Thank you guys for all the tips and tricks.
After I used leveler my sat pole which the motor and dish sitting on is off.
I checked the plumb before I installed dish and than after the motor was installed. When i stalled dish somehow the plumb was off but I forgot about this process. After like 16 hours of labor I to try too tune to 97W i still have same blinking problem. What I did was to checked the pole with leveler BOOM it was not perfectly Plumb. That might been my problem all along
I used tripod that is resting on wooden pallet but because of the pallet not being sturdy it throws my setting off. I have no problem gettign Quailty with stronger Sat like 61.5 , 110 , 119 etc.
Here is my situation:
I rent where i reside so I cant attach anything to the side or top of the building. My neighbors have proffessional dishes stalled where they have pole dug into the ground also they also dont have motorized dish in any of the set ups.
I am not sure how go about this procaudures which might be my ONLY choice.
IS there a guidline or video about how to install pole into the ground that wouldnt get me into trouble with landlord. I am open to other options cant seem to use the pallet with tripod.
Bash,
Installing a pole or mast in the ground and anchoring it with concrete is the best method. I would recommend this method over any other.
It is very easy, a lot easier then mounting it on the roof or on the siding. It also makes it easier to work on the dish and motor and perform your alignments or if you have to de-ice the dish or remove snow. No ladders required and no icy roofs to slip off of!
You will have to discuss this with your landlord, of course. With some labor, you can dig it up and remove it if the landlord requires you to do so at some later date. So you can tell the landlord that it can be removed if absolutely necessary.
Basically, you dig a hole roughly 10"-12" in diameter and about 36" deep. If you are in an extreme cold climate location, you might want to dig deeper. You want the bottom of the hole, where you will set the concrete, to be below the frost line, otherwise when the ground freezes and thaws, it will cause "heaving" and actually move the mast and throw your plumb off. You understand how critical this is.
You will want a 4 - 5 foot section of galvanized 1 1/4" water pipe, a 24" to 36" section of pipe, two 3" x 1 1/4" nipple pipes a 1 1/4" coupling a 1 1/4" Tee and a 1 1/4" pipe cap. Connect all the pieces together, with the Tee at the bottom and the two nipple pipes facing outwards (perpendicular to the vertical pipe and set in line with north/south). The 24"-36" pipe installs directly above the Tee, then the coupling and then the 4 - 5 ft pipe above that and the pipe cap on top of the 4 - 5 ft section. The pipe cap is to keep rain water out of the mast pipe.
You can adjust the lengths of the pipe sections depending upon how deep you dig the hole and how high you want the dish to be above ground. A good rule of thumb is that the top of the pipe should be about eye level for you. That usually provides a good working level. You won't need a step stool or ladder and you won't need to crouch down to work on the dish or motor. Just a good ergonomic design.
Set the pipe in the hole with the Tee at the bottom, back fill the hole with concrete (one 60 lb bag of concrete should be enough, maybe a 1/2 bag more). Check the plumb of the pipe and ensure that it is level all around, east/west and north/south.
You might want to use some straps or cables or boards to support the pipe so that it remains perfectly level while the concrete sets up. Keep checking the level frequently to make sure it does not move on you and be EXTREMELY picky about the level! You want it to be absolutely perfect!
When the concrete has set pretty well (after about 6 or 8 hours), backfill the hole with dirt and tamp it in good. Keep checking the level of the pipe as you go. Make sure that the dirt tapers up to the pipe so that water drains away from it. In 24 hours you can remove the supports and you should be ready to attach the motor and dish to the pipe and start aligning it.
If you think that you may ever have to remove the mast, you can omit the concrete to make the removal process easier, but you will need to modify the piping at the bottom. You will want two Tees with longer nipple pipes (6"-8") extending outwards. One Tee at the bottom and one 12" above that with the nipple pipe attached to it at a right angle to the ones below. The nipple pipes at the bottom should be set in line with the north/south axis. Then you will want to really tamp the dirt in good! A little bit of water may help, but not too much. Make sure you keep checking your level during the tamping process.
Remember, the dish is going to be subjected to the wind and the mast must be well anchored to prevent it from moving. A lot of force is going to be present on the mast when the wind blows against the dish.
Next, you will want to trench your cable in from the mast over to the house. That's not too difficult, but make sure that you ground the system properly at the point where the cable enters the house.
Use an RG-6 grounding terminal block and 8 gauge solid copper wire attached from the grounding block to a grounding rod. The grounding rod should be something like 5/8" X 8 foot and hammered into the ground right next to the house. If you are fortunate enough, you might be able to route your cable entry near the telephone service line or the electrical service line and use the grounding rod that is already in place there.
This grounding is required by law. It is not for the operation or protection of your satellite equipment as much as it is for the protection of your home. About two years back, I saw a neighbors house burn completely to the ground because of a lightning strike. There was nothing left at all! Make sure that you research the electrical code for your area to ensure that you do this according to local code.
For a very temporary fix to your setup, without all the digging and trenching and what not, you can try another avenue. I don't really recommend it, but a lot of people have this as their only option. Basically the same principle as what I have already stated, but instead of digging it into the ground, you plant the pipe in a 6 gallon plastic bucket and fill the bucket with concrete. This will be much better than your pallet, but not anywhere near as reliable as planting it in the ground.
I hope you find this information useful to you.
Radar
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