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Thankyou Jimbos, that is all I said. 99 is transmitting locals to several cities. HDTVfanatic thinks 99 is not transmitting HD locals to anyone. We disagree.

texasbrit said:

Thankyou Jimbos, that is all I said. 99 is transmitting locals to several cities. HDTVfanatic thinks 99 is not transmitting HD locals to anyone. We disagree.

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The difference is I have listed proof that that is incorrect.

Sorry you choose to believe with no evidence - others here go for the scientific method which proves my position and your multiple postings of information proven incorrect on this subject continues to show where the evidence lies.

You can believe God is a Goat for all I care. Just don't try to sell incorrect info to others when evidence exists in this situation to the contrary.

HDTVFanAtic said:

The difference is I have listed proof that that is incorrect.

Sorry you choose to believe with no evidence - others here go for the scientific method which proves my position and your multiple postings of information proven incorrect on this subject continues to show where the evidence lies.

You can believe God is a Goat for all I care. Just don't try to sell incorrect info to others when evidence exists in this situation to the contrary.

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I must have missed it. What proof are you referring to?

raoul5788 said:

I must have missed it. What proof are you referring to?

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You mean texasbrit saying there were no seperate inputs for 99W or 103W on a WB68 until I posted a picture?

Or that fact texasbrit said that H20 have ALWAYS had a software bug that never let them receive anything but T1-6 of 103W when the thread and timestamps show exactly what happened when and where.

Or that fact that texasbrit said that WRAL's problem was the TV stations total reach and not the actual Raleigh DMA and then we get:

http://www.satelliteguys.us/showthread.php?p=797453#post797453

Or the fact that the people that have a clue that have followed the steps I posted have confirmed that their HD-LILs are on 103W T1-6?

And anyone that can use 1/2 a brain (or even 10%) and figure out that if there were 2 working satellites that WRAL could be put on 2 spotbeams to fill in the portion of their DMA that they cannot cover - instead of claiming that a large portion of their DMA is just SOL?

HDTVFanAtic said:

You mean texasbrit saying there were no seperate inputs for 99W or 103W on a WB68 until I posted a picture?

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You might want to check out page 5 of the WB68 instructions at http://www.hometech.com/pdf/gc-wb68.pdf which shows the cabling between a Ka/Ku dish, it says "Each of these 4 cables can go into any one of the 4 LNB connectors.".

HDTVFanAtic said:

And anyone that can use 1/2 a brain (or even 10%) and figure out that if there were 2 working satellites that WRAL could be put on 2 spotbeams to fill in the portion of their DMA that they cannot cover - instead of claiming that a large portion of their DMA is just SOL?

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Maybe someone with 3/4 of a brain decided that it wasn't worth it to burn two spot beams to carry two channels in a DMA at this time just because the stations owners said all or nothing?

rad said:

You might want to check out page 5 of the WB68 instructions at http://www.hometech.com/pdf/gc-wb68.pdf which shows the cabling between a Ka/Ku dish, it says "Each of these 4 cables can go into any one of the 4 LNB connectors.".

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As noted, it doesn't matter which cable OUT of the Ka/Ku Dish you use. IT DOES MATTER WHICH INPUT YOU USE if you want 99W or 103W.

Or to put it in simple terms for you, it doesn't matter which electrical outlet in my house I plug my TV into. However, the TV better be on the other end of the cord as the TV isn't going to operate if the coffee pot is on the other end.

rad said:

Maybe someone with 3/4 of a brain decided that it wasn't worth it to burn two spot beams to carry two channels in a DMA at this time just because the stations owners said all or nothing?

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As you are operating at less than full capacity, like D*, you fail to recognize that if they were operating transponders on 103W and 99W there would not be an issue running less than 250 HD-LILs at this time and no more capacity.

HDTVFanAtic said:

As noted, it doesn't matter which cable OUT of the Ka/Ku Dish you use. IT DOES MATTER WHICH INPUT YOU USE if you want 99W or 103W.

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From what I've seen you just plain want to ignore anything that says you are wrong. The instructions clearly say it doesn't matter which of the four cable from the AU/AT-9 go into which of the four inputs on the WB68, it's only 72.5 and 95 that have to go to the correct inputs. So just go on believing what you want, fine by me.

rad said:

From what I've seen you just plain want to ignore anything that says you are wrong. The instructions clearly say it doesn't matter which of the four cable from the AU/AT-9 go into which of the four inputs on the WB68, it's only 72.5 and 95 that have to go to the correct inputs. So just go on believing what you want, fine by me.

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HDTVfanAtic is saying that it doesnt matter what cable comes out of the AT-9 the only things that matter are what ports your using on the WB68. If you disconnect the cables for 101/99 then the WB68 will no longer pass the signals from the AT-9 for the 101/99 thru to your reciever.

MakeShift said:

HDTVfanAtic is saying that it doesnt matter what cable comes out of the AT-9 the only things that matter are what ports your using on the WB68. If you disconnect the cables for 101/99 then the WB68 will no longer pass the signals from the AT-9 for the 101/99 thru to your reciever.

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OK, from looking at the instruction manual for bot the AT-9 and the WB68 I don't see anywhere that it says a specific cable from the AT-9 MUST go to a specific port on the WB68.

On the AT-9 there are two LNB assemblies on it, one for 99/101/103 and the second for 110/119, see http://www.solidsignal.com/manuals/AT9_install_manual.pdf

On the WB68's instructions at http://www.hometech.com/pdf/gc-wb68.pdf on page 7 it says just hook for lines from the AT-9 to the WB68, doesn't say a specific cable needs to go to a specific port on the WB68. I've had two of these things installed and the installed didn't mark any cables or ton out which was which, just connected all four cables.


Now if you disconnect one of the cable yep you're going to be loosing some channels. If D* is doing the same thing with this new dish and switch you're probably loosing either horizontal or vertical polarization transponders from either the Ka or Ku band satellites.

rad said:

OK, from looking at the instruction manual for bot the AT-9 and the WB68 I don't see anywhere that it says a specific cable from the AT-9 MUST go to a specific port on the WB68.

On the AT-9 there are two LNB assemblies on it, one for 99/101/103 and the second for 110/119, see http://www.solidsignal.com/manuals/AT9_install_manual.pdf

On the WB68's instructions at http://www.hometech.com/pdf/gc-wb68.pdf on page 7 it says just hook for lines from the AT-9 to the WB68, doesn't say a specific cable needs to go to a specific port on the WB68. I've had two of these things installed and the installed didn't mark any cables or ton out which was which, just connected all four cables.


Now if you disconnect one of the cable yep you're going to be loosing some channels. If D* is doing the same thing with this new dish and switch you're probably loosing either horizontal or vertical polarization transponders from either the Ka or Ku band satellites.

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Your still missing it. When you use the WB68 you negate the built in switch in the AT9, you are simply filling the WB68 with signal and then the WB68 filters the signals and directs them to your receiver. If you unplug the cable for the 101 sat on your WB68 then when your receiver goes to look for any of the transponders on the 101 sat your WB68 will look for the appropriate port and then forward the signal from there, and thus if there is no cable in the 101/99 then there will be no signal.

MakeShift said:

HDTVfanAtic is saying that it doesnt matter what cable comes out of the AT-9 the only things that matter are what ports your using on the WB68. If you disconnect the cables for 101/99 then the WB68 will no longer pass the signals from the AT-9 for the 101/99 thru to your reciever.

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Exactly.

If people don't understand how a WB68 works, no wonder they can't figure out that both satellites are currently not delivering HD-LIL

Input #1 of the WB68 has 101W and 99W 13v stacked on it
Input #2 of the WB68 has 101W and 99W 18v stacked on it.
D* has always taken the 110W transponders at 28-30-32 and converted them to transponders 8-10-12 and inserted them on 119W
Input #3 of the WB68 has 119W and 103W 13v stacked on it.
Input #4 of the WB68 has 119W and 103W 18v stacked on it.

It does not mater how those connector are run to the AT9/AU9. 1 can go to 1 - or 1 can go to 4 on the AT9/AU9.

However, if you unplug Input #1 and Input #2 of the WB68, you WILL NOT RECEIVE 101W OR 99W NO MATTER THAT INPUT #3 AND INPUT #4 ARE STILL ACTIVE AS THAT PORT WILL ONLY TAKE 119W AND 103W INPUT - and that WILL NOT ALLOW 101W OR 99W TO PASS.

Unplugging Input #3 and #4 on the WB68 WILL DISCONNECT 110/119 and 103W FROM YOUR SYSTEM. THEY WILL NOT COME IN ON INPUT 1 OR INPUT 2 of the WB68 no matter where you connect that RG6 to the AT9/AU9.

Thank god the new junior members get it and the old members can't grasp the obvious.

After installing the Slimline AU9, my H20 receiver says the 99 sat network 10 failed. Don't I need the 99 satellite or 103 satelltie spot beam to receive the Houston High Def locals? I get no signal on either, but the 101 A, 119 B, and 110 C get good signals. The H20 receiver says I'm getting 4 of the 5 satellites. I used the Acutrac 22 Pro meter to set up the dish for Dtv.

kingair said:

After installing the Slimline AU9, my H20 receiver says the 99 sat network 10 failed. Don't I need the 99 satellite or 103 satelltie spot beam to receive the Houston High Def locals? I get no signal on either, but the 101 A, 119 B, and 110 C get good signals. The H20 receiver says I'm getting 4 of the 5 satellites. I used the Acutrac 22 Pro meter to set up the dish for Dtv.

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Are you getting your locals in hd from D*? If so, that's all that really matters.