DISH receiver is turning my 40" Samsung LCD off

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jbnsd

Member
Original poster
Oct 22, 2011
5
0
San Diego
I just got DISH HD about a month ago. I didn't notice the problem at first because, as I figured out later, I was watching the free movie channels most of the time. My 40" Samsung LCD started shutting off and on. I thought the TV was going out but I noticed it was happening more when I was watching DIY, Food, History and channels like that. I can watch an entire movie on HBO without it shutting of but if I change to History channel it gets so bad sometimes it just goes off and on continuously. Going to call service Monday but found this group and wanted to see if anyone has heard of this problem. I have a second HD box on a smaller LCD that works fine. I checked the dish and I am getting strong signal on 105 and 110 but have a weak signal on 129 but that doesn't cause a problem on the other TV. It seems to be an an ir or rf interference. I drug the receiver box as far away from the TV to watch the World Series the other night and it seemed to help but it still shut off a few times. This has become a serious problem real fast.
 
Switch your receivers and see if it still happens. As pointed out don't understand getting a signal from the 105 satellite. You should have 119/110/129. You should have a good signal from 129 also, sounds like you need something done with aiming the dish. But that should have nothing to do with affecting the TV like that.

Possibly an HDMI problem, if you have a different HDMI cable you can try that.(Assuming you are using an HDMI cable)

I also see you just got Dish, who installed it?
 
Not seeing this.. I think you need to look elsewhere for the answer.. A remote maybe. But the reciever just can't do this.
Not 100% positive on that ... the 722k has the ability to backup timers in the remote... to so do it transmits to the remote but it must be either in LOS or very close to the receiver.

easiest way to block the IR window on the receiver and see if the problem goes away ...

but also think it could be HDMI related ... if user switches to Component Cables and the problem doesn't happen then the first order of business is to check for updates to the TV on Samsung's website.

I did also find this:
SAMSUNG's Digital World - Support

If available disable the BD Wise feature

As the TV tries to communicate with the external device timeout issues could occur. Disabling the BD Wise feature can prevent this.
sounds like trying to determine if something is "out there" .. and if not, the TV might be turning off, or might be going to low power mode .. etc..



What ever the cause... find it quick.. older LCD's with CFL for the light (compact florescent) source .. could suffer a shortened life span due to quick power cycling of the CFL's in the set.

Compact fluorescent lamp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The lifetime of any lamp depends on many factors, including operating voltage, manufacturing defects, exposure to voltage spikes, mechanical shock, frequency of cycling on and off, lamp orientation, and ambient operating temperature, among other factors. The life of a CFL is significantly shorter if it is turned on and off frequently. In the case of a 5-minute on/off cycle the lifespan of a CFL can be reduced to "close to that of incandescent light bulbs".[SUP][14][/SUP] The U.S. Energy Star program suggests that fluorescent lamps be left on when leaving a room for less than 15 minutes to mitigate this problem.
yeah... I know wikipedia .. but there's other links out there with similar discussion of the issue.
 
My mistake, it's 110/119/129. I get 60-70 on 110 and 119 but only 35-45 on 129. It took the installer 3 hrs trying to clear a large tree because of the limited space I had to put the dish. I think the tree is causing the low reading on 129. I tried hiding the remote first because the installer programed it for my Samsung. I thought maybe it was the problem. Then I change the HDMI cable but neither helped. I switched boxes. Both are VIP211k. Something is bouncing around the living room because if I leave the room it gets worse like an evil spirit taking over. I'm going to call support Monday. They must be aware of this problem because this was a popular model tv when I bought it. Thanks for all of they replies.
 
Here are some things to look at:

Confirm the TV is actually turning off and on rather than just loosing picture. If it's just loss of picture, investigate the HDMI connections: cable quality/length, intermittent connections ...

If the TV is turning on and off, determine how the TV is getting commands to turn itself on and off. Cover the IR sensor on the TV. Use something that's large enough to block signals from the sides and opaque to IR signals. Use a book or something similar. Electrical tape might not be enough.

If the problem stops then the is IR interference in the room. I doubt it's coming from the Dish receiver but you can eliminate that possibility by blocking its IR emitter.

I doubt the TV will be bothered by RF in the room unless it's remote is RF.

I also doubt loosing satellite signal will cause the TV to shut off as the HDMI video signal from the satellite receiver to the TV is not interrupted.


If that doesn't make the problem stop, try disconnecting the HDMI cable from the satellite receiver. IF the TV stays on, it's receiving commands over the HDMI cable. Check "HDMI Control". This is a mechanism for a devices to control each other via the HDMI connection. I don't believe the Dish receivers supports HDMI Control and if it's switched on in the TV, the TV might be responding to garbage commands.
 
The newer HDMI standard allows certain sets to turn equipment on and off. It's called: Control for HDMI function. Check in your tv sets settings screen, and see if there's some sort of HDMI control option. If so, turn it off.

If not, cover the IR emitter on your tv set with BLACK tape temporarily, and see if it still shuts off. If it does so, it CAN'T be from stray IR signals. Perhaps your sat receiver has a bad ground.

P.S. I used to have a particular laptop with an IR emitter to control printers, etc. Certain keystrokes (while sitting on the couch and using it while watching tv) would cause it to control my tv set in strange ways. I covered the laptop IR emitter with black tape, and that solved that!

P.P.S. Oops, I see kwindrem also pretty much covered the same thing I just did. That'll teach me to read the whole thread before replying...
 
Sorry I didn't get back sooner. I should have figured it was the HDMI cable. The biggest scam ever made by the electronics companies. Apparently it's not only physically designed to fail but electronically inferior. I put it on composite and sound cables and it works perfectly.
 
What ever the cause... find it quick.. older LCD's with CFL for the light (compact florescent) source .. could suffer a shortened life span due to quick power cycling of the CFL's in the set.

Compact fluorescent lamp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
yeah... I know wikipedia .. but there's other links out there with similar discussion of the issue.

Actually, LCD TVs that don't utilize LED use CCFL, not CFL.

Cold cathode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

They do not suffer the same issues that standard (hot cathode) fluorescent lamps do when constantly cycled, as they have no thermionic emission coating that would sputter when started in cold cathode mode.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_lamp#Cold_cathode_lamps
 
Sorry I didn't get back sooner. I should have figured it was the HDMI cable. The biggest scam ever made by the electronics companies. Apparently it's not only physically designed to fail but electronically inferior. I put it on composite and sound cables and it works perfectly.

I've got a 52 inch Sammy and have never had a similar problem. Did you every try a different hdmi cable. I had one go bad on me on my 211 connected to a small lcd in my computer room.
 
Sorry I didn't get back sooner. I should have figured it was the HDMI cable. The biggest scam ever made by the electronics companies. Apparently it's not only physically designed to fail but electronically inferior. I put it on composite and sound cables and it works perfectly.
I'm assuming with "composite" single yellow cable, you actually mean "component" three (red, green, blue) cables. Also, you may want to try getting an HDMI cable from Cables to Go at Amazon, costs about $6 bucks and that may work better.
 
I'm assuming with "composite" single yellow cable, you actually mean "component" three (red, green, blue) cables. Also, you may want to try getting an HDMI cable from Cables to Go at Amazon, costs about $6 bucks and that may work better.

Or monoprice.com.

The other possibility is that the TV is trying to communicate over the HDMI. For example, mine willl turn my blu-ray on and off.
 

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