I have a superdish 121 connected to a dp34 and a 301 receiver. When I do switch test I get port 1 and 2 as "no connection". The single dp LMB connects just fine. Could there be a problem with the 119 and 121 LMBs? I tested the voltage at the LMBs and got a 18V reading, therefore it is receiving power. Any suggestions?
Superdish 121 and 119 LMB not connected?
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Yes, sorry for get to mention that 110 was on port 3 of the dp34 switch. I have tried to switch the ports so 110 is on port 1, 119 is on port 2 and 121 is on port 3 but no luck. When I run the test I get 110 is connected and is a dual, port 2 no connection, port 3 no connection. And yes, 110 is an LNBF, 119 is a DBS, 121 is a FSS. Thank you for welcoming me.ke4est said:Give us lot more details and yes when can help.....I assume you get 110 on input 3 you did not say.
Also Welcome to SatelliteGuys
Btw it is a LNB or LNBF assembly NOT LMB
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Rumi, I just did mine last week, get the pdf manual with the instructions in it.
First you hook up the outmost lnb in the superdish 121 it is the 110 satellite. Put that into port 1 of the 34, get your best signal strength with that in the port 1. Take the 110 out of the port 1 and put the one on the other side in port 1, that would be the 121 satellite in your case. Mark the mast elevation and azimuth with a sharpie and then put the 121 dish in there, go to the point screen and bring up 121. If its not there then you need to take a receiver upgrade. put the point dish screen on transponder 15, 16, 20 or 21 for a superdish 121. Get your best signal. Look at your marks and cut your best distance between the two.
Run the check switch with all 3 lnb's in there. port 1 gets 110, port 2 gets 119, and port 3 gets 121. It should find them all.
Good luck. I had to read it a couple of times before I got it right.
Tim
First you hook up the outmost lnb in the superdish 121 it is the 110 satellite. Put that into port 1 of the 34, get your best signal strength with that in the port 1. Take the 110 out of the port 1 and put the one on the other side in port 1, that would be the 121 satellite in your case. Mark the mast elevation and azimuth with a sharpie and then put the 121 dish in there, go to the point screen and bring up 121. If its not there then you need to take a receiver upgrade. put the point dish screen on transponder 15, 16, 20 or 21 for a superdish 121. Get your best signal. Look at your marks and cut your best distance between the two.
Run the check switch with all 3 lnb's in there. port 1 gets 110, port 2 gets 119, and port 3 gets 121. It should find them all.
Good luck. I had to read it a couple of times before I got it right.
Tim
Before finding the dishes, If I ran check switch shouldn't it tell me that the LNBs are connected and to which port? The problem I have now is that, I connected 110 to port 1, 119 to port 2, and 121 to port 3. When I do a check switch, I get:
Port 1: Dual LNB
Port 2: No Connection
port 3: No Connection
I know that the LNBs are connected because I can get a voltage reading from the LNBs of 18v. What can cause the receiver to display No Connection?
Port 1: Dual LNB
Port 2: No Connection
port 3: No Connection
I know that the LNBs are connected because I can get a voltage reading from the LNBs of 18v. What can cause the receiver to display No Connection?
rumi said:Before finding the dishes, If I ran check switch shouldn't it tell me that the LNBs are connected and to which port? The problem I have now is that, I connected 110 to port 1, 119 to port 2, and 121 to port 3. When I do a check switch, I get:
Port 1: Dual LNB
Port 2: No Connection
port 3: No Connection
I know that the LNBs are connected because I can get a voltage reading from the LNBs of 18v. What can cause the receiver to display No Connection?
I went and looked at my screen and it says dual 1, feed 1, and feed 1 port 1=110, port 2=121, port 3 =119
So run the switch check without the satellite cable from the dish in the back of the receiver and then put it in with the lnb's in the proper place. But you still have to follow the instructions to get it to come up right.
Tim
Here is a link to the manual, but you can google it by putting in
superdish installation instruction manual
http://www.satelliteone.com/dish/support/SuperDISH_Installation_Instruction_Manual.pdf
It has very specific instructions for the 121 superdish, just follow them exactly and it will work.
good luck
Tim
superdish installation instruction manual
http://www.satelliteone.com/dish/support/SuperDISH_Installation_Instruction_Manual.pdf
It has very specific instructions for the 121 superdish, just follow them exactly and it will work.
good luck
Tim
Apparently, you had an aiming problem. 
Make SURE you read the rest of that manual - especially the part that HHKR's installer forgot. You know, the one that says the final configuration should be:
Make SURE you read the rest of that manual - especially the part that HHKR's installer forgot. You know, the one that says the final configuration should be:
- 119
- 110
- FSS
Hi, I've got a similar problem so I thought I'd keep it in this thread.
I've got a 510 receiver and a superdish (105) and I just moved. I moved my dish myself, and have had few problems except the occasional signal loss because my dish is just temporarily fixed in the ground for now and gusting winds sometimes adjust it. However, the past few days I have lost all my local channels.
I've rebooted my receiver countless times, no dice. I was getting a strong lock on the 110 and 119 satellites, but when I run a check switch the result is
1. 119 - Dual
2. 110 - Dual
3. X - N.C.
I switched the cables going into ports 2 and 3 on my DP34, and ran a check switch. The result was
1. 119 - Dual
2. X - N.C.
3. 110 - Dual
I then completely switched the cables for the 110 and 105 lnb's to check and make sure I didn't just have a bad cable from the 105 lnb to the DP34. The result was that the 110 sat still showed up, but the 105 still reported N.C.
I called a local sat guy who had a brand new 105 lnb and picked it up. I swapped my 110 and 119 lnb's from my 105 arm to the new 105 arm and then hooked it all up again. The result is still the same,
1. Conn - Dual
2. Conn - Dual
3. X - N.C.
(the last time I ran the check switch my satellite was not in the ground anymore, as I'm preparing to permanently affix it with a strong pole mount)
Am I getting the N.C. reading simply because I haven't locked in the 105 sat? Shouldn't I at least get a "Conn" reading on my switch test indicating that an lnb is connected, just not locked onto a satellite? Because I get a "Conn" reading on my 110 and 119 lnb's, when they're not on the dish locked in (everything is in my basement right now while I troubleshoot) it leads me to believe that I should at least get a "Conn" reading on the 105 lnb as well, until it is out on the dish and locked in, in which case it should read as "105."
Surely I haven't got 2 bad 105 lnb's, right? Could this be something wrong with my switch? We have had freezing weather at night and temps up into the 40s during the day here, and when the installers originally swapped out my Dish500 for the SuperDish, they just used three zip ties to fasten my DP34 to the pole mount instead of using a weatherproof box like I see around town nowadays.
Unless there could be something wrong with my switch which disallows it to recognize my 105 lnb, I'm stumped. What should I try next?
I've got a 510 receiver and a superdish (105) and I just moved. I moved my dish myself, and have had few problems except the occasional signal loss because my dish is just temporarily fixed in the ground for now and gusting winds sometimes adjust it. However, the past few days I have lost all my local channels.
I've rebooted my receiver countless times, no dice. I was getting a strong lock on the 110 and 119 satellites, but when I run a check switch the result is
1. 119 - Dual
2. 110 - Dual
3. X - N.C.
I switched the cables going into ports 2 and 3 on my DP34, and ran a check switch. The result was
1. 119 - Dual
2. X - N.C.
3. 110 - Dual
I then completely switched the cables for the 110 and 105 lnb's to check and make sure I didn't just have a bad cable from the 105 lnb to the DP34. The result was that the 110 sat still showed up, but the 105 still reported N.C.
I called a local sat guy who had a brand new 105 lnb and picked it up. I swapped my 110 and 119 lnb's from my 105 arm to the new 105 arm and then hooked it all up again. The result is still the same,
1. Conn - Dual
2. Conn - Dual
3. X - N.C.
(the last time I ran the check switch my satellite was not in the ground anymore, as I'm preparing to permanently affix it with a strong pole mount)
Am I getting the N.C. reading simply because I haven't locked in the 105 sat? Shouldn't I at least get a "Conn" reading on my switch test indicating that an lnb is connected, just not locked onto a satellite? Because I get a "Conn" reading on my 110 and 119 lnb's, when they're not on the dish locked in (everything is in my basement right now while I troubleshoot) it leads me to believe that I should at least get a "Conn" reading on the 105 lnb as well, until it is out on the dish and locked in, in which case it should read as "105."
Surely I haven't got 2 bad 105 lnb's, right? Could this be something wrong with my switch? We have had freezing weather at night and temps up into the 40s during the day here, and when the installers originally swapped out my Dish500 for the SuperDish, they just used three zip ties to fasten my DP34 to the pole mount instead of using a weatherproof box like I see around town nowadays.
Unless there could be something wrong with my switch which disallows it to recognize my 105 lnb, I'm stumped. What should I try next?
Just an additional note:
I just noticed that when I touch my DP34 switch on the outside metal, I feel a faint tingle, the same type of tingle that I feel when I touch the copper conductor on any cable coming from the DP34 to an LNB. I'm guessing that this is the DC needed to power the LNB's, but I'm not sure why I'm getting the tingle just by touching the metal switch box.
Again, though, I AM getting a connection to the 119 and the 110 LNB's, just not the 105 LNB, and this is no matter which port on the sat-in side of my switch I connect the 105 LNB. And, this is with my original 105 and a brand new 105 LNB.
(Everything I have troubleshooted makes me think it's the 105 LNB just being bad, but what are the odds of getting brand new 105 LNB and it being bad too? I'm hoping for simplicity sake that I just need a new DP34 or something.)
I just noticed that when I touch my DP34 switch on the outside metal, I feel a faint tingle, the same type of tingle that I feel when I touch the copper conductor on any cable coming from the DP34 to an LNB. I'm guessing that this is the DC needed to power the LNB's, but I'm not sure why I'm getting the tingle just by touching the metal switch box.
Again, though, I AM getting a connection to the 119 and the 110 LNB's, just not the 105 LNB, and this is no matter which port on the sat-in side of my switch I connect the 105 LNB. And, this is with my original 105 and a brand new 105 LNB.
(Everything I have troubleshooted makes me think it's the 105 LNB just being bad, but what are the odds of getting brand new 105 LNB and it being bad too? I'm hoping for simplicity sake that I just need a new DP34 or something.)
Ayres: The FSS LNB often won't "report in" when it doesn't have a signal. You'll probably be fine once you're got good aim. Mak SURE that mast is dead plumb!
I'm concerned about that voltage on the DP34 case - sounds like you haven't grounded the system. Understandable while playing in the basement, but make sure you do it right on the final install!
I'm concerned about that voltage on the DP34 case - sounds like you haven't grounded the system. Understandable while playing in the basement, but make sure you do it right on the final install!
This is what I was hoping to hear! I'll go ahead and permanently fix the mast (2-foot hole with some quick-crete) and then get a weatherproof box for my DP34, then I'll continue troubleshooting and report back the good or bad news.
Thanks for the reply SS, I appreciate it. I was about to pull my hair out searching google for answers until I found these forums.
Ok, the mast is plumb. I used a level on all sides. It sits about 5' high at the top, not including the height of my superdish. I never changed the skew (109) and I set the elevation to about 42. Then I brought the dish around left and right to hit the same angle that I see on a few other dishes in the area.
I came in, looked at the signal meter, played with the dish, etc. I have, now, a strong lock on the 119 and 110 satellites again. My 119 sat actually is picking up two spotbeams on transponders 5 and 7, signal hitting 119 - 125. Most other transponders range in the 70 - 100 range on both satellites.
The 105 still does not report in. I have no idea what's going on. When I first set my dish up after I moved in (late Nov.), I had no troubles finding all three satellites. Now I can't even get the 105 to tell me that it's connected.
Is this still an aiming problem?
I came in, looked at the signal meter, played with the dish, etc. I have, now, a strong lock on the 119 and 110 satellites again. My 119 sat actually is picking up two spotbeams on transponders 5 and 7, signal hitting 119 - 125. Most other transponders range in the 70 - 100 range on both satellites.
The 105 still does not report in. I have no idea what's going on. When I first set my dish up after I moved in (late Nov.), I had no troubles finding all three satellites. Now I can't even get the 105 to tell me that it's connected.
Is this still an aiming problem?
Probably (although their can be other issues).
A SD can get 110 & 119 while being off-aim enough to miss 105/121.
You really should have a satellite meter - it'll answer these questions quickly.
Like many old-timers, I use the cheap ones. The more experience you have, the less hardware you need.
They are also all a consumer or amateur needs. It'll take you a while to learn how to use it, but if you have any interest at all, you'll find it's fun.
Here's the last ones I bought ($11.50 delivered):
http://cgi.ebay.com/SF-95-SATELLITE...itemZ5849673718QQcategoryZ11726QQcmdZViewItem
Don't worry if the auction's over - this guy always has them - just hit his eBay store. The tone feature isn't very good, but the meter is just fine.
I bought two to slap together to make a twin-meter for D500 110/119, and D1000 110/129 balancing. Also going to rig them to be self-powered.
Beats the blazes out of a $100-300 fancy-pants meter.
A SD can get 110 & 119 while being off-aim enough to miss 105/121.
You really should have a satellite meter - it'll answer these questions quickly.
Like many old-timers, I use the cheap ones. The more experience you have, the less hardware you need.
They are also all a consumer or amateur needs. It'll take you a while to learn how to use it, but if you have any interest at all, you'll find it's fun.
Here's the last ones I bought ($11.50 delivered):
http://cgi.ebay.com/SF-95-SATELLITE...itemZ5849673718QQcategoryZ11726QQcmdZViewItem
Don't worry if the auction's over - this guy always has them - just hit his eBay store. The tone feature isn't very good, but the meter is just fine.
I bought two to slap together to make a twin-meter for D500 110/119, and D1000 110/129 balancing. Also going to rig them to be self-powered.
Beats the blazes out of a $100-300 fancy-pants meter.
Gotcha, thanks for the link. I just ordered one and hopefully this will fix my problem. I don't understand why I had no problems picking up 105 before but now finding it is like looking for a needle in a haystack, but I'm all for trying everything possible before having to call Dish and go through their customer support rundown yet again. (I've rebooted my system and ran a check switch over and over until my cell phone drops the call or the battery dies - no landline yet).
Again, after I get the signal finder I'll report back the result.
Again, after I get the signal finder I'll report back the result.
Getting an fss bird without a meter is like having sex in a fiat in the dark with a 6'2" woman on your prom night, its hit or miss to find the sweet spot. Another cheaper alternative is to set up your receiver with a small tv outside by the dish and hook the sat cable directly to the receiver, this will allow you to see the signal on the tv and to fine tune it without having to buy a line powered meter. I know its a bit " you might be a redneck " but hey it works.
