811 ota question

lrossnm

SatelliteGuys Family
Original poster
May 17, 2004
80
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Santa Fe, NM.
I am currently running my ota signal from my antenna through the satellite cable to my 811. Would I be better off running a separate line from the antenna to the 811? Would that improve the picture?
 
Are you currently using diplexers to merge the satellite and OTA antenna feeds? If so, then the diplexer does introduce some RF loss on both the satellite and the OTA side. It depends on the quality of diplexer, but a typical loss rating is 0.5 dB for VHF/UHF and 1.5 dB for satellite freqs (that's for each unit, so multiply x 2). While most applications can withstand this, a 2-3 dB loss in a fringe condition can mean everything. So the answer is YES/MAYBE as to whether your picture will be improved.
 
For the best signal and PQ from OTA, run a separate RG-6 coax line from your OTA antenna to your STB or TV. Make the run as short as possible and minimize the use of connectors, splitters, etc. Personnally, I stay away from interfacing OTA signals with DBS signals. Robs signal strength and can introduce inteference.
 
Improve Picture ?

I thought that being as the signal is digital it doesn't make any difference if there's a loss in signal strength. Isn't the picture quality the same at a 70% signal as it is at 100%? :confused:
 
new_to_hdtv said:
I thought that being as the signal is digital it doesn't make any difference if there's a loss in signal strength. Isn't the picture quality the same at a 70% signal as it is at 100%? :confused:
Yes, the signal is digital, but I think the problem is that below 70%, some of the digital bits are getting lost in the RF noise. At that point, you start getting dropouts.
 
The only problem with losing a couple of dB on the satellite feed is that your rain fade susceptibility goes up. That is, you will lose your picture slightly more often in the presence of heavy rain/thunderstorms that if you did not have the additional diplexer loss. With the exception of rain/precip, satellite reception usually has plenty of signal margin.

For OTA reception, it's more tricky. If you are at or near the threshold of stable digital reception due to signal strength, a couple dB loss could make all the difference and cause excessive dropouts. But if your limiting problem is being caused by multipath, then more signal loss could have no appeciable effect. In fact, it might even help some.
 
How are you getting the OTA connection to the receiver using the one line from Dish Network switch?

I'm assuming that you have the SW21 switch, which unfortunatley doesn't have a OTA port to combine that connection with the Dishes, so that there is one line running to the receiver.

I just had Dish installed and I was told that if I wanted OTA I would have to run another separate line to the receiver since the Dish line was to be uninterrupted.

But if you were able to get OTA on one line, can you please let me know how you did it?

Dan
 
lrossnm said:
I am currently running my ota signal from my antenna through the satellite cable to my 811. Would I be better off running a separate line from the antenna to the 811? Would that improve the picture?
And let's not forget the possibility that the antenna maybe amplified... If it requires 12V, you run a second line, and you're using an 811, you will have to invest in a power injector because the OTA antenna-in on this receiver does not supply the line w/ 12V. For this reason, and the difficulty installing a second run, I got a combiner that also passes 12V to the antenna in from the SAT in connection… What's your exact situation?
 
pipman said:
How are you getting the OTA connection to the receiver using the one line from Dish Network switch?

I'm assuming that you have the SW21 switch, which unfortunatley doesn't have a OTA port to combine that connection with the Dishes, so that there is one line running to the receiver.

I just had Dish installed and I was told that if I wanted OTA I would have to run another separate line to the receiver since the Dish line was to be uninterrupted.

But if you were able to get OTA on one line, can you please let me know how you did it?

Dan
Again, it depends if your OTA antenna needs 12V… If the antenna is not amplified, you just use diplexers (and a splitter if you have more than one HD receiver). If it is amplified, you can get a Winegard DP-3020 combiner directly from Winegard. Connection as per the diagram (complements of joverstr2)…
 

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With the OTA digital signal, the reading you call signal strength is more a signal quality measure. It has to do with the error rate in reading the digital signal. This is more complex than just losing a dB or so. RF interference can degrade the signal quality/increase the error rate to the point that you will see interference on the screen even though the signal is locked or you may just start dropping below locking level and see dropouts.

This is a common occurrence with multi-path situations. Usually there is plenty of signal strength, but the receiver can't differentiate the two or more identical signals, so the error rate goes up and your signal quality measure drops below lock or you get dropouts. If you see the signal measure showing a strong signal, but it jumps erratically more than about 10 points every few seconds, you have a signal quality problem. Either multi-path or some other interference.
 
I do have a Channel Master amp on the antenna but it does not have it's own power supply. I was using the power from my old 6000 to run it. Does the 811 work in the same way? I had dish hook up the 811.

Thanks for all the feedback.
 
lrossnm said:
I do have a Channel Master amp on the antenna but it does not have it's own power supply. I was using the power from my old 6000 to run it. Does the 811 work in the same way? I had dish hook up the 811.

Thanks for all the feedback.
I’m confused as to how you could have powered the amp AND have a diplexed line (no matter the receiver). I’m not familiar with the 6000 but I do know that the 811 does not have any power on the OTA antenna-in (which is irrelevant if you were using diplexers which would have blocked the 12V anyway). Any chance you are using power passing diplexers?

So you either run a second line and buy a power injector, or you do what I suggested above with the DP-3020…
 

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