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OK this is just plain weird.
Hooked up a 4x1 Diseqc switch (DMSI) to the Coolsat 8000
port 1 is G4/G10 setup (22k switch involved)
port 2 is a feed from motor and a LNB at 87W (again 22k involved)
port 3 is from 74/85 (again 22k switch involved)
port 4 is a straight shot from 93 (no 22k switch
)
all work except for port 4. It will sometimes stick but then get no signal....OK so I thought it was the switch....swap switches...same thing
Tried new cable...same thing
Swapped inputs....put 93 on port 3 and 74/85 on port 4....93 works but 74/85 does not.
I even tried the old switch LNB LO to 10000 and then back to 10750. This usually solves the trick...nothing (and yes I have an active TP set in)
Anybody else with a Coolsat 8000 experience this? Where one port just won't work?
Hooked up a 4x1 Diseqc switch (DMSI) to the Coolsat 8000
port 1 is G4/G10 setup (22k switch involved)
port 2 is a feed from motor and a LNB at 87W (again 22k involved)
port 3 is from 74/85 (again 22k switch involved)
port 4 is a straight shot from 93 (no 22k switch
)all work except for port 4. It will sometimes stick but then get no signal....OK so I thought it was the switch....swap switches...same thing
Tried new cable...same thing
Swapped inputs....put 93 on port 3 and 74/85 on port 4....93 works but 74/85 does not.
I even tried the old switch LNB LO to 10000 and then back to 10750. This usually solves the trick...nothing (and yes I have an active TP set in)
Anybody else with a Coolsat 8000 experience this? Where one port just won't work?
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2586 views
couple of thoughts to ponder
1). it's unclear, but appears the some receiver can send diseqc commands several times, if you wish.
- is that something you could try ?
2). the 12 or 18 volt DC power has a small 22khz tone impressed on it, with an amplitude of about .6 volts (from memory, see the specs if you care)
So, that means the 12 would vary from 11.7 to 12.3 at the 22khz rate, etc.
3). on MyTheatre forum, they have mods to cheap diseqc switches to handle the lower 22khz tone bursts that Twinhan cards put out.
- real switches don't seem to have a problem with 'em.
- maybe change switches, and see what happens...?
4). here's one I like: if a switch doesn't pass power to inputs which are off, but have other switches (not LNBs) on them, what happens when that switch-port is reselected?
- does the receiver initialize the 2nd level switch properly?
- does the 2nd level switch have time to properly power-up?
- this could be a timing problem with the receiver.
5). I think there are several failure modes to diseqc switches:
a - doesn't pass through the signal
b - doesn't send power to the LNB
c - selects more than one source (but perhaps only one is powered)
d - sends power to more than one LNB, but selects signal from only one
- (c) & (d) seems to be quite insidious.
there isn't a lot of isolation between input ports, so having live LNBs could cause cross-talk.
(I actually read about a cross-talk problem here on the forum - user had two powered LNBs and a diseqc switch)
If all else fails, change the receiver. -
1). it's unclear, but appears the some receiver can send diseqc commands several times, if you wish.
- is that something you could try ?
2). the 12 or 18 volt DC power has a small 22khz tone impressed on it, with an amplitude of about .6 volts (from memory, see the specs if you care)
So, that means the 12 would vary from 11.7 to 12.3 at the 22khz rate, etc.
3). on MyTheatre forum, they have mods to cheap diseqc switches to handle the lower 22khz tone bursts that Twinhan cards put out.
- real switches don't seem to have a problem with 'em.
- maybe change switches, and see what happens...?
4). here's one I like: if a switch doesn't pass power to inputs which are off, but have other switches (not LNBs) on them, what happens when that switch-port is reselected?
- does the receiver initialize the 2nd level switch properly?
- does the 2nd level switch have time to properly power-up?
- this could be a timing problem with the receiver.
5). I think there are several failure modes to diseqc switches:
a - doesn't pass through the signal
b - doesn't send power to the LNB
c - selects more than one source (but perhaps only one is powered)
d - sends power to more than one LNB, but selects signal from only one
- (c) & (d) seems to be quite insidious.
there isn't a lot of isolation between input ports, so having live LNBs could cause cross-talk.
(I actually read about a cross-talk problem here on the forum - user had two powered LNBs and a diseqc switch)
If all else fails, change the receiver. -
M
I have tried a new receiver and originally it worked. The 1500 would run all 4 ports. Now port 4 doesn't work again
Oh well....today may be try a 4th switch day....and yes I am turning off the receiver when switching out the switch
I know the receiver sends diseqc commands every time I change the channel. The port with the 22k on I can actually hear it "click" when I change to a channel that the 22k uses (which at the time was 87W...I have since put that on the 0k side)
when I had 7 LNB's on it (ports 1-3 had 22k switches) the switching worked fine except for port 4 for some odd reason. Even when I had just 4 LNB's on it and no 22k switches port 4 wouldn't work
5). I think there are several failure modes to diseqc switches:
a - doesn't pass through the signal
b - doesn't send power to the LNB
c - selects more than one source (but perhaps only one is powered)
d - sends power to more than one LNB, but selects signal from only one
- (c) & (d) seems to be quite insidious.
there isn't a lot of isolation between input ports, so having live LNBs could cause cross-talk.
(I actually read about a cross-talk problem here on the forum - user had two powered LNBs and a diseqc switch)
If all else fails, change the receiver. -
I have tried a new receiver and originally it worked. The 1500 would run all 4 ports. Now port 4 doesn't work again
Oh well....today may be try a 4th switch day....and yes I am turning off the receiver when switching out the switch
I have tried a new receiver and originally it worked. The 1500 would run all 4 ports. Now port 4 doesn't work again
Oh well....today may be try a 4th switch day....and yes I am turning off the receiver when switching out the switch
Don't know whether this will help figure out the problem or not, but try the new switch and setup with the Pansat 1500 first and let it run for a while (if it works) before switching to the Coolsat 8000. It sort of sounds like the Coolsat 8000 is doing something to port4 causing eventual total failure on the port, but the Pansat 1500 could still use it for a bit before total failure.
Of course, it real sounds like you have gremlins living in your switches lately!
M
Well I guess I need to read the "Tip of the Iceberg" more often 
the first post I ever did on that was simple
Maybe I should addend that to this
yes I turned off the Coolsat 8000 but the feed from the motorized the other port was hooked to the Coolsat 5000 which was still powered on
turned off both receivers, swapped switches and now its working
the first post I ever did on that was simple
Maybe I should addend that to this
yes I turned off the Coolsat 8000 but the feed from the motorized the other port was hooked to the Coolsat 5000 which was still powered on
turned off both receivers, swapped switches and now its working
Glad you caught the problem and all is working now I've come very close to frying switches on numerous occasions, I think the problem for me is that my mind is engaged on the work at hand and sometimes I don't think about taking that precaution.
I've come very close to frying switches on numerous occasions, I think the problem for me is that my mind is engaged on the work at hand and sometimes I don't think about taking that precaution.
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Hello everyone, new guy here. I'm trying to solve problem I'm having with Dish bonus view channels. When I'm watching the bonus view channels then I switch back to regular dish channels, after few minutes the screen flips to black and after 30 seconds flips back to regular channels and continues to flip back and forth until I turn off TV. After I wait 30 minutes and turn back on , I can use regular channels again. So, its after I switch from bonus view channels to regular dish channels the problem starts. Been trying to fix this for a month, but no luck
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
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Hi all, I recently inherited a FTA system off Craiglist and have been trying to get it set up. What I got was a Glorystar-branded ~90cm offset dish with a ground mount (/flat roof) frame, and GEOSATpro DSR200c receiver. From that initial equipment, I've replaced the old LNBF with a (cheap!) new one and also splurged on an SG-2100 H-H motorized rotor which does respond from the receiver's USALS menu.
The previous owner had it set up for religious programming on Galaxy 19 and I've been trying to start by finding that same bird at least. After a couple sessions I'm not sure I have, but I've found *something* at least! A handful of motor ticks further than the dish wants to be for 97W after starting from motor 0 pointing as much south as I can guess at. (I don't have great references to aim for and it's really hard to sight where exactly the dish is pointing anyway….)
Anyway, so far there's only one transponder that I've ever been able to catch as I search. It's 12146 V and when the receiver scans it I get this list of video channels:
but it's a long-winded spiel about "you know us as an industry-leading satellite solutions provider with over a quarter million sites" and to call them For All Your Every Needs™ type thing.
While I get little blips from other frequencies, this is the only strong transponder I've been able to come across. My receiver shows it as S 75 and Q up to 85 when I adjust it. It actually seemed to get better as I **un**skewed my LBNF — iiuc G19 was supposed to be -20º for me but however I'm supposed to be reading/referencing the angles the puck is now basically at 0º relative to the dish/arm got the strongest on this transponder.
Anyway sorry this is so long winded already… my question is, do I even have the right satellite? None of the other transponders that are supposed to be active on G-19 seem to come in. And if not the right satellite does anyone happen to recognize which one I might have found instead? I think knowing that would help me then adjust for a truer south aim and then hopeful the USALS will work automatically once I can get it dialed in.
The previous owner had it set up for religious programming on Galaxy 19 and I've been trying to start by finding that same bird at least. After a couple sessions I'm not sure I have, but I've found *something* at least! A handful of motor ticks further than the dish wants to be for 97W after starting from motor 0 pointing as much south as I can guess at. (I don't have great references to aim for and it's really hard to sight where exactly the dish is pointing anyway….)
Anyway, so far there's only one transponder that I've ever been able to catch as I search. It's 12146 V and when the receiver scans it I get this list of video channels:
- 1.1 Srv_1
- 2.84 OU_Chan
- 3.2 Srv_2
- 4.5 Srv_5
- 5.3 Srv_3
- 6.4 Srv_4
- 7.6 Srv_6
- 8.7 Srv_7
but it's a long-winded spiel about "you know us as an industry-leading satellite solutions provider with over a quarter million sites" and to call them For All Your Every Needs™ type thing.While I get little blips from other frequencies, this is the only strong transponder I've been able to come across. My receiver shows it as S 75 and Q up to 85 when I adjust it. It actually seemed to get better as I **un**skewed my LBNF — iiuc G19 was supposed to be -20º for me but however I'm supposed to be reading/referencing the angles the puck is now basically at 0º relative to the dish/arm got the strongest on this transponder.
Anyway sorry this is so long winded already… my question is, do I even have the right satellite? None of the other transponders that are supposed to be active on G-19 seem to come in. And if not the right satellite does anyone happen to recognize which one I might have found instead? I think knowing that would help me then adjust for a truer south aim and then hopeful the USALS will work automatically once I can get it dialed in.
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Done and done and done! I ended up doing a bit more iteration (back and forth between the left-right and up-down adjustments) but I've now got it landing on G19 at its default position for 97W.
Yep, ended up with a page or two full on my receiver's search. Didn't double-check that my receiver has all six of the right transponders but I can mess with that later if it turns out I'm missing something interesting but still DVB-S / MPEG-2 compatible.
Yep, can see definite signal degradation as soon as I skew the LNB either way from "straight" (seam on the LNB lined up with the clamps on the mounting bracket). Will make setup easier if I want to try swapping anything else in!
I don't know if there's any good (unencrypted, DVB-S) satellite farther away to really check the sweep against, but I was at least able to program in my original find at 101.0 W back in (now at the correct "12000 V 20000" setting) and can get both birds automatically.
Shouldn't be *that* exciting since it's just an ad, but still really fun to choose channels on the other one and have it jog over and lock on
B
beside 123W, another one to try (if it's above the horizon at your location) is Hispasat @30W. It has at least 2 DVB-S transponders with SD/Mpeg2 channelsDone and done and done! I ended up doing a bit more iteration (back and forth between the left-right and up-down adjustments) but I've now got it landing on G19 at its default position for 97W.
Yep, ended up with a page or two full on my receiver's search. Didn't double-check that my receiver has all six of the right transponders but I can mess with that later if it turns out I'm missing something interesting but still DVB-S / MPEG-2 compatible.
Yep, can see definite signal degradation as soon as I skew the LNB either way from "straight" (seam on the LNB lined up with the clamps on the mounting bracket). Will make setup easier if I want to try swapping anything else in!
I don't know if there's any good (unencrypted, DVB-S) satellite farther away to really check the sweep against, but I was at least able to program in my original find at 101.0 W back in (now at the correct "12000 V 20000" setting) and can get both birds automatically.
Shouldn't be *that* exciting since it's just an ad, but still really fun to choose channels on the other one and have it jog over and lock on
No luck finding this one. I motor over and it seems like a pretty dead spot of sky. I did get a slight blip (Q up to 1% or 2%) if I lowered the dish slightly. So I wonder if my polar mount itself maybe needs a bit of fine tuning?
Even when loosening the bolts and manually nudging the dish up/down/left/right nothing seemed to really wake it [new receiver, see below!] up and never saw anything more than 4% or 5% which I don't know is even real or could have been just noise?
I'm in Washington state (northwest CONUS) so this one's not an option for me.
I now have a V8 Finder 2
I've been able to scan in more now on G-19, and as well as watching the ad on SES 1 and getting some PBS stations there and G-16 both. So three satellites kinda in the general vicinity of each other (97W/101W/99.1W) programmed and able to rotate between.
Is G-18 at 123W as strong as the others? According to Satbeams I should be at least somewhat in its footprint although it looks like it's maybe focused more on Alaska.
Now that I'm back at my computer waiting for the Finder to charge back up looks like the Eutelsat(s) 117W have a couple Ku transponders I could look for too.
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I'm having trouble finding a for sure answer on this. When I first started diving back into satellite stuff I noticed the GT Media V8 Finder2 which looks pretty cool and relatively low price point. But I can't find an answer, seems like some people (and Amazon's own AI guesser-bot) say it doesn't support motors.
The manual itself (the PDF that I found is named 20220718043903GTMEDIAV8FINDER2.pdf and it's on page 6 of 8) does show on the installation screen a "Motor Setup" menu item and says "If select DiSEqC1.2 or USALS, we can press ◀︎▶︎ to select IF Channel, and use number key to input Center Frequency."
Which…… the USALS part seems promising, but I don't know what IF and Center frequencies have to do with anything? Can it drive the motor off its battery for one, and does it have options for e.g. using the ◀︎▶︎ arrows to change the aim and save adjustments?
The closest I've found to real-world experience here is in Long shot with TBS6909X card where someone is talking about a different rotor and says:
> when I connect my V8 Finder 2, it immediately moves the dish if it's not in the correct position
which seems really promising! Moving the dish is what I'm after here, with something newer than the old MPEG-2 receiver I have now. Even for other receivers its really unclear if motor support is just pretty much a safe assumption that they don't even mention it anymore?
The V9 Prime actually looks pretty nice too and assuming it runs motors maybe that'd be better than the V8 Finder 2 for actual long term use since it has networking. But I'm having trouble finding listings for it (and actually most other receivers I see mentioned here) on Amazon or eBay or even Aliexpress. I'm wanting a DVB-S2 receiver for at least MPEG-4 with H.264/AVC and maybe should just get H.265/HEVC while I'm shopping. Main criteria:
* run my "Goto X"-era SG-2100 rotator
* be able to view most/all modern FTA satellites
* ideally a scheduled DVR feature and/or network would make it more useful
* I don't mind if it has… "alternative" firmwares or features but just for broader compatibility/interest
My main goal is I guess just exploration, seeing what's up there. Honestly not a big TV guy and definitely not into infomercials but if I can time shift the occasional Bob Ross or Mr. Rogers Neighborhood, or catch some world events as they're being uplinked, that sort of thing might be interesting. (Honestly main goal started out as weather satellites but this is kinda a warmup excercise for what will likely be a separate setup due to the frequencies.)
My dish is kinda far from my house and even farther from my "radio shack" so if I could just run a PoE ethernet line to something in a box below the dish, or a coax only to the crawlspace where I have 110V but either way would need it full remote including changing between satellites. To avoid having to buy and pull tons more coax up and down through the house. I'm into open source and real standards, so I'd much rather something that I can say use with VLC or go2rtc via a raw IP address and protocol rather than some convenient but proprietary iOS cloud app thingy.
The manual itself (the PDF that I found is named 20220718043903GTMEDIAV8FINDER2.pdf and it's on page 6 of 8) does show on the installation screen a "Motor Setup" menu item and says "If select DiSEqC1.2 or USALS, we can press ◀︎▶︎ to select IF Channel, and use number key to input Center Frequency."
Which…… the USALS part seems promising, but I don't know what IF and Center frequencies have to do with anything? Can it drive the motor off its battery for one, and does it have options for e.g. using the ◀︎▶︎ arrows to change the aim and save adjustments?
The closest I've found to real-world experience here is in Long shot with TBS6909X card where someone is talking about a different rotor and says:
> when I connect my V8 Finder 2, it immediately moves the dish if it's not in the correct position
which seems really promising! Moving the dish is what I'm after here, with something newer than the old MPEG-2 receiver I have now. Even for other receivers its really unclear if motor support is just pretty much a safe assumption that they don't even mention it anymore?
The V9 Prime actually looks pretty nice too and assuming it runs motors maybe that'd be better than the V8 Finder 2 for actual long term use since it has networking. But I'm having trouble finding listings for it (and actually most other receivers I see mentioned here) on Amazon or eBay or even Aliexpress. I'm wanting a DVB-S2 receiver for at least MPEG-4 with H.264/AVC and maybe should just get H.265/HEVC while I'm shopping. Main criteria:
* run my "Goto X"-era SG-2100 rotator
* be able to view most/all modern FTA satellites
* ideally a scheduled DVR feature and/or network would make it more useful
* I don't mind if it has… "alternative" firmwares or features but just for broader compatibility/interest
My main goal is I guess just exploration, seeing what's up there. Honestly not a big TV guy and definitely not into infomercials but if I can time shift the occasional Bob Ross or Mr. Rogers Neighborhood, or catch some world events as they're being uplinked, that sort of thing might be interesting. (Honestly main goal started out as weather satellites but this is kinda a warmup excercise for what will likely be a separate setup due to the frequencies.)
My dish is kinda far from my house and even farther from my "radio shack" so if I could just run a PoE ethernet line to something in a box below the dish, or a coax only to the crawlspace where I have 110V but either way would need it full remote including changing between satellites. To avoid having to buy and pull tons more coax up and down through the house. I'm into open source and real standards, so I'd much rather something that I can say use with VLC or go2rtc via a raw IP address and protocol rather than some convenient but proprietary iOS cloud app thingy.
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Thanks, great tips and yeah when I'd read how the H/V bias worked I wondered if the higher voltage was ever useful for better power transfer
It was perhaps slightly impulsive (though I guess not too late to cancel) but instead of the Finder unit I ended up going for kinda the opposite: a completely faceless USB tuner box (TBS5930) which should have RF support all the way up through DVB-S2X. If I'm understanding correctly the actual video/audio will then be whatever I can get software/GPU support for so my hope is that any unencrypted MPEG-2/AVC/HEVC feed can be viewed with VLC or whatnot. As well as access to what I assume is pure data like the Blockstream stuff just for example. (They had a lot of good resources for reception of their own signal in lots of various interesting ways and is kinda how I found the TBS options.)
And I think I will be able to control DiSEqC stuff through Linux including motor commands. So the idea is kinda what I mentioned, hoping this can just get chained in to an old thin client PC or if there's any Raspberry Pi that doesn't cost triple digits these days, somewhere physically convenient and then run it all over LAN from my laptop.
All this is somewhat theoretical of course based on what I'm piecing together but at a certain point I usually have to close all the browser tabs and just commit to try *something* that looks promising and go from there.
It was perhaps slightly impulsive (though I guess not too late to cancel) but instead of the Finder unit I ended up going for kinda the opposite: a completely faceless USB tuner box (TBS5930) which should have RF support all the way up through DVB-S2X. If I'm understanding correctly the actual video/audio will then be whatever I can get software/GPU support for so my hope is that any unencrypted MPEG-2/AVC/HEVC feed can be viewed with VLC or whatnot. As well as access to what I assume is pure data like the Blockstream stuff just for example. (They had a lot of good resources for reception of their own signal in lots of various interesting ways and is kinda how I found the TBS options.)
And I think I will be able to control DiSEqC stuff through Linux including motor commands. So the idea is kinda what I mentioned, hoping this can just get chained in to an old thin client PC or if there's any Raspberry Pi that doesn't cost triple digits these days, somewhere physically convenient and then run it all over LAN from my laptop.
All this is somewhat theoretical of course based on what I'm piecing together but at a certain point I usually have to close all the browser tabs and just commit to try *something* that looks promising and go from there.
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