DVR1100c loses Vertical signals

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Active SatelliteGuys Member
Original poster
Jan 25, 2011
22
0
Mount Airy, MD
During a recent storm, a nearby lightning strike apparently fried the two LNBFs on my Glorystar system (one of the earlier models, with support for SES1 and Galaxy 19). I had long planned transitioning from the two SL1 LNBF system (with the SES1 LNBF no longer used) to a single dual LNBF dish (to allow multiple receivers). Being short on cash, I ended up getting an ESX522 (which was less than half the cost of an SL2).

At first, all went pretty well. Both my DVR1100c and the Viewsat VS2000 Ultra which I added were working well. Then I noticed a couple times when I booted to DVR1100c seemed to lose some channels after power up that the Viewsat saw just fine. Finally, the DVR1100c lost the channels permanently.

I tried switching LNBF inputs, switched wires, reloaded firmware... nothing. The Viewsat saw everything, while the Geosatpro was missing a bunch of channels. One channel, JN1, actually shows adequate signal sometimes according to the Signal display, but remains black.

Then I noticed the pattern -- I lost all the Vertical channels. The Horizontals are just fine. Given that I've swapped everything I can readily swap, done OTA loads, and even reloaded firmware from the USB, I've come to the conclusion that the Geosatpro has likely fried the circuitry needed to switch between Horizontal and Vertical.

Sounds like it is time to purchase a new receiver. Anyone have an alternative which I have not considered?
 
Measure the voltage provided by the receiver to power the LNBF. This voltage should be measured under load (LNBF connected and powered). Measure the voltage at the receiver and at the dish.

Voltages on a vertical channel should be approximately 13vdc (+/- 10%) and on a horizontal channel 18vdc (+/- 10%). If voltages are fine at the receiver and not at the dish, then the cable, fittings or LNBF port could be suspect. If the voltages are not within this range at the back of the receiver, the receiver is suspect. If the voltage is within this range at the dish, the LNBF is suspect.
 
I am unsure how I would measure voltage on a device powered and connected. Sounds like I would need a special device with F connectors on it. Some details would be most appreciated.

Note as well that the same LNBF, when connected to my Viewsat on the same connector, works fine. I have tried the Viewsat on both connectors of the LNBF successfully, while the Glorystar on both connectors of the LNBF has no Vertical. So if the LNBF is bad, the Viewsat must be bad in exactly the same way as the LNBF.

Thank you.
 
If the 2nd port is working fine when swapped, then the LNBF is working.

To test the cable, swap the receivers.

If you are unable to splice a coax for testing voltage under load, test without load and deterine if within range. May not catch a problem, but you do what you can...
 
Using a Digital Multimeter to measure DC Volts from the pin of a wire connected to the SAT IN port to a screw on the receiver exterior for ground, with no LNBF connected:

H channels: 21.9 VDC +/- 0.1
V channels: 21.7 VDC +/- 0.1

Thanks.
 
Either the tuner or the voltage regulator has been damaged. The 21vdc is locking the LNBF in the horizontal polarity.

You could set up an RMA to have the extent of the damage evaluated, but typically lightning damage extends past a single component.
 
Sounds like a new receiver is the best solution. Thanks for all the help!

To the more academic question, for future use:

To measure the voltage under load, can I create a short RG6 cable with the conductor partially exposed and use that for reading voltage, or is that not safe for the equipment? I see relatively expensive devices for sale on the Web which purport solve the problem, but, frankly, I'd like not to spend over a $100 simply to find out what a voltage level is.

Is this a reasonable approach, or is there a more economical device for checking voltage under load?

Thanks.
 
The F-connector T would be a neat way to test.

I usually cut a crescent shaped section out of a disposable coax jumper to give access for probing the center conductor and the braid.
 
Splitters typically allow power and signals to flow between one or multiple ports and the input/output, but do not allow voltage to flow between the ports. This "T" device allows power and signals to flow between all ports. Usually, this is not a good thing....
 
Brian, thanks for the information on splitters.

rv1pop: $3 part with $11 shipping. Gotta love it. It's actually cheaper to order the one from England off eBay, but thanks for a domestic source.
 

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