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Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
E* Switch configuration help:

Please, read this and LOOK for your switch information, and then read over the suggestions provided. This is pretty everything that you need to know.

Right now, the VOOM Channels are ONLY available on the 61.5. However, there are rumors(which make sense) that E* will add Voom to the 148. This has NOT been confirmed, but it may be worth waiting to see what is announced instead of wasting money for this IF you already have the 148. Those on the West Coast may have problems getting the 61.5 and Alaska and Hawaii are SOL(Sorry Guys).

Also note that right now, you cannot see Rainbow 1's transponders on the E* receiver. They are using Trans 1, 3, 5, 7. These will NOT show up on your signal strength screen until E* releases a software update(although it DOES show on the 921 according to Mark Lamutt). The receiver will be able to use them, however.

The first thing you need to do is find out what equipment you have. This can be easy, but it can also require a little work on your part depending on what you already have. The first part of this is for LEGACY systems. The second will be for Dish Pro(DP). Please keep in mind that you CANNOT mix legacy and DP DBS LNBs and switches. It is either one or the other.

PLEASE EVERYONE NOTE THAT a switch that starts with SW is a LEGACY switch and that a switch that starts with DP is a DISH PRO switch. It is VERY important that you keep this in mind when you post because you will create confusion for those who are newbies....

Almost ALL E* installs are connected to the 110 and 119 with a Dish500. Yours may use 2 dishes to do this. Generally, if you have a Dish500 and another dish, it is for the 61.5 or the 148. Superdishes will be discussed in the Dishpro section.

IF you need the 61.5(or the 148), you will need an 18Inch Dish. A D500 CAN be used, but it is recommended that you DO NOT use a Twin LNB unless you don't have access to another LNB. Due to popular demand, a new section about using this equipment has been added below.

A D* or V* dish CAN be used with ANY legacy setup. All the D* and V* LNBs are INTERCHANGABLE (EXCEPT the special SAT C D* LNB). A Dish PRO install will need either an E* dish or a D* dish that had the D-shaped arm. A rectangular arm dish CANNOT be used with a DP LNB without modifications(and it's not worth doing. You CAN add the E* I-bracket, but it will make the arm too long and mess with the signal. However, a measurement is being worked on for thos who are adventurous. WIll post when available.).

ANY E* Sub that has Local Channels available on the 61.5 Can get a free install done. However, YOU MUST ASK for the LOCALS ADDITIONAL DISH, and NOT an HD Upgrade for it to be free. Also, when having it installed for locals, E* is REQUIRED by the FCC to hook ALL activated receivers to the 61.5(or 148 if that is used in your area).

Keep in mind that ONLY an HD receiver can SEE HD channels. Therefore, unless you plan to add an HD receiver soon, you may only have to hook the 61.5 up to 1 receiver and not all of your receivers.

IF you are UNSURE, PLEASE call a professional. A local Retailer or E* will be more than willing to help you for a reasonable price if necessary.

IF you have a VOOM dish already pointed at the 61.5 and are using legacy E* equipment, you do NOT have to repoint it. If you are using DP equipment, you will need a new D-Arm Dish.

#1 - Find out what you have. The following is a list of available legacy E* switches and what they are:

500 Twin - Picks up the 110 & 119 and can feed 2 receivers MAX,
500 Quad - Picks up the 110 & 119 and can feed 4 receivers.
SW21 - Used to combine LNBs and/or one LNB and one Switch. Very useful.
SW42 - Basically 2 SW21s in 1 box. Uses the same switching as the 500 Twin.
SW44 - Used for 2 sat locations. Requires a Power Inserter. Requires 2 lines from each LNB. Feeds up to 4 receivers.
SW64 - Used for 3 sat locations. Requires a Power Inserter. Requires 2 lines from each LNB. Feeds up to 4 receivers.
SWAJ - Similar to the SW21, but required power from the Accessory Jack used on some receivers. Basically had to be put at the receiver and had to have 1 wire from each dish ran to it. Unsupported and unusable.
Single LNB - DBS LNB that only has 1 output. Can ONLY be connected to 1 receiver.
Dual LNB - DBS LNB that had 2 outputs. Can be connected to 2 receivers or to a switch to go to 4 or more receivers.
D* 2x4 or 3x4 MultiSwitch - Simple multiswicth that allows a Dual LNB to be connected to up to 4 receivers. Also available in a 2x8 and 3x8 for up to 8 receivers. CAN be used with E*, but the setups get horribly complicated and is NOT recommended for anyone other than an Expert.

SW21 - 3Sat - This is seen when you have either a 500 Twin or Quad OR an SW44 connected to a 3rd location with an SW21.
SW21 - 4Sat - This is seen when you have an SW64 connected to a 4th location with an SW21. This is also how a legacy receiver will "see" a DP+44 Switch.


IF you have a 500 Twin or Quad- You will need an 18" dish and a Single or Dual LNB to get the 61.5 as well as an SW21(or 2 for 2 receivers). Connect the line from the 500 Twin to the SW21 and connect the other LNB to the SW21. DO A CHECK SWITCH.

If you have an SW44 - You can connect the SW44 and the another LNB with an SW21. DO NOT USE PORT 1 due to the power inserter. It will DESTROY the SW21! OR you can replace the SW44 with an SW64 and add the new dish and DUAL LNB to the SW64. DO A CHECK SWITCH.

If you have an SW64 and do not get the 61.5 - You can connect the SW64 and the another LNB with an SW21. DO NOT USE PORT 1 due to the power inserter. It will DESTROY the SW21! DO A CHECK SWITCH.

PLEASE NOTE: You CANNOT cascade 2 SW21s. You MUST have another switch cascaded to the SW21. Microyal, www.microyal.com offers E* compatible switches. They offer the SW21X, which is basically 1/2 of an SW42, and CAN be cascaded with an SW21. You CANNOT casecade an SW21X with a 500Twin or Quad.

PLEASE NOTE: Cascading Multiple SW64 switches together is beyond the scope of this and should ONLY be done by a professional to protect the equipment.

Dish Pro:

ALL DP LNBs or Switches have a DP logo or a DPPlus Logo on them, and it is usually very visible.

DP Single or Dual - DP LNB for 1 sat location.
DP Twin - Picks up the 110 & 119 - Can feed 2 receivers directly OR be connected to another switch. When connected to a DP34 or DP+44, you need BOTH lines connected to these switches.
DP Quad - Picks up the 110 & 119 - Can feed 2 receivers directly OR be connected to another switch. When connected to a DP34 or DP+44, you need at LEAST 2 lines connected to these switches. The other 2 can be connected directly to a receiver, but you won't get the extra sat locations from the DP34 or DP+44.
DP21 - Similar to the SW21. Connects 1 single or dual DP LNB to another LNB or switch. CANNOT connect 2 DP switches together.
DP34 - Allows up to 3 Sats to be connected to up to 4 receivers. Can be connected to 2 more DP34s for up to 12 receivers/tuners. REQUIRES 1 Wire from each location.
DP+Twin - Picks up the 110 & 119, Can feed up to 4 tuners. Has a port to add a 3rd location built into it. CAN be used with a DP+ Seperator and a Dual Tuner receiver. Can be connected to a DP34 or a DP+44, but will ONLY transmit the 110 & 119 when connected this way.
DP+44 - Allows up to 4 Sats to be connected to 4 receivers or up to 8 tuners with the DP+ Seperators. Requires POWER INSERTION.
DP+ Seperator - Allows a DP+ Dual Tuner receiver(322/522/625/721/921/942) to connect to a DP+44 or DP+ Twin(excluding the 721 right now) with only 1 wire.
SuperDish 105 or 121 - Used with the FSS sats at those locations. The SuperDish comes with a DP34. It can be connected to a DP+44 as well. SuperDishes DO NOT pick up the 61.5. You NEED a second dish.

You CANNOT run a DP21 into a DP34, DP+44, or DP+Twin. It DOES Not work that way. It only works BETWEEN These switches and the receiver(unsure about the DP+Twin, but don't see why it won't work). Also, using a DP21 with a DP+ switch removes the ability to use the DP+ Seperator, so PLEASE keep this in mind.

You CANNOT use a DP21 with a DP+44 and the DP+ Seperator. When you use the DP21s, you MUST have 1 line to each tuner. The DP21 is NOT DP+. It only band stacks. It does NOT band translate/share.

If you have a DP Twin or Quad- You will need an 18" dish and a Single or Dual DP LNB to get the 61.5 as well as an DP21(or 2 for 2 receivers). Connect the line from the DP Twin or Quad to the DP21 and connect the other DP LNB to the DP21. DO A CHECK SWITCH.

If you have a DP34 - You can connect the DP34 and the another DP LNB with a DP21. OR you can replace the DP34 with a DP+44 and add the new dish and DP LNB to the DP+44. DO A CHECK SWITCH.

If you have an DP+44 and do not get the 61.5 - You can connect the DP+44 and the other DP LNB with an DP21. DO NOT USE PORT 1 due to the power inserter. It will DESTROY the DP21! DO A CHECK SWITCH.

Please keep in mind that legacy switches like the SW44 and SW64 HAVE to have 2 lines from each LNB/Location to work properly, whereas an SW21 only needs 1.

Also keep in mind that a DP switch, like the DP21, DP+Twin, DP34, or DP+44 REQUIRE 1 wire from each LNB/Location.

When cascading 1 DP34 into another DP34, if you want the same sats on all Tuners, you MUST connect each output from the first DP34 into each input on the 2nd DP34(they do NOT have to be in the same order). Same goes for the DP+44. You can also cascade a DP+44 into a DP34, but you will lose 1 sat in this config. Also keep in mind that when cascading DP34s that at least 1 receiver on the first switch MUST be plugged in to power the switch. With the DP+44s, you MUST have the power inserters plugged in for each switch for them to see the signals.

Revision:

Using a DPTwin on a D500 to get the 61.5:

1. Set the skew of the D500 at 90 degress so that the arm is not tilted.
2. Connect the Twin DIRECTLY to a receiver.
3. Cover the 110 side of the LNB with a peice of tin foil or thick cloth.
4. Set the elavation. Tune the dish.
5. Once you have the signal locked, connect the dish to your equipment. Remove the cover.
6. Run the check switch. It SHOULD show 4 locations with 1 as an X for signal and NC for sat(assuming you are connecting to a DP34. A DP21 should only "see" the 119 side to begin with).

When using the DPTwin with a DP21, you may have problems when using a DPTwin on the 110/119 since the DP21 only "sees" 1 switch. You may have to re-run the switch check a few times. The DP34 should not have any problems.

I would NOT try using a 500 Twin since the SW21 may not see the second 500Twin. If need be I will try it in the next few days and see what happens.


Good Luck!

This post is mirrored at DBSTalk.com as well as the EchoStar Knowledge base at http://ekb.dbstalk.com/Adding%2061-5%20dish.htm
192 Replies · 34781 views
tjbeckett
you will be looking for the normal signal on 61.5 somewhere around 80+ t29 is the home transponder for 61.5 so you need that to get the guide, but you'll also need to check an even number transponder too.......
M
Does anyone know what are the limitations are for long cable runs between the 61.5 dish and the DPP Twin LNB?

My equipment includes a 61.5 dish hooked into a DPP Twin LNB at the 110/119 dish location. I have lots of trees in my yard, so the two dishes needed to be separated by a long cable run in order to get a signal on all satellites. The 61.5 dish is on the roof and 110/119 dish is located in the back yard.

The cable run between the 61.5 dish and the DPP Twin LNB is approximately 120'. The cable run between the DPP Twin LNB and my 942 receiver is approximately 120'. I've heard that the cable run between the DPP Twin LNB and receiver can be over 200', but can't find any information on the cable run limitation between 61.5 dish and the DPP Twin LNB.

The reason I'm asking this question is because I'm running into problems that requires me to run a check switch every night. Also, I often get the acquiring satellite message while watching TV. The message usually goes away after a few seconds, but it's definitely annoying. I have reported the problem with Dish Network and they believe it's a software problem. However, one of the satellite installers I know believes there may be cable run limitation.
L
DishPro(including DP+) has a 200 ft limit when using SOLID Copper Center RG6. This is E*'s official requirement. If you are using Copper Clad Steel Center, you may be losing voltage to the 61.5. I would suggest replacing with DP+44 to limit overall legnth. The DP+Twin is great if your dishes are side by side.....
M
larrystotler said:
DishPro(including DP+) has a 200 ft limit when using SOLID Copper Center RG6. This is E*'s official requirement. If you are using Copper Clad Steel Center, you may be loosing voltage to the 61.5. I would suggest replacing with DP+44 to limit overall legnth. The DP+Twin is great if your dishes are side by side.....
Thanks for the info and quick response.
Tom Bombadil
I will note that Dish's recommendations tend to be on the conservative side, which they should be as that reduces the number of problems. I'm still using legacy gear and I've exceeded Dish's recommended cable runs by over 50' with no problems. The key to my success has been in using good quality cable, with both good center conductors and good connectors. I tried the same distance with a cheap cable and it didn't work.
Peter Parker
Supporting Founder Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
No idea what improvements might be involved.
30 Replies · 1772 views
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rvvaquero
That's a lot of information to ingest. However, I don't have the Hopper Plus and my 54 remote is doing crazy things to the Hopper 3. Several times each evening when I press the skip forward button several times to advance through a commercial, it switches the receiver either onto live TV or into suspension. Other buttons will also cause this randomly, I haven't established any patterns I can describe. I use "recall" to go back to my recorded program in progress.

Needless to say, something in the newer Hopper 3 softwares has caused the remote functioning to ......................malfunction. Evidently, it applies to third party remotes as well as DISH's own remotes.
GRB1959
That's a lot of information to ingest. However, I don't have the Hopper Plus and my 54 remote is doing crazy things to the Hopper 3. Several times each evening when I press the skip forward button several times to advance through a commercial, it switches the receiver either onto live TV or into suspension. Other buttons will also cause this randomly, I haven't established any patterns I can describe. I use "recall" to go back to my recorded program in progress.

Needless to say, something in the newer Hopper 3 softwares has caused the remote functioning to ......................malfunction. Evidently, it applies to third party remotes as well as DISH's own remotes.

This is exactly the same issue I was having as I had the Hopper 3 and 54 remote without the Hopper Plus and the symptoms were virtually identical to yours.
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ERSanders
We have had a corolary problem in this and the prior s/w. Using several different 40.0 remotes (yeah, we're old), when one pauses a live or recorded show it becomes a crap shoot whether it will step foreward the 30" as requested, jump to the end, or restart the episode. Tried the famous 60" reboot to no avail and have decided to live with it vs. a receiver swap risk.
T
I think there's a change to the "skip forward 30 seconds". With CBS that does not have auto-skip, if you stack up a bunch of 30 second forwards it seems to stop when the kangaroo signaling the end of the commercial break appears.
long_time_Dish
Also posted this in the 3rd party remote thread.

My Hopper 3 updated itself to H713 last week and the IR issue is worse now. On H711, I could be on an SD channel for several hours and the IR side of my H3 would still be responsive without my having to tap the View button on my Pronto Pro every 15 minutes. Now, if I stay even on an SD channel without tapping the View button at least once an hour, it becomes unresponsive to my Pronto Pro without tapping the View button at least 5-20 times, just like on the HD and 4K channels. So, H713 actually made the issue worse. :(

brittanygarden
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WildBill
· posted in DISH Network Support Forum
I've been having intermittent problems with Amazon Prime video programs loading using the H3 guide listing. I can get to the program I want to watch, but when I try to view it, it starts to load and then stalls. Eventually, a screen pops up saying "something went wrong, try again later". I've tried rebooting the hopper without success. Sometimes switching the HDMI input on my LG TV works, but not always. I don't have this problem on my phone or computer, so it is not a network or router issue.

I did a quick google search and found that this is a common problem associated with overloading or corruption of the data cache in the Amazon app and the solution is to clear the cache. Easy to do on a computer or phone, but I don't know how to do this on the H3. If anyone a solution or suggestion, I'd appreciate some help. Thanks.
0 Replies · 7 views
dfergie
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU!
Last reply · posted in What's Cooking?
We have a Breakfast and Dinner thread so... :)
Continuing from the Breakfast thread, found Cornbread mix so ...
Yellow Cornbread Mix
2 Hatch Green Chiles -diced
1 Egg
2/3 cup of milk
add to greased pan
Bake for 400f 20-25 minutes(From instructions)
now to put together and try... this to go with pinto beans...
5452 Replies · 336389 views
dfergie
IMG_5955.webp

Sweet tea…
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TRG
TRG
Tuna salad sandwich on toasted honey whole wheat bread with a handful of kettle chips. Water.
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TRG
TRG
Breakfast for lunch. Crispy corned beef hash, home fries, two over easy eggs and sourdough toast.

1653.webp
TRG
TRG
Grabbed a burrito on the run. Beef, pinto beans, green chile and cheese. Stewart's cream soda.

burr.webp
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dfergie
Beef, bean green chile, cheese homemade burritos here... Water
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Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68707 Replies · 2683050 views
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dishstaller
The First Time Ever I Saw Your Face - Roberta Flack
harshness
In the Still of the Night - The Five Satins
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Bobby
I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For - David Cook
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sdfntx
Looking for the Next Best Thing - Warren Zevon
long_time_Dish
Werewolves Of London - Warren Zevon
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Was raining yesterday so I went to Sams up in Dothan to stock up on some things. Haven't been there in quite a while. I was amazed at how large most of the TVs were. When I walked in they had a 100 in Vizio (I think it was Vizio) that was marked down to something like $1,200. The first rows of TVs were all in the 80 in + sizes. The next couple of rows had the "smaller" models....those 75 and under. I was amazed at how small the 75s looked when lined up with the larger screens.
4 Replies · 52 views
osu1991
Q-LED and Mini LED panels have improved the picture quality and the tv's are so thin and nearly without bezels now. I've thought about replacing the 75in 4k DV/HDR LED Sony in my living room with a newer 86in. That's as big as I can go without construction changes. I watch the 75in 4k DV/HDR Q-LED in my bedroom and the difference between the two is very noticeable. There's nothing wrong with the living room tv though and I don't now that I actually watch enough anymore to really justify it. I could move it out to the patio but the 65in Q-LED out there looks really good and I'd have to change the mount to accomdate a larger tv out there.
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Foxbat
I'm at a limit for TV sizes at this time. My Father-in-Law crafted a custom entertainment center for our family room and we were restricted from going too big based on the side cabinets and central bridge fitting in the width of the room. It turns out to be where a 55" screen with bezels fits but no 65" bezel-less screen can fit. I think there was a brief period where 58" screens where a thing, but no more.

So, no huge screens for the Foxbat's…
TRG
TRG
I'm at a limit for TV sizes at this time. My Father-in-Law crafted a custom entertainment center for our family room and we were restricted from going too big based on the side cabinets and central bridge fitting in the width of the room. It turns out to be where a 55" screen with bezels fits but no 65" bezel-less screen can fit. I think there was a brief period where 58" screens where a thing, but no more.

So, no huge screens for the Foxbat's…

55" is plenty big.
dishstaller
55" is plenty big.
And to think....I was SO proud of myself when I bought a 27 in TV in the late 80s. Everyone just had a 25 in so I was really in high cotton.
TRG
TRG
Pub Member / Supporter
· posted in The Chit Chat Club
I've pretty much done most things in Ireland and I'm thinking about the other side of the Irish sea. I'm thinking about traveling to Wales this summer. My second choice would be Scotland. I don't want anything to do with London except maybe landing in Heathrow and then escaping quickly.

Any tips or experiences to share?
0 Replies · 11 views