coolsat 8000 c band dish

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flashfluud1

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Jul 1, 2009
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ST LOUIS
hey,
I rescued a 8ft fiberglass bud the other day. I think it is a skywalker. Any ideas how you would wire it to a coolsat 8000. The motor has a cable with 6 or 7 wires comming out and going to the reviver and the lnb also runs to the reviver. Do I need to run this into a serial port or something, am i missing a another box of some kind.
Thanks for the help
 
hey,
I rescued a 8ft fiberglass bud the other day. I think it is a skywalker. Any ideas how you would wire it to a coolsat 8000. The motor has a cable with 6 or 7 wires comming out and going to the reviver and the lnb also runs to the reviver. Do I need to run this into a serial port or something, am i missing a another box of some kind.
Thanks for the help

Did you get the receiver with it? If so, you can slave the Coolsat to the analog receiver. You'd just need a one leg power pass splitter or, if it has Ku too, 2 splitters and a DiseqC switch. Then you'd control both position and polarity from the analog receiver.
If you didn't get the receiver, then, you'd either need to get yourself an analog receiver, or get a VBOX type thing to move the dish. It might be easiest to get an lnbf that the Coolsat can control polarity on too. I'm not sure if any of the various VBOX/GBOX things will do polarity yet or not.
 
Only thing you can connect to is the LNB - Kinda!
To control the motor, you need an Analog receiver or a GBox / VBox.
The Coolsat can not control the Polatiry of the feedhorn, for that you also need an Analog receiver or replace it with a Voltage Controlled LNBF.
 
I saw a couple of anolog recivers in a antique shop the other day. should i go buy one to control the dish. The bud has a analog lnbf. Does it need replaced with a digital lnbf?
 
I would setup and align the Dish, connect the Coolsat to the LNB and manually adjust the skew see if you can Lock a C Band Transponder.
If you can, a cheap Analog receiver will get you up and running, you could then upgrade to a GBox and modern LNBF at a later time.
 
I converted everything I could to digital. You're going to have to bury a lot of old wire anyway. You might want to make the transition. If you do, the dish and actuator is the only part you will reuse. If you use the old analog receiver, you'd rebury the ribbon cable. I imagine its pretty expensive, and I don't know where you buy it. But I live in a rural area. And if you use the old receiver, you'd reuse your old lnb. If its a co-rotor, its a good one. It may well be worth the effort if it is. I've still got a good Drake receiver and co-rotor II I never used. I do know they worked because I used the old receiver and lnb to set up the satellite dish. But I changed everything out before I buried the wire.

A v-box or g-box would power the actuator with four wires if you do decide to do away with the analog receiver. The wires don't need to be shielded. I used old orange cords spliced together. It doesn't matter. You just need to use heavy enough wire to carry a DC current. I used 12 gauge wire for the motor and 14 for the reed sensor. But you don't necessarily have to use anything that heavy. I believe 18 and 22 gauge were suggested. The motor is either 24 volts or 36 volts. Two wires go to the motor and two to the reed sensor. That's it.

And you'll have either one or two coax lines. One would be for c-band and one for ku. Or you can use a 22hz switch (which comes on most combo lnb's) and just run one coax. I put two coax lines in the conduit anyway. Its always good to have an extra just in case.

There are several digital c/ku lnb's. There's a BSC621, GeoSat CK1 or DMX741. There may be others now. All are fifty dollars with shipping. Your positioner (v-box) costs $50. With the positioner you can either use the remote with the positioner or usals on your receiver to program your satellite positions.
The v-box stores up to 99 satellite positions. So the sky is the limit.

Get your dish plumb and scanning the Clarke Belt and watch c/ku fta. You'll have a good time doing it. I think you can do it for a couple of hundred dollars.
You're going to have to buy four or five bags of concrete to bury your pole.
That's about it.

And to get the old concrete off the old pole, get yourself a sledge hammer. It will bust up the old concrete pretty easily. I've had good luck salvaging most of the poles I've found. It's a good way to save a lot of money, too.

Have fun!!!:):):)
 
will ku and cband work on my bud or are the holes in the mesh inbedded in the fiber glass too big, as some people say
 
I saw a couple of anolog recivers in a antique shop the other day. should i go buy one to control the dish. The bud has a analog lnbf. Does it need replaced with a digital lnbf?

Relative to buying an old receiver, a couple things to consider. First of all, while any old receiver will control polarity, not all can move the dish (I'm assuming that you have an actuator). Usually the ones that can move the dish are called IRDs. It used to be that you'd have separate receivers and dish movers. Then, when scrambling came along, you had separate receivers, dish movers and descrambler cages. This got complicated, so they started selling IRDs that had everything in one box. Look on the back of the receiver to see if it has conncetions for some BIG motor wires, plus motor sensor wires, plus polarotor wires, in addition to the C/Ku coax connections, plus look for a 70 mhz loop and a baseband out or unclamped video port.
Also, many receivers cannot be used without a remote, so make sure you get a remote too.
Finally, there is no such thing as a "digital lnbf". There are LNBs or LNBFs that are advertised as being digital ready, but in general, old LNBs are fine, and often better than LNBFs sold for digital use.

will ku and cband work on my bud or are the holes in the mesh inbedded in the fiber glass too big, as some people say

With a fiberglass dish, there is no way to tell, but unless the dish is REALLY old, I doubt that mesh size will be a problem. Shape is the problem with old dishes. If the dish is warped due to age, or if it just wasn't designed to the accuracy required for Ku, then it's not going to work well on Ku regardless of the size of the holes in the mesh. Same thing is true for a solid metal dish. If it's not in the proper shape, it won't reflect to a point.
 
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