Noob needs help pointing dish when I travel

imchrisf

Member
Original poster
Sep 4, 2012
5
0
Boise, Idaho
As stated, I am a Noob, so if I am in the wrong place please point me to a the right thread. I have been with Dish for a long time, but finally decided to get a second dish to take RVing and tailgating. I just got a Hopper, and I know that it is not as easy to point it as some. I made sure I got the same Dish they put on my house, I got the correct Node, and I used the Android app and your website to get the correct position at my house before I left for the weekend. Only took an hour or so of frustration to get it to link up. Not bad though. Once I got to the campsite though, there were trees where 119 was sitting and I tried everything for hours to get it to come up. Finally got it by using someone elses campsite with line of site while i watched the Game. I want to become a satelite pointing stud so I can get my stuff everywhere I travel. I know there are other sattelites i could have used I think. I only wanted to get ESPN. Where do I start to learn this stuff? I have android, iPhone, Tablets etc. of every kind. I havent purchased any apps yet, and I have heard of a device that points me the right way, but dont know anything about it. Help? I can't do 3 hours of set up for every night I camp. Thanks for everything.
 
Something to consider would be to get an EA lnb setup for your dish so pointing to the southeast becomes an option if LOS is not there to the west. A good compass and a level and good technique should have you setting up in less than 30 minutes easy. Practice may be in order because once you do it a few times, it gets damn easy.

To learn, search here and on the net for aiming instructions and read read read. Know your dish elevation requirement for your location and the aiming azimuth and skew. Use dishpointer.com to figure that out and maybe do initial sight surveys. Get your mounting pole perfectly plumb and the sats should be very close to where you are pointing.
 
As stated, I am a Noob, so if I am in the wrong place please point me to a the right thread. I have been with Dish for a long time, but finally decided to get a second dish to take RVing and tailgating. I just got a Hopper, and I know that it is not as easy to point it as some. I made sure I got the same Dish they put on my house, I got the correct Node, and I used the Android app and your website to get the correct position at my house before I left for the weekend. Only took an hour or so of frustration to get it to link up. Not bad though. Once I got to the campsite though, there were trees where 119 was sitting and I tried everything for hours to get it to come up. Finally got it by using someone elses campsite with line of site while i watched the Game. I want to become a satelite pointing stud so I can get my stuff everywhere I travel.
You mean you want to become a Dish Whisperer?

First, what are you taking camping -- the Hopper? Another Dish receiver?

Yeah, those dang trees . . . if you're packing a Hopper, then either buy a

- 1000.2 dish with a Western Arc (sats 110, 119, and 129) LNBs & also buy the Eastern Arc "twin" (sats 61.5 and 72.7) LNBs for it

or

- 1000.4 dish with an Eastern Arc (sats 61.5, 72.7, and 77) LNBs & also buy (probably on eBay) the Western Arc LNBs.

That's about $120 - 150 so far.

Next, buy a GOOD tripod -- http://www.tv4rv.com

Now you're up to about $300.

Finally, buy a GOOD sat meter. I recommend the Accutrac III+ (try eBay).

Your current expense is now $450.

Using the dish, tripod, and meter, you now are equipped to locate Dish sats. However, it takes patience and practice. Start in your back yard.

OR . . .

For about $50 more, you could purchase a Dish Tailgater with a 211k receiver which will AUTOMATICALLY acquire a Western Arc sat (assuming no trees are in the way).
 
I am taking my Hopper with me. I like the idea of having all my DVR stuff with me. I already bought a tripod (that sucks) it has no built in level so i just level from the top pipe. I also already have a new dish just like what they put on my house, I think it is a 1000.2 since i have to point to 119. Isnt the important part to level the arm that comes out from the dish that has the ends on it? I figure if that is level with the horizon and has the right elevation then i am good right? So with my dish I cant get any more satelites than than 110, 119 and 129? Thanks again
 
You could get an EA lnb assembly for the 1000.2 dish to cover yourself for line of sight issues. If you are used to pointing dishes it isn't too hard. Once the tripod mast is level, I'd cover the outside lnb's and point for 119 then adjust to get 110 and 129 when using the WA lnb assembly and 72 for EA and adjust for 61.5 (and 77 is that sat is necessary).
 
I am taking my Hopper with me. I like the idea of having all my DVR stuff with me. I already bought a tripod (that sucks) it has no built in level so i just level from the top pipe. I also already have a new dish just like what they put on my house, I think it is a 1000.2 since i have to point to 119.
It points to 110, 119 and 129.
Isnt the important part to level the arm that comes out from the dish that has the ends on it? I figure if that is level with the horizon and has the right elevation then i am good right?
NO! Use the elevation scale on the mount part of the dish assembly to set the elevation. That is the only adjustment to be made for this parameter. Set the skew on the back of the dish for your location. Aim to the direction (azimuth) given by dishpointer.com on your compass. Make small adjustments to azimuth over a couple degrees, slowly, until you lock on the signal.
So with my dish I cant get any more satelites than than 110, 119 and 129? Thanks again

Correct, your dish is engineered to get only 110, 119 and 129 at the same time.

Start doing some google searches to find dish aiming documentation for your dish. They are out there and should be of great help. I get the feeling you need all the little details filled in and this would be a good start to understanding what needs to be done.
 
I figure if that is level with the horizon and has the right elevation then i am good right? So with my dish I cant get any more satelites than than 110, 119 and 129? Thanks again
No.

You are correct in leveling the mast. A bubble level on the top of the mast works well for getting the mast vertical.

You need to get the Azimuth, Elevation, and Skew values from either the DPP 1000 installation Manual or Dishpointer.com. Set the Skew on the dish before putting the disk on the vertical mast. Set the Elevation and aim the dish in the direction of the Azimuth. The arm of the dish does not point to the satellite. The actual direction of the satellite beam is above and to the right of the arm. The attachment brackets on the back of the dish are better sighting for direction. Also, be aware that if you get the compass too close to the metal dish, the Deviation of the compass reading will climb. At the dish, the compass may have to be from 9 to 19 degrees more depending where in the country you are. A quick tip is add 20 degrees and start your swing fof the Azimuth to the left.

With the mast vertical, the Elevation and Skew set , and the dish in the direction of the satellite, you should be picking up some signal. A good meter like the Acutrac III or the First Strike FS-1 comes in handy here to fine tune the dish without having to be seeing the TV, a big advantage when setting up in trees.

Swing the Azimuth for best signal strength and then tweak the Elevation. In 6 years on the road, I have never had to tweak the Skew.

I always run the Switch Check after setting up the dish because the compass Deviation can be enough to put you on the wrong satellite, typically 129. If you get 129, 119, x then you are too far to the right.
 
Also, be aware that if you get the compass too close to the metal dish, the Deviation of the compass reading will climb. At the dish, the compass may have to be from 9 to 19 degrees more depending where in the country you are. A quick tip is add 20 degrees and start your swing fof the Azimuth to the left.

If you use dishpointer.com, the deviation is accounted for in the "Azimuth (magn.):" number. IMHO, 20 degrees is too much to begin with. Be precise in setting up and aim for the satellite, then sweep a few degrees left/right for the signal.

Also, I find it easier to sight back to the dish from a distance along the reverse bearing for the azimuth, mark that spot then aim over it with the dish. This removes any influence from the equipment on the compass.
 
If you use dishpointer.com, the deviation is accounted for in the "Azimuth (magn.):
Wrong. There is different Deviation to the smartphone than to a compass near the dish.

There is no good way to align the smartphone to the dish.

I have measured 25 degree Deviation in Oelwein, IA, 20 degrees in Madison, PA, 54 degree in Champion, MI, 25 degree in Eagle River, WI . 30 degrees in Fairmont, MN, 29 degrees and it can go negative at -17 in Menoken, ND. These were all measured via a magnetic compass. 20 degrees isn't too much.

The Variation is included in the dishpointer.com magnetic reading. There is no way for dishpointer.com to sense the effects of the metal dish and it relationship of the magnetic lines of force of the planet on a compass. That is what Deviation is.

True North (related to the map North) +
Variation (the offset of the Magnetic North from the map North) =
Magnetic North +
Deviation (the effects of magnet/metal objects near the compass) =
Compass North.
 
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Actually it is right. If you (the compass) are under the influence of the dish or something on your person or immediate environment that is making the compass error, you need to account for it. However you do it is fine. You put a +/-20 degrees on it and make it work. You can also remove yourself from the dish and make it work too. It all depends upon your immediate environment. But, magnetic declination is well known and predictable for where you are and that is what dishpointer gives you.

Are you running a Tesla coil when you set up too?:D
 
Are you running a Tesla coil when you set up too?
Nope. I use a tool called Align-A-Site that has a built-in compass and levels for the Elevation and the Skew adjustments. It attaches to the dish so it has a fixed relationship to the dish. There is a periscope that has the beam offset built-in that gives a view of where the signal beam is really going. Great for shooting through trees.

Since the compass is attached close to the dish, it is affected by the Deviation effects of the dish. Because the compass is fixed to the dish, the affects are standardized by each location I setup which is why I have a table of Deviations. I had hoped to make a chart of the deviations but it would have to be set against the Lat-Lon of the locations which doesn't translate well against the setup table for the DPP dish.

Another benefit to the fixed attached compass, if I should hit the wrong satellite, it is a lot easier to set the 9/10 degree change on the compass ring then to try and visualize the same change in space.

Yes, the calculated "magnetic declination is well known and predictable" but there isn't much available in the world to determine magnetic directions without being subject to the effects of nearby metal objects or other magnetic material.

Yes you can stand back from the dish and look through the smartphone and have the Deviation near negligible but that view would have nothing to do with what the dish view is.

A Tesla coil is for transmitting energy, not receiving it. Not much use to me. Do you use one?
 
A Tesla coil is for transmitting energy, not receiving it. Not much use to me. Do you use one?

Actually, a Tesla coil will receive energy too. But if you do use these at the site, don't worry about them causing too much issues with your magnetic compass. The high frequency is damped by the mass of the compass needle so the resulting deviation would be negligible.

Anyway, use good techniques and account for magnetic field distortions (ultra-low frequency) and you can aim a dish like a pro! :)
 
No.

You are correct in leveling the mast. A bubble level on the top of the mast works well for getting the mast vertical.

You need to get the Azimuth, Elevation, and Skew values from either the DPP 1000 installation Manual or Dishpointer.com. Set the Skew on the dish before putting the disk on the vertical mast. Set the Elevation and aim the dish in the direction of the Azimuth. The arm of the dish does not point to the satellite. The actual direction of the satellite beam is above and to the right of the arm. The attachment brackets on the back of the dish are better sighting for direction. Also, be aware that if you get the compass too close to the metal dish, the Deviation of the compass reading will climb. At the dish, the compass may have to be from 9 to 19 degrees more depending where in the country you are. A quick tip is add 20 degrees and start your swing fof the Azimuth to the left.

With the mast vertical, the Elevation and Skew set , and the dish in the direction of the satellite, you should be picking up some signal. A good meter like the Acutrac III or the First Strike FS-1 comes in handy here to fine tune the dish without having to be seeing the TV, a big advantage when setting up in trees.

Swing the Azimuth for best signal strength and then tweak the Elevation. In 6 years on the road, I have never had to tweak the Skew.

I always run the Switch Check after setting up the dish because the compass Deviation can be enough to put you on the wrong satellite, typically 129. If you get 129, 119, x then you are too far to the right.

Hi Brussam, I'm also a full-time RV-er and have DiSH with Hopper in Living-room and a Vip211 in Bedroom. I've been doing OK schlepping the Hopper and a Monitor outside to point, but want to stop putting the Hopper and Monitor at risk of the Elements, so I bought the newest First Strike Pro HD. I haven't had any success getting a signal however and was wondering what settings you use. The last thing I tried yesterday was using the Hopper to get a lock and then connecting the FS and trying all DiSH Frequencies and 18V to see if I could get a reading or even a lock. But no joy. I'd really appreciate your advise. Thanks! Karl
 
There is a download from the First Strike website that has the Dish satellites. I stripped out the other satellites and have just the Dish satellites. One parameter important for a DPP 1000.2 is the 22KHz signal.
 
Hi Brussam, I'm also a full-time RV-er and have DiSH with Hopper in Living-room and a Vip211 in Bedroom. I've been doing OK schlepping the Hopper and a Monitor outside to point, but want to stop putting the Hopper and Monitor at risk of the Elements, so I bought the newest First Strike Pro HD. I haven't had any success getting a signal however and was wondering what settings you use. The last thing I tried yesterday was using the Hopper to get a lock and then connecting the FS and trying all DiSH Frequencies and 18V to see if I could get a reading or even a lock. But no joy. I'd really appreciate your advise. Thanks! Karl

Simple trick been a satellite dealer since 1982, you're making a simple job very hard, use simple tools a level once you have a good signal first use the bubble level that goes into the pipe, make sure it exactly in the middle, now once you do find the signal get a straight piece of two by two, put a nail on one end use that to hang over the dishes edge lay a level on it, shim the level up with some wood so the level laying on it is dead level, stand behind the dish with a compass, aim at the middle of the feed, take a reading. NOW THE NEXT TIME YOU MOVE AROUND UNLESS ITS LIKE 300 MILES ALL YOU NEED IS TO RE-BUBBLE THE PIPE, ALL THE REST IS move the dish to line up with the compass reading, and you should be getting a weak signal and only need a touch up. GOOD LUCK also have a beer first, can't hurt
 
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I guess you never traveled very far in 36 years. Skew changes as you move.
 
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I guess you never traveled very far in 36 years. Skew changes as you move.
Of course it does, how far do you drive in one day? You can slowly change that, your offset is very important!!!!! Try doing a 12 foot dish with C-and Ku on it, plus a circular feed, with a Horzion motor and track it dead on from one horizon to the other, then you will know how important it is, the bigger the dish the more it becomes only a hair off to make a huge different
 

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