Ku FTA with 1.2m CM and Coolsat 4000 - need some guidance

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kthelen

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Jul 7, 2010
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In the heart of Minnesota!
Hello all!

I've been collecting up surplus satellite gear over the past few years, and lurking here on and off in an attempt to keep up with FTA goings-on. I've installed my own DBS setups on several occasions, but that's about all the more experience I have with installing satellite equipment.

Today I finally decided to take the plunge. I set a post in the yard, mounted a Channel Master 1.2m round dish (formerly used for Muzak reception), and ran about 60' of RG6 from it to my Coolsat 4000. So far so good.

But then, decision time: I have here three choices for an LNB. There's a no-name one that came with the dish, one taken from a 1.2m Primestar dish (has separate H/V outputs), and a CalAmp 31186 that appears to be new.

First I hooked up the CalAmp unit. I tried various settings on the Coolsat (13V, 18V, "ON", etc) but couldn't get the power LED to turn on. Double-checked cabling, ends, etc - no problems. I pointed the dish at AMC-1 and checked the signal strength on the Coolsat... nothing, of course.

I did the same dance with the generic LNB with similar results. Only difference was that this one has no power indicator, so no way of knowing if it was working or not.

Then, out of desperation, I bolted up the Primestar LNB and tried both the horizontal and vertical outputs. Strangely enough the Coolsat showed a signal strength of around 80%, but the signal quality was around 2-4%. Scanning produced nothing (of course). Results were the same regardless of which output I tried.

I get the feeling I'm missing something here, but my lack of experience is preventing me from seeing what. Anybody have any ideas?
 
welcome :wave from another Minnesotan

couple thoughts with the info posted
1. usually the "stock" LNB's for those Muzak dishes are single polarity (just one) so you have to have the right polarity channel
2. AMC1 at 103W is really not the best satellite to aim with. The satellite has an oddball skew when it was sent into orbit the skew is 26 degrees opposite what it "should be" which for us in MN is about 7 or 8....the skew needs to be twisted 26 degrees opposite of that
3. The signal strength usually will show something when the LNB is connected. Its the quality that matters
4. The stock LNB should work (again depending on polarity). The Primestar LNB's seem to work really well but the separate polarity does cause an issue. Folks use a Directv 3x4 multiswitch to combine the 2 polarities into one
5. Make sure in the dish settings it set for SINGLE and LNB Frequency 10750

the best thing to do is a blind scan. The receiver will scan and find whatever frequencies it can pick up. It may not be that satellite but at least we'll know where the dish is aimed

thelist at the top is a good source of the channels and transponder info
 
1. usually the "stock" LNB's for those Muzak dishes are single polarity (just one) so you have to have the right polarity channel

Yes, seems to be. I took it off the feedhorn to see how it was set... seems that the "slot" is turned so that it's taller than it is wide, I assume that means vertical polarity?

2. AMC1 at 103W is really not the best satellite to aim with. The satellite has an oddball skew when it was sent into orbit the skew is 26 degrees opposite what it "should be" which for us in MN is about 7 or 8....the skew needs to be twisted 26 degrees opposite of that

DishPointer said to twist it 9° clockwise, which I did... is this incorrect? Perhaps I should aim it at another bird for now.

The Primestar LNB's seem to work really well but the separate polarity does cause an issue. Folks use a Directv 3x4 multiswitch to combine the 2 polarities into one

I may have such a beast around - will have to look tomorrow. What is the consequence (if any) of running that Primestar LNB without the multiswitch - I assume that it's no different that using a single-polarity LNB?

5. Make sure in the dish settings it set for SINGLE and LNB Frequency 10750

Yup, that's where I had it. In fact, that's the only combination that seems to "work" with the Primestar LNB, which is why I stuck with it (the signal meter dropped to 0 with any other settings).

the best thing to do is a blind scan. The receiver will scan and find whatever frequencies it can pick up. It may not be that satellite but at least we'll know where the dish is aimed

I'll have to try that. I was only doing an "auto scan" before. Perhaps something on this dish is out of whack and thus I only *think* it's aimed correctly?
 
DishPointer said to twist it 9° clockwise, which I did... is this incorrect? Perhaps I should aim it at another bird for now.
they have it wrong. They dont compensate for this abnormality. Using downtown Mpls as a zip I get 17 counterclockwise if you are standing behind the dish. The skew looks the same as Horizon 2 at 74W

I may have such a beast around - will have to look tomorrow. What is the consequence (if any) of running that Primestar LNB without the multiswitch - I assume that it's no different that using a single-polarity LNB?
you only get one polarity

Yup, that's where I had it. In fact, that's the only combination that seems to "work" with the Primestar LNB, which is why I stuck with it (the signal meter dropped to 0 with any other settings).
ok thats good

I'll have to try that. I was only doing an "auto scan" before. Perhaps something on this dish is out of whack and thus I only *think* it's aimed correctly?
auto scan only scans the transponder info logged in there. Blind scan will find where the dish is aimed
 
Well, this evening I got tired of trying to pull in AMC-1. So I aimed the dish due south (or so I thought) and played with the elevation and skew until I was peaked on... something.

Turns out the "something" I peaked on was Galaxy 3C, or so my research on Lyngsat would suggest. Guess it's time to get a "degrees" label for my pole and recalibrate the elevation pointer, now that I have a good idea of where I'm aimed.

I'm sure I'll have more questions, but I'm happy with the results so far - at least I know it all works.

Thanks for the help!
 
Well, this evening I got tired of trying to pull in AMC-1. So I aimed the dish due south (or so I thought) and played with the elevation and skew until I was peaked on... something.

Turns out the "something" I peaked on was Galaxy 3C, or so my research on Lyngsat would suggest. Guess it's time to get a "degrees" label for my pole and recalibrate the elevation pointer, now that I have a good idea of where I'm aimed.

I'm sure I'll have more questions, but I'm happy with the results so far - at least I know it all works.

Thanks for the help!

cool. Its always nice to get that first signal...no matter what it is :)
 

Yup, it's quite similar to the one seen there. It's identical to the 1.2m CMs that Primestar used, aside from the color of the fiberglass (I have one of those around, too). But my NPRM isn't quite as beefy as that one - the only one I had was originally used with a .75m CM dish and thus is smaller.

Side-note: the pole diameter on said roof mount was 2", but the 1.2m dishes are set up for a 3" pole. Fortunately I saved the mount from the .75m dish (which was otherwise junk). The holes didn't line up, but no problem - redneck engineering to the rescue! I was able to make a plywood "adapter plate" that suited it just fine, and will eventually be making a metal one now that I know it all works.

Will have to take some pics tomorrow.

cool. Its always nice to get that first signal...no matter what it is :)

True that. Not that CCTV, preachers, or OTB are my thing - but good to see it working for the first time :up
 
Okay, well here's one: the receiver doesn't seem to know about AMC-9 - there is no 83° bird in its list. Which begs the question... could this Coolsat be running ancient firmware, and if so what might I do to get it up to date?

I already went looking on my own, but it seems Coolsat's website is gone and everything else I found appeared to be connected with DishNet piracy and was rather sketchy.
 
I know on the factory software the sat list was very outdated. There is a site that has what we would call 3rd party factory software but that is only for the 5000 & 6000. I dont know if it would work in the 4000

otherwise here is a list that I had of the KU sats from 72-129 and the C-Band ones also. You would have to use the loader to put it into the receiver.

unzip both files
open loader
select "channels"
find file on computer
press start to push the new channel list to the receiver
 

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