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imchrisf
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum

Noob needs help pointing dish when I travel

As stated, I am a Noob, so if I am in the wrong place please point me to a the right thread. I have been with Dish for a long time, but finally decided to get a second dish to take RVing and tailgating. I just got a Hopper, and I know that it is not as easy to point it as some. I made sure I got the same Dish they put on my house, I got the correct Node, and I used the Android app and your website to get the correct position at my house before I left for the weekend. Only took an hour or so of frustration to get it to link up. Not bad though. Once I got to the campsite though, there were trees where 119 was sitting and I tried everything for hours to get it to come up. Finally got it by using someone elses campsite with line of site while i watched the Game. I want to become a satelite pointing stud so I can get my stuff everywhere I travel. I know there are other sattelites i could have used I think. I only wanted to get ESPN. Where do I start to learn this stuff? I have android, iPhone, Tablets etc. of every kind. I havent purchased any apps yet, and I have heard of a device that points me the right way, but dont know anything about it. Help? I can't do 3 hours of set up for every night I camp. Thanks for everything.
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Brussam
Brussam
I figure if that is level with the horizon and has the right elevation then i am good right? So with my dish I cant get any more satelites than than 110, 119 and 129? Thanks again
Click to expand...
No.

You are correct in leveling the mast. A bubble level on the top of the mast works well for getting the mast vertical.

You need to get the Azimuth, Elevation, and Skew values from either the DPP 1000 installation Manual or Dishpointer.com. Set the Skew on the dish before putting the disk on the vertical mast. Set the Elevation and aim the dish in the direction of the Azimuth. The arm of the dish does not point to the satellite. The actual direction of the satellite beam is above and to the right of the arm. The attachment brackets on the back of the dish are better sighting for direction. Also, be aware that if you get the compass too close to the metal dish, the Deviation of the compass reading will climb. At the dish, the compass may have to be from 9 to 19 degrees more depending where in the country you are. A quick tip is add 20 degrees and start your swing fof the Azimuth to the left.

With the mast vertical, the Elevation and Skew set , and the dish in the direction of the satellite, you should be picking up some signal. A good meter like the Acutrac III or the First Strike FS-1 comes in handy here to fine tune the dish without having to be seeing the TV, a big advantage when setting up in trees.

Swing the Azimuth for best signal strength and then tweak the Elevation. In 6 years on the road, I have never had to tweak the Skew.

I always run the Switch Check after setting up the dish because the compass Deviation can be enough to put you on the wrong satellite, typically 129. If you get 129, 119, x then you are too far to the right.
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K
KarlR
Brussam said:
No.

You are correct in leveling the mast. A bubble level on the top of the mast works well for getting the mast vertical.

You need to get the Azimuth, Elevation, and Skew values from either the DPP 1000 installation Manual or Dishpointer.com. Set the Skew on the dish before putting the disk on the vertical mast. Set the Elevation and aim the dish in the direction of the Azimuth. The arm of the dish does not point to the satellite. The actual direction of the satellite beam is above and to the right of the arm. The attachment brackets on the back of the dish are better sighting for direction. Also, be aware that if you get the compass too close to the metal dish, the Deviation of the compass reading will climb. At the dish, the compass may have to be from 9 to 19 degrees more depending where in the country you are. A quick tip is add 20 degrees and start your swing fof the Azimuth to the left.

With the mast vertical, the Elevation and Skew set , and the dish in the direction of the satellite, you should be picking up some signal. A good meter like the Acutrac III or the First Strike FS-1 comes in handy here to fine tune the dish without having to be seeing the TV, a big advantage when setting up in trees.

Swing the Azimuth for best signal strength and then tweak the Elevation. In 6 years on the road, I have never had to tweak the Skew.

I always run the Switch Check after setting up the dish because the compass Deviation can be enough to put you on the wrong satellite, typically 129. If you get 129, 119, x then you are too far to the right.
Click to expand...

Hi Brussam, I'm also a full-time RV-er and have DiSH with Hopper in Living-room and a Vip211 in Bedroom. I've been doing OK schlepping the Hopper and a Monitor outside to point, but want to stop putting the Hopper and Monitor at risk of the Elements, so I bought the newest First Strike Pro HD. I haven't had any success getting a signal however and was wondering what settings you use. The last thing I tried yesterday was using the Hopper to get a lock and then connecting the FS and trying all DiSH Frequencies and 18V to see if I could get a reading or even a lock. But no joy. I'd really appreciate your advise. Thanks! Karl
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Brussam
Brussam
There is a download from the First Strike website that has the Dish satellites. I stripped out the other satellites and have just the Dish satellites. One parameter important for a DPP 1000.2 is the 22KHz signal.
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(((Garyd)))
(((Garyd)))
KarlR said:
Hi Brussam, I'm also a full-time RV-er and have DiSH with Hopper in Living-room and a Vip211 in Bedroom. I've been doing OK schlepping the Hopper and a Monitor outside to point, but want to stop putting the Hopper and Monitor at risk of the Elements, so I bought the newest First Strike Pro HD. I haven't had any success getting a signal however and was wondering what settings you use. The last thing I tried yesterday was using the Hopper to get a lock and then connecting the FS and trying all DiSH Frequencies and 18V to see if I could get a reading or even a lock. But no joy. I'd really appreciate your advise. Thanks! Karl
Click to expand...

Simple trick been a satellite dealer since 1982, you're making a simple job very hard, use simple tools a level once you have a good signal first use the bubble level that goes into the pipe, make sure it exactly in the middle, now once you do find the signal get a straight piece of two by two, put a nail on one end use that to hang over the dishes edge lay a level on it, shim the level up with some wood so the level laying on it is dead level, stand behind the dish with a compass, aim at the middle of the feed, take a reading. NOW THE NEXT TIME YOU MOVE AROUND UNLESS ITS LIKE 300 MILES ALL YOU NEED IS TO RE-BUBBLE THE PIPE, ALL THE REST IS move the dish to line up with the compass reading, and you should be getting a weak signal and only need a touch up. GOOD LUCK also have a beer first, can't hurt
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Brussam
Brussam
I guess you never traveled very far in 36 years. Skew changes as you move.
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(((Garyd)))
(((Garyd)))
Brussam said:
I guess you never traveled very far in 36 years. Skew changes as you move.
Click to expand...
Of course it does, how far do you drive in one day? You can slowly change that, your offset is very important!!!!! Try doing a 12 foot dish with C-and Ku on it, plus a circular feed, with a Horzion motor and track it dead on from one horizon to the other, then you will know how important it is, the bigger the dish the more it becomes only a hair off to make a huge different
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K
KarlR
Brussam said:
There is a download from the First Strike website that has the Dish satellites. I stripped out the other satellites and have just the Dish satellites. One parameter important for a DPP 1000.2 is the 22KHz signal.
Click to expand...
Thanks Brussam!
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K
KarlR
Garyd said:
Simple trick been a satellite dealer since 1982, you're making a simple job very hard, use simple tools a level once you have a good signal first use the bubble level that goes into the pipe, make sure it exactly in the middle, now once you do find the signal get a straight piece of two by two, put a nail on one end use that to hang over the dishes edge lay a level on it, shim the level up with some wood so the level laying on it is dead level, stand behind the dish with a compass, aim at the middle of the feed, take a reading. NOW THE NEXT TIME YOU MOVE AROUND UNLESS ITS LIKE 300 MILES ALL YOU NEED IS TO RE-BUBBLE THE PIPE, ALL THE REST IS move the dish to line up with the compass reading, and you should be getting a weak signal and only need a touch up. GOOD LUCK also have a beer first, can't hurt
Click to expand...
Thanks!
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dishstaller
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club

TVs are really getting big these days

Was raining yesterday so I went to Sams up in Dothan to stock up on some things. Haven't been there in quite a while. I was amazed at how large most of the TVs were. When I walked in they had a 100 in Vizio (I think it was Vizio) that was marked down to something like $1,200. The first rows of TVs were all in the 80 in + sizes. The next couple of rows had the "smaller" models....those 75 and under. I was amazed at how small the 75s looked when lined up with the larger screens.
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Foxbat
Foxbat
I'm at a limit for TV sizes at this time. My Father-in-Law crafted a custom entertainment center for our family room and we were restricted from going too big based on the side cabinets and central bridge fitting in the width of the room. It turns out to be where a 55" screen with bezels fits but no 65" bezel-less screen can fit. I think there was a brief period where 58" screens where a thing, but no more.

So, no huge screens for the Foxbat's…
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TRG
TRG
Foxbat said:
I'm at a limit for TV sizes at this time. My Father-in-Law crafted a custom entertainment center for our family room and we were restricted from going too big based on the side cabinets and central bridge fitting in the width of the room. It turns out to be where a 55" screen with bezels fits but no 65" bezel-less screen can fit. I think there was a brief period where 58" screens where a thing, but no more.

So, no huge screens for the Foxbat's…
Click to expand...

55" is plenty big.
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dishstaller
dishstaller
TRG said:
55" is plenty big.
Click to expand...
And to think....I was SO proud of myself when I bought a 27 in TV in the late 80s. Everyone just had a 25 in so I was really in high cotton.
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Jimbo
Jimbo
dishstaller said:
And to think....I was SO proud of myself when I bought a 27 in TV in the late 80s. Everyone just had a 25 in so I was really in high cotton.
Click to expand...
I remember buying my 1st Sony .... a whopping Big 27" CRT XBR .... $1200. :)
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Bobby
Bobby
I bought my 50" Mitsubishi rear projection in 1981!
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osu1991
osu1991
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in TV Shows

Percy Jackson - Disney+


View: https://youtu.be/nK0HytQwrw8


Coming December 20, 2023
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Foxbat
Foxbat
Still enjoying the show.
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osu1991
osu1991
Ive got to find time to get back to it. Watched the first episode and been too busy to squeeze it into out watch schedule.
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osu1991
osu1991
Foxbat
Foxbat
The latest trailer for Season 3 starting November 20th just came out:
​
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Ramy
Ramy
Supporting Founder
Last reply · posted in The Sports Section

2026-27 NCAA College Football

Really excited for this season with Kentucky having a new coach and some really exciting recruits. Probably won't last long, but here's hoping this season is great.
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Y
Yespage
Parity is growing in College Football. Making it even harder to tell who is better than each other.
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rvvaquero
rvvaquero
Yespage said:
Parity is growing in College Football. Making it even harder to tell who is better than each other.
Click to expand...
I agree to a point. The transfer policy is creating parity, but only for the top 20-25 teams. The other 110+ teams in the FBS are just breeding grounds for the bigger schools which have more money and more recruiting appeal.

If a smaller school recruits, trains, and matures a quality player, they can't keep them past their sophomore year because the bigger schools snatch them up. Example: LSU didn't cultivate Sam Leavitt, they just harvested him from other schools. LSU is a top contender, in large part because of Leavitt. Michigan State and Arizona State.................are not. If either of those schools had been able to retain his services, who knows where they would be now.
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osu1991
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Scott Greczkowski
Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club

Song Name Game Part 3!

Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
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sdfntx
sdfntx
Looking for the Next Best Thing - Warren Zevon
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long_time_Dish
long_time_Dish
Werewolves Of London - Warren Zevon
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gms49ers
gms49ers
The Fountain of Lamneth - Rush
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long_time_Dish
long_time_Dish
Fountain Of Sorrow - James Browne
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gms49ers
gms49ers
Funk #49 - James Gang
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osu1991
osu1991
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club

USA Healthcare Costs are Ridiculous

:mad::mad::mad::mad:

Pissed off at the crappy healthcare costs

My health Insurance renewal for 2027 just came in. Going from $827 a month to $1,187 a month. Deductible going up a $1k to $9,350. Max out of pocket also going up $1k to $11,000. Doctor co-pay of $40. Urgent Care co-pay $50. ER 50% coinsurance after deductible. That's all in network. Out of network is double, should it be needed.

Have to think about this. I'm really tempted to just go without now. I only go to the doctor once or twice a year. I pay out of pocket for Tirzepitide and can do without the Rosuvastatin (crestor) now. Really tired of spending over $10k a year and getting nothing out of it.

After years with Blue Cross I switched last year to Ambetter as my Blue Cross premium was going from $1200 to $1800 for a Silver plan and the Bronze plan was still going to be $1300 at BCBS. Ambetter was $827 for the same coverage with a Bronze plan. Didn't think it would jump this much so soon.

I'm guessing a Silver plan is probably over $2,000 a month for 2027.
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osu1991
osu1991
Such a scam. Healthcare.gov shows me cheaper individual plans available for 2027 from ambetter that ambetter doesn't show on their website. Looked it up. I've spent $68,000 in premiums the last 5 years and got nothing out of it except a few doctors visits and labs. 😡
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dishstaller
dishstaller
osu1991 said:
I've spent $68,000 in premiums the last 5 years
Click to expand...
That's why I cancelled ours and just started saving the money. We're about to do the same thing with our home insurance.....not cancel it outright but do away with the portion which covers wind damage. We're paying over $5k right now and that is AFTER I dumbed things down...and it keeps going up. Got a couple trees I want to have taken down first before I do that however. After we do that, it will knock about $3k off our annual premium.
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b4pjoe
b4pjoe
My wife and I use the same Medicare Advantage plan from United Healthcare. (Yes I have heard the horror stories about Medicare Advantage plans but we have used it for the last 5 years). We are both pretty healthy so it works for us. It costs $0.00 per month for both of us and it pays part of our Medicare part B premium. Next year it will be paying $170 per month of the $220 monthly part B premium for both of us. We also each get $90 per quarter to use on OTC products. $0.00 copay for Dr. visits and $55 copay for specialists. Includes dental and hearing coverage. Never have had an issue with it although I don't really use mine other than for the dental, Part B payments and the OTC benefit as I am a veteran and use the VA for all of my medical needs. I just had a kidney that had a cancer mass removed last month and they allowed me to use a non VA surgeon at a non VA hospital through the VA Community Care program. For all of the doctors visits, exams, tests, surgery, hospital stay, meds etc…was around $60,000 and the the VA paid for it entirely. I did have to pay $16 for the Oxycodone pain pills when I left the hospital that I got from my local CVS instead of waiting for a week for the VA to ship them to me from the VA pharmacy.
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dishstaller
dishstaller
b4pjoe said:
$0.00 copay for Dr. visits
Click to expand...
And THAT is one of the big issues causing a lot of the problems. If the minimum copay for Dr. visits was at least $100 then a LOT of folks would opt out of those visits. If it cost the individual nothing then why should they care. All of my older family members are constantly going to doctor visits.....to them it is an adventure.....an outing that allows them a reason to go out to eat at a restaurant. IF they had to pay one cent out of their own pockets a lot of that crap would stop asap.

Sorry...rant off.
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meStevo
meStevo
dishstaller said:
And THAT is one of the big issues causing a lot of the problems. If the minimum copay for Dr. visits was at least $100 then a LOT of folks would opt out of those visits. If it cost the individual nothing then why should they care. All of my older family members are constantly going to doctor visits.....to them it is an adventure.....an outing that allows them a reason to go out to eat at a restaurant. IF they had to pay one cent out of their own pockets a lot of that crap would stop asap.

Sorry...rant off.
Click to expand...

You're not wrong that some people treat free visits like a social outing. But it has to be a balance. Put a $100 barrier on a doctor visit and people don't just skip the pointless ones, they skip the important ones too. Then the stuff that would've been a cheap catch at a checkup shows up later in the ER, sicker and way more expensive. The shift we need is from sick care to actual healthcare.
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dishstaller
dishstaller
meStevo said:
But it has to be a balance.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, humans tend to suck at finding a balance in just about anything.

reubenray said:
They go to the Doctor for everything.
Click to expand...
I see a LOT of that. And yes...they DO go to the doctor for EVERYTHING.

I was sick a couple months ago, either light flu or cold. First thing my Mom asked me when I told her was "You need to go to the doctor". I said WHY......I know what to do....it'll last a few days and I'll be fine.

The biggest problem with paying nothing out of pocket is that people quickly don't want to pay a penny for anything. Had an older customer in the store the other day. He mentioned that he had just come from CVS and I guess he wanted to rant. He said he went to pick up his prescription and "they changed my plan and wanted $4, they used to be free...I told them to stick them somewhere and walked out". BTW, he was in the store buying a new remote. So he HAD money for a remote but not $4 for this medicine that somebody somewhere thought he needed.
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Jimbo
Jimbo
dishstaller said:
Unfortunately, humans tend to suck at finding a balance in just about anything.


I see a LOT of that. And yes...they DO go to the doctor for EVERYTHING.

I was sick a couple months ago, either light flu or cold. First thing my Mom asked me when I told her was "You need to go to the doctor". I said WHY......I know what to do....it'll last a few days and I'll be fine.

The biggest problem with paying nothing out of pocket is that people quickly don't want to pay a penny for anything. Had an older customer in the store the other day. He mentioned that he had just come from CVS and I guess he wanted to rant. He said he went to pick up his prescription and "they changed my plan and wanted $4, they used to be free...I told them to stick them somewhere and walked out". BTW, he was in the store buying a new remote. So he HAD money for a remote but not $4 for this medicine that somebody somewhere thought he needed.
Click to expand...
My prescription before Medicare took over was $30 for 90 days, Medicare took over, now it was $375 last January and $150ish after that 90 days worth.
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harshness
harshness
dishstaller said:
not cancel it outright but do away with the portion which covers wind damage.
Click to expand...
Other than fire, what other kinds of damage do you guys get down there?
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harshness
harshness
Jimbo said:
My prescription before Medicare took over was $30 for 90 days, Medicare took over, now it was $375 last January and $150ish after that 90 days worth.
Click to expand...
My Ozempic went from almost $400 every four weeks to $11 with a $0 Part D plan. That plan will be $5.63/month in 2027.

Make sure you've shopped around this open enrollment season.
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dishstaller
dishstaller
harshness said:
Other than fire, what other kinds of damage do you guys get down there?
Click to expand...
Not much else. Fire is the only thing I really worry about. I honestly didn't know I could remove wind coverage until someone told that they had....dropped their annual rate from $6,500 to $1,800. I'm currently paying $5,160.
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navychop
navychop
dishstaller said:
So he HAD money for a remote but not $4 for this medicine that somebody somewhere thought he needed.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a self correcting situation.
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Jimbo
Jimbo
dishstaller said:
Not much else. Fire is the only thing I really worry about. I honestly didn't know I could remove wind coverage until someone told that they had....dropped their annual rate from $6,500 to $1,800. I'm currently paying $5,160.
Click to expand...
Does the Wind portion cover Hurricanes ?
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TWiT Tech Podcast Network
· posted in TWiT Tech Podcast Network

Home Theater Geeks 556

Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Vc6LXyvmmE


Direct YouTube Link - Home Theater Geeks 556
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
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Bobby
Bobby
Supporting Founder Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum

Dish 4K Event Listings (No Discussion)

This is a thread that will keep you apprised of 4K events that will be showing on Dish channel 540. Keep looking here for information.

As of today, 9-27-17, there are no scheduled events posted for the next 2 weeks. That is subject to change on a daily basis.
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Bobby
Bobby
MLB, Brewers at Rays, Monday 10-26, 5PM PDT, Channel 148-01.
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Bobby
Bobby
MLB, Brewers at Rays, Tuesday 10-27, 5PM PDT, Channel 148-01.
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Bobby
Bobby
CFB, Florida vs Georgia, Saturday 10-31, 12:30PM PDT, Channel 148-03.
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Bobby
Bobby
CFB, Wisconsin at Iowa, Saturday 10-31, 9AM PDT, Channel 148-01.
CFB, Arizona St at BYU, Saturday 10-31, 12:30PM PDT, Channel 148-01.
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Bobby
Bobby
CFB, Alabama at LSU, Saturday 11-7, 12:30PM PST, Channel 148-03.
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WildBill
WildBill
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum

Problem with Amazon Prime Video

I've been having intermittent problems with Amazon Prime video programs loading using the H3 guide listing. I can get to the program I want to watch, but when I try to view it, it starts to load and then stalls. Eventually, a screen pops up saying "something went wrong, try again later". I've tried rebooting the hopper without success. Sometimes switching the HDMI input on my LG TV works, but not always. I don't have this problem on my phone or computer, so it is not a network or router issue.

I did a quick google search and found that this is a common problem associated with overloading or corruption of the data cache in the Amazon app and the solution is to clear the cache. Easy to do on a computer or phone, but I don't know how to do this on the H3. If anyone a solution or suggestion, I'd appreciate some help. Thanks.
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R
reubenray
I gave up trying to watch Prime through my H3 a long time ago.
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mheisen
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum

Hopper 3 with Hopper plus internet connection problems

Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?
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Almighty1
Almighty1
mheisen said:
Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?
Click to expand...
I have a DISH Hopper 3 (Software H713) with Hopper Plus (Software P15403). I have not tried streaming services but I primarily watch TVB Jadeworld international package which is only available by streaming and when I have an issue, I usually have to go to a non-streaming satellite channel first before the streaming channels will work again. What software versions do you have and what is the error message if any are showing on your screen? or is that Dish downloading logo just stuck and never finishes?
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mheisen
Almighty1 said:
I have a DISH Hopper 3 (Software H713) with Hopper Plus (Software P15403). I have not tried streaming services but I primarily watch TVB Jadeworld international package which is only available by streaming and when I have an issue, I usually have to go to a non-streaming satellite channel first before the streaming channels will work again. What software versions do you have and what is the error message if any are showing on your screen? or is that Dish downloading logo just stuck and never finishes?
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I'm on H713 on the Hopper and P15403 on the Hopper Plus. It shows internet connection issues and doesn't finish loading the various services. I see the "loading circle going around. Sometimes I get a message saying that the service is having trouble loading my content and to check the internet connection.
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Almighty1
Almighty1
mheisen said:
I'm on H713 on the Hopper and P15403 on the Hopper Plus. It shows internet connection issues and doesn't finish loading the various services. I see the "loading circle going around. Sometimes I get a message saying that the service is having trouble loading my content and to check the internet connection.
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Did it ever work correctly before? Hard to say what the problem is. Usually for streaming, it will show the Dish logo with lines sweeping down to show downloading, never seen the circle issue. Did you try a manual reboot, red button reset, power cord unplug/replug to see if it makes a difference.
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slow_poke_pete
Almighty1 said:
Did it ever work correctly before? Hard to say what the problem is. Usually for streaming, it will show the Dish logo with lines sweeping down to show downloading, never seen the circle issue. Did you try a manual reboot, red button reset, power cord unplug/replug to see if it makes a difference.
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Might be worth just to ditch the hopper plus. No issues here on h713
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slow_poke_pete
mheisen said:
Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?
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Buy a roku and dump the hopper plus you'll be better off. If you have a smart tv you don't need either one. No hopper plus here and no issues!!!
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Almighty1
Almighty1
slow_poke_pete said:
Might be worth just to ditch the hopper plus. No issues here on h713
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I have a Hopper Plus and no issues either. charlesrshell has both a Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and one without, he doesn't have the same issue. Before blaming it on the Hopper Plus, he should see if the problem still exists without the Hopper Plus connected as it could be the Internet connection itself or some setting in the router itself. There is someone in another thread who has EHD issues on the Hopper 3 only setup but does not have the EHD issues on the Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and he has already tried swapping the EHD and it did not make a difference so like the saying, YMMV.
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Almighty1
slow_poke_pete said:
Buy a roku and dump the hopper plus you'll be better off. If you have a smart tv you don't need either one. No hopper plus here and no issues!!!
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The Roku costs $$$, Hopper Plus is free. That may not be the only costs as it depends if the TV in question still has available HDMI ports and if not, it will require a HDMI switch and HDMI cable which adds more to the cost.

I have a LG 3D OLED Smart TV and I still need either of them because it does not have Android TV built in. Add a Hopper Plus and see if you actually have issues or not as until you actually tried it, it means nothing.
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jsmit86
jsmit86
If the OP has a router and a managed switch, that could be the problem.
I have a Hopper 3 and 5 Joey 4s. I recently updated my Router, Switch and access points with Ubiquiti UniFi gear. I had an issue where the switch interpreted the communication between the hopper internet connection and one of the Joeys as a data loop. I had to change some settings in the switch to re-enable that port. Your router could possibly be doing the same thing blocking the connection.

If your router has a malware connection setting, try disabling it temporarily, and see if the internet comes back. Contact your ISP and see if there is a block happening at the router or switch level, or via the ISP's threat protection.
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jsmit86 said:
If the OP has a router and a managed switch, that could be the problem.
I have a Hopper 3 and 5 Joey 4s. I recently updated my Router, Switch and access points with Ubiquiti UniFi gear. I had an issue where the switch interpreted the communication between the hopper internet connection and one of the Joeys as a data loop. I had to change some settings in the switch to re-enable that port. Your router could possibly be doing the same thing blocking the connection.

If your router has a malware connection setting, try disabling it temporarily, and see if the internet comes back. Contact your ISP and see if there is a block happening at the router or switch level, or via the ISP's threat protection.
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Can you share what settings you had to change?

Required Inbound & Outbound Network Ports
The standard ports designated for DISH Hopper configurations include:
    • TCP Port 80 – HTTP communication
    • TCP Port 443 – HTTPS secure communication
    • TCP Port 5678 – Neighbor Discovery / Device Sync
    • UDP Port 80 – Alternative streaming/network data
    • UDP Port 443 – Alternative secure media streams
    • UDP Port 5678 – Remote pairing and network discovery
Critical Network & Security Considerations
    • UPnP (Universal Plug and Play): Enabling UPnP on your router is the easiest way to allow the Hopper to automatically handle its own port maps.
    Internal Communication (MoCA & Local LAN): The Hopper Plus and Joeys communicate internally over your local home network using router's default internal traffic policies. Local firewall software or strict internal VLAN isolation can block the Hopper 3 from seeing the Hopper Plus or Joey extensions.

    The other thing is that these are streaming channels which was why I asked if they have worked correctly even without the Hopper Plus as checking the post history of the OP, it appears that the Hopper Plus was added around 1/2 a year ago and from looking at my own Internet settings portion, all the Hopper 3 does is really measure signal strenth for WiFi and probably just check ping times to show it is connected or not to the internet, it does not check the actual speed or latency. Since the OP has a Hopper Plus, OP can always install the Speedtest app for diagnostics and then take a photo of the results and post it here. Before 2017, I used tȯhave 6Mbps/768Kbps ADSL and even though the Hopper 1 and Hopper 3 also showed internet connectivity is okay, everytime my Ring Doorbell is uploading, it would knock the entire internet connection off-line as the upload pipe would be 100% filled by the Ring Door bell uploading the video because the ACKnowledgement packets would not have priority being sent back in time which was fixed with QoS traffic shaping but that still does not mean streaming will work as it requires at least 25Mbps minimum or more if there are other devices on the same connection sharing the bandwidth.


    ​
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jsmit86
jsmit86
Almighty1 said:
Can you share what settings you had to change?

Required Inbound & Outbound Network Ports
The standard ports designated for DISH Hopper configurations include:
    • TCP Port 80 – HTTP communication
    • TCP Port 443 – HTTPS secure communication
    • TCP Port 5678 – Neighbor Discovery / Device Sync
    • UDP Port 80 – Alternative streaming/network data
    • UDP Port 443 – Alternative secure media streams
    • UDP Port 5678 – Remote pairing and network discovery
Critical Network & Security Considerations
    • UPnP (Universal Plug and Play): Enabling UPnP on your router is the easiest way to allow the Hopper to automatically handle its own port maps.
    • Internal Communication (MoCA & Local LAN): The Hopper Plus and Joeys communicate internally over your local home network using router's default internal traffic policies. Local firewall software or strict internal VLAN isolation can block the Hopper 3 from seeing the Hopper Plus or Joey extensions.The other thing is that these are streaming channels which was why I asked if they have worked correctly even without the Hopper Plus as checking the post history of the OP, it appears that the Hopper Plus was added around 1/2 a year ago and from looking at my own Internet settings portion, all the Hopper 3 does is really measure signal strenth for WiFi and probably just check ping times to show it is connected or not to the internet, it does not check the actual speed or latency. Since the OP has a Hopper Plus, OP can always install the Speedtest app for diagnostics and then take a photo of the results and post it here. Before 2017, I used tȯhave 6Mbps/768Kbps ADSL and even though the Hopper 1 and Hopper 3 also showed internet connectivity is okay, everytime my Ring Doorbell is uploading, it would knock the entire internet connection off-line as the upload pipe would be 100% filled by the Ring Door bell uploading the video because the ACKnowledgement packets would not have priority being sent back in time which was fixed with QoS traffic shaping but that still does not mean streaming will work as it requires at least 25Mbps minimum or more if there are other devices on the same connection sharing the bandwidth.
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This was for port settings for the switch, not the router.

Originally was recommended to use EDGE vs. Infrastructure, but had to change that back to Infrastructure.

Had to leave STP (Spanning tree protocol) ON, but disable BPDU guard, and also had to disable Non-STP loop protection.

The previous settings were flagging normal dish system packets as a data loop, and fully blocked that port on the UniFI Pro Max 16 POE switch.

These were specific to my managed switch, and may not apply to the OP's issue.
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Peter Parker
Peter Parker
Supporting Founder Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum

DISH Hopper 3 Software Version 713 Is Out

No idea what improvements might be involved.
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rvvaquero
rvvaquero
That's a lot of information to ingest. However, I don't have the Hopper Plus and my 54 remote is doing crazy things to the Hopper 3. Several times each evening when I press the skip forward button several times to advance through a commercial, it switches the receiver either onto live TV or into suspension. Other buttons will also cause this randomly, I haven't established any patterns I can describe. I use "recall" to go back to my recorded program in progress.

Needless to say, something in the newer Hopper 3 softwares has caused the remote functioning to ......................malfunction. Evidently, it applies to third party remotes as well as DISH's own remotes.
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GRB1959
GRB1959
rvvaquero said:
That's a lot of information to ingest. However, I don't have the Hopper Plus and my 54 remote is doing crazy things to the Hopper 3. Several times each evening when I press the skip forward button several times to advance through a commercial, it switches the receiver either onto live TV or into suspension. Other buttons will also cause this randomly, I haven't established any patterns I can describe. I use "recall" to go back to my recorded program in progress.

Needless to say, something in the newer Hopper 3 softwares has caused the remote functioning to ......................malfunction. Evidently, it applies to third party remotes as well as DISH's own remotes.
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This is exactly the same issue I was having as I had the Hopper 3 and 54 remote without the Hopper Plus and the symptoms were virtually identical to yours.
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ERSanders
ERSanders
We have had a corolary problem in this and the prior s/w. Using several different 40.0 remotes (yeah, we're old), when one pauses a live or recorded show it becomes a crap shoot whether it will step foreward the 30" as requested, jump to the end, or restart the episode. Tried the famous 60" reboot to no avail and have decided to live with it vs. a receiver swap risk.
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tpribors
I think there's a change to the "skip forward 30 seconds". With CBS that does not have auto-skip, if you stack up a bunch of 30 second forwards it seems to stop when the kangaroo signaling the end of the commercial break appears.
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long_time_Dish
long_time_Dish
Also posted this in the 3rd party remote thread.

My Hopper 3 updated itself to H713 last week and the IR issue is worse now. On H711, I could be on an SD channel for several hours and the IR side of my H3 would still be responsive without my having to tap the View button on my Pronto Pro every 15 minutes. Now, if I stay even on an SD channel without tapping the View button at least once an hour, it becomes unresponsive to my Pronto Pro without tapping the View button at least 5-20 times, just like on the HD and 4K channels. So, H713 actually made the issue worse. :(

brittanygarden
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