Sling adapter and Dish Online issues

[Centex]

I ordered a sling adapter last week. I hooked it up and it has never worked right. It will stay connected for maybe 10 minutes at a time.

I called Tech support and we walked through several steps--reboot receiver, reboot laptop and iPad, reboot router, reboot modem.

My internet comes in through a digital phone modem (Time Warner). That modem separates the telepone signal from the internet. The technician seemed to think that was the source of the problem.

FTR my internet typically runs around 12 mb down and 1 mb up.

Also, I have issues with Dish Online. It will not display the guide correctly, and it will not show what is stored on the DVR. I think these issues are related.

Does anyone know of a fix? Or am I better off packing up the sling adapter and sending it back to Dish? TIA for your help!

ETA: The receiver is connected to the internet via a Sling link using the electrical wiring

 

[TG2]

Need to know the brands and model numbers to investigate the devices and their abilities.

If you are using your own router/firewall .. like you could walk into a Best Buy and buy a Linksys router ... etc.. and you look at that devices' WAN or INTERNET port ... does it have the same IP address as you see when you go to: http://whatismyip.com ?

If your router/firewall shows a 10.x or a 192.168.x.x or 172.16.x.x ip address for the internet or wan port of the router.. then you're double natting.. and that can cause problems like this

If you aren't using your own router... then the DSL modem you have would be doing those functions.. and many of the DSL modem/routers out there seem to not have UPnP options.. if not. you need to manually set up ports to forward from your dsl modem, into the receiver.


As to DishOnline and the DVR/My Recordings not showing anything.. often times.. if you go to the web site ... log out ... wait for it to complete.. then manually log back in ... and then go back to the DVR/My Recordings page.. at that point hitting the "Refresh" button on the right side below the icon for your dish receiver... 2 or 3 times (wait for a minute between each press) may clear the problem.

The information you get here, is "cached" information .. an easy way to explain.. you delete something manually from your receiver at TV1 .. it could take a few minutes, or up to a day for this information to show up in the OnLine screens.

Generally the logout / log back in helps clear this.. but if your receiver isn't making proper oubound connection and communication with Dish's servers.. then you're not going to see the detail there until it does.. get out properly..

 

[Centex]

I am not at home at the moment, so I can't check model #s. I am using a netgear router. It came from Time Warner, but it is an off-the-shelf router.

What is double natting?

After I check, can you walk me through setting up ports? What your are saying seems to fit. It is as if there is a clog in the pipe between the receiver and the world. Stuff gets trhough sometimes, but sometimes not.

I will work on Dish Online, but like you said, if it is not getting through, it is not getting through.

Was Dish remote access cached? It seemed much more responsive than DOL.

I have a Linksys router that I can use if I need to.

Thanks for your help!

 

[TG2]

Yes.. they both use cached info ... though I can't speak to when they update or how other than hitting "refresh" in the respective "app" windows.

NAT itself is Network Address Translation... NAT allows you to have one real outside network IP Address, but use that for 5, 10, 5000 machines on the *inside* network. So I would suspect at home ... you have your Dish Receiver (more than one?) your home computer, your wifi phone, family that comes over with their wireless devices.. all of these are allowed to connect out through your 1 internet connection and NAT allows that.

Some ISP's, though seen more frequently with business class cable, almost a given if using DSL ... provide a "modem/router" ... the Modem side gets you connected into the broadband network .. the "router" side does NAT, and firewalling, may even include wireless .. etc..

The ISP figures they're doing you a favor ... even some customers might buy modem routers (cable or dsl) thinking "best of both in one" ... but what often happens is those devices have limitations and users end up getting another firewall/router or they want newer capabilities like N networking..

When you get that second Firewall/Router in there.. its set to do NAT by default.. so you have a NAT happening behind another NAT ... or double natting.

Where it becomes a problem ... the servers on the outside, for things like Sling ... get told your receiver is at "inside address X" ... and when the traffic comes to your house, the first device it hits doesn't know that internal address ... because that internal address is on the internal side of the *Second* router.

If that sounds like your home.. that's a problem (ie, they gave you a modem/router, you didn't like it or maybe it didn't have wireless so you got your own Netgear one?)

The *other* possibility ... is that you aren't doing double NAT, but that you're having problems with UPnP ..

UPnP is supposed to have devices like Xbox, Dish Receivers, even Peer 2 Peer network software ... operate with firewall/routers to tell them "hey I need anyone from the outside, coming at port X to come to *me*" The Firewall/Router then creates a set of rules, looking at traffic and allowing traffic coming into those ports.. to simply be forwarded internally.

UPnP can work.. but not all devices play nicely. And even if UPnP worked ok for your XBox and your Netgear.. maybe your PS3 doesn't like the netgear ... or your Wii doesn't .. etc..

And that's when you try falling back on manually opening ports ("port forwarding") to stuff inside your network. Port forwarding works best when you have static addresses inside ... static either because you can go into the networking screen and setup the ip address .. or because you tell the Netgear "i want this dish receiver at *that* ip address" and that's called Static DHCP.

One of the things I've seen issues with ... is that should a device have one address today .. and a different address tomorrow (the receiver reboots every day, its possible however slim, that something else could get that address during the reboot) or you have a power failure ... and when things come back up they're all asking for addresses ... and the first one to get it wins..
..... issue with .... is stability of the inside addresses for dish stuff.. remember "its cached" and that cache might incorrectly attempt to connect with the wrong internal address.. yesterday a power failure, today your dish receiver isn't X.101 .. now its X.105.

So that's why I recommend everyone setup static DHCP for their dish boxes.. and anything else that shouldn't change without need to ... laptops? wifi cell phones? yeah. they come and go.. no reason to set them with Static DHCP ... but do you have a wireless canon or HP printer? or the Dish receiver (I've got three) These are devices you don't want hopping to different addresses.. etc.

Anyway.. more on stuff after model numbers.. and checking your home network out.

 

[Centex]

Alright, I have some information about my home network.

I have a Motorola SURFboard SBV5220 Digital voice modem. It has 3 ports on the back--one for internet, 2 for telephone. (it supports 2 lines)

The internet port goes to the router. It is a Netgear WNR 1000v3 wireless router. The slinglink cable is plugged into one of the ports and into the wall. My 722k receiver is plugged directly into the wall.

That is my setup. I will be away from the house for a few days, so I cannot implement any solutions until Sunday. Thanks again for all your help!

 

[jaredbo]

I have had the same issues here recently with my sling adapters. I use the dish app for my iPhone to access my receiver and watch live programming. My receivers do not stay connected consistently to my home network as they are both connected wirelessly. I can watch tv on my phone but as soon as I stop watching the video and go back to the guide my receiver goes offline (I get the yellow light next to my receiver number) and it will not go back to green for another 30-45 mins! It just recently started doing this in the last month or so. Is this similar to what anyone else has experienced??

 

[TG2]

Alright, I have some information about my home network.
I have a Motorola SURFboard SBV5220 Digital voice modem. It has 3 ports on the back--one for internet, 2 for telephone. (it supports 2 lines)
The internet port goes to the router. It is a Netgear WNR 1000v3 wireless router. The slinglink cable is plugged into one of the ports and into the wall. My 722k receiver is plugged directly into the wall.
That is my setup. I will be away from the house for a few days, so I cannot implement any solutions until Sunday. Thanks again for all your help!

sorry for the delay ... had most of this typed in last night but hadn't hit submit (dog tired)

anyway.. some things to check

1. on the Netgear, look at the status page, you're looking for "WAN" or "Internet" or "IP Address" (or a combination of those words) ... looking to see what the Netgear thinks' its outside IP address is.
   
   compare what you find on the status page ... with the ip address you get when you go to What Is My IP Address - Shows Your IP Address if your netgear's ip address isn't the same you see in whatsmyip .. then you have a network issue to trouble shoot first ... ie. you may be doing double nat
   .
2. Check the UPnP settings in the WNR1000. From the user manual, it appears you can change the default time (30 mins? try 10 or 15?) and make sure the port forward is showing up (5101 -> IP of Dish Receiver)
   .
3. Setup Static DHCP (Netgear calls it "Address Reservation") for the Dish Receiver. That way if something happens (power wise) at home ... when things come back the receiver gets the same ip rather than changing..

 

[TG2]

I have had the same issues here recently with my sling adapters. I use the dish app for my iPhone to access my receiver and watch live programming. My receivers do not stay connected consistently to my home network as they are both connected wirelessly. I can watch tv on my phone but as soon as I stop watching the video and go back to the guide my receiver goes offline (I get the yellow light next to my receiver number) and it will not go back to green for another 30-45 mins! It just recently started doing this in the last month or so. Is this similar to what anyone else has experienced??

in researching the Centex's Netgear .. it never occured to me that UPnP might have a timeout issue.. and wonder too then if the default on any system is 30 mins.. or keep alive / open is a specific time period ... and then if the port is scrubbed .. it would leave you in such a state.. just theory ... did a quick search couldn't find other info on any protocol default.

 

[Centex]

Thanks TG2. I will work on it when I get home. I Mentioned in another thread that my house is covered by GFCI outlets. Could that be interfering with it as well?

 

[TG2]

Thanks TG2. I will work on it when I get home. I Mentioned in another thread that my house is covered by GFCI outlets. Could that be interfering with it as well?

and you're using the HomePlug to get connectivity? ... Thats a very likely possibility. TheKrell had mentioned not getting the "why's" behind GFCI causing issues.. it got me thinking.. so I did some research..
http://www.satelliteguys.us/dish-ne...ome-powerline-connection-how.html#post2633634
in that post I have links.. the first link in it.. gives a pretty good mockup of what the inside of a GFCI does ... and its the "transformer" in those descriptions that caught my eye .. by now most people know that the power companys across the USA have been wanting to be a supplier of Internet Service.. one of their biggest problems was that they had to work around transformers (bigger sure, but no less a similar issue) making the signal "jump" the transformer because otherwise the transformer itself would destroy the signal .. so GFCI is a smaller implementation ... but no less likely a problem to circumvent.

if you have two such adapters.. you might try using powerline from the ac outlet the Dish Box is in.. and see what your speeds are.. at various times, as well as how reliable the connection .. for all you know it could be a fridge motor turning on, and maybe that's just the kick it needs to cause problems there..

If you have a *wired* PC running windows, you could use Matt's TraceRoute, or Ping Plotter (free version) or even just start a continuous ping from that wired PC ... and check in once in a while to see if there have been any ping drops.. there really shouldn't be any ... I mean.. pc in your house, to the dish receiver (except on daily reboot/update check the receiver does)

but if you started the continuous ping at say.... 10 am .. and by 6pm .. if you have losses, something's wrong.. well.. potentially wrong, assuming no power failures, no reboots etc....

(start -> run -> cmd <enter> .... ping -t <ip.add.ress.of.dishbox> <enter> .. CTRL Break gives current stats CTRL C kills the command)

 

[Centex]

Well, I messed with it, and made the changes you suggested in post #7 above, but no joy. I could get it to work for a few minutes, but after a bit it would disconnect. I guess I need to get a wireless adapter or a bridge...

Do you have any suggestions for either? Right now, the only thing I would be attaching to it would be the 722k, but a bridge might be more flexible.

 

[TG2]

Did you ping your Dish Receiver repeatedly to make sure you were seeing ping drops? ... if not seeing pings drop .. there could still be an issue with your house router (Netgear). If the HomePlug device is working, the next most common failure for DRA/DO are issues with UPnP in the router (again guessing you always see the port 5101 mapped to the IP of the receiver)

The point is to make sure the cause of the problem is that the signal is interrupted from the homeplug/powerline adapter and its network path to the receiver. You can also move the power line adapter to be closer to the circuit panel, or onto a common line to the room your satellite receiver is in (depends on how your house is wired.. older houses I've lived in; tended to overload circuits)

If you decide for the wireless solution... there's a few schools of thought ...
1 - the wireless dongle from Dish is 25 dollars ... that's a fair price for a "guaranteed to work with" your receiver, wireless adapter. If you have a good distance between your receiver and your wireless router, you will probably need a USB extension cable so that you can plug in the extension and have 6 to 10 feet of movement from the receiver to place the wireless dongle.

2 - wireless bridge ... gives you standard ethernet out .... which means if you end up getting more devices (new bluray with out wireless, new TV, etc) you would only need to get additional ethernet cables and a switch (10 bucks for an inexpensive switch, and ethernet cables are 5 dollars or less for most average lengths on monoprice.com) If you needed to move the "bridge" to be closer to the wireless (signal interference, etc) you can get an ethernet cable up to 80 meters (100m per spec) that would allow you to move the bridge box, upto 300 or so feet.

So ... first be sure the powerline/homeplug adapter is the cause .. if it is.. let cost and potential expansion rule the decision. If you already have a crowded wireless environment, you may end up having to create a *second* wireless network, specifically for the bridged devices.

That's what I did in my case... instead of buying the 3 or 4 dongles at a total of over 180 bucks .. I bought two Buffalo N routers, one in bridged mode, one in regular Access Point mode, both running "HomeNetwork2" on N only. I was very happy with these, at 40 bucks each (80 total) but that's because I knew it would be more to buy all the specific dongles for my stuff..

As for specific parts ... Asus makes some decent products, though wireless is relatively newer for them (they are better known for motherboards and then video cards)
Newegg.com - ASUS RT-N10+ IEEE Wireless Router EZ N 802.11b/g/n Support up to 4 SSID in Business (Open source DDWRT support)
30 bucks, no tax, no shipping, 2 yr warranty, and directly supports DD-WRT if you have any problems out of box using it as a bridge, supports N
reviews are 4 out of 5 stars, the first two reviews (port forward) show some common issues (slow tech support response, and user's knowledge - port forwarding http / port 80 blocked by ISP) but nothing out of the ordinary ... not like Linksys's WRT120N (100 reviews 43% gave 1 star, issue with dropping wireless signals)

 

[Centex]

If it is a router issue, wouldn't it affect all my other connected devices? I have several other devices that periodically work through that router and none of them have any issues. I wirelessly stream music through pandora through that router to my connected Blu-Ray player. Tonight I connected a direct line from the receiver to the router, and it was still periodically dropping the connection. At this point, I am about ready to assume that this portion of the system is not ready for prime time and send the Sling Adapter back.

I don't have an extra PC to ping the router all day, so that is not a viable troubleshooting method.

I like the idea of the 2 N wireless routers and bridge them with the N channel. that leaves the G on the access router clear. One question, if I use the 2 routers, what would I need a switch for?

I really appreciate your help, but I am a little frustrated with this right now. I expected to plug it in and have it work.

Also, I really don't have any trouble watching shows on Dish Online on the 722. It seems to be able to stream down without issue.

 

[TG2]

1) router - UPnP is different and the Sling's need different from streaming audio.

• Most applications (streaming) send out a packet or stream of data to a server "hey I want 'you' to start streaming this content back to me" ...
• your router sees the *outbound* request... and is looking for a response to come back *in to* that outbound port.
• until server and application work to "end" the communications, the router will continue to hold open a path for any inbound traffic responding to the original outbound request.

UPnP and "Port Forwarding" these are used for "Servers" that you are running in your home network.

• Server (your dish receiver & sling adapter if it has one) is waiting for an outside connection
• you sitting at your PC start the WebSlingPlayer ...
  • • this registers your PC to the Sling Servers (dishXX.sling.com or dishonline) which work to authorize you to connect to your receiver
    • those *Dish* servers then hand back a "redirection" for the dish receiver in your network, to your PC ...
      "the sling server is running at X" (x is the IP address of your Internet Port on the router (wan port)
      .
• web sling player attempts to connect *IN* to X ...
• router looks at the Inbound port .. and then looks in its port forwarding table ... if the port is listed, the router forwards the traffic to the associated IP address in your network if the port is not listed, the router rejects the packets.

2) PC - Ping - use for the time you have (an hour or two/three/more, while you're doing other things?) ... if you can prove that the dish receiver stops responding to ping, randomly .. you then have a cause for problems (and that could be the powerline bridge or may not) One way to test if you find you are getting drops .. is to temporarily run a long ethernet cable (out a window if needed just for a few hours to see that pings are steady etc.)

3) using 2 separate routers to add an N network ...

if the router you set into "bridge" mode over at your dish receiver is one with 4 or 5 ports on it.. then you wouldn't need a switch

but if you bought a Wireless Bridge / Gaming Adapter .. they usually have 1 ethernet port.. for 1 device.. but will support more devices if you add the switch.

Cost, usability, compatibility ... you can let those help you decide which you want .. wireless routers that you can turn into bridges, or a bridge only device.

 

[Centex]

Alright. As you may have figured out, I am barely treading water with this stuff. I downloaded ping plotter, and I will work on it this evening. Just to be clear, I keep my Dish receiver hooked up via homeplug, and access my wireless network via my laptop.

I just thought of something, my Control 4 Controller is attached to my network via an ethernet cable, so I potentially have access to ethernet at my dish box. I would think that I would just need a switch to split that cable--one to the Control 4, one to each of my receivers (I have 2 in the same location--the 722 is the one that has sling, but I also have a 612 there. Of course, that may cause other problems...

I know I have said this before, but I really do appreciate your help.

Is it possible that the Motorola Telephone modem is the culprit?

 

[TG2]

1) Motorola phone? signal issues and bandwidth caps are always suspect.. but you've also had the issue with pc and ipad.


2) you have ethernet going into your Control4 receiver? ... and the other end connects directly back to your router? or does it go through any other type of bridge? ... if the wire is continuous (wire to switch, wire from there to home router) then yes.. a small switch there..
http://tinyurl.com/3mwso7n
newegg, "switches" sort by price, el-cheapo 11.99 plus 3 bucks shipping.

BestBuy has an outlet reman'd DLink w/free shipping 14.99

And if you're going to have to order ethernet cables (monoprice.com really is the cheapest good place)
http://tinyurl.com/3sgv5eo
they have an 8 port switch for 8.76 and 10 ft ethernet cables (in a rainbow of colors) for 1.68 each.

If you've been in need of any cabling supplies.. and you go to monoprice .. keep an eye on the shipping... buy in quantity .. that way you distribute the cost of shipping over more items.. ie.. why by 1 cable pay 9 dollars shipping. you can by 9 cables, and thus its like paying 1 dollar extra. Their Component Cables ... *wow* RG6 shielded coax with RCA's at the end... nice.. and their HDMI cables ... I got a yellow one so that I could use it when I'm laying it across the floor to my laptop so that people would see it easily..

 

[Centex]

1)Just to be clear, the Motorola is the modem that everything goes through. My ISP is Time Warner, and the cable comes into the modem and splits the telephone and internet signals. The Dish Tech Support guy thought that might be an issue. He had me call TWC to see if they did any kind of throttling, but they were no help.

The issues with PC and Ipad are coming from the Dish. When I use the Sling, does it go from 722k directly to PC, or 722k to dish server and back to PC?

2)Yes, I have an ethernet cable going from the Netgear Router directly to the Control 4. I did not set it up, and I had forgotten about it until last night.

I will look into a switch...

 

[TG2]

1) motorola... sorry... I had motorola phones on the brain..
Yes and No ... TWC probably blocks ports like SMTP (25) and HTTP (80) inbound ... but the port used by Sling is 5101 and would not normally be a port blocked.

BUT, it still could be causing issues in other ways. When you checked the IP address you got in your netgear and compared that to http://whatismyip.com ... did you get the same address? or did the Netgear show some form of 192.168.x.x, 10.x.x.x, or 172.16.x.x ip address (wan or internet port, not your inside LAN)??

If your wan port on the netgear showed one of those classes of private IP space (192.168.x.x / 10.x.x.x / 172.16.x.x) then you are double natting (conversion from real ip ... which is what "whats my ip" shows you, and then converting from TWC's internal, to your own internal)

Additionally ... just the modem firmware *could* be causing issues ... but generally this is difficult enough to prove, and wouldn't necessarily result in a quick fix unless its just a "feature" that needed to be turned on or off in the modem ... and most of that modem stuff you don't have access to (guessing the modem gives you a limited "look around" interface, rather than a "you can configure this half of the modem we'll configure the rest" type.)


3) How Sling works

• can relay - all info goes up to a sling/dish relay server, thus your upload speed limits the fastest and quality settings acheivable
  .
• can go direct - from outside your home network, or inside your home network, directly between where *you* are, and where your Sling is.
  .
• in *all* cases a command or "administrivia" channel is opened up to a Dish or Sling server.
  • • initial registration with PC
      • authorization - who are you?
      • what Slingbox (adapter) ID corresponds to your account and devices
      • device capabilities (both sides, you and your sling)
      • hand-off and logging - (Centex your Sling is at XYZ, and I'm now logging how things are going, your last connect, your command streams, etc)
    • stream quality
    • Revocation actions - you are no longer authorized (you logged in somewhere else? DISH Gestapo have shut you down? etc)

There is the potential to sling without outside servers but I'm not sure how that works... its not documented anywhere.. suspicions are that you run a tokenized server that intercepts attempts for sling devices to contact sling ... and issues back to them "we're ok, you're ok, user is ok" type messages..

 

[Centex]

What is my IP gives me the same IP as the IP address of the internet port of the Netgear Router.

I am pinging the Dish receiver now. I think I am doing it correctly--I input the IP shown on the broadband menu of the Dish Receiver. After 2 minutes I had a 100% packet loss. For most of the pings latency has been around 4ms. I had one ping where it was 41 ms.

I ordered a switch today. I am hoping that I can hardwire it to the router and fix this.

Could this be a router issue? If I got a different router do you think these issues would go away?

Alright, about every 3-4 minutes I see latency drop from 4-6 ms down to 41 ms. After about 20 minutes I had another 100% packet loss event.

 

[TG2]

(sorry for long post)

1) well the good news is getting the right ip ... if the ip's hadn't been the same then there would be a double nat issue, and at that you'd be at TWC's mercy.

2) could this be router issue? ... I looked up the specs at DD-WRT.com with their "Router Database" .. it says the WNR1000 v3 has 4 megs of flash, and 16 megs Ram... thats the minimum I would recommend for any average user ... with it, if you're supporting 3 or 4 inhouse devices (laptops, computers) you may find the internet slows down after longer periods of use, and if you could look at the memory usage (or at least with DD-WRT on it you could) you'd find under 800k memory free .... reboot, everthing gets faster and you have 1.4 megs free .... at least that was my general experience ..

Then I switched to routers that have 32 megs of ram, and haven't seen a slowdown issue, though I have seen other things come up (different versions of DD-WRT's replacment firmware can sometimes feel like a crapshoot)... but in general having 32 megs of ram is better for power users or larger house networks (10 to 15 active devices -- 5 computers/laptops, 4 multimedia <722k's - wii - bluray - AV receiver> , 2 iphones & an android)

BUT ... I'd wait on the router ... give the hard wire network a chance.. especially if the WNR1000 *has* been working with UPnP ... since that's often the real hangnail .. you've been getting a connection, the speed of the WNR is about average in todays home (dual band routers with 32 or 64 megs of ram would more likely be faster but marginal in a light duty environment) so no need to toss it just yet.


3) As to packet loss ... if you're seeing losses like that.. you're loosing network connectivity to the receiver ... all things being equal.. no rouge friend over downloading WOW or pulling down gigs of data, while running pings.. the only doubt becomes your pc connection to the wireless, like standing next to the microwave and flicking it on while testing ... *but* given what you've been experiencing up to this point .. the disconnects on streaming... it seems very likely the culprit is the Powerline adapter getting to the receiver.

Once you get the switch in place ... repeat the pings ... if you don't see packet loss.. then you're one step closer.

here's an example of mine (ran multiple tests at the same time for nearly 20 minutes of pings, still 0% loss)

Reply from 192.168.1.246: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64

Ping statistics for 192.168.1.246:
    Packets: Sent = 1145, Received = 1145, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
    Minimum = 1ms, Maximum = 19ms, Average = 1ms
Control-Break
Reply from 192.168.1.246: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64

In my case I opened a command prompt (Start -> Run -> CMD <enter>) then I put: ping -t 192.168.1.246 <enter>
the -t is for conTinuous .... press & hold CTRL then press the "Pause / Break" key and let both go... that will give you a read at that moment in time, of ping statistics.. (what I pasted above) Pressing CTRL C will stop the command.

a random high ping or two would be minor (since going across wireless and the Powerline bridge, could be wireless retransmit, could be noise in the AC line, etc..

though a single packet loss shouldn't cause communications to break down .. you never know with some apps (client - WebSlingPlayer or server-SlingAdapter/DishReceiver) they may have low tolerance for packet failure and its possible the packet failure could get worse if you put it under load...

with the command prompt PING command you can set a size of packet to use..

 ping -t -l 1024 192.168.1.246  <enter>

this would send continuous pings of 1024 byte packets (-l is -L for "packet Length") to one of my dish receivers ...

a little more than 5 minutes of ping packets at 1024 bytes:

Reply from 192.168.1.246: bytes=1024 time=2ms TTL=64

Ping statistics for 192.168.1.246:
    Packets: Sent = 343, Received = 343, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
    Minimum = 2ms, Maximum = 12ms, Average = 3ms
Control-Break
Reply from 192.168.1.246: bytes=1024 time=3ms TTL=64

So I actually had two sets of pings running at the same time, neither lost a packet ... even with a simulated load.. (its a ping every second so 1145 pings = 1145 seconds or just shy of 20 minutes with zero loss while typing up this massive thread response)