Asc1 Not Moving West

[Titanium]

Hi all,

Just an FYI...
I reversed the m1 and m2 wires in back of the asc1 and when I pressed west, it still moved east.
First time I did this it didn't move either way.

John

OK, so the initial problem that you reported was that the dish would not move West and displayed an error. After testing, we know that the ASC1 West Drive circuit does not have defect.

With the wires still swapped (reversed), if you press the East button, does the dish move West?

 

[JFOK]

Hi all,

I went out to the dish a short time ago and disconnected the motor.
I then went back into the house to the asc1 and after doing a global reset once again just to be sure, pressed the West button. The motor error showed up. I then pressed the east button and the motor proceeded to move east with the count going up.
I'll try the wire swap again shortly.

John

 

[JFOK]

Hi all,

Well I switched the m1 and m2 wires in back of the asc1 and when I pressed the west button it showed error unlike my test yesterday when it moved east. The east button worked as it should with climbing numbers.
I would have thought the opposite would have occurred. Very confused here.

John

 

[JFOK]

Hi all,

Unprofessionally speaking I think I can rule out the motor It spins and the satellite arm, as it turns when I twist the end.

John

 

[Titanium]

I am confused by the testing process and reported results.

I'll go with the others and suggest that you unmount and bring the actuator inside to the ASC1. Connect the M1/M2 and S1/S2/shield with short jumper cables and test East / West movement.

 

[arlo]

Okay. It's time to be very clear.
You pulled the motor to see rotation. Correctly wired the motor will only turn in one direction?
You swap the wires and it will only turn the other way?
No matter how the motor is wired, every time you press the West button, the motor will not turn and you get the error?
Sounds like a bad relay in the ASC-1.
Do you hear a definite CLICK in the ASC-1 when you press the E-W buttons?
But....Please take the motor and put a length of hookup wire in the motor power terminals.
Touch each wire to a 12 volt battery's + and - post.
Does the motor spin in one direction?
Reverse the wires on the battery posts.
Does the motor spin in the other direction?
How far are the limit switch cams away from the limit switches?
If you have any issues understanding this, get right back please.

 

[primestar31]

I think we have a case of "too many cooks" here, and this is all dragging on way too long, and OP is just getting more confused by the moment.

Arlo, I know you mean well, but in all respect I highly suggest you and the rest of us now leave this between JFOK (John) and Titanium (Brian) to finish troubleshooting.

 

[arlo]

Jesus. You all jumped in and got this guy conflusterated in the first place.
I AM the cook here. If it weren't for me a lot of folks would be told that they need to go and buy a new actuator and dish mover.
#1 I suggested that he removed the motor to check for actuator balkiness.
#2 I asked if he could check for possible motor/geartrain failure and testing uncoupled from the ball screw actuator with no-load applied.
#3 The battery idea was good. Prior to hauling a battery out to the dish and splicing wires, the motor off the actuator and having somebody hit E-W would at least prove it was operable and that the ball screw wasn't hindering it.
#4 In this day and age a little mechanical/electrical expertise is needed in this "Hobby". The day of an installation and satellite dish guy around the corner is slim. So you have to have a little intuition. Pull the motor, make sure your actuator shaft isn't frozen or binding so much it's not capable of pushing the dish up in the air and the motor isn't over torqued.
#5 Now we have a situation where the motor when controlled by the boat anchor will only respond to one button press.
Next is to hook it up directly to a known, unswitched DC power source and reverse the motor leads to see if it's capable of going in both directions.
Sorry guys. Once the basics were taken care of, the ASC-1, motor, ball screw could be isolated for issues.
My suggestion for a meter. Get an analog (needle) meter from Lowes or H-D. Don't confuse the guy trying to watch digital pulses when the controller times out from a no-pulse detect.
Later. Good luck!

 

[JFOK]

Hi all,

I really appreciate all the responses.
Brian...I am just as confused as you are with the differing outcomes to the same test. I will bring the actuator inside and test again even though I don't see what the difference is whether the actuator is inside or not. I trust your judgement. However, it will take some time to find the proper wire to use.
Arlo...don't get all worked up. I really appreciate your detailed analysis and suggestions. The actuator shaft moves like a hot knife through butter...very smoothly, just using a screwdriver on the slotted end to turn. We're slowly eliminating causes.
Primestar32 I appreciate your input also.
Thanks again to all. I know with your help I'll figure this out.

John

 

[arlo]

Hi all,

I really appreciate all the responses.
Brian...I am just as confused as you are with the differing outcomes to the same test. I will bring the actuator inside and test again even though I don't see what the difference is whether the actuator is inside or not. I trust your judgement. However, it will take some time to find the proper wire to use.
Arlo...don't get all worked up. I really appreciate your detailed analysis and suggestions. The actuator shaft moves like a hot knife through butter...very smoothly, just using a screwdriver on the slotted end to turn. We're slowly eliminating causes.
Primestar32 I appreciate your input also.
Thanks again to all. I know with your help I figure this out.

John

yeah. time to step back. broken back and surgery monday. happened in feb and covid screwed up getting it sorted out. i try. really try.
i think it's time to head to the holy Icom citadel and seek a little shortwave jesus.
right, bri?

 

[JFOK]

Arlo,

I had back surgery 2 years ago and now have two titanium rods in my back.
Feel 100% better. Good luck with your surgery.
Let me know how it goes if we don't chat before then....and thanks again.

John

 

[JFOK]

Hi all,

The actuator is unhooked and inside.
Once I find some spare wiring, which shouldn't take too long,
I'll test and report back.

John

 

[JFOK]

Hi all,

I wired the actuator motor directly to the asc1 as it should be. The wires were also correctly connected to the actuator motor. When I pressed east, the motor turned to the right. When I reversed the wires on the motor itself and pressed east the motor turned to the left. Both times I pressed west there was just a slight click then the error message. Also both times I pressed east, the numbers climbed even though the motor was moving in the opposite direction.

John

 

[Titanium]

Sounds like the west drive circuit has failed. Thanks for performing the additional troubleshooting indoors to eliminate the distribution.

Drop an email if you wish to have the unit bench tested here at the shop.

 

[JFOK]

Hi Brian,

Thanks for responding.
What could I use in the meantime when the asc1 is with you.
Don't I need it to power the lnbfs ?
Also where would I find your email ?
Been a long time since Ive looked for one here.

John

 

[Titanium]

What do have on your system? LNBF or LNBs with servo? If LNBFs, power them from the STB.

Our contact info is on the Titanium Satellite website.

Hi Brian,

Thanks for responding.
What could I use in the meantime when the asc1 is with you.
Don't I need it to power the lnbfs ?
Also where would I find your email ?
Been a long time since Ive looked for one here.

John

 

[JFOK]

Brian,

I have lnbfs...C and Ku.
So my edision mio can power them ??Great.
I'll send you an email shortly.
Thanks.

John

 

[panth1]

My ASC1 stopped moving west last week as well. No click going west. Wasn't working with two different actuators on short pieces of wire. I ended up giving the two relays some good flicks with my finger. That seamed to unstick the stuck relay (not sure which one on the board) and it's working now. Don't know for how long but we'll see.

I had previously had relay issues with my V-BOX that required them to be replaced so that gave me a clue it could be the relays.

 

[Titanium]

Definately much cheaper to replace them yourself or have a local electronics shop do it. Two way shipping is getting more and more expensive every day.

Unfortunately, a grounded relay makes a good path for voltage potentials, nearby lightning and static discharges.

 

[JFOK]

panth1,

I wonder if that would work for me and for how long ?
Its worth giving it a try, but I'm sure it will have to make a trip out to Brians eventually.
Thanks for responding.

John