722 Modulator Question
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the 722k has an option in the menus for "distribution" rather than direct connect on the RF menus.. it was my understanding that was for a hotter output since it might be going to more than one TV ... I could be wrong though... and don't know if the non-K receiver offers that option either..
tv2 modulator can give great results over quality cable vs ch3 ota modual. menu 6-1-5 and turn on tv1 modulation. If you must use Ch 3 you can get an adjustable 10db amp and pump up the juice prior to hitting your long cable run.
Some 722k and 222k will not modulate tv1 and others will its a known issue but unknown if its due to failed hardware or alternate components used in every model requiring custom software for each hardware with the same model number
Some 722k and 222k will not modulate tv1 and others will its a known issue but unknown if its due to failed hardware or alternate components used in every model requiring custom software for each hardware with the same model number
All my wiring is Quad RG6 homerun to a utility closet which is where all the recievers are (722k's). Every TV has it's own run of cable except the Kitchen which is split with the Laundry room. That is modulated on channel 3 and I tried channel 4 but it's a little noisy so I thought I'd try the built-in modulator hoping it was amplified. I set it to "Home Distribution" and tried a few channels 21 and higher but they don't seem to show up. Maybe it has that issue you mentioned.
You mentioned noise on the line. There could be something simple going on here. What is the highest channels the TVs experiencing the noise will go to currently (without changing settings)?
Actually TG2 is correct. The output of the Home Distribution or TV2 on other models is indeed going out amplified to allow for distance and splitting of the signal. In addition, a 10db attenuator is provided with all these models when in its original (not RMA) packaging to remedy common issues when the 2nd TV is much closer to TV1 than most installations. In fact, this forum has had several posts regarding such problems that the attenuator solved.
So, KAB, please don't be offended and feel you have to flame on the forum. I would never be so petty or crass or just plain lacking in tact, as to explicitly state that you are "wrong" (as some do), I am just stating the TG2 is correct.
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If you read the above posts, and mine, more closely, there is no "optional/additional" amplification. No menu selection to control it.
Oh, dear, here we go:
Well, had you read a little more closely, TG2 never explicitly said there was an option that shut off some built-in amplifier that someone (first intials "K"; last "B"
) conjured from the ether. TG2 was trying to best communicate the difference between the Ch. 3 output and what he referred to as the TV2 output, but on other boxes is the Home Distribution output that takes the place of the TV2 output (please don't beat-up on TG2's imprecision, as we are all guilty of that and are supposed be offering insights "among friends" not in pre-law class with some forum member as the self-anointed professor). TG2's over all point was that he believed there was a difference in the output of Ch.3 and TV2/Home Distribution outputs in regards to signal strength, and on that point he is correct. The Ch.3 output is not amplified, but the TV2/Home Distribution is.Now, you could have pointed that out to our dear friend TG2 in a more elegant manner, but that would have been too helpful and kind for someone who enjoys telling someone he is "wrong." We all add our two cents, and we all stand ready to be corrected and educated in a manner consistant in what Scott has titled "our friendly forums," but it seems some of us are not so friendly compared to others.
So, TG2, I get your point, and I'm here to clarify that Ch3, is not amplified but TV2/Home Distribution is, but others have suggested that you were referring to a menu option to control the amplification of the output. If you were, then I have to say that there is no option in the menu, however, you inference as to Dish providing some "control" is CORRECT. That control is in the form of a 10db attenuator provided with the original (not RMA) packaging. If the attenuator did not come with the box, then one can purchase on at the appropriate brick and mortar or internet store. TG2, your contribution was generally correct and helped us down the right direction. The rest of us are always here to help and clarify anyone's contribution in a manner at least equal to your post, which was a very friendly one that was from someone doing their best to help. Thanks.
I can't get the 722 to modulate to any channels other than 3 or 4 on the TV 1 output so I can't answer that question. I'll try working on it again later today. Just re-read your post, and I have the problem on all of my sat channels if that's what you're asking.
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OK, let's review. The 722K home distribution output is intended for TV2, not TV1. The OTA module has nothing to do with it.
Edit: I was incorrect about TV1 out on the module, but can't understand the usefulness of it, unless you have a HD receiver with no HDTV or using a VCR.
Edit: I was incorrect about TV1 out on the module, but can't understand the usefulness of it, unless you have a HD receiver with no HDTV or using a VCR.
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Just to make sure we are on the same page.... The channel 3/4 out is on the OTA module. The Home distribution outlet (which uses UHF channels) is separate and at the bottom of the receiver near the middle. Pick any two UHF channels that do not have a local TV station broadcasting on them. In dual mode you can watch either TV1 or TV2, in single mode they are of course both the same. Tune your TV to either of these channels to receive them. The only reason I can think of for the 3/4 channel output is for an old TV or VCR that will not tune the UHF channels????
The home distribution port can be and is used to broadcast to TV1 more than you think. You would be amazed how many people still use a tv with only a coax input.
The internal amp is on by default but can be turned off in the modulator setup screen under the Connection option. There it has the option of Home Distribution or Direct Connect. Only use Direct Connect option if there are no splitters, splices or unusually long cable runs to TV2
The internal amp is on by default but can be turned off in the modulator setup screen under the Connection option. There it has the option of Home Distribution or Direct Connect. Only use Direct Connect option if there are no splitters, splices or unusually long cable runs to TV2
Okay thanks, now I've got it. I thought the RF output from the OTA module is what you use to modulate to other channels. So I hooked up the TV1 to the Home Distribution output, modulated on channel 65, and the picture is much better. So to feed TV1 and TV2, I would use a splitter on the Home Dist. output and modulate TV1 and TV2 on different channels correct?
The tech that originally swapped my 522's a few months ago for these 722k's said I needed the OTA module (with it's RF output) because you can't change the aspect ratio using the home dist setup so that's why he was using that output.
You can modulate from the home distribution jack for TV1.
My question was specific to the TVs themselves, not the receiver. What is the highest channel the TV itself (or TVs with the 'static') will go to? For instance, using the TV remote, if you punch in 125, will the TV go to channel 125, or does it go to 12 or 25. Determining what the setting on the TV is can likely eliminate some things as a cause, and may provide a very simple solution.
Here is what I suggest. If the TV will go to 125, its in STD cable mode. You may find a better picture by changing the TV to air mode. Easiest way to find out, IMHO, is to run a channel scan on the TV. Knowing what channel it 'turns around' at will help us not only determine if a setting can be changed to clear up the picture, but also help us with alternative solutions.
My question was specific to the TVs themselves, not the receiver. What is the highest channel the TV itself (or TVs with the 'static') will go to? For instance, using the TV remote, if you punch in 125, will the TV go to channel 125, or does it go to 12 or 25. Determining what the setting on the TV is can likely eliminate some things as a cause, and may provide a very simple solution.
Here is what I suggest. If the TV will go to 125, its in STD cable mode. You may find a better picture by changing the TV to air mode. Easiest way to find out, IMHO, is to run a channel scan on the TV. Knowing what channel it 'turns around' at will help us not only determine if a setting can be changed to clear up the picture, but also help us with alternative solutions.
