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Stuart Sweet
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Pub Member / Supporter Cutting Edge
· posted in The Solid Signal Blog
You hear us saying it over and over again: If you're hooking up cable or satellite, stay away from cables with molded ends. If an installer comes and sees you using them, he'll replace them on the spot. When people come to our live chat or call us on the phone with problems, that's one of the first things we'll suggest replacing. If someone sends us a picture of a cable and it looks like the one you see above, we always tell them it's no good.

Why all the hatred?


So why all the hatred for these cables? Could molded plastic really make that much of a difference? Yes and no… when you see cables with molded ends, you know they're not designed to be used for high-bandwidth applications like cable and satellite. They may work for a little while, but eventually they'll disappoint you. Often times it's not even the molded end that will let you down… that's just the easiest way to tell an inferior cable. Here are some reasons to avoid those pre-made cables from home stores:

The molded ends do actually give less shielding.


A proper compression connector is waterproof and provides a little extra shielding from stray RF signals. A molded end could crack and let water in, and that plastic isn't going to help with interference.

People say, "if the whole thing is one piece of molded plastic, how could that be worse than a compression fitting?" The issue is the way it's made. If I could be confident that the connector were made to the highest standards, I'd say yes the molded one would be better. But, connectors with molded ends usually have very weak metal on them and there's not enough shielding provided for the outer braid of the cable.

In order to use satellite TV, you need really good cable.


Unlike antenna TV, the cables used for satellite carry a signal all the way up to 2150MHz frequencies, Not every cable is designed to give a clean transmission at those frequencies, and there are no satellite-approved cables with molded ends, so any cable with molded ends isn't certified to work with satellite TV. Most cheap cables are only tested to about 1000MHz meaning that you just don't know how they'll perform at higher frequencies. It's worth pointing out that pretty much all the signal that's coming down from a satellite dish is at frequencies higher than 1000MHz.

They probably have more loss than satellite-approved cables.


Most cables you get at home stores conform to the RG59 standard for how much shielding they have and the size of the dielectric foam inside them. That means you won't be able to go as far without reception problems. Even if they say they conform to the RG6 standard, they probably don't. Truth is there's really no enforcement of those standards.

For satellite, you need a solid copper center conductor.


In order to use satellite TV or even to use an antenna amplifier, you need a solid copper center conductor. Only solid copper can carry the voltage needed for these systems. Most inexpensive cables use copper-clad steel for the center conductor. Even if that seems to work for a short time, you'll soon be disappointed. It won't work for long. Even the tiniest scratch in the center conductor can stop the flow of power.

At the end of the day, getting the right cable from Solid Signal isn't a lot more expensive and it's a sure way to make sure you're getting the quality that you need.

Still not sure what cable is best? Do you have other questions? Are you looking at upgrading? There's an easy way to get all your questions answered. Solid Signal isn't your normal online retailer. We have a full staff of techs in our Detroit-area offices. We don't use overseas call centers. Our folks don't read from scripts. We specialize on giving excellent customer service.

Find out more about the Solid Signal difference. Call us at 888-233-7563 during East Coast business hours. Or, use the chat button at the lower right of this page. If it's after hours, fill out the form below. We'll get right back to you!


The post What's wrong with cables with molded ends? appeared first on The Solid Signal Blog.

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Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68657 Replies · 2680157 views
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sdfntx
I Care About Detroit - Smokey Robinson & the Miracles
dishstaller
I Wanna Talk About Me - Toby Keith
Bobby
98.6 - Keith
harshness
I'm Easy - Keith Carridine
gms49ers
It's Easy - Boston
R
Last reply · posted in Computers and Gadgets
Lately my eight year old Dell laptop has been shutting off even when I have a full battery. I have had to keep it plugged up all the time to keep this from happening. Any idea what is causing this? I replaced the battery about three years ago.
2 Replies · 37 views
arlo
A recalibration might be needed. Even if it shows full, the individual cells may have become unbalaced. And the BMS chip in the battery reports false information to the pc.
Try this. Start it up in the bios/uefi and leave it there until the battery dies and it shuts off.
It might just keep running longer than in Windows. Or run for a short while and shut off.
If it's the first case. Probably just needs a balancing. If the latter, the pack might just be dead.
Not throwing stones but perhaps just a cheaply constructed battery with substandard cells. Could be.

Patience. Keep restarting it in bios/uefi until it won't fire up anymore.
Then plug the charger in and let it complete a full charge. And see what happens. If it's better.
Do the same thing one more time. Run it until it dies dead-dead. Then just let it charge, pc shut off.
When charged, it might be better. It might not be.

There are bench jigs that read the actual BMS and override it to let a tech manually monitor and charge the separate packs. They can also reset any "time bombs" in it that cause an otherwise good pack to show bad.
Maybe Santa will be good to me some year.

You might just need a new battery. Maybe the PC power management chip is going. A Dell common thing.
Leaving a laptop plugged in with a full battery is known to reduce the life. Asus for one recommends that you don't leave the charger plugged in all of the time even when shut down. And setting Windows to charge the battery to 85% instead of 100% increases life.
That's all I got.
dishstaller
That's all I got.
That was quite enough....I definitely learned something from your post. Thanks
TRG
TRG
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in Computers and Gadgets
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
5 Replies · 276 views
b4pjoe
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
If you can't get into the router to reserve an IP address just don't use DHCP on the device that needs connected and assign it to a specific IP address in the network settings.
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HipKat
I set up a music server for my brother a few years ago. It's basically a small headless computer but it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
They are not. Your best bet is to set up a third-party router, attached to the Starlink for your server, that you can get into, like a Linksys, etc
  • Like
Reactions: Foxbat
Foxbat
…it needs to have a DHCP IP address reserved for it in the router settings. This was easy to do in his DSL router. He's switching to Starlink now and I was wondering if these setting are easily accessible in the Starlink router. I'm pretty sure he will be getting the latest V5 router.
The Starlink V5 Install Kit I just got comes with the Mini Router. It is pretty limited in what it can do. For example, it can provide only one IP subnet at a time, no Guest Network, but it does support the pass-thru to a third-party Router. You can also split the Wi-Fi into separate 5 GHz & 2.4 GHz SSIDs to help some IoT devices that don't support 5 GHz bands to work.

The larger Starlink Router that still comes with the V4 Kit does support a Guest Network with separate IPv4 Subnet, but it's $120 from Starlink. And it still won't do DHCP Reservations.
harshness
If you can restrict the DHCP address space to assign addresses to one end of the subnet (i.e. x.x.x.50+), you can manually assign the IP address on pretty much any operating system. This is a default behavior on several popular routers. As the Router Mini only supports 235 devices, I expect that's already done.

Another option is to use a router that supports PoE to power the antenna. This article discusses that option (under PoE Power heading):

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Foxbat
Now that I've had the v5 kit with the Mini Router, it's not as bad as I first thought. Yes, no DHCP reservations, but you can set up multiple SSIDs that have separate IPv4 subnets, and like the big brother, you can select from 192.168.x.0/24 or 10.x.0.0/16 (where "x" is 1-4).

You can also split a subnet and have different SSIDs for the 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz channels to handle some IoT devices. I haven't discovered what subnet the 2nd NIC on the router assigns, I'm guessing it's the first subnet.
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
2 Replies · 45 views
dishstaller
Sorry for posting the wrong link. Just corrected it.
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Terrible tragedy. You would think that they would have safe guards in place that would prevent something like this from happening. I guess if you are going to ride in a passenger train it might be best to get a car near the rear.

2 Replies · 49 views
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Reactions: Jimbo
Jimbo
Terrible tragedy. You would think that they would have safe guards in place that would prevent something like this from happening. I guess if you are going to ride in a passenger train it might be best to get a car near the rear.

They will have to look at the switching sections to determine WHY 2 trains were on the same track ... at the same time.
dishstaller
Thought this article might be of interest to some of you who might travel via train.