Why not hook both up & then decide which 1 you like better as far as picture quality. It's all in the eye of the beholder.....................of the remote.
Which HDMI cable should i get for my TV?
- Thread starter cinnabun93
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Why not hook both up & then decide which 1 you like better as far as picture quality. It's all in the eye of the beholder.....................of the remote.
The bandwidth in this case is BS. It doesn't make any difference that it has a wider bandwidth as the signal that it is transporting isn't that wide anyway. It's all just psycho-babble.
stardust3 said:
HDMI is digital. It works or it doesn't. There will be absolutely zero difference between a $5 monoprice cable and $2000 audioquest. Its all snakeoil marketing for the mon$ter cables, etc.
Boosted, I'm not picking on you personally, you were just the latest with digital works or it doesnt.
Without getting in to inexpensive vs. brand (hint I don't use brand name cables) there's this myth constantly perpetuated that digital either works or it doesn't. Not true.
The satellite signal is digital, yet it has dropouts and errors. Same is true of OTA. The same is true of an ethernet cable, a computer and its memory or a bluray disk. One of the keys is building a robust delivery system which can detect and correct minor errors.
With HDMI, to properly pass it has to create a correct cats eye pattern on the test signal. Expensive and cheap cables pass. Expensive and cheap cables fail. Theres far more than just this one pattern too. Its just the one I've played with.
One such item not often discussed is what are referred to as "sparklies". These are bit errors in red, green or blue and they appear randomly on the screen. This effect is exacerbated when you start working with front protection systems. These tend to start in the 8' (96") diagonal range.
I ran into significant issues with sparklies on the run from my equipment room to the projector which is 45'. The only solution I could get that removed them was an hdmi/cat 5 balun that split out the signal channels and the ddc across separate cables. That adapter wasnt cheap and I had worked with both expensive and budget cables prior to this.
HDMI has very high bandwidth requirements - full hd @ 60p is in excess of 5 gbits/second. As we add in 3d the bandwidth requirements get higher.
Cable construction matters, but it does not have to be expensive. Over short runs, poor quality might not matter as much, over long runs it could haunt you. Now "quality" above does not necessarily mean big $. It means paying attention to wire gauges based on length of the run, acceptable attenuation, and correct termination at the connector ends.
Generally, short runs aren't as finicky as long runs.
Back to our previous discussion now.
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No problem. It's just much easier to follow a discussion when it is located in a single thread.
You are absolutely correct. I think the main reason for this myth is that most digital interfaces have some mechanism for error detection and error correction. For example, when a data packet is damaged or lost on the network, it is automatically resent. As a result, network errors usually cause traffic slow-downs, but do not result in any data damage or data loss. Unfortunately, this is not the case with HDMI: this digital interface does not have any error-correction mechanism (at least not for image data). Communication errors can manifest themselves as "sparklies". But as you also pointed out, this is usually not an issue on short cable runs. So, most cheap HDMI cables will work just fine.
Sure, you can use your shorter existing Monster brand cable with your Dish receiver!
Sell the monster cable on eBay or craigslist and use the other one, or by a new short one from Monoprice. Make some money out of it.
Steve Mehs said:
Please buy this HDMI cable, you will single handedly support out economy this way!!!!!
No seriously, obviously tons of people know what they are talking about, pretty much the cheapest HDMI cable in the length you need is what you should get, unless ofcourse you are a stock holder in Monster Cable.
The sparklies that you are referring to has more to do with saturation levels in the set that is being worked with. It isn't related to data loss. Length always has an effect as it has to do with attenuation and a certain point the digital data is lost. As far as the bandwidth you are talking about on That is the high end freq but you aren't giving the actual bandwidth. As far a 3D adding to needing my bandwidth that is incorrect. 3D is just a codec added to the signal and not a higher freq.
I had two paths, one through the ceiling, one across the floor for a short time. Only sparklies through the ceiling and vanquished across the floor and when switching to the cat 5 feed.
No adjustments to any controls on the projector.
Don't have it in front of me but thought the spec called for 30m without equalization.
You use proper gauge based on distance,to avoid excessive attenuation.
For RGB
1920h x 1080v x 60fps x 24 bits per pixel its about 3gbits/second.
For 24p its about 1.2 gbits/second.
Haven't crunched the YCrCb numbers.
I see in my earlier post I swyped 5. My bad.
Output to the display is a wash at minimum, 1/2 vertical res @ twice the frame rate.
Higher res 3d will be next.
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That also can be traced to introduction of noise. Especially if there is florescent lighting involved. I've had problems with data being lost in lines running across florescent fixtures (noise from ballast) between an input device and a PC.
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