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I used unshielded Sprinkler Wire.
C Band in fine, but almost always have to bump either way for Max. Ku.

thanks. I have the old VBox II but I do not think it is the VBox but rather noise affecting the pulses since when I had it connected outside it seemed to stop always with same quality readings. will have to test more i guess.

Well I finally yesterday adjusted the true south setting (by clicking 4 times east and then rotating the whole mount to peak again) but I have not yet adjusted the extreme sats. Nor I will with this cold days, windchill -5 and low at almost cero at noon. I am very happy how the dish is working so far.

Lak7 , RTV now locks permanently and stays at 63-64 on CS 6000 but it does not log the channel. For the lonely SCETV feed at 63W I just set the position (there are 7 clicks per 1 degree or 14 between Sats in that area) and will wait until it comes live to try to scan it.

I took pictures and will post them , but still have to bury a small section of the cable at the pole base. I still loose Ku on 125W completly but it works for some TP in the vicinity, the rest of the Arc on both bands works beautifully.

I am tracking from 55.5W to 135W where I can get everything on The List. The DVB-S2 Tp on 55W is still a no go but the DW and AJE TP which use the same parameters but 1 is vertical and the other horizontal are working perfectly although the levels ar at minimum 70. In the pictures you will see for 135W I just barely clear the roof of the neighborg. I tried 137W but is a no go and I think I remember from the last solar outage the sun was blocked by the roof. 135W was my last target for the location I choosed or was given.

At 135W if I push the dish up from underneath the C/N only goes up 0.5 dB the most and that is for HSN at the LNB as per the birdog. Quality (q) after Viterbi (The main Q value is only 3 and 7% for 3820H) goes up only 10 % the most from around 50 to 60 on those 4 TP's. Ideally we would want 100% or 0% errors but unatainable in this case. CS 6000 reads 66Q but despite that the channels work ok. Not windy but not calm either today and just a few clouds. I can even stand in front of the dish and it still works (unless I almost lean on the left side) which tells me the neighborg roof is already blocking the bottom half of it. I am only 5.5 and the dish is at 4 feet above ground.

With this values I am even considering not to adjust anything else although I have to do something about Ku on 125W. The problem is the mount cap is not plumb because there is a huge gap and after me working on the dish I probably forgot to double check that. The solution will be a 1 foot piece of 3" Drain pipe which as per my calculations fits perfectly, they sell it by 10 feet whcih do not fit inside my personal car but anyways I will find a solution to make the mount perfectly plumb. It is 1 degree of in the direction of 125W but perfect at tru south. far east direction is also not plumb but I have a tree blociking beyond 55W.

Now , If I only new how to post pictures here eh?, lol. It can not be more difficult that tracking Ku on even a small 6 footer eh, lol.

I just created an album on the site and uploaded the pictures. Hope it works, lol. As you can see there is also a 90 cm fixed @ 30W that also just barely clear the roofline of another neighborg. I had to install it as low and as far away from view as possible. The same with the BUD , I tryied to put it close to the tree fence and behind the toolshed where it is protected from wind as well and also as low as possible so no RF interference from nearby Microwave towers either. Forget the interference , I am only 5.5 ft so I even need a ladder to adjust the LNB when pointing at the lowest sat , lol.

I will change the cables for white ones and bury them and use a pvc pipe at the pole to proctect it and an electrical PVC box for the 22khz switch. I just wanted to finish and see it work today, lol. But probably will wait until I find a solution for the gap on the mount.

The arm is not perfectly upwards therefore it might not drain water as efficiently and will also set the hardware limits since the CS 8100 decided to overdrive it and it almost flops beyond 30W. Good thing I remember the pulse value for the lower limit and managed to power down on time the controller (and the STB since if it is ON the VBOX will not power off). The funny thing the limits were set but I think there is a bug with this CS 8100 because it acctually did it not once but twice. I have decided to slave the 8100 off the 6000 and this one then dirves the VBOX. I might connect the LNB straight to the 8100 and then the CS 6000 being used like an analog box just to send the drive commands to the VBOX. Now I see the usefulness of the names on the GBOX!!!.

Picture 2 Shows that the arm is paralell to the bracket as suggested by Anole on Wrdavis's install thread and also the fixed plate that comes with the dish allows me to grab the clamp further back from the pivot point. that way you get better accuracy or more linear travel per angular movement and also it mostly pushes the dish perpendicular for minimum effort to push. I wish I could have grabbed the Dish right at the 3rd hole at the end of the horizontal plate but then the arm end touches the Ring when on the east side. They should have extended the plate and made the 3 rd hole 2 inches to the right of the Ring.

The Dish is pointing at my west most Sat 135W and you can see on pic 1 that it barely clears the roof. Pic 3 shows it locks those Univision TP at barely 66Q and if I push it from down it only increases C/N by 0.5 dB.

Pic 5 shows that the arm motor although upwards some how it is not in the most efficient position for the holes to drain water I could not find a way to install it different. Will keep trying , as with these pictures he who insist wins!! or dies while triying , lol. It is almost easier to lock the first signal than to post the pictures on a forum!, lol.

Lak7, I just read here that Lyngsat had the SCETV info wrong (same one that you posted) , then changed it and now it scans in 10 tv channels named 301 to 310 but still with only 63% the CS 6000 says No Audio/Video. I am going to have to fix the gap in the mount as soon as posible. BTW it is 11966V , 11280 SR.