Wish Me Luck-Morning Salvage Ops Ahead!

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The paint was that Krylon Fusion paint for plastic. Said satin finish. I was disappointed, too. I may buy a can of clear flat finish if I can find it and cut some of that gloss.

The foot is off of a D* dish I had laying around. I have 2 P* roof mounts that I could have gotten the bigger foot off, but the sg-2100 will have the standard arm on it and I didn't order the 50mm arm, so I have to go with the D* mount. Only thing I have to work on is the jackscrew, but I have to wait until I get the motor to see really what I need to rig up.

My multiswitch will be here Thursday so I can get the polarities combined on the P* LNB, so I will be good to go soon, I hope. :D

Tomorrow is bury the conduit day, I have a particular pain in the butt angle to make to go up my house's outside wall so I have to go back to HD and get some different sweeps and some 45 degree plumbing fittings to try and make it work. I don't want to use a 90 because I'll never pull a wire through the plumbing 90. ;)

Buy electrical conduit fittings , NOT plumbing fittings . Conduit is made to pull wire through .

Wyr
 
de-gloss the paint

Prior to repainting, try a little steel wool.
Or a ScotchBrite pad.
Just give it a light wipe.
Should knock the shine off.
And if you're not happy, then you can always try your clear matte.


I'd like to dirty-up my bright-white Fortec, and will keep an eye out for inks, dirt, shoe polish, and whatever else I can think of to camouflage it (without making it shiny).
 
Wyr,

The plate is aluminum. MUCH lighter than the 3" pole mount that was on it. :D
My Uncle the retired ironworker tried and tried to get me to use STEEL...took me a few minutes to explain the weight issue...LOL...speaking of weight I need to break out my fishing scale and see how much it DOES weigh.

And as far as the conduit issue, I have an angle to make up that gray electrical conduit won't make. My dimwit concrete finisher, when he built my house, messed up and left a 5 inch ledge OUTSIDE of the brick, along a part of my back wall. SO when I angle up from the trench I am going to need to go IN at a 45 degree angle before I go UP along the wall, if that makes any sense. So the plan is to use a gentle electrical sweep out of the ground then use a plumbing 45 close to the wall to go up vertically along the wall. I am using 1" conduit and I am only planning on pulling one wire inside of it right now and leaving a string inside if I want more later.

That's the plan, anyway. :)
 
I ended up using a 45 sweep, then a short length of pipe, then another sweep. All conduit. Looks real good and wasn't hard at all to put the cable through. Now I need to make my home run to my living room TV and terminate it and I'll be good to go.
 
I have another question. I am going to use a multiswitch to combine the H/V of the P* LNB. How do I set that up in the Coolsat 5K menu?

And all the switches have to be AFTER the motor, right?

In other words, out of the reciever to the motor, out of the motor to the diseq switch, out of the diseq switch into the multiswitch, two outs to the H/V on the LNB. Correct? Actually right now I only have one dish so I probably won't need the diseq switch yet. Just the multiswitch.
 
If its just a 2 x 4 (or 3 x 4) multiswitch, no need to set anything up in the receiver menu. When the receiver sends 18V (a horizontal transponder), the switch will select the horizontal LNB output automatically. When the receiver sends 13V (vertical transponder), the switch will go to the vertical LNB output. Just make sure that the 13V input on the multiswitch is connected to the vertical LNB output and the 18V is connected to horizontal :)
 
In other words, out of the reciever to the motor, out of the motor to the diseq switch, out of the diseq switch into the multiswitch, two outs to the H/V on the LNB. Correct? Actually right now I only have one dish so I probably won't need the diseq switch yet. Just the multiswitch.

correct

recever----------motor----------diseqc---------------multiswitch----------LNB
 
correct

recever----------motor----------diseqc---------------multiswitch----------LNB

Thanks again Ice. I got the multiswitch in this afternoon, I can see horizontal transponders! Only problem is that the H transponders are 20 % lower quality than the V transponders. I don't know if its the LNB or not, I have about 10 of them laying around, won't be any problem swapping it out To see.
 
Wyr,

The plate is aluminum. MUCH lighter than the 3" pole mount that was on it. :D
My Uncle the retired ironworker tried and tried to get me to use STEEL...took me a few minutes to explain the weight issue...LOL...speaking of weight I need to break out my fishing scale and see how much it DOES weigh.

And as far as the conduit issue, I have an angle to make up that gray electrical conduit won't make. My dimwit concrete finisher, when he built my house, messed up and left a 5 inch ledge OUTSIDE of the brick, along a part of my back wall. SO when I angle up from the trench I am going to need to go IN at a 45 degree angle before I go UP along the wall, if that makes any sense. So the plan is to use a gentle electrical sweep out of the ground then use a plumbing 45 close to the wall to go up vertically along the wall. I am using 1" conduit and I am only planning on pulling one wire inside of it right now and leaving a string inside if I want more later.

That's the plan, anyway. :)




Gently heat the PCV conduit and you can bend it like a wet noodle . We use a heat gun . Take a lonf skinny box and cut a hole in either end , just long enough to let you run the PVC through the box . Cut a hole in the side of the box , in the middle , to insert the " nose " of the heat gun . This makes an " oven " to contain the heat . Slowly heat the PVC , rotating it , and moving it in and out of the box , heating as long a section as you need to heat .

When you get the PVC flexable ( do not let it colapse , plugs can be inserted in either end , air pressure will help keep it " inflated " ) . Wearing gloves , ahape it as you need , but do not kink it . When " right " usr water to cool it before you mess up and let the shape go " wrong " .

A hair dryer may work instead of a heat gun .

I have used the tail pipe of a pickup truck for 1/2" & 3/4" , maybe 1" . If it has single exhaust . Dual exhaust diverts too much of the heat to the other pipe to work . Prop a weight on the accellerator ( or get an assistant ) to idle the engine 1500 - 2000 rpm , to get enough heat .

Slowly shove the PVC up the exhaust pipe as it softens , untill you get enough that is soft enough to make your bend . The end of the PVC mau " bell " form the heat or distort . Slip a PVC coupling over the end , to keep it " true " enough to glue more PVC on it , if needed .

Do not over doo it . Cool with water when you get it " right " .

Friends do not let friends pull wire through plumbing fittings . :)

You can make your 90's & 45's and any thing else this way .

Pulling a string with the coax , is a good Idea , although it often winds its way around the wire so bad it is difficult to pull another wire in , at a latter date . I would suggest pulling in a spare coax .


Wyr
 
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Check out the liquid tite flex conduit, you can put a section of that in where you need bends like that.

Or CarFlex , flexable PVC LiquidTite by Carlon . Or maybe ENT -> Electrical Non-Metalic Tubing ( Smurf-Tube ) .

Be sure to check the UV resistance of all these products where they are exposed to sun light . Or wrap with black tape .

Wyr
 
I made it work with all conduit fittings, and I do plan on putting a 'spare' in there for future use.

That was good info about bending conduit with heat ,though. I did think about doing that, but I dismissed it once I figured out what combination of sweeps and straight pipes would give me what I needed. :)
 
I know a lot of the left over LNBs from Dish or Direct are circular polarity. Were you able to pickup any linear LNBs? On that note, how good are the Dish/Direct linear Ku LNBs for FTA use?
 
I know a lot of the left over LNBs from Dish or Direct are circular polarity. Were you able to pickup any linear LNBs? On that note, how good are the Dish/Direct linear Ku LNBs for FTA use?


I have about 10-12 P* LNB's in my collection, as well as about 6 P* 84e oval dishes, but only three mounts. I have some old D* circular lnb's I may eventually cut the neck on and rig something up on one of those 84e's, I have 4 degree spacing dual LNB mounts on the few lnb arms that I do have.

But that's for later. :)
 
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