Option to give motor time to move on CS5000

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cracklincrotch

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Sep 28, 2007
1,026
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Halifax, Nova Scotia
Is there an option I'm missing on my Coolsat 5000, to make the receiver pause before a blind scan to give my motor time to move from sat to sat? I've been starting a scan, waiting for the motor move command to be done, then exit the scan, then go back and scan again after a few seconds. Getting to be a pain.
 
Mine does pause, I thought they all did. it. I use channelmaster to keep my satellites in ascending order, then choose all the birds I want to scan, starting low at 72, 74, 79, 83, 87, 89 etc. once they are all selected, I hit scan and the Coolsat will move to the first bird, scan, when its done it will move 2 degrees to the next bird and scan, etc. The short distance between the birds gives the Coolsat lots of time so its not scanning before it gets to the bird. Ive never timed the pause but it must be around 15-20 seconds. You'res doesn't pause at all?
It would be a problem if I wanted to scan 72, then move to 129, it would probably start scanning before the motor moved that far. Did I misunderstand your question?
 
I wondered if sorting the sats by location might help but didn't think that would work, because the CS wants to scan the vertical transponders first. I suppose if I manually scanned H first, the motor would move faster, and along with sorting the list would probably be enough time to get the motor to move to the correct position before scanning.
 
I just noticed in your signature file you have the DG380 HH motor, how do you like it? I have the Winegard 1 meter also and may put it back in service someday, its heavy and needs some power to move, is the 380 up to it?
 
I just noticed in your signature file you have the DG380 HH motor, how do you like it? I have the Winegard 1 meter also and may put it back in service someday, its heavy and needs some power to move, is the 380 up to it?

I'm not familiar with the Winegard but I have a 39" digiwave and the 380. It works great for that dish. It doesn't seem to have any problem moving the dish around. It's also been very accurate for me. I would recommend it, no problem.
 
what software is in the 5000?

version 1.00 doesnt do that
version 1.01 does

but are you scanning adjacent satellites (72/74/79) or trying 74 then booking to 123. I dont know if that would work
 
I just noticed in your signature file you have the DG380 HH motor, how do you like it? I have the Winegard 1 meter also and may put it back in service someday, its heavy and needs some power to move, is the 380 up to it?

The motor works great. It's my first motor and had it installed and working across the arc in 30 minutes from getting the box delivered.

I installed it differently than any way I've known people to. I first aimed the dish at a satellite with the same elevation requirement as I need for the correct declination. I needed a dish angle of 28.3 degrees to get a declination angle of 6.7. So what I did was find out what sat I would have to aim at with an elevation of 28.3. Turned out to be Galaxy 16 at 99W. I aimed it at G16 and locked down the elevation bolts. Then I set the latitude and put the dish on the motor as straight as I could. Then drove the motor to Horizons 2 with USALS. Then I just turned the motor on the mount right/left until I had it. Shot it over to G18 and it was still on. Time to tighten it down. Done.

There was one problem I had that I was able to repair myself. There were a lot of metal shavings on the threads of the u-bolts. I thought I got most of them off. I'd set it up on the ground first because it's my first motor and like I said I had no problems. Because I've got my dishes at the back of the house to keep the wife happier I needed to get it up on a tall pole to get LOS from 116W and west. So I get the 14' mast up and I heaved the thing up using a 6' ladder by myself to the top of the thing. That was exercise, I'll tell ya. Anyway, I start tighening up the bottom u-bolt to keep it from sliding down the mast and move on to the top bolts. I used my fingers to start and got them as far as I could go but I still had 1/2" to go and they wouldn't move. Tried an adjustable wrench and I was twisting the bolts with no success. Then I tried backing them off and they wouldn't move either. So I tried a pair of pliers and they were throwing sparks.

So here I've got a 35lb dish and motor 14' up in the air with the bottom bolts tight but the top loose as hell. It's 30F and it's starting to drizzle and the wind is coming up. I had this installed earlier on the ground on a smaller pole so I know there's nothing wrong with the threads. I ended up having to take the mast down like you'd cut a tree down and catch it before it hits the ground. I get the bracket off the motor and take it into the house. Sprayed some Seafoam on it, soaking the threads, and still won't budge.

I ended up cutting the sides of the nuts off with a hacksaw and that allowed the nut to open up enough I could thread them off. Once they were back the width of the nut I found that two or three threads were just plain missing now, all the way around.

Off to the hardware store I go and that got interesting too. I took the u-bolt with me to make sure I got the right size. Looked like a 5/16" nut to me but that wouldn't thread. But I remembered that the motor is made in China, and they use metric sizes. Turns out to be an 8mm.

The new nuts went over the missing threads with a little help from an adjustable wrench. Working great now. The only thing I can figure that would cause the nuts to bind like that was either they were cross threaded, but the nuts were on 1-1/2" so discounted that. Or I didn't clean all of the little metal flecks that I found on the threads off and they bound up in the threads of the nuts. I am unable to explain why the nuts both bound directly across from each other, or why I mounted it perfectly fine with no issues a few hours before.

In the end I put the dish on the ground, out front of the house. Not putting anything up in the air like that again. Certainly would be difficult to tweak with a step ladder when necessary that high up.

I attached a photo that I took this morning through my front window.
 

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There was once a discussion of stainless nuts & U-bolt, where they self-welded to each other.
But, I though that was under high stress and torque.
... from the friction, I presume.
He recommended anti-seize compound.

I bring it up for purposes of discussion.
Don't know if it applies here.?.
 
Geez, what an adventure, glad you got it up anyway. I had a similar problem with threads on an SG-2100, U-bolts are made of soft stuff and threads won't take much abuse. If you want to try the 1.01 Coolsat firmware, I have it here, pm me your address and I'll send it. I didn't remember version 1.00 not having a pause but its been so long since I used it.
 
3 things:

Iceberg posted the Coolsat 500 1.01 firmware here:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/770719-post3.html I downloaded it (also have CS 5000) and it works.

I also recently purchased the DG380 and can confirm that the U-Bolts are produced with little concern for quality. I had a difficult time with them exactly as described above.

I have a question regarding the DG380 and the elevation scale. I don't know if I should used the leading edge of the scale or the little 'half arrow' that is about 2 degrees inside the leading edge (I'm not even sure if it is an arrow). I used the leading edge, but I cannot lock onto anything above 113W - (Cannot get 123 or 129).True south is 96, and both 95 and 97 come in great, and I've tried all the way down to 74 - no problem. Clear line-of-sight to the sky. My pole is 'plumb'; it is not perfect but the bubble on my level is in between the innermost 2 lines in all orientations w/system mounted - is this good enough? Should I try to straighten the pole? I am using USALS - I tried tweeking w/DISEQC a bit in either direction but it didn't work (maybe I didn't go far enough?)
 
I used the tip of the arrow to mark the point I wanted it.

Sorry for your pain with the bolts guys, but I sure feel better knowing that others had the exact same problem. :)

One thing I wish I could do with the dish now is keep it from bouncing around as much in the wind. I've never lost a signal but it looks intimidating to see it bounce. There does seem to be a bit of slack in the motor, but again, not enough to lose signal. At least, not with this one meter dish.

If your dish is mounted on a wall, do you know if when you push on it does it go out of plumb? That would simulate the weight of the dish shifting as it goes across the arc. And since you only have the problem at the extreme end, I'd just try pushing on the left side of your mast simulating the weight of the dish being on the right (to get a sat in the west) and see if the bubble goes out of the lines. If it does, that's your problem.

The other thing to try is drive your motor to say 123 and try pushing on the dish to make it go up/down/left/right and see if you get anything. You probably will if it's not a problem with being mast being plumb. Might just be a matter of splitting the difference between a hot signal toward the south and getting no signal when aimed west. Better to have both than none of one and all of another.

Also, when tweaking if you find that when you tighten the top bolts that you lose your signal or quality drops, you need to turn the motor on your mast clockwise a teeny bit.
 
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Ditto on the U-bolts for the 380. I had to take a hack saw to mine to get them off after I overtightened them (or so I thought). Ended up replacing them with four seperate bolts from the hardware store.
 
I got the 1.01 software installed. I realize that this is gonna sound ironic, but is there a way to reduce the time the box waits for the motor to move? The motor is now long done moving and the receiver just sits and waits for about 15 seconds or more.
 
If you weren't right there watching it.... if you were having a chat with the kids, or petting the dog, you wouldn't even notice those 15 seconds... :)
Quit watching the kettle! ;)
 
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