OTHER pipe adaptor

3d1r

SatelliteGuys Family
Original poster
Mar 16, 2017
41
7
cal
Can I get a steel pipe adaptor that joins the 2 3/8 " OD WIldblue collar to 1 1/2 inch OD Dish network pipe??
 
Can I get a steel pipe adaptor that joins the 2 3/8 " OD WIldblue collar to 1 1/2 inch OD Dish network pipe??
DISH masts are 1-5/8" tubing which means that they have a 1-5/8" OD.

You would have to ream/drill 2" schedule 160 pipe (assuming you could locate some) or ideally (in terms of fit and ease of assembly), go for 2-3/8" tubing with 3/8" wall.

To use such a small mast with such a large dish is something that you need to think about. The strength of a round tube varies by the cube of its radius.
 
I would reinforce all the parts and add 2 arms for stability also.
If you're going to add stiffening devices to the thing, it may be easier just to start with 2" pipe (2-3/8" OD) and have something fabricated.

Struts and braces aren't typically all that effective in preventing twisting. Adding new holes to the mounting surface for anchoring braces substantially negates any benefit of using an existing mounting foot.

If you look at what DIRECTV is doing with their behemoth Slimline dish, they use a 2" tube and braces as a starting point.
 
If anyone happens to have an Old WB J pipe with the arms rusting away in a junk pile I could use it. I will pay the shipping.
THere has to be thousands of them un used from the last 10 years when people got tired of WB overpriced scam.
 
Somewhere between Starband and the heavily gubmint subsidized Excede, WildBlue wasn't such a bad deal.

Those who have been around long enough remember when satellite was only one way.
 
I figured out a good solution using a thickwalled galv. pipe.Stronger than the WB mast.
btw I have some 2 cable copper rg6 75 ohm from the WB install years ago.I can use this for coax for FTA,no?
 
I figured out a good solution using a thickwalled galv. pipe.Stronger than the WB mast.
Glad I recommended 2" pipe (since all 2" pipe has a 2-3/8" OD regardless of schedule).
btw I have some 2 cable copper rg6 75 ohm from the WB install years ago.I can use this for coax for FTA,no?
As long as it isn't kinked, skinned (jacket scraped or rotted off) or otherwise damaged, any RG6 should work.
 
i have one of those terminal tools that installs the coax ends..the ends with the blue plastic rings....can you re use those??? since they are not crimped...
 
Are you referring to compression fittings?

That is what I use.
 
i have one of those terminal tools that installs the coax ends..the ends with the blue plastic rings....can you re use those???
You can reuse any properly terminated RG-6 cable.

The compression tool can be used many times with compatible connectors.

The connectors themselves can only be installed once (a process called swaging) and if they're installed correctly, you have to cut the cable to remove them.
 
I have one of the Ideal tools...its got blue handles..it says it does RG 59 RG6 and RG 6Q. I have been using it with the Ideal 89-035
F connectors. What other common connectors will work with this tool??
 
here is a question about LNB placement. If you are using a universal LNB on a reflector dish like the WIld Blue. Is there an issue with
getting too much of a signal??? On this dish you can place the LNB anywhere on a rail from 3 inches to 12 inches away from the reflector.
Do I just use the TV signal at its highest level or is there more to it??Looking at pics of WIld Blue dishes seems to show it fairly close to the reflector..maybe 4 inches away.And pointed low on the reflector. But that might be just for the ANIK freqs. and not applicable for Galaxy 19.
What do you know about this and please explain why some set ups need attenuators....
 
Do I just use the TV signal at its highest level or is there more to it??Looking at pics of WIld Blue dishes seems to show it fairly close to the reflector..maybe 4 inches away.And pointed low on the reflector. But that might be just for the ANIK freqs. and not applicable for Galaxy 19.

No that is the prime focal point of the antenna. For any satellite you are wanting to receive. So it needs to be where the factory TRIA was setting at.
Believe me you will not get too much signal with that dish. :)

I will assume you are reading about setting up a WildBlue dish for internet. The attenuators are only used for setting it up for internet and will not be needed for your use.
Just an FYI so you know, since you asked. The transmit power of the WildBlue bird is extremely stronger than transponders you will be looking at. There is also other close by transponders being used. You can only put so many people on a transponder. So with the help of the WildBlue ATA and attenuation, it helps to narrow in on the proper frequency when aiming. Now you know... :)

Again though, nothing you will have to worry about.
 
A dish such as the Wild Blue dish has only one focal point and it needs to be right down the "throat" of the feed horn. The fact that it is made up of two different reflectors just makes the mounting arm shorter.

If you do a Google search for "focal length of Wild Blue dish", you'll find a thread started by local hero KE4EST (that oddly can't be found using the site's search engine) containing some discussion about how to mount third party LNBs on Wild Blue dishes.

WildBlue Dish Converted to FTA
 
Right, main reflector of the WB dish has one Focal point. But Subreflector has 2 Focal points, one of them is co-located with the Focal point of the main reflector, and second one is co-located with the LNBF's Phase center. Welcome to Gregorian design, which is WB antenna. And, by theory, Gregorian design antennas perform ~10% better than simple offsets or PFAs.
 
"ways until I found the focal point. I then locked down the LNB and did some fine adjustments to the dish until I had
a surprisingly, very good signal."
Very good is something anyway...
 
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