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Stuart Sweet
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Pub Member / Supporter Cutting Edge
· posted in The Solid Signal Blog
The other day I was watching a movie on Max, my new favorite channel to complain about. (Let's say they still have a bit of work to do on their app and leave it at that.) I have a fairly decent and modern home theater system with enough power to meet my needs. It's pretty rare that I need to turn it up higher than -30 (I'll explain that number in a minute) even if I really want to rock out.

On this particular film I ended up turning the volume up to -5. This is one of those home theater receivers that will actually go up to +10 if you're willing to put up with some distortion. Still, it's pretty rare that I ever have to turn it up even close to that high.

So what gives?

Probably an Atmos thing


Dolby Atmos is the latest and greatest surround technology. It allows for up to 128 tracks of audio where previous systems topped out at 9 (7 primary and 2 bass tracks.) No one expects you to have 128 speakers, though. What it does is takes the locations of your speakers in 3D space and uses fancy computer trickery to simulate the speakers you don't have. Depending on your home system you can hook up as many speakers as you want and it will do the rest.

I'm figuring that Dolby Atmos just didn't know what to do with my home sound system. It's not that different from the one you might have, but for whatever reason I think that some audio data was being lost. That theory fits the facts because the audio was also a little distorted, as if the "spatializer" tech wasn't doing its job right.

Forcing a downmix to 5.1 audio didn't really fix the problem though, so I'm still at a bit of a loss. It's just been two or three movies in the last few years with this sort of problem, so I don't think about it until…

…inevitably I go to another streaming app or to live TV.


As soon as I go to another app or to live TV, my sound system comes back in a big way. -14 is almost painfully loud on most channels, especially live TV where the sound level is best with the receiver at about -35 to -40.

And this, in turn, makes me scream, whether it's Saturday or some other day.

The problem is particularly bad with streaming. In decades past, pay-TV providers worked very hard to balance the volume between channels. They also worked equally hard, thanks to actual federal laws, to make sure that commercials weren't louder than everything else. I'm not saying everything is perfect on pay-TV, but it's nowhere near as bad as it is with streaming.

It seems like every streaming app has its own idea of what constitutes the "right" volume level. Some are a lot louder than others. Within apps, the differences can be obvious between movies and programs that used to air on pay-TV. Which brings me back, inevitably, to my old favorite punching bag Max.

A quick drive-by jab at Max


After being a tad too quick to jump down their throats on day 1, I'm trying to give Max a little time to repair its app. I'm a little cranky about the fact that the old HBO Max app was working nigh on perfectly and the new one is a hot mess (at least on Apple TV.) But fixing things takes time especially when you've fouled them up as bad as they have.

Still, I can't help pointing out that this audio problem occurred on Max, and that app was coded by the same people who coded the original Discovery+ app. That app had major volume problems at launch. Programs were 8 – 10dB too loud. Even when I finally deleted it a month or so ago it was a few dB too loud. Now it seems like some of the programs are too soft, and I have to wonder if they just went too far.

Oh, and about those volume numbers.


This is the part of the article where I explain why my volume numbers were -30 and such. If you understand this part, that's cool, I promise I'll have more streaming news next week. If you think you can explain it better than I have, please leave comments. I'm always trying to find new ways to get this stuff out there.

When you're talking about high-quality audio, you want to avoid the distortion that comes from varying the amount of amplification you provide. So, most home theater receivers only operate at one level of amplification: maximum. Left alone, they would be blasting everything as loud as they could.

Obviously that wouldn't work very well for anyone. So, the way volume is controlled is by adding a "pad," also called an attenuator, to the signal after it's amplified. That's right, it's amplified to full volume and then masked down to the level you need it to be.

So, the volume numbers are always negative, because they represent how much volume you're getting compared to full volume. They're measured in decibels or dB, which turn out to be very hard to explain. I know, I've tried. In truth, when you're turning the volume down to -30, you're reducing the volume to 1/100th of its total power. But humans don't perceive sound the way scientists measure it, so you're more likely to think it's more like about 1/3 as loud as it could be.

The post STREAMING SATURDAY: Screaming Saturday (and every other day) appeared first on The Solid Signal Blog.

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Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68657 Replies · 2680157 views
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sdfntx
I Care About Detroit - Smokey Robinson & the Miracles
dishstaller
I Wanna Talk About Me - Toby Keith
Bobby
98.6 - Keith
harshness
I'm Easy - Keith Carridine
gms49ers
It's Easy - Boston
R
Last reply · posted in Computers and Gadgets
Lately my eight year old Dell laptop has been shutting off even when I have a full battery. I have had to keep it plugged up all the time to keep this from happening. Any idea what is causing this? I replaced the battery about three years ago.
2 Replies · 37 views
arlo
A recalibration might be needed. Even if it shows full, the individual cells may have become unbalaced. And the BMS chip in the battery reports false information to the pc.
Try this. Start it up in the bios/uefi and leave it there until the battery dies and it shuts off.
It might just keep running longer than in Windows. Or run for a short while and shut off.
If it's the first case. Probably just needs a balancing. If the latter, the pack might just be dead.
Not throwing stones but perhaps just a cheaply constructed battery with substandard cells. Could be.

Patience. Keep restarting it in bios/uefi until it won't fire up anymore.
Then plug the charger in and let it complete a full charge. And see what happens. If it's better.
Do the same thing one more time. Run it until it dies dead-dead. Then just let it charge, pc shut off.
When charged, it might be better. It might not be.

There are bench jigs that read the actual BMS and override it to let a tech manually monitor and charge the separate packs. They can also reset any "time bombs" in it that cause an otherwise good pack to show bad.
Maybe Santa will be good to me some year.

You might just need a new battery. Maybe the PC power management chip is going. A Dell common thing.
Leaving a laptop plugged in with a full battery is known to reduce the life. Asus for one recommends that you don't leave the charger plugged in all of the time even when shut down. And setting Windows to charge the battery to 85% instead of 100% increases life.
That's all I got.
dishstaller
That's all I got.
That was quite enough....I definitely learned something from your post. Thanks
TRG
TRG
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in Computers and Gadgets
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
5 Replies · 276 views
b4pjoe
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
If you can't get into the router to reserve an IP address just don't use DHCP on the device that needs connected and assign it to a specific IP address in the network settings.
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HipKat
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
They are not. Your best bet is to set up a third-party router, attached to the Starlink for your server, that you can get into, like a Linksys, etc
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Foxbat
…it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
The Starlink V5 Install Kit I just got comes with the Mini Router. It is pretty limited in what it can do. For example, it can provide only one IP subnet at a time, no Guest Network, but it does support the pass-thru to a third-party Router. You can also split the Wi-Fi into separate 5 GHz & 2.4 GHz SSIDs to help some IoT devices that don't support 5 GHz bands to work.

The larger Starlink Router that still comes with the V4 Kit does support a Guest Network with separate IPv4 Subnet, but it's $120 from Starlink. And it still won't do DHCP Reservations.
harshness
If you can restrict the DHCP address space to assign addresses to one end of the subnet (i.e. x.x.x.50+), you can manually assign the IP address on pretty much any operating system. This is a default behavior on several popular routers. As the Router Mini only supports 235 devices, I expect that's already done.

Another option is to use a router that supports PoE to power the antenna. This article discusses that option (under PoE Power heading):

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Foxbat
Now that I've had the v5 kit with the Mini Router, it's not as bad as I first thought. Yes, no DHCP reservations, but you can set up multiple SSIDs that have separate IPv4 subnets, and like the big brother, you can select from 192.168.x.0/24 or 10.x.0.0/16 (where "x" is 1-4).

You can also split a subnet and have different SSIDs for the 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz channels to handle some IoT devices. I haven't discovered what subnet the 2nd NIC on the router assigns, I'm guessing it's the first subnet.
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
2 Replies · 45 views
dishstaller
Sorry for posting the wrong link. Just corrected it.
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Terrible tragedy. You would think that they would have safe guards in place that would prevent something like this from happening. I guess if you are going to ride in a passenger train it might be best to get a car near the rear.

2 Replies · 49 views
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Jimbo
Terrible tragedy. You would think that they would have safe guards in place that would prevent something like this from happening. I guess if you are going to ride in a passenger train it might be best to get a car near the rear.

They will have to look at the switching sections to determine WHY 2 trains were on the same track ... at the same time.
dishstaller
Thought this article might be of interest to some of you who might travel via train.