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navychop
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in General Home Theater Equipment
I have two 880 remotes, one is going bad. Specifically, some buttons are not working well, even after opening and cleaning. And somehow it doesn't fit in the cradle well anymore. Not that that was ever a strong point.

So I'm looking at the Harmony One, mostly, with passing interest in the 900 or 1100. But I don't really need RF. I recall posts before about the One, but now I'm wondering, for you folks that have had one, how it's working out. Does it sit in the cradle better than the 880? "Feel" is right? Any comments? Any reason to consider the others?

Right now, it's controlling:
JVC DiLA TV
Onkyo 805 A/V receiver
ViP722
JVC VCR (rarely used)
OPPO 83

But I have it programmed for other activities, and sometimes I connect other devices.

MiL is half trained on the 880, so something similar or simpler is desirable.
17 Replies · 2999 views
John Kotches
I ended up returning the Harmony Link... if it had support for the RF extender it would be great. As it is, I couldn't get the signals from my equiment closet to the projector and lens sled which made the link unworkable for me.

For less compex environments it is (imo) a good solution.
navychop
I've really come to prefer the Harmony One. Still getting used to the button layout. Some are better laid out on the 880, some are better laid out on the H One. It certainly fits snugly in the charging cradle.
John Kotches
navychop:

You're still in the early phase with it. Give it another day or so and then share some thoughts :)
J
Just for information purposes I got the Logitech Harmony 300i(gloss black finish),$29.99+tax at Target, it takes regular batteries(2 AA) and controls 4 devices.I use it to control my Vizio HDTV,VIP722k,Samsung Bluray player and Polk soundbar with wireless subwoofer.

This is my first Logitech Harmony remote control and I really like it.I like that it's USB internet programmable(setup your account online at Logitech),and it's also a learning remote control(to learn features from the devices original remote control).

For what I need a remote control to do the 300i does the job.;)
navychop
navychop:

You're still in the early phase with it. Give it another day or so and then share some thoughts :)

OK, let's compare the two Harmony remotes. First off, both are set up for the Dish ViP722 satellite receiver/DVR, an Onkyo TX-SR805 AV receiver, Oppo 83 optical disc player, VHS (never used, just 'left over'), JVC 61" HDTV, Sony DVR 500 (not actually connected anymore) and a VGA connection for laptop use of the TV screen. Both are programmed identically thru the Harmony site. I just copied over the 880 settings to the One. Originally, I set up the 880 by listing what devices were going to be controlled by the remote. Harmony automatically set up all the "activities" (more on this later). I did redefine the bottom two outboard keys as DVR & SEARCH. These options exist on the touch screen, I'm just used to pressing at that location. Defining the keys is easy, you just look down a list of keys and select which function you want it to perform. You can also teach it new IR signals if need be.

For the Harmony One, initial selections (& some later choices) are made on the touch screen. On the 880, the display was not touch sensitive, you would press a button next to the displayed choice you selected. The touch screen is nice, if rather fond of fingerprints. With Harmony, when you pick up the remote, it comes to life (motion sensitive) and you select an activity on the screen. Activities, which you can name, can be things like DISH - Watch DVD/BD - Radio - Listen to CDs - Watch TV (bypass AV receiver) - Sony DVR - VGA conn. The Harmony site placed these activities in an order I did not care for, so I changed the sequence. VERY easy to do. Initially, three activities are presented on the screen. Later, six onscreen options are available for controls. Also, you can have multiple screens, just scroll right or left. I made Dish the first option, as the most used and the most MiL friendly.

Once you make a selection, such as Dish, you aim the remote at your equipment for a few seconds. Then you see new selections appear on the screen. At this point, most actions you take will be with hard keys; very few choices you want will require the touch screen. I will comment that I think the 880 came to life when picked up ever so slightly faster than the One.

The 880 is more peanut shaped, but the One has a comfortable notch that works just as well for keeping a firm grip. The 880 could sit in it's charging cradle ever so slightly askew and you would not know it until you tried to use it and the batteries were dead. This never happens with the One. It's contact with the cradle is firm. The Harmony One screen is slightly larger, brighter and easier to read. Both are quick to get comfortable with if you are familiar with the standard Dish remote layout. Both have a center diamond that is straddled by volume and channel controls. The 880 has some thin buttons around the screen and dropping down below it. There are no thin buttons on the One. The Activities button, in particular, is much easier to use on the One. This button lets you go from watching Dish, for example, to watching a DVD, without turning off and on the TV set. For those of us with TVs that have a mandatory 90+ second cool down time, this is a mandatory feature.

The Play, Stop, FF, skip and similar buttons are laid out differently. I'm having some difficulty in adjusting, but frankly, they are laid out more logically on the One.

You can adjust the touch screen sensitivity, but I haven't had the need to. I'll note that the 880 was poor at maintaining the time. You could adjust the time, but it always defaulted to a.m. You can adjust the time manually on the One also, but I haven't had the need too; the One seems to keep good time.

I definitely prefer the One over the 880, as do my wife and MiL. But I still use an 880 on my bedroom TV.

Anybody still reading this far? I hope this is of some use; feel free to ask any questions.
Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68655 Replies · 2680128 views
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gms49ers
Jet City Woman - Queensryche
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FTA4PA
Detroit Rock City - Kiss
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sdfntx
I Care About Detroit - Smokey Robinson & the Miracles
dishstaller
I Wanna Talk About Me - Toby Keith
Bobby
98.6 - Keith
R
Last reply · posted in Computers and Gadgets
Lately my eight year old Dell laptop has been shutting off even when I have a full battery. I have had to keep it plugged up all the time to keep this from happening. Any idea what is causing this? I replaced the battery about three years ago.
2 Replies · 34 views
arlo
A recalibration might be needed. Even if it shows full, the individual cells may have become unbalaced. And the BMS chip in the battery reports false information to the pc.
Try this. Start it up in the bios/uefi and leave it there until the battery dies and it shuts off.
It might just keep running longer than in Windows. Or run for a short while and shut off.
If it's the first case. Probably just needs a balancing. If the latter, the pack might just be dead.
Not throwing stones but perhaps just a cheaply constructed battery with substandard cells. Could be.

Patience. Keep restarting it in bios/uefi until it won't fire up anymore.
Then plug the charger in and let it complete a full charge. And see what happens. If it's better.
Do the same thing one more time. Run it until it dies dead-dead. Then just let it charge, pc shut off.
When charged, it might be better. It might not be.

There are bench jigs that read the actual BMS and override it to let a tech manually monitor and charge the separate packs. They can also reset any "time bombs" in it that cause an otherwise good pack to show bad.
Maybe Santa will be good to me some year.

You might just need a new battery. Maybe the PC power management chip is going. A Dell common thing.
Leaving a laptop plugged in with a full battery is known to reduce the life. Asus for one recommends that you don't leave the charger plugged in all of the time even when shut down. And setting Windows to charge the battery to 85% instead of 100% increases life.
That's all I got.
dishstaller
That's all I got.
That was quite enough....I definitely learned something from your post. Thanks
TRG
TRG
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in Computers and Gadgets
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
5 Replies · 273 views
b4pjoe
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
If you can't get into the router to reserve an IP address just don't use DHCP on the device that needs connected and assign it to a specific IP address in the network settings.
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HipKat
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
They are not. Your best bet is to set up a third-party router, attached to the Starlink for your server, that you can get into, like a Linksys, etc
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Foxbat
…it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
The Starlink V5 Install Kit I just got comes with the Mini Router. It is pretty limited in what it can do. For example, it can provide only one IP subnet at a time, no Guest Network, but it does support the pass-thru to a third-party Router. You can also split the Wi-Fi into separate 5 GHz & 2.4 GHz SSIDs to help some IoT devices that don't support 5 GHz bands to work.

The larger Starlink Router that still comes with the V4 Kit does support a Guest Network with separate IPv4 Subnet, but it's $120 from Starlink. And it still won't do DHCP Reservations.
harshness
If you can restrict the DHCP address space to assign addresses to one end of the subnet (i.e. x.x.x.50+), you can manually assign the IP address on pretty much any operating system. This is a default behavior on several popular routers. As the Router Mini only supports 235 devices, I expect that's already done.

Another option is to use a router that supports PoE to power the antenna. This article discusses that option (under PoE Power heading):

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Foxbat
Now that I've had the v5 kit with the Mini Router, it's not as bad as I first thought. Yes, no DHCP reservations, but you can set up multiple SSIDs that have separate IPv4 subnets, and like the big brother, you can select from 192.168.x.0/24 or 10.x.0.0/16 (where "x" is 1-4).

You can also split a subnet and have different SSIDs for the 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz channels to handle some IoT devices. I haven't discovered what subnet the 2nd NIC on the router assigns, I'm guessing it's the first subnet.
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
2 Replies · 43 views
dishstaller
Sorry for posting the wrong link. Just corrected it.
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Terrible tragedy. You would think that they would have safe guards in place that would prevent something like this from happening. I guess if you are going to ride in a passenger train it might be best to get a car near the rear.

2 Replies · 47 views
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Jimbo
Terrible tragedy. You would think that they would have safe guards in place that would prevent something like this from happening. I guess if you are going to ride in a passenger train it might be best to get a car near the rear.

They will have to look at the switching sections to determine WHY 2 trains were on the same track ... at the same time.
dishstaller
Thought this article might be of interest to some of you who might travel via train.