When they said that that the power inserter comes from port 1 (output) of the 44 switch to the receiver, It has to be that way or the power inserter won't do what it is supposed to do. Are you using a seperator and a diplexer into the receiver from the 44 switch since you said you only have 1 wire coming into the room??
DPP44 Help
- Thread starter h2oski
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I was looking at the power supply for the DPP44 and have a question. There are two coax connections coming from the power supply. One is labeled to go to the switch receiver 1 position for powering the switch. The other says to go to the receiver in. Do I need to have one of my receivers connected to the switch power supply?
yes, you have to have one of the receivers connected to the power supply(the connection will be as follows: DPP seperator into port 1 and 2 of the receiver, then the to DPP lnb connection of the seperator will go into the to receiver port of the power inserter and then the port on the power inserter labeled as to switch will go into port 1 of the switch.) Also, the length of the copper from the end of the F connector on the coax cable could be the culprit as to why your switch is not working, i tend to leave the copper anywhere's from 3/8 - 5/8 of an inch from the end of the F connector when connecting into the ports of the switch. hope you get it sorted out.
yes, that is the correct setup, just make sure the power inserter is installed correctly with the to receiver end going to the receiver (seperator) and the to switch port 1 side is going to port 1 of the switch. make sure to run check switch once you have everything wired up as per your diagram. nice diagram btw
yes, that is the correct setup, just make sure the power inserter is installed correctly with the to receiver end going to the receiver (seperator) and the to switch port 1 side is going to port 1 of the switch. nice diagram btw
Thanks for the reply. I will keep my fingers crossed that it works. I did not have receiver one connected to the power supply in my previous attempts to connect the system.
I guess the 5 years in school becoming an Engineer paid off in drawing that diagram!
Thanks
Andy
You absolutly do NOT need to have a receiver connected on the receiver side of the power inserter.
It could be possible that power inserter doesn't work. To check you can hook a receiver directly to port 1, if you get anything then, you will know it's the inserter. Don't leave connected with out a inserter very long.
It could be possible that power inserter doesn't work. To check you can hook a receiver directly to port 1, if you get anything then, you will know it's the inserter. Don't leave connected with out a inserter very long.
i would first do as n0qcu suggested, if that yeild's no result i would then change the f connector of the 119 lnb at the switch and leave the copper out from the f connector and reconnect to lnb port 1, then change the f connector at the switch going to port 1 receiver 1, i would then disconnect the seperator and plug the cable directly into tuner 1 of the 622 (receiver 1) and go to the point dish screen and make sure tuner 1 and sat 119 are selected and see if you have signal, if so then the issue lies with your f connectors.
Although the previous 2 suggestions are great, I think I would save time and modify their suggestions.
(1) Remove power to all 3 receivers and the DPP-44.
(2) Remove the RG-6 for DPP-44 LNBF Input 1, replace the connector so that you have a long lead - about 3/8" past the thread will be fine.
(3) Remove the RG-6 for DPP-44 Receiver Output 1; replace the connector so that you have a long lead - about 3/8" past the thread will be fine.
(4) Apply power to the DPP-44, Receivers 1 and 2.
(5) Then do a Check Switch on Receiver 1. You will probably find satellite 119. If so, you know your DPP-44 connections were too short, and you will need to ensure all 3 inputs and 3 outputs are long enough. If not, then it is time to test the switch and power inserter; including by-passing them.
(6) Do a Check Switch on Receiver 2. If you find Sat 119, then the RG6 stringer for Receiver Output 2 is probably okay. If not, make it longer, as well as for Receiver 3.
NOTES:
- When you connect a DPP Twin LNBF to a DPP-44 Ports 1 & 2, Sat 119 will default to Port 1, and Sat 110 will default to Port 2.
- The RG-6 center conductor needs to be longer than most other applications for the DPP-44 to work. I think 1/4" will do it, but go ahead and put it 3/8" past the threads since the DPP-44 has plenty of room.
- If you are unable to immediately replace the connectors, then try splicing the LNBF cable by taking a small piece of coax with a long stringer and connect to the DPP-44 LNBF Input 1 and then to a barrel connector. Connect the other side of the barrel connector to the lead from the DPP Twin LNBF. This only to do a quick test of the connectors.
(1) Remove power to all 3 receivers and the DPP-44.
(2) Remove the RG-6 for DPP-44 LNBF Input 1, replace the connector so that you have a long lead - about 3/8" past the thread will be fine.
(3) Remove the RG-6 for DPP-44 Receiver Output 1; replace the connector so that you have a long lead - about 3/8" past the thread will be fine.
(4) Apply power to the DPP-44, Receivers 1 and 2.
(5) Then do a Check Switch on Receiver 1. You will probably find satellite 119. If so, you know your DPP-44 connections were too short, and you will need to ensure all 3 inputs and 3 outputs are long enough. If not, then it is time to test the switch and power inserter; including by-passing them.
(6) Do a Check Switch on Receiver 2. If you find Sat 119, then the RG6 stringer for Receiver Output 2 is probably okay. If not, make it longer, as well as for Receiver 3.
NOTES:
- When you connect a DPP Twin LNBF to a DPP-44 Ports 1 & 2, Sat 119 will default to Port 1, and Sat 110 will default to Port 2.
- The RG-6 center conductor needs to be longer than most other applications for the DPP-44 to work. I think 1/4" will do it, but go ahead and put it 3/8" past the threads since the DPP-44 has plenty of room.
- If you are unable to immediately replace the connectors, then try splicing the LNBF cable by taking a small piece of coax with a long stringer and connect to the DPP-44 LNBF Input 1 and then to a barrel connector. Connect the other side of the barrel connector to the lead from the DPP Twin LNBF. This only to do a quick test of the connectors.
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I have found that my DPP44 was a little picky without the extra conductor length.
I had a cable that it did not extend that far beyond the thread... <1/4", I found that when I re-crimped the connector to be 3/8" it worked fine.
IT WORKS! I think the problem was the F connector on the coax from the power inserter. I redid all of the F connectors anyway and after resolving some reciever issues, they had to be rest, everything works. Thanks again for all of the help.
Later
Andy
Later
Andy
Does the DPP44 absolutely require a power converter to work? I had one that combined a Dish500 dish (61.5 sat) with a Dish1000, and never saw any converters anywhere in my setup. It has worked fine for over a year now and I recently started getting low signal problems. A tech came out today and got rid of the DPP44 saying that the 61.5 sat is not needed since I have the Dish1000 to pick up the 129 sat for all the HD. But when he did that he ran all over the house looking for the power converter to remove from the line, but never found one because I don't think I ever got one. Is this possible? It has to be cause I never saw a power converter in my house and my 2 622's have been working fine for over a year.
I currently have 3 rooms connected and I called Dish and they told me in order to connect our 4th room I would need a DPP44. Then I can run a cable from the fourth room and connect it. WE already own a few more receivers (4000 models). I am not real familiar with installation procedures of this stuff but want to know if the DPP44 replaces something already connected to the sat? Do I just swap out the connections and place the DPP44 up there by the sat and go from there? Any info is great!
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks,
Ken
..What satellite(s) is/are your dish pointed to?...What type LNB is on your dish?...Is the power INSERTER connected to PORT NUMBER ONE on the switch?..
OK..You must have one cable to the DPP 44 for each satellite orbital slot..BY looping the cable to the input you are "cancelling out' the switching capability of the DPP 44...Run a third cable to the switch...For grounding..There are screws on the corners of the switch that have a "pass through lug" on them..These are for a GND wire...Use 10 guage GND wire..BTW the screws take a number one phillips screw driver...A number two is too large..
