Aiming 1000.2 Tips?

larsh74

SatelliteGuys Family
Original poster
May 14, 2006
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Does anyone have any tips on how to aim the 1000.2 dish? With the 1000 dish I used a DP LNB and peaked on 119 and then put the DPP LNB on. With the 1000.2 it does not seem possible to put a DP LNB on the bracket. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
Well, you can cover two of the lnbfs with foil so you are sure that you are picking up the right sat on the right lnbf.
 
I think the bigger issue is the amperage draw the new LNB is going to have. Most sat meters won't handle such a load.

The tin foil method is fine, most techs that have worked more than a few days in the field generally don't have to do that. It just comes down to having the correct skew and elevation dialed in. Not to mention a plumb mast.

My understanding is that there is also a W bracket that is optional for the 1000.2. There will be instances where 3 DP duals are going to be needed. If aiming is an issue, just simply put one of those brackets on...aim using the 119 (or 129 as a lot of people seem to do), and then replace said bracket with the default one.
 
From the book I read on it, it says tune off the 119 and leave it. On a Dish 1000, I tune off the 119 then lock the azimuth adjustment down, then peak the elevation off the 129.

As webbydude says, plumb mast is key.

I am concerned about the amperage draw myself, as my dual buddy wont work on DPP LNBF.

It'll be nice if it comes with a W bracket, but probably somewhat time consuming at first messing with the bracket.
 
I suppose that I will need to get a W bracket as webbydude mentioned. The 1000.2 that we will use this weekend did not come with that bracket. Anyone know where I can get my hands on one of those?

Webbydude, have you installed the 1000.2? If so, how did you or anyone else that has experience aim this dish?
 
Aiming wasn't anymore difficult than the standard 1000 (just did my 1st one this weekend, matter of fact). As Rcdallas stated, it's a PITA to swap between the W-bracket and the normal LNB bracket. Next time I have another 1000.2, I'm going to make it point to simply try my SatBuddy or Accutrac (I carry both on my truck) and see if I'm able to just aim with the new LNB.
 
I have done a couple, and even using two different meters. I found best to peak on 119 and then hook to 118 and tweak a little more. I use a birdog and a reg channelmaster Analog meter.
 
Aiming wasn't anymore difficult than the standard 1000 (just did my 1st one this weekend, matter of fact). As Rcdallas stated, it's a PITA to swap between the W-bracket and the normal LNB bracket. Next time I have another 1000.2, I'm going to make it point to simply try my SatBuddy or Accutrac (I carry both on my truck) and see if I'm able to just aim with the new LNB.

As long as they produce enough power:

“NOTE: If the peaking meter does not produce enough power (at least 600 mA) to the DISH 1000.2 Integrated DPP LNBF, attach a W-bracket and DP/DPP Dual or Legacy dual to 119 and peak using a meter.”
 
I use the Super Buddy and I find it very easy to setup the new Dish 1000.2 because this meter can handle the power req. to connect straight to it. This meter was defently worth it's cost. (around $700.00 ) Good luck!
 
Nope. Last I looked into it, it couldn't handle the draw. (birdog)

Super Buddy's would be ideal, trouble shooting is a plus, enter the zip, give the settings but large and bulky taking 10 seconds to turn on definately not for installing 500/1000/Plus.

I think it has enough power capability to power a DPP44. Nice.
 
Perhaps I'm mistaken, but I thought the 1000.2 LNB was all pre-switched, so you couldn't just 'peak in using 119'. Unless there are options for the LNB bracket... You're peaking on all three regardless of the port. I've heard that within the last six months or so ALL Sat Buddies sold have the upgrade so that they can power DPPs. I just peaked in my first 1000.2 recently using my Sat Buddy (single) and it worked fine. Excellent siginal on all birds first try. You can send your sat buddy in for the upgrade for like $20 if it's an older one (a year or more older).
 
You don't need the W bracket in order to peak the 1000.2. Instead, you can power the lnb by connecting a cable from an installed receiver to port 1 and your meter to port two. This will still peak off of 119 since a check switch has not been run and the lnb cannot see multiple sats yet.

You can also connect the powered cable to the Sat port on the meter and connect the Lnb port on your meter to port 1 of the triple lnb.

Also, the triple lnb needs 600mA to be powered, so a SuperSat Buddy would definitely work. I believe other meters that produce less power would work for a short period of time. The main concern here is draining the battery on the meter extremely fast.
 
You don't need the W bracket in order to peak the 1000.2. Instead, you can power the lnb by connecting a cable from an installed receiver to port 1 and your meter to port two. This will still peak off of 119 since a check switch has not been run and the lnb cannot see multiple sats yet.

A check switch doesn't do anything to an LNB. It's a reciever configuration function. The LNB always sees what it sees, and LNBs that are switched will always be switched together with or without a reciever telling them to be so. So if you plug in your meter to a Sat Port on a DP34, and peak in a SD then you'll be peaking in on all three sats simultaneously.

At least, that's my understanding... ?
 
The way I understand it is that the port to the left on any twin,quad,triple is always connected to the part of the lnb that should receive 119. This port will only see one sat when connected to the meter, and it needs to be aimed at 119 in order for the other sats such as 110 or 129 to be received.

What I would do if trying to peak a dish at the DP34 is use the 119 input cable to the switch and plug that into your meter. I don't know of a way that you can peak multiple sats simultaneously off of 1 cable. My guess is that if you plugged the meter into a receiver port on the 34, you would only see 1 sat but not know which one.

By peaking 119, you will get the best signal possible for the other sats pulled in by the dish.
 
here's the lick, I know this will sound a little backwards
but if you don't have a super buddy then you'll have to attach a receiver inside the house,from your input, attach that line to port 2 (110) port and tune the dish from port 1 (119) on an upgrade, just make sure there is a receiver plugged in. this is done to power the lnb. the lnb has a swicth in it that nees to be powered to work, just like your 44 switch
 
From the book I read on it, it says tune off the 119 and leave it. On a Dish 1000, I tune off the 119 then lock the azimuth adjustment down, then peak the elevation off the 129.

As webbydude says, plumb mast is key.

I am concerned about the amperage draw myself, as my dual buddy wont work on DPP LNBF.

It'll be nice if it comes with a W bracket, but probably somewhat time consuming at first messing with the bracket.

rcdallas, it would be worth having your Dual Buddy upgraded. For $39, we'll update the circuitry and put our improved new style F-connector assembly on your meter. Then it will work fine with the Dish Pro Plus stuff, but as others have mentioned, if you're going to use it for that, we recommend that you power the meter from the receiver because the battery drains so quick with these current hogs. The Super Buddy will last a long time and will power the Dish 1000.2s and Dish Pro Plus units for about 45 minutes or so continuous.

Thanks.
 

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