strength of the signal from the LNB;qualaty strength= the strength of the satellite signal.Check Lyngsat.com to see if your dish is big enough.Your settings could be wrong .LNB should be 10750,for North America but maybe different for your bird.Check to see if you're in the footprint of that bird.Post back with your dish size and equipment along with your settings.G'luck
SatelliteAV
The typical European LNBF (the eye out on the dish) is an Universal type and very unlikely a standard type as Trommy suggested. Make sure that the receiver menu setting for the Astra 4A satellite is set to LNB type - Universal. Make sure the LNB power is ON. Select Transponder Frequency 12605 and observe the Signal Quality reading on a small TV temporarily placed beside the dish.

Make sure that the post that the dish is mounted on is perfectly plumb and level. This will make aiming much easier! Did you receive dish aiming coordinates based on your location? If not, you will need to know where to aim the dish. ONce you have the correct aiming coordinates, set the dish elevation angle for the approximate elevation, adjust the LNBF rotation (skew) to the correct angle. With a compass locate a landmark (tree, power pole, etc. as far away as possible that lines up with the compass reading for Astra 4A from your location.

Slowly rotate the dish left or right of the landmark and look for any increase in Signal Quality. If no increase is noted, increase or decrease the elevation angle in 1 degree increments and SLOWLY pan left and right of the landmark. repeat this process until the Signal Meter indicates the highest possible Signal Quality reading. Slightly rotate the LNBF or push the LNBF in towards the reflector or pull away in the mounting clamp to maximize the Signal Quality reading.

Once the Signal Quality is peaked, perform a scan of the satellite to log all available channels.
M
HAPPY :)

Thanks so much for all the help.
Satellit AV, we did as you said, but then also found that TopTV (pay TV here in SA) also runs through the Astra 4A, so we just checked the neighbours dish for that.
HAPPY :)
AcWxRadar
Hi

I am sorry if I am posting this in the wrong place... total newbie here...
So I have an FTA decoder to receive Dutch TV (BVN) through Astra 4A.
We managed to set everything up (well my husband) and thought we had found the signal, but then realised when we plugged in the decoder that the signal quality seemed ok, but signal strength was very very low??? So does that mean we have the right stellite but something's wrong with the LNB or so?
I must sound like a dummie, but would appreciate to get some opinions on this (in baby language please! :) )

Thanks guys!

Thanks so much for all the help.
Satellit AV, we did as you said, but then also found that TopTV (pay TV here in SA) also runs through the Astra 4A, so we just checked the neighbours dish for that.
HAPPY :)

Marisi,

I see that you are pleased with the answers thus far, so I assume that you figured out the situation to your liking.

When I read your initial post, I made up a first responder notion of your situation based upon your wording. Since I do not know if you stated (typed) the situation out as you truly meant it to be, I have to try and read a little "in-between the lines" and make assumptions from my own experiences. You will please forgive me if I am going in the wrong direction because of these notions.

Your decoder, Set Top Box, IRD or receiver (however you like to call it, displays two signal parameters. SIGNAL LEVEL and SIGNAL QUALITY. These two indicators are both important, they reflect two unique measurements, but they are not entirely independant nor are they identical. Let's just say that they are "RELATED" or "Co-Dependant".

The SIGNAL LEVEL is, for all intents and purposes, a measurement of all the electronic "NOISE", good and bad, that the receiver can detect. It includes electrical interference and other background radiation signals, the internal noise from the electronic components themselves as well as the actual satellite signals.

The SIGNAL QUALITY, for all intents and purposes, is a measurement of the DIFFERENCE between ALL the undesireable "NOISE" and the actual satellite signal.

If the satellite antenna is properly aligned to aim at a specific satellite and all the menu parameters within the receiver are set up appropriately, then the satellite signal is "powerful" compared to all the other noise and the signal quality reading will be high. This is the important reading or measurement that you want to see.

The SIGNAL LEVEL, is a composite reading or measurement of everything - all noise including any satellite signal that might be present. But, SIGNAL LEVEL is important because you can detect and extrapolate a great deal of information from this reading. If it is extremely low, it might indicate that you have a poor or NO connection between the receiver and the LNBF on the antenna. It informs you of the "health" of your cabling and connections, the LNBF itself and the accuracy of the setup parameters.

If you do not aim the dish antenna at any satellite and take SIGNAL LEVEL readings, that is a baseline of the what the receiver detects from all the background and inherent or self induced noise. Every receiver displays a relatively standard or typical level of "noise" when not aimed at a sat. This indication varies from receiver to receiver and dependant upon the length of the cable and the type of LNBF and any switches that you may have installed. You have to adjust yourself to know what is normal for your personal equipment since it will vary because of many independant parameters. Your SIGNAL LEVEL readings will be unique to your setup.

You may utilize that "base-line" signal level to assist you in aligning your dish to a satellite. This is because you will detect an increase in the signal level if you dial your dish antenna towards a legitimate satellite. You should detect that the base-line signal level increases, since you added some more electronic "noise" or signal to the overall noise, even if you are not picking out any particular satellite signal just yet. You can detect that there is some other signal besides just the general "noise" there as you are getting closer to the proper alignment with the satellite. So the overall noise level increases regardless if you have isolated that signal perfectly from the total background noise or not.

Once you are truly "locked" onto a legitimate satellite signal, and you have your receiver parameters set up to look for that specific transponder signal, then the SIGNAL QUALITY measurement should "JUMP" up and out of the background noise and show itself as being highly distinct from all the other noise signals.

Many people will tell you that the only important reading is the SIGNAL QUALITY, but I disagree. Now that I have explained what some of the differences are between SIGNAL LEVEL and SIGNAL QUALITY are, I hope you can understand why they are BOTH important. Both readings are extremely helpful to you, but typically for different reasons.

The two measurements are not totally independant of eachother and they are also not redundant for sure. You need both of them to inform you as to what is truly going on within your system. Understanding what they both infer is key and very helpful.

RADAR
Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68624 Replies · 2678510 views
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dishstaller
Owner Of a Lonely Heart - Yes
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long_time_Dish
Lonely Street - Kansas
dishstaller
Lonely is the Night - Billy Squier
long_time_Dish
Lonely People - America
H
PEOPLE Are Strange-The Doors
JSheridan
Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
I know HipKat said that they were working on conversions but we got the official news yesterday right from Dish that starting next month all DMA's will be on the western arc, and all customers will be assigned to that. That's gonna mean a lot of customers around here aren't gonna get Dish unless there are exceptions. Too many mountains and trees.
171 Replies · 4758 views
MikeD-C05
I don't know why DISH doesn't just start a streaming version of DISH and then if you can't see the western arc you go with streaming versions and then they could keep customers if they had good internet speeds. I mean Sling TV could be changed to Streaming DISH TV if they wanted since both companies are under Echostar. Then you would still be able to use your ota antenna with Air TV devices like I do with Air TV Anywhere with 4 ota tuners.
Scott Greczkowski
I don't know why DISH doesn't just start a streaming version of DISH
I have the same wish.
S
Even if you are broadcasting old SD-only shows, I would think advertisers would still want their commercials to look good.
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Jimbo
Even if you are broadcasting old SD-only shows, I would think advertisers would still want their commercials to look good.
Advertisers on SD channels are probably Far and Few, very hard to find, they have very few viewers to watch them.
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Mister B
Advertisers on SD channels are probably Far and Few, very hard to find, they have very few viewers to watch them.
I watch mostly SD channels (H&I, Start and ION, etc.). There are plenty of advertisers, this time of the year it is mostly Medicare Advantage plans, auto extended warranties and the occasional walk-in-tub. They know who is watching.
S
I watch mostly SD channels (H&I, Start and ION, etc.). There are plenty of advertisers, this time of the year it is mostly Medicare Advantage plans, auto extended warranties and the occasional walk-in-tub. They know who is watching.
can't forget the little blue m&m's
charlesrshell
can't forget the little blue m&m's
That's what my wife calls my Viagra!!
B
I have the same wish.
Why?
A lot of people do not have fast internet.
That is why they use satellite
NYDutch
Why?
A lot of people do not have fast internet.
That is why they use satellite
DISH will happily sell them a Starlink system and service.
T
Why didn't Charlie end up launching starlink
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Foxbat
Why didn't Charlie end up launching starlink
Because he didn't have a fleet of reusable rockets. Starlink works because SpaceX is able to launch hundreds (thousands?) of their Starlink satellites for what a single geostationary Internet satellite costs to build and launch on a disposable launcher.
T
But how is it reusable if it's disposable
S
That's what my wife calls my Viagra!!
My gf is 29 years younger than me :shh
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
RIP dude. Always liked his music. He was 83


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YH5Arbm47IQ
1 Replies · 21 views
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
· posted in The Chit Chat Club
This video was put up shortly after I was able to take my family out to Yosemite in 2011. No AI.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6-2fVsFV8E
0 Replies · 12 views
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Love this guy's channel. Looks like Walmart has thrown in the towel when it comes to conventional car batteries.

I bought a new AGM battery from Walmart about a year ago, it is already needing replacing. I thought about just buying a regular battery but from what I've read, that might not be a smart move. Might check my Forscan program and see if I can change the battery type from AGM.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awe7kY5nvdU
18 Replies · 199 views
harshness
When you need a battery, you need a battery.

If you can wait, new technologies are on the not-too-distant horizon.

You're probably doing something wrong if you're only getting a year out of an AGM battery. Heat and infrequent charging both significantly reduce lifetime.
dishstaller
You're probably doing something wrong if you're only getting a year out of an AGM battery. Heat and infrequent charging both significantly reduce lifetime.
Huh? How can I be doing something wrong.....I took out the original battery, that was 6 yrs old and put in a new one.....kinda hard to screw that up. I figure it was just a bad battery....it happens.


The biggest takeaway I got from this video was the Walmart batteries only had something like 85% of battery life left even though they were brand NEW. The ones from O'Reilly all tested 100% of life left.
Jimbo
Huh? How can I be doing something wrong.....I took out the original battery, that was 6 yrs old and put in a new one.....kinda hard to screw that up. I figure it was just a bad battery....it happens.


The biggest takeaway I got from this video was the Walmart batteries only had something like 85% of battery life left even though they were brand NEW. The ones from O'Reilly all tested 100% of life left.
And the Walmart ones mostly had very little warranty.

My last AGM (using now) I got from O Rielly's, its the Super Start ... I got the Platnium, they had several to choose from.
T
He sounds like he's trying to sell me a pocket hose.

I just had to replace a car battery this week and thought I'd look into LiFePo4. Amazon has plenty of them, but all have top posts and only one 'also' has side connections (Group 75).Then I read that they're really lousy in the cold. So, an AGM, but again, almost nothing with side terminals instead of top. In researching that, I read that most mfrs in recent years have dropped side terminals and gone back to the old top posts, which is surprising to me since those are more corrosion-prone, cause the battery to need more space and are generally more hazardous. Finally I just threw up my hands and bought a regular lead-acid at Sam's Club. They had a Group 75 "Duracell" with side terminals only. It was virtually the only such battery with side posts on their shelves
arlo
Had a Die Hard in my folks cellar for over 6 years. Pulled it out, slapped it on a charger for a day. Put it in my 'Cuda and drove it around for a week of my vacation. Next year, the same. But my dad kept it topped off for me.It was a mid 80's battery in early 1990.

Flooded acid batteries like a float voltage of around 13.5-13.8 voltage.
AGM needs a float of 14.2 volts. So if you slap an AGM in where a flooded was. It never gets a full charge.
"Why do they die so fast?" Question answered. There are folks who sell voltage regulators for alternators that are designed to boost float voltage for AGM batteries.
The other way around? Flooded will gas-off a little at 14.2 volts. But seems to tolerate it pretty good.

Lithium car/bike/atv batteries. After 3 batteries in my Harley. The OEM flooded and two AGM's (before the 14.2 volt float requirement to let them live was learned). I bought a lithium for it. 4 year, no gripe warranty after having it tested by an approved store.
The thing started like Thor himself sent a bolt from the sky. Except......try to start it around freezing? Nope. Needed a heating pad.
And I usually like to park it around events in the evening with the parking light on. Looks cool like that.
We could traipse around for a few hours no worries. Hop on, fire it up, and go putt around.
Lithium? A Dakota Lithium at least. The BMS shuts it right down if it discharges below <something>.
Come back. Parking lights off. Won't start. And you know the rest. But it lasted 6 years. A lot better than 'new every two'. And the fact that powersports batteries are warranted for six, maybe nine months. Ludicrous.

I called Noco. Asked all of the right questions. Great warranty. Save some bucks ordering directly, faster service that the wally world alternative.
They addressed (or claimed over the phone) that the shut down was addressed. Sure. The BMS keeps it form being damaged. But if it is shut down because it does become low. Shut down any load (key on, parking or headlights left on) for 10-15 minutes and you get a second try to start your rig. Not a bad thing if it really works. Right?!

Exide, Interstate? Be very afraid. They ain't what they used to be. In Florida my '70 Cutlass had an Interstate (early 90') that lasted 6 years until it dropped its plates at an intersection and boiled over. In Florida, mind you. The last Interstate.....done in 2. Guys down there would suck out the acid and put water in shortly before the warranty ran out. Make it to the auto parts, get them tested. And get a new one pro rated. No more pro rating.
You can't beat an Odyssey. Napa, AC Deco (the better ones). Yup.
The mom and pop Car Quest only sells Die Hard. For a reason, the old man says. So they convinced that a Die HArd Platinum was the hot ticket for me. l will see. Stand by!

You can't cut Mr. Project Farm down. He does great tests of all sorts of things. Not sponsored and pressured to slap a little sugar on his comparisons and reviews. Compared to the Brits and Aussies with their constant overzealous and same sounding (Dave from EEVblog) rant. I like P-Farm a lot. Of course I like AvE (Boltr) too.
Reminds me to beware when wearing shorts around the garage vice.


Opinions may vary.
harshness
And the Walmart ones mostly had very little warranty.
The days of the 84-month warranty appear long gone, regardless of brand or where you acquired it. Warranties tend to be shorter, with much greater dependence on quick prorating.

The big problem for lead-acid batteries (whether flooded or AGM) is that the US no longer produces lead (the last smelter closed in 2013) and must import it.

Recycling covers a good chunk of the need (~70%), but it isn't free.
EarDemon
I've always got regular OEM Ford Motorcraft batteries from the dealership and have never really had an issue. On my old Lincoln Aviator (the SUV from the early 00s, not the CUV of today), I had some phantom drain and went though a few batteries, but that was an anomaly and with the standard warranty I got free replacements. Taking the Aviator out of the picture, I've bought two batteries in my 24 years of driving. One battery replacement in my Mountaineer, one in my Navigator. But I probably would have had another one had I kept it around longer. Didn't have the Bronco long enough, and so far still on the factory battery for my Expedition.

I run more than the average bear. Dash cam, two radar detectors (yes, I'm aware that can be problematic when using simultaneously), laser jammers and a police scanner. I'm in Buffalo, 90 degree summers and 0 degree winters. Once in a while in the dead of winter I'll get an alert from the Ford app saying remote features have been disabled to conserve battery, but it starts right up.
dishstaller
I run more than the average bear. Dash cam, two radar detectors (yes, I'm aware that can be problematic when using simultaneously), laser jammers and a police scanner.
warrior.webp
Ramy
Supporting Founder
Last reply · posted in The Sports Section
Really excited for this season with Kentucky having a new coach and some really exciting recruits. Probably won't last long, but here's hoping this season is great.
168 Replies · 2390 views
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Jimbo
AI Overview


College Football Playoff bracket, schedule, scores, rankings ...

The 2025–26 College Football Playoff concluded with the Indiana Hoosiers winning the national championship by defeating the Miami Hurricanes 27–21. [1, 2, 3]

Playoff Results Summary
The 12-team playoff bracket featured the following key results across each round: [1]
    • First Round: Alabama defeated Oklahoma (34–24), Miami (Fla.) beat Texas A&M (10–3), Ole Miss topped Tulane (41–10), and Oregon defeated James Madison (51–34) at higher-seeded campus sites.
    • Quarterfinals: Miami (Fla.) upset Ohio State (24–14), Oregon shut out Texas Tech (23–0), top-ranked Indiana rolled past Alabama (38–3), and Ole Miss edged Georgia (39–34) across the New Year's Six bowls.
    • Semifinals: Miami (Fla.) advanced past Ole Miss (31–27) in the Peach Bowl, while Indiana dominant-defeated Oregon (56–22) in the Fiesta Bowl.
    • National Championship: Indiana secured the title with a 27–21 victory over Miami (Fla.) at Hard Rock Stadium. [1, 2, 3, 4]
Unfortunately, there was not rankings listed in this summary
AZ.
AZ.
And no teams deserve a bye! Injuries are the largest part of the game that you cant practice for them. Any team can suffer the worst injury at any position on any play. No favorites.
Jimbo
And no teams deserve a bye! Injuries are the largest part of the game that you cant practice for them. Any team can suffer the worst injury at any position on any play. No favorites.
I think they are actually discussing the Top 8 get a Bye this time, if they go to 24.
Then again, I heard something about Play in games for the 16-24 teams ...

Nothing is official yet, so lots of moving parts ...

Can't wait, lets do 24, 3 years later they will want 32 :sick
Y
And no teams deserve a bye! Injuries are the largest part of the game that you cant practice for them. Any team can suffer the worst injury at any position on any play. No favorites.
While the bye can help the top four teams and those the Cartels would like to protect in the playoff, I think the bye is also about making the Cartel championships mean something. One problem with a playoff is it does diminish the conference title a bit.
Jimbo
While the bye can help the top four teams and those the Cartels would like to protect in the playoff, I think the bye is also about making the Cartel championships mean something. One problem with a playoff is it does diminish the conference title a bit.
Once the 24 gets here, there won't be anymore Conference Championships .... or so they say.

Oh what the hell, we really don't need Conferences anymore either ...:coco:(
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dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
· posted in The Chit Chat Club
0 Replies · 29 views
osu1991
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
4 Replies · 68 views
Bobby
Rest in peace. Together again with Spock, Doc, Uhura, and Scotty...
long_time_Dish
Rest in peace, Checkov, and Bester too...
FTA4PA
Rest In Peace 😢
Foxbat
Rest in Peace…