Chapparal co-rotor dual c/ku vs. BSC621-2 Universal C/KU BAND SATELLITE FEED HORN LNBF

[egg2004]

I was wonder if anyone out there has had experience with both a HTS Twin Tracker Feed Horn Made by CHAPARRAL(what i refer to as a plain co-rotor ). and a BSC621-2 Universal C/KU BAND SATELLITE FEED HORN LNBF?

I wanted to know which one returns a stronger signal?

I currently have a c/ku band co rotor circular/linear feed (international) with a mesh (6 ft) dish. I have dual lines one for the ku and another for c band. I am using a 4dtv as a master with a pansat 9200 as a slave. I have splitters and a disecq switch inside to have it all come together for reception of both c and ku on both receivers,

I originally had a plain co-rotor with ku/c band and i recently replaced with a co rotor dual c/ku (international) linear/circular feed horn. I noticed some small signal loss when going the the linear/circular and i am thinking of going back (to the plain co rotor), but wanted to know if the BSC621-2 Universal C/KU BAND SATELLITE FEED HORN LNBF is any better. I am guessing not, because its sending both signals down one coaxial line, but I could be wrong about that.

Basically, i need everthing i can get and I wanted to know what would be the best feed horn with minimal signal loss. I appear to have problems with 8psk signals.

Thank you to everyone and all.

 

[chapelrun]

Not exactly what you asked, but this is a very good comparison. He did a very thorough job. Many here have had good success with the BSC621-2.

http://www.satelliteguys.us/fta-mpe...omparison-review-ws-international-dmx741.html

 

[FaT Air]

I appear to have problems with 8psk signals.

Bigger dish would fix that. But careful tweaking on the 6 ft may be beneficial.

co rotor dual c/ku (international) linear/circular feed horn

Remove the dielectric plate for linear polarized(domestic) satellites. Will introduce some loss if left in place.

 

[Magic Static]

The most effective use of your money would be a bigger dish. But if you want to drop a "Big Block Motor" in that Chevy Vega. Score a BullsEye 2 Dual Ortho Feed Horn & 4 LNBs.

 

[egg2004]

Thanks Fat air. Thats my problem. 2 questions though.

1. How do i remove the plate
2. wont that prevent me from recieving domestic (US - canada) signals ? I would rather recieve those than the circular (non domestic ones) or do i misunderstand you?

 

[egg2004]

I have a BullsEye 2 Dual Ortho Feed Horn & 4 LNBs., Perhaps i will swap it out on that dish. But, I really wanted some insight into the others.. Thanks for the info./comments. Its all good...

 

[egg2004]

Thanks for the link. I will take a look. I appreciate it.

 

[FaT Air]

1) remove the cover from the open end of the feed throat. Slide the dielectric plate out. Replace cover. 2) no, the dielectric plate is only required for circular polarized signals.
There's pictures of the dielectric plate inserted in the BSC 621 here http://www.dmsiusa.com/docs/621-manual.pdf
If it's inserted, there's quite a bit of loss on linear signals.

 

[egg2004]

Thanks FAT AIR, but there is a problem. It seems that your response (and the diagram) were relating to a BSC 621. I currently do not own one of those. I was considering it, but you made me think. My current chapparral feed horn contains a dielectric plate (a chapparal co-rotor II +), but i dont know how to remove it. It will not just slide out, there is something like a butterfly nut (but not) on the end of the plate. I believe the whole plate rotates for sqew, I could be wrong about that). If it doesnt move then that nut on the end is there for something. Are you famailiar with the chapparal co-rotor c/ku with a dielectric plate? If so, is it possible to remove the place without damaging it . if so how?

Does ANYONE else have experience with the chapparal co-rotor II+ c/ku dual feed horn?

Thanks again

 

[Magic Static]

I once had a Chapparal BullesEye II that was set for circular C-Band and the dielectric plate was glued in place with some sort of super-glue type stuff. A little twist with the pliers and it's out. A little super glue and it's back in.

 

[egg2004]

Thanks magic static, but what about the thing on the end that looks similiar to a butter fly nut? That too is holding it in place. Also, you mention that yours was a bullseye so you had no moving parts. This has a rotor and I want to be cirtain before i force anything. I think that nut is part of the horn that moves by the rotor for sqewing.

Anyone else?

 

[Magic Static]

Well after reading about it at Chapparal, this unit may do both Linear and Circular with out swapping out the plate.
The Corotor II Plus Feedhorns | Chaparral Satellite Components

 

[egg2004]

Yes. It does do both, but Fat AIR said that having the plate in causes signal lose. I would rather give up the the circular signals in favor or stronger linear signals. So, I am interested in how to remove it, or if its even possible or not with the co-rother II+

 

[egg2004]

Thanks to everyone for their responses, links and suggestions.

Since no one seems to know how to safely remove the dielectric plate from a chapparral co-rotor II+, It would appear that I am back to my original question.


Does anyone have any experience with both the BSC 621 and the a plain chapparral co-rotor (dual ku/c band) for linear (i.e domestic) signals (i.e no dielectric plate installed)? Since i can not finding another solution, I will be in the market for one these. However, I wish to know which would produce the stronger signal. I would think that its the chapparral co-rotor (dual ku/c band), but I thought someone might know for certain.

NOTE: I previously own a plain chapparral co-rotor (dual ku/c band), but I damaged it by using a twig to remove a hornets nest. I broker the piece thats used for skewing between horisontal and vertical. Thats when I replaced it with a co-rotor II+ (linear/circular). So perhaps now you can understand my caution on how to remove the dieletric plate. I wish to be certain and there doesnt seem to be anyone out there who has removed the plate from a chapparal co-rotor II+?

Thank you all

 

[FaT Air]

Being that The Corotor II Plus Feedhorn is indeed designed for simultaneous linear and circular C band, as pointed out by Magic Static, there is no need to remove the dielectric plate. But since you already have a BullsEye 2 Dual Ortho Feed Horn, put that on, it will exhibit the best performance of any LNBF or LNB-feedhorn combination available. If it's still not what you need, performance wise, a bigger dish is in order.

 

[egg2004]

Thanks again FAT Air, but i thought that you said that the plate diminishes the linear signals? Did I mis understand something? The question wasnt how to get a stronger linerar and circular signal, it was related to getting a stronger domestic (linear) signal. And, though it is true about the bullseye feed horn. but that is on another dish. The dish i am refering to (in this thread) has never really given me problems until I started using the Corotor® II+ Wideband C/Ku Band Feedhorn So, i am back to my original quesiton. comparing the 2 feed horns i mentioned (the Corotor® II+ and the BSC621) or how to remove the dielectic plate from the Corotor® II+ Wideband C/Ku Band Feedhorn .

I finally found a earlier thread that answers the qustion about the Corotor® II+ vs the BSC621. However i would still be interested to hear your answer (or anyones) about how to remove the dielectric plate from the Corotor® II+ Wideband C/Ku Band )

Perhaps its me, maybe i mis understand. I was vague in my earlier discription of the 3 feed horns I am referring to . Could you set me straight?

thanks

 

[catamount]

Since it appears you have an international(wideband) feedhorn, which is designed for both linear/circular signals, I would assume it is designed so that it does not come apart! I wouldn't touch it, as it is designed for both. The regular linear feedhorns are designed so that you can insert a plastic/teflon plate to receive circular Cband. Follow Fat Air's advice in post #15

Catamount