Need help with specs to get the right HDMI Splitter . . .

SandFarmer

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Mar 21, 2009
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I have two TV's that "ALWAYS" watch the same channel. One 55" in the Living Room and a 40" in the Kitchen. They are on opposite sides of the core wall that runs down the middle of that part of the house and the Hopper3 is in the Media closet beneath them. I have 35' Carbernet "Active" cables to each TV and they work great individually. I have purchased several splitters and they work for a short time perfectly and then stop or I just get sound and no picture. I was told by one TSR that you can't use an "active" cable between the H3 and the splitter. They want to dump the splitter and send me another. The other two work for a day or two then stop.

Are there any EDID or power or ? issues that I need to know that I have to observe to get 1080i to each TV?

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you . . .
 
I bought this one 4 years ago and have been using it with my 722 since. No issues. Link doesn't seem to be working so here's a screenshot.

Annotation 2019-06-07 085309.png

Amazon product ASIN B007K1KWTQ
 
I bought this one 4 years ago and have been using it with my 722 since. No issues. Link doesn't seem to be working so here's a screenshot.

Great!! Thank You! The link worked great. I have two that are like that one, which are the ones that work for a couple of days and stop. BUT you are using a 722. I have read posts that people with 722's most any splitter will work. WHILE with or when they switch to a Hopper3 they don't. That's my problem. I'd like to use the HDMI cable I have run and get the "best" picture, but I just may end up running a Component cable.

Thanks again!!
 
I have the Hopper with Sling. We purchase a new Samsung 55” for the living room and moved the older 40” Sharp to the craft room. I used this splitter and it has worked great. Monoprice Blackbird 4K 1x2 HDMI Splitter - Monoprice.com

I used a 6 foot premium HDMI cable from the Hopper to the splitter. I ran another short run premium HDMI cable from the splitter to the Samsung. I used a 30 foot Redmere HDMI cable from the splitter to the Sharp in the craft room. It has been 3 weeks and everything has been working as it should.
 
I'm trying to use the Monoprice: Blackbird 4K Pro 1x2 HDMI Splitter 18Gbps 4K@60Hz YUV4:4:4 with HDCP 2.2 Support - Monoprice.com, but on a Hopper3.

So far everyone that has chimed in is using other boxes than the Hopper3. I have spoken with Monoprice TS and she was great. She verified that all my cables are what they should be. But all I get off that unit is sound and no picture. I have two like this Monoprice Blackbird 4K 1x2 HDMI Amplifier Splitter - Monoprice.com, but without the EDID switch and that is the unit that works for a couple of days, then stops. I think they are going to RMA the Monoprice unit I have and we're going to try the: Monoprice Blackbird 4K Pro 1x2 HDMI Ultra Slim Splitter with EDID Management - Monoprice.com with a wider EDID selection that just might accommodate the Hopper3.

Thanks though . . .
 
I contacted Monoprice before I purchased mine to see it the splitter I was considering would work. The TS stated it should work in my setup with one exception. There are some companies that make it so a splitter will not work with their boxes. They want you to have a box for every TV. Maybe that is the case with the Hopper 3.
 
I contacted Monoprice before I purchased mine to see it the splitter I was considering would work. The TS stated it should work in my setup with one exception. There are some companies that make it so a splitter will not work with their boxes. They want you to have a box for every TV. Maybe that is the case with the Hopper 3.

I did the same. But it looks like few are that deeply versed with the H3 in this regard "yet". Monoprice.com (I Love These Guys!!!) said we'd try whatever they had until we got it to work. If worst comes to worst, I'll run a component cable. Next one we'll try will be the version with the 4 DIP switches, which I almost did first. Might give a bit more "latitude" to circumvent the H3. And yes you are right they want one TV one box off one main box. And I just got rid of a Joey that sat there for a year. It could have solved everything instantly.

I got my two H3's based on their previous mantra of "One TV, One Box, then they added in the RF distribution that I had installed a whole house system in the early 90's that we don't use as much anymore. But they screwed up on the basic configuration of the H3. They expect a family that has years of recordings and timers on separate units to move it all into a single unit that is equal to the ones they are coming from. So tell me how you get 2 2TB drives merged into one 2TB drive and one set of timers + the other that = more than they allow. Before I could take another breath The Retention Rep said "I'll be more than glad to approve your dual H3 install. I just had to buy the second one. Solid Signal was great about it. DishDepot were dicks.

I'll probably just run a Component cable to the one in the Living room, since it gets the least use.
 
I did the same. But it looks like few are that deeply versed with the H3 in this regard "yet". Monoprice.com (I Love These Guys!!!) said we'd try whatever they had until we got it to work. If worst comes to worst, I'll run a component cable. Next one we'll try will be the version with the 4 DIP switches, which I almost did first. Might give a bit more "latitude" to circumvent the H3. And yes you are right they want one TV one box off one main box. And I just got rid of a Joey that sat there for a year. It could have solved everything instantly.

I was using a MOVCLE HDC-102 with my H1 to split the HDMI to an HDMI recorder, haven't hooked it up to my H3 yet though don't know if it will work there. You do have to turn on TV1 first though so that the handshake occures, then turn on the recorder, the recorder will not do the handshake with the H1 to get a picture. Dunno if there is a difference between the H1 and H3. I could hook it up and see but would take 3 or 4 days to make sure it continues to work.....
 
I was using a MOVCLE HDC-102 with my H1 to split the HDMI to an HDMI recorder, haven't hooked it up to my H3 yet though don't know if it will work there. You do have to turn on TV1 first though so that the handshake occures, then turn on the recorder, the recorder will not do the handshake with the H1 to get a picture. Dunno if there is a difference between the H1 and H3. I could hook it up and see but would take 3 or 4 days to make sure it continues to work.....

The units I have been using can create their own EDID and still there are issues and the box is a Hopper 3. I trust the HDCP is at least 2.0. The last unit I used was 2.2.
 
Those from Amazon do a great job stripping HDCP also :)

I'm seeing that they are all mostly the same, even a whole series has the same graphics on the Splitters, but different boxes. This unit is an HDMI 1.3. Probably too low for an H3. Thanks though.

I'm going to call Monoprice, have them RMA the one I have and send me the one with a great ability to adjust for EDID. Long before I needed to do this I have read threads of others looking to do this and it all came down to the EDID. And these days they have to talk. Can't strip it out.
 
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I bought mine from Amazon. Just be sure it is powered. A passive splitter will not work. 1 in and 2 output is all you need, but it must be powered. The one that johnr475 suggested should work fine. Just be sure all your HDMI cables are at least 18gbps rated.
Actually, here is one at Monoprice that supports 18gbps.
Blackbird 4K Pro 1x2 HDMI Splitter 18Gbps 4K@60Hz YUV4:4:4 with HDCP 2.2 Support - Monoprice.com

In all reality that should be the way it should work. It's not. The one that johnr475 suggested is the one I have now. It is not working. My cables have been verified by Monoprice TS and we are working through this. It's looking more and more like something with the EDID in the H3. The next one may give more versatility in dealing with the EDID . . . .
 
The one Johnr475 is using is only 10.2 gbps. The link that I listed is one that has 18gbps, which Onkyo techs told me was required for the newer av receivers. I only have a HWS, but the same 18gbps cables and splitters should be needed for any connection.
 
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The one Johnr475 is using is only 10.2 gbps. The link that I listed is one that has 18gbps, wh Onkyo techs told me was required for the newer av receivers...

I have a new device in a mangled box and am not touching it until Monoprice departments get their hands all in the claim.

All their units are 18Gbps in the categories I'm looking at. All the cabling is Certified labeled for 18Gbps. And I'm not feeding an AVR. It's direct to two 1080i@60Hz TVs.

Sent from my SM-T380 using the SatelliteGuys app!
 
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