Social Feed

J
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Hi all,

Latest fiasco wound up in a room mate disconnecting the 322 to stop the other room mate from getting tv. (he could have just taken off the antenna).
Anyway, it's my account, and after those two sorted things out, the 322 was re-connected and now is doesn't work.

TV1 screen only shows "press select to continue" and that's it. This box gave some problems when first connected and then again when they came to move the dish. It would stick at the "acquiring signal" screen and took serveral re-sets to finally get going.

The one room mate called in and went through tech support. They told him the receiver is bad and a new one is being sent. I do know that when it was disconnected that it wasn't abused, but it did not sit for 2 minutes. The guy unplugged everything and picked it up immediately.

Bottom line is that they said there will be no charge if there is no physical damage. Could that disconnect be called physical damage? Would handling it too soon damage the HD to the point that I have to pay for it and remove the other units in the house?
Thanks
Tim
8 Replies · 2037 views
J
TJ,

Yes, that's the same reset I did. Hold the button for 10 seconds.
Also, just tried the remote address change, several times, exactly as you outlined. Turning off the power, etc.

Still just a screen that says "press select to continue". At least it confirms that the box isn't working. New one will be here in a couple more days.

Thanks for your info. I'll post the outcome when the new box arrives.

Thanks also for confirming the 14.95.

Tim
J
new 322, still down

Got the 322 today, tried to install it, failed. Called tech support and was told to wait til I can get the tv2 remote. Guy comes home gets tv2 remote and turns it off, so tv1 can work. TV1 remote doesn't work. TV2 operates the box now and tv1 will only do power on/off. So some more jostling around and nothing changes. The box can't get a signal and the bottom line error is about the switch or a connection. Changed the rg6's from sat 1/2 to sat 2/1 etc. It all works the same, tv2 operates the main box (tv1) and physical tv2 has no signal.
TV 1 using tv1 remote after fpreset (heh, that means front panel ;), still has the "to continue press select" screen that was there in the first place.

Checked all the physical lines and connections from sats to switch and tv's. Everything looks good. So, now another 3 days down til an installer can get here. We have the regular dish as well as local station dish. This problem is only on the 322.
The 510 which runs to the same switch (Box under the deck) works just fine.
J
anyone?
MikeD-C05
See if you can look in your Dish manual and see the part that tells you how to address your remotes so each remote has a different code. Do what it tells you and you should be able to address each remote to control the receiver. Make sure you have your uhf antenna for remote control plugged into your receiver. If nothing else call 1-800-333- dish and talk to the tech department. They might be able to walk you through. If they determine there is a problem they can't solve, they will issue a replacement receiver: IF you are still in warrenty ,under one year . If not then add the dish home protection warrenty for $ 5.99 and they will still give you a replacement. When you have a new receiver you can drop the warrenty again till you need it the next time.
J
Well, the installer just left. I don't know exactly what happened. First thing he did was change ports on the switch. Then he called in to activate the new 322. Everything works fine now.

But, that's not what he wrote on the ticket. On the ticket he wrote that he programmed the remote and changed the sat. 1/2 cables around. I know the cables were backwards because we switched them during trouble shooting.

And the tv2 cable was loose because the first installer didn't criimp it. This installer said that would cause the problem too, but it always worked before.

I'm just worried that I'll get charged because of what he wrote on the ticket. I didn't sign it, one of the room mates did. But at least everthing works now, so that's a good thing.

Thanks for the replies.
Tim
Bobby
Supporting Founder Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
This is a thread that will keep you apprised of 4K events that will be showing on Dish channel 540. Keep looking here for information.

As of today, 9-27-17, there are no scheduled events posted for the next 2 weeks. That is subject to change on a daily basis.
770 Replies · 168520 views
Bobby
MLB, Brewers at Rays, Monday 10-26, 5PM PDT, Channel 148-01.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
Bobby
MLB, Brewers at Rays, Tuesday 10-27, 5PM PDT, Channel 148-01.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
Bobby
CFB, Florida vs Georgia, Saturday 10-31, 12:30PM PDT, Channel 148-03.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
Bobby
CFB, Wisconsin at Iowa, Saturday 10-31, 9AM PDT, Channel 148-01.
CFB, Arizona St at BYU, Saturday 10-31, 12:30PM PDT, Channel 148-01.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
Bobby
CFB, Alabama at LSU, Saturday 11-7, 12:30PM PST, Channel 148-03.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
WildBill
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
I've been having intermittent problems with Amazon Prime video programs loading using the H3 guide listing. I can get to the program I want to watch, but when I try to view it, it starts to load and then stalls. Eventually, a screen pops up saying "something went wrong, try again later". I've tried rebooting the hopper without success. Sometimes switching the HDMI input on my LG TV works, but not always. I don't have this problem on my phone or computer, so it is not a network or router issue.

I did a quick google search and found that this is a common problem associated with overloading or corruption of the data cache in the Amazon app and the solution is to clear the cache. Easy to do on a computer or phone, but I don't know how to do this on the H3. If anyone a solution or suggestion, I'd appreciate some help. Thanks.
1 Replies · 30 views
R
I gave up trying to watch Prime through my H3 a long time ago.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
M
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?
10 Replies · 522 views
Almighty1
Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?
I have a DISH Hopper 3 (Software H713) with Hopper Plus (Software P15403). I have not tried streaming services but I primarily watch TVB Jadeworld international package which is only available by streaming and when I have an issue, I usually have to go to a non-streaming satellite channel first before the streaming channels will work again. What software versions do you have and what is the error message if any are showing on your screen? or is that Dish downloading logo just stuck and never finishes?
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
M
I have a DISH Hopper 3 (Software H713) with Hopper Plus (Software P15403). I have not tried streaming services but I primarily watch TVB Jadeworld international package which is only available by streaming and when I have an issue, I usually have to go to a non-streaming satellite channel first before the streaming channels will work again. What software versions do you have and what is the error message if any are showing on your screen? or is that Dish downloading logo just stuck and never finishes?
I'm on H713 on the Hopper and P15403 on the Hopper Plus. It shows internet connection issues and doesn't finish loading the various services. I see the "loading circle going around. Sometimes I get a message saying that the service is having trouble loading my content and to check the internet connection.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
Almighty1
I'm on H713 on the Hopper and P15403 on the Hopper Plus. It shows internet connection issues and doesn't finish loading the various services. I see the "loading circle going around. Sometimes I get a message saying that the service is having trouble loading my content and to check the internet connection.
Did it ever work correctly before? Hard to say what the problem is. Usually for streaming, it will show the Dish logo with lines sweeping down to show downloading, never seen the circle issue. Did you try a manual reboot, red button reset, power cord unplug/replug to see if it makes a difference.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
S
Did it ever work correctly before? Hard to say what the problem is. Usually for streaming, it will show the Dish logo with lines sweeping down to show downloading, never seen the circle issue. Did you try a manual reboot, red button reset, power cord unplug/replug to see if it makes a difference.
Might be worth just to ditch the hopper plus. No issues here on h713
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
S
Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?
Buy a roku and dump the hopper plus you'll be better off. If you have a smart tv you don't need either one. No hopper plus here and no issues!!!
Almighty1
Might be worth just to ditch the hopper plus. No issues here on h713
I have a Hopper Plus and no issues either. charlesrshell has both a Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and one without, he doesn't have the same issue. Before blaming it on the Hopper Plus, he should see if the problem still exists without the Hopper Plus connected as it could be the Internet connection itself or some setting in the router itself. There is someone in another thread who has EHD issues on the Hopper 3 only setup but does not have the EHD issues on the Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and he has already tried swapping the EHD and it did not make a difference so like the saying, YMMV.
Almighty1
Buy a roku and dump the hopper plus you'll be better off. If you have a smart tv you don't need either one. No hopper plus here and no issues!!!
The Roku costs $$$, Hopper Plus is free. That may not be the only costs as it depends if the TV in question still has available HDMI ports and if not, it will require a HDMI switch and HDMI cable which adds more to the cost.

I have a LG 3D OLED Smart TV and I still need either of them because it does not have Android TV built in. Add a Hopper Plus and see if you actually have issues or not as until you actually tried it, it means nothing.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
jsmit86
If the OP has a router and a managed switch, that could be the problem.
I have a Hopper 3 and 5 Joey 4s. I recently updated my Router, Switch and access points with Ubiquiti UniFi gear. I had an issue where the switch interpreted the communication between the hopper internet connection and one of the Joeys as a data loop. I had to change some settings in the switch to re-enable that port. Your router could possibly be doing the same thing blocking the connection.

If your router has a malware connection setting, try disabling it temporarily, and see if the internet comes back. Contact your ISP and see if there is a block happening at the router or switch level, or via the ISP's threat protection.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
Almighty1
If the OP has a router and a managed switch, that could be the problem.
I have a Hopper 3 and 5 Joey 4s. I recently updated my Router, Switch and access points with Ubiquiti UniFi gear. I had an issue where the switch interpreted the communication between the hopper internet connection and one of the Joeys as a data loop. I had to change some settings in the switch to re-enable that port. Your router could possibly be doing the same thing blocking the connection.

If your router has a malware connection setting, try disabling it temporarily, and see if the internet comes back. Contact your ISP and see if there is a block happening at the router or switch level, or via the ISP's threat protection.
Can you share what settings you had to change?

Required Inbound & Outbound Network Ports
The standard ports designated for DISH Hopper configurations include:
    • TCP Port 80 – HTTP communication
    • TCP Port 443 – HTTPS secure communication
    • TCP Port 5678 – Neighbor Discovery / Device Sync
    • UDP Port 80 – Alternative streaming/network data
    • UDP Port 443 – Alternative secure media streams
    • UDP Port 5678 – Remote pairing and network discovery
Critical Network & Security Considerations
    • UPnP (Universal Plug and Play): Enabling UPnP on your router is the easiest way to allow the Hopper to automatically handle its own port maps.
    Internal Communication (MoCA & Local LAN): The Hopper Plus and Joeys communicate internally over your local home network using router's default internal traffic policies. Local firewall software or strict internal VLAN isolation can block the Hopper 3 from seeing the Hopper Plus or Joey extensions.

    The other thing is that these are streaming channels which was why I asked if they have worked correctly even without the Hopper Plus as checking the post history of the OP, it appears that the Hopper Plus was added around 1/2 a year ago and from looking at my own Internet settings portion, all the Hopper 3 does is really measure signal strenth for WiFi and probably just check ping times to show it is connected or not to the internet, it does not check the actual speed or latency. Since the OP has a Hopper Plus, OP can always install the Speedtest app for diagnostics and then take a photo of the results and post it here. Before 2017, I used tȯhave 6Mbps/768Kbps ADSL and even though the Hopper 1 and Hopper 3 also showed internet connectivity is okay, everytime my Ring Doorbell is uploading, it would knock the entire internet connection off-line as the upload pipe would be 100% filled by the Ring Door bell uploading the video because the ACKnowledgement packets would not have priority being sent back in time which was fixed with QoS traffic shaping but that still does not mean streaming will work as it requires at least 25Mbps minimum or more if there are other devices on the same connection sharing the bandwidth.


    ​
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
jsmit86
Can you share what settings you had to change?

Required Inbound & Outbound Network Ports
The standard ports designated for DISH Hopper configurations include:
    • TCP Port 80 – HTTP communication
    • TCP Port 443 – HTTPS secure communication
    • TCP Port 5678 – Neighbor Discovery / Device Sync
    • UDP Port 80 – Alternative streaming/network data
    • UDP Port 443 – Alternative secure media streams
    • UDP Port 5678 – Remote pairing and network discovery
Critical Network & Security Considerations
    • UPnP (Universal Plug and Play): Enabling UPnP on your router is the easiest way to allow the Hopper to automatically handle its own port maps.
    • Internal Communication (MoCA & Local LAN): The Hopper Plus and Joeys communicate internally over your local home network using router's default internal traffic policies. Local firewall software or strict internal VLAN isolation can block the Hopper 3 from seeing the Hopper Plus or Joey extensions.The other thing is that these are streaming channels which was why I asked if they have worked correctly even without the Hopper Plus as checking the post history of the OP, it appears that the Hopper Plus was added around 1/2 a year ago and from looking at my own Internet settings portion, all the Hopper 3 does is really measure signal strenth for WiFi and probably just check ping times to show it is connected or not to the internet, it does not check the actual speed or latency. Since the OP has a Hopper Plus, OP can always install the Speedtest app for diagnostics and then take a photo of the results and post it here. Before 2017, I used tȯhave 6Mbps/768Kbps ADSL and even though the Hopper 1 and Hopper 3 also showed internet connectivity is okay, everytime my Ring Doorbell is uploading, it would knock the entire internet connection off-line as the upload pipe would be 100% filled by the Ring Door bell uploading the video because the ACKnowledgement packets would not have priority being sent back in time which was fixed with QoS traffic shaping but that still does not mean streaming will work as it requires at least 25Mbps minimum or more if there are other devices on the same connection sharing the bandwidth.
This was for port settings for the switch, not the router.

Originally was recommended to use EDGE vs. Infrastructure, but had to change that back to Infrastructure.

Had to leave STP (Spanning tree protocol) ON, but disable BPDU guard, and also had to disable Non-STP loop protection.

The previous settings were flagging normal dish system packets as a data loop, and fully blocked that port on the UniFI Pro Max 16 POE switch.

These were specific to my managed switch, and may not apply to the OP's issue.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
Peter Parker
Supporting Founder Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
No idea what improvements might be involved.
30 Replies · 1788 views
  • Like
Reactions: LQQK and reubenray
rvvaquero
That's a lot of information to ingest. However, I don't have the Hopper Plus and my 54 remote is doing crazy things to the Hopper 3. Several times each evening when I press the skip forward button several times to advance through a commercial, it switches the receiver either onto live TV or into suspension. Other buttons will also cause this randomly, I haven't established any patterns I can describe. I use "recall" to go back to my recorded program in progress.

Needless to say, something in the newer Hopper 3 softwares has caused the remote functioning to ......................malfunction. Evidently, it applies to third party remotes as well as DISH's own remotes.
GRB1959
That's a lot of information to ingest. However, I don't have the Hopper Plus and my 54 remote is doing crazy things to the Hopper 3. Several times each evening when I press the skip forward button several times to advance through a commercial, it switches the receiver either onto live TV or into suspension. Other buttons will also cause this randomly, I haven't established any patterns I can describe. I use "recall" to go back to my recorded program in progress.

Needless to say, something in the newer Hopper 3 softwares has caused the remote functioning to ......................malfunction. Evidently, it applies to third party remotes as well as DISH's own remotes.

This is exactly the same issue I was having as I had the Hopper 3 and 54 remote without the Hopper Plus and the symptoms were virtually identical to yours.
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
ERSanders
We have had a corolary problem in this and the prior s/w. Using several different 40.0 remotes (yeah, we're old), when one pauses a live or recorded show it becomes a crap shoot whether it will step foreward the 30" as requested, jump to the end, or restart the episode. Tried the famous 60" reboot to no avail and have decided to live with it vs. a receiver swap risk.
T
I think there's a change to the "skip forward 30 seconds". With CBS that does not have auto-skip, if you stack up a bunch of 30 second forwards it seems to stop when the kangaroo signaling the end of the commercial break appears.
long_time_Dish
Also posted this in the 3rd party remote thread.

My Hopper 3 updated itself to H713 last week and the IR issue is worse now. On H711, I could be on an SD channel for several hours and the IR side of my H3 would still be responsive without my having to tap the View button on my Pronto Pro every 15 minutes. Now, if I stay even on an SD channel without tapping the View button at least once an hour, it becomes unresponsive to my Pronto Pro without tapping the View button at least 5-20 times, just like on the HD and 4K channels. So, H713 actually made the issue worse. :(

brittanygarden
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
dfergie
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU!
Last reply · posted in What's Cooking?
We have a Breakfast and Dinner thread so... :)
Continuing from the Breakfast thread, found Cornbread mix so ...
Yellow Cornbread Mix
2 Hatch Green Chiles -diced
1 Egg
2/3 cup of milk
add to greased pan
Bake for 400f 20-25 minutes(From instructions)
now to put together and try... this to go with pinto beans...
5452 Replies · 336401 views
dfergie
IMG_5955.webp

Sweet tea…
  • Like
Reactions: Bobby and TRG
TRG
TRG
Tuna salad sandwich on toasted honey whole wheat bread with a handful of kettle chips. Water.
  • Like
Reactions: Bobby
TRG
TRG
Breakfast for lunch. Crispy corned beef hash, home fries, two over easy eggs and sourdough toast.

1653.webp
TRG
TRG
Grabbed a burrito on the run. Beef, pinto beans, green chile and cheese. Stewart's cream soda.

burr.webp
  • Like
Reactions: Mr Tony and dfergie
dfergie
Beef, bean green chile, cheese homemade burritos here... Water
  • Like
Reactions: TRG
Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68707 Replies · 2683100 views
  • Like
Reactions: c-spand
dishstaller
The First Time Ever I Saw Your Face - Roberta Flack
harshness
In the Still of the Night - The Five Satins
  • Like
Reactions: RaiderPower
Bobby
I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For - David Cook
  • Like
Reactions: dishstaller
sdfntx
Looking for the Next Best Thing - Warren Zevon
long_time_Dish
Werewolves Of London - Warren Zevon
  • Like
Reactions: RaiderPower
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Was raining yesterday so I went to Sams up in Dothan to stock up on some things. Haven't been there in quite a while. I was amazed at how large most of the TVs were. When I walked in they had a 100 in Vizio (I think it was Vizio) that was marked down to something like $1,200. The first rows of TVs were all in the 80 in + sizes. The next couple of rows had the "smaller" models....those 75 and under. I was amazed at how small the 75s looked when lined up with the larger screens.
4 Replies · 58 views
osu1991
Q-LED and Mini LED panels have improved the picture quality and the tv's are so thin and nearly without bezels now. I've thought about replacing the 75in 4k DV/HDR LED Sony in my living room with a newer 86in. That's as big as I can go without construction changes. I watch the 75in 4k DV/HDR Q-LED in my bedroom and the difference between the two is very noticeable. There's nothing wrong with the living room tv though and I don't now that I actually watch enough anymore to really justify it. I could move it out to the patio but the 65in Q-LED out there looks really good and I'd have to change the mount to accomdate a larger tv out there.
  • Like
Reactions: dishstaller
Foxbat
I'm at a limit for TV sizes at this time. My Father-in-Law crafted a custom entertainment center for our family room and we were restricted from going too big based on the side cabinets and central bridge fitting in the width of the room. It turns out to be where a 55" screen with bezels fits but no 65" bezel-less screen can fit. I think there was a brief period where 58" screens where a thing, but no more.

So, no huge screens for the Foxbat's…
TRG
TRG
I'm at a limit for TV sizes at this time. My Father-in-Law crafted a custom entertainment center for our family room and we were restricted from going too big based on the side cabinets and central bridge fitting in the width of the room. It turns out to be where a 55" screen with bezels fits but no 65" bezel-less screen can fit. I think there was a brief period where 58" screens where a thing, but no more.

So, no huge screens for the Foxbat's…

55" is plenty big.
dishstaller
55" is plenty big.
And to think....I was SO proud of myself when I bought a 27 in TV in the late 80s. Everyone just had a 25 in so I was really in high cotton.
TRG
TRG
Pub Member / Supporter
· posted in The Chit Chat Club
I've pretty much done most things in Ireland and I'm thinking about the other side of the Irish sea. I'm thinking about traveling to Wales this summer. My second choice would be Scotland. I don't want anything to do with London except maybe landing in Heathrow and then escaping quickly.

Any tips or experiences to share?
0 Replies · 16 views