vbox-x does give out "shocking" 38volts

[batzzz19]

i measured the volt on my meter when i press the east to west rotation on my vbox-x

so im good to go

i had a couple of questions too offtopic

does the chapparal feedhorn II with with polorator small motor work on ku band with mesh dish?


i found it impossible to make them work with does other cheap ku band c band lnbs

i found the titanium motor controller and polarization memory to be to expensive

i have that ricks satellite backhaul polarator homeade controller but dont have instructions anymore
since i lost the paper instructions that came with it, does anyone have an idea how to use it

 

[Magic Static]

The Chap Corotor II C/Ku feed will work fine on a mesh dish, if the mesh isn't too big. Using a C-Band dish for both C and Ku requires attention to detail, precision and quality equipment. ASC1 too expensive? I have LNBs that cost twice the price. I'm a firm believer in "You get what you pay for". But if you don't need/want too much you don't need the best stuff. One thing about this hobby is it fits most peoples budgets one way or another Ricks unit will control a polarotor. And you should be able to get a copy of the instructions emailed to you from him I would think. Another advantage to the ASC1 is the ability to fully power the LNBs on a Corotor no matter the polarity you are viewing. But most LNBs can run below spec(15-24v) at 13v on Vertical channels.

 

[KE4EST]

Another benefit to an ASC1 is the power supply in it can handle moving a dish with ease. How many volts does the vbox show under full load?

 

[Titanium]

Not just about the voltage. Voltage + Amperage = Lifting Power

G/Vboxes with the servo controller will be fine for most systems, but as Magic Static suggests, you will need an 18-20Vdc power inserter for the LNBs. The STB will need to be set for 13/18Vdc to work with the automatic servo controller kit, but LNBs do not perform well with only 13 volts and vertical polarity reception will suffer.

 

[richyrich]

And at the same time each req design of a C Band reception; the "band tuned" shows this also at 18v hor. as the signal level received is different across the entire band that the receiver can tunes. At the pol. level, it is how close to 90 degree's perfectly.

 

[batzzz19]

so yeah make sense to me the manual part of just messing with the polarities but in auto i will have to set the little potentionmeter on the side to get it right

right because make sence horizontal polarities would be like 90 degrees running on 18volts

because last time i connected the servo to the home made polarator turned out it only needs to trun 45 degrees form vertical to horizontal and or horizontal vertical

i do have the power inserter that came with that controller and going to mess with it once on since i have to much connected and dont know if i have 18v or 13v coming out to the lnb so that the controller unit will worlk.




i know there wont be a power issue since i just found out that is a power inserter

this is all i have that i found from this wonderful homemade automatic/manual controller a little paper:

NOTE: The "vertical" output voltage (about 13V) from an FTA receiver may be
too low for proper operation of some LNBs. In that case, a power inserter may
be used between the receiver and the LNB to supply a higher voltage (about
18V) for proper LNB operation.

i will be able to tell the degrees the way they go really by comparing or viewing the lnb as it moves inside

 

[Magic Static]

Actually the power supply that came with it is not for the LNBs, it is for the polarity control itself. It is made to run off the coax voltage or a power supply, your choice.
http://www.gofastmotorsports.com/apc1.htm

 

[Titanium]

A good value and readily available power inserter is the DirecTV pi-21. Usually less than $20 with free shipping on Ebay. It has approx. 2dB signal loss, so be aware that combined with the controller and VBox pass-through, the losses will quickly add-up.

 

[Cosmo Blatz]

A good value and readily available power inserter is the DirecTV pi-21. Usually less than $20 with free shipping on Ebay. It has approx. 2dB signal loss, so be aware that combined with the controller and VBox pass-through, the losses will quickly add-up.

Anyone know the insertion loss for the vbox?

 

[KE4EST]

3db

 

[Titanium]

That is why I previously used a splitter for separating the IF signals from the LNBs. Keep the high loss control equipment on a different leg and not introduce additional loss and noise.

The ASC1 was designed for low insertion loss. We conservatively rate the ASC1 at 2.5dB loss, but tests between 1.2dB and 1.5dB on production run units.

On a side note.... Had to chuckle when another site made mention that the ASC1 had high insertion loss when compared to the recommended superior controller that they were going to sell. Supposedly, the subscription service lost several channels when using the competitor controller.... Hmmmm??? Think the spec'd system has adequate headroom if 1.5dB pass-through causes full transponder, high SR C-band muxes to disappear? Sorry, even barrels and connectors have pass-through loss that can total 1 or 2 dB. Better mandate that an approved subscription service system's coax is hardline and 50' maximum length. Wonder what happens during weather events if 1.5dB insertion loss causes loss of service. Sorry just had to vent at stupid crazy claims... LOL!

 

[Cosmo Blatz]

Thanks for the spec Brian.

3 dB is nothing to sneeze at. Guess RG-8 and some low loss bypass switches are the way to go for max signal to the receiver. The bypass switches could be used to eliminate the vbox once the dish was on the desired bird. Bypass would only be necessary when looking for weak signals. Could be an interesting project. (Or just buy an ASC1.)

http://nlrs-10ghz.blogspot.com/2011/11/microwave-coaxial-relay-alternatives.html

 

[Titanium]

RG-8 is 50ohm, so that wouldn't be best used with 75ohm equipment. If you want better performance, yet flexible coax check out RG11 or QR 320. For extreme low loss hardline coax check out QR 1125.

 

[batzzz19]

something i got off topic as well, is

i only have one line of rg-11 cable the orange color underground

so, how do i connect the ku band side and the c band side to one line, like the wsi linear ku band & cband cheap lnb does with the 22KHZ SWITCH


LNB A WS INTERNATIONAL LNB B
0KHZ 22KHZ SWITCH MODEL 22KHZ
WS22K FREQUENCY 950-2400MHZ

 

[Titanium]

You answered your own question! With a 22KHz switch... There goes another 1.5dB...

One leg to the C-band LNB the other leg to the KU LNB then out to the single coax line into the house.

 

[batzzz19]

is it the same for a chaparral feedohorn with these lnbs the same too?
with the same kind of switch?

 

[Magic Static]

Yes it's the same... just like this

 

[batzzz19]

hey thanks all, i got some work to do and ill be taking pictures along the way when i can