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C
Last reply · posted in General Home Theater Equipment
I'm cheap, and I like Samsung stuff, and I have a small room with an even smaller budget. That said, I'm looking at a Samsung UN46B7100 (LED lit, gray ToC), which has four HDMI inputs and an optical audio output.

I have a Dish Network VIP722 DVR, which supports Dolby Digital and Dolby Digital Plus from satellite or broadcast programs, which it can pass via HDMI.

I'm also looking at the Samsung HT-Z420, upconverting DVD 5.1-channel HTIB, which has one HDMI output and no HDMI inputs, but does have an optical audio input. This HTIB can also decode Dolby Digital, PL2, PL2x, and DTS streams, but nothing more advanced or recent.

To fill out the Blu-ray section, I really haven't decided on a BD-P1590 or a refurb BD-P2500, but they seem to have very similar audio features, including an output mode called "Bitstream (Re-encode)," which I think is my magic bullet. The Re-encode feature, according to the manuals, takes any surround sound encoding from the disc, decodes it into the main 5.1 channels, and then recodes it with DTS for output. Samsung recommends this "if you don't have an HDMI supported receiver, but have a receiver with an Optical input that can decode DTS."

I'm looking at these options because the Samsung Blu-ray HTIB costs $100 more than buying a DVD HTIB and a BD player separately, so that's a double-whammy. Since all three Samsung components support Anynet+, one should theoretically be able to adjust the volume and skip chapters while watching a Blu-ray disc using the TV's remote...theoretically.

I think that if I set the BD-P's audio output to Re-encode, patch all of my inputs to the TV via HDMI, and then link the TV's optical output to the HTIB's optical input, I should get 5.1 sound (DTS) from pretty much any disc with a multichannel sound track and 5.1 sound (DD, DD+) from broadcast material. I'm assuming at this point that I can tell the TV to take the HDMI audio signals and pass them out via optical.

Should this not work? I realize that the audio quality will be compromised, but I'm not sure that I'll know the difference through the $10 amplifier section and $3 speakers included in the HT-Z420 kit. This will be my first multichannel sound system, so I'm pretty sure I'll be elated if the surround sound simply works. :)
5 Replies · 2493 views
jvc
jvc
I think that if I set the BD-P's audio output to Re-encode, patch all of my inputs to the TV via HDMI, and then link the TV's optical output to the HTIB's optical input, I should get 5.1 sound (DTS) from pretty much any disc with a multichannel sound track and 5.1 sound (DD, DD+) from broadcast material. I'm assuming at this point that I can tell the TV to take the HDMI audio signals and pass them out via optical.
I doubt seriously that will work like you want.
99.9% of the tvs out there will not pass 5.1 surround that way. The optical output on tvs is for getting 5.1 surround from the internal tuner, from your local HD channels, while using an antenna. Not for a piggy back or daisy chain connection, from other sources. The handful of tvs that will even pass any audio that way at all, will down mix the 5.1 to 2.0, so the best you can hope for is Dolby Pro Logic (simulated surround).
jayn_j
I doubt seriously that will work like you want.
99.9% of the tvs out there will not pass 5.1 surround that way. The optical output on tvs is for getting 5.1 surround from the internal tuner, from your local HD channels, while using an antenna. Not for a piggy back or daisy chain connection, from other sources. The handful of tvs that will even pass any audio that way at all, will down mix the 5.1 to 2.0, so the best you can hope for is Dolby Pro Logic (simulated surround).

I agree with JVC. I have attempted to do the passthrough with both a Panasonic plasma and a Visio 32" LCD. In both cases, only the front channels were passed through on the audio output of the TV.

What WILL work is to run the audio from the 722 to the optical connection on the HTIB. This will give 5.1 to everything, but you will need to switch both the TV and the HTIB when changing sources.

Personally, I would step up a bit to the HT-Z522. It has better speakers and an HDMI input with "multi-channel audio support" It costs about $80 more, but the convenience factor alone would be worth it to me.
C
What WILL work is to run the audio from the 722 to the optical connection on the HTIB. This will give 5.1 to everything, but you will need to switch both the TV and the HTIB when changing sources.

Ugh, that's lame. Nothing ever works out as simply as I'd hoped, so I hadn't gotten my hopes too high. So what I really need is a TOSLink switch that I can move manually when I change sources on the TV...

Personally, I would step up a bit to the HT-Z522. It has better speakers and an HDMI input with "multi-channel audio support" It costs about $80 more, but the convenience factor alone would be worth it to me.

I'm not crazy about the big tower speakers, nor the wireless rear speakers, nor the 5-disc carousel (I want my kids to be able to use this, too, with a minimum of supervision). I see that it has one HDMI input, but I have to wonder if using an HDMI switch to go into this receiver will strip out the Anynet+ and BD-Wise functionality.

It kinda' kills me that the HT-BD systems are a) ugly and b) decode fewer audio formats than the component systems do, or I'd think about them harder. I think the TOSLink switch may be the best option, and I'd only bother with it when I'm in "cinema mode;" most of the time stereo-only is okay. Speaking of ugly:

For only $4.80 each when QTY 50+ purchased - 3X1 Optical Audio Toslink Bi-Directional Manual Switch | Toslink Switch / Converter
jayn_j
Ugh, that's lame. Nothing ever works out as simply as I'd hoped, so I hadn't gotten my hopes too high. So what I really need is a TOSLink switch that I can move manually when I change sources on the TV...

I'm not crazy about the big tower speakers, nor the wireless rear speakers, nor the 5-disc carousel (I want my kids to be able to use this, too, with a minimum of supervision). I see that it has one HDMI input, but I have to wonder if using an HDMI switch to go into this receiver will strip out the Anynet+ and BD-Wise functionality.

It kinda' kills me that the HT-BD systems are a) ugly and b) decode fewer audio formats than the component systems do, or I'd think about them harder. I think the TOSLink switch may be the best option, and I'd only bother with it when I'm in "cinema mode;" most of the time stereo-only is okay. Speaking of ugly:

For only $4.80 each when QTY 50+ purchased - 3X1 Optical Audio Toslink Bi-Directional Manual Switch | Toslink Switch / Converter

I found the 5 disc carousel to be a feature when the kids were young because I could load 5 discs and then place the unit up out of reach. Didn't take the little ones long to figure out how to swap discs, and it was a lot easier on the equipment than having little fingers messing with the tray.

Onkyo and Denon make HTIB units that do full decoding over the HDMI. However, they start at around $600 and head up from there.

As for that ugly switch: If you get one, you will find it has toslink inputs with ends and a plastic lens on each. The "switch" physically moves a light pipe inside to line up with the selected cable. Purely mechanical.

BTW, the unit you mentioned also listed wireless rear speakers. Hopefully, it is an external transmitter and you would be able to hard wire the rears. IMHO, wireless speakers are still unreliable. So many people complain about them losing signal and having it drop in and out during use.
C
I've just always hated carousels; personal taste, I suppose. I'm also oddly okay with the selector being mechanical, as it still reduces the risk of damaging a fiber cable from inserting/removing it too many times. :) As for the Z420 having wireless rears, you're right, which brings me right back to the Z320 (street price: $230, available at Walmart).

If only the TV would just pass HDMI DTS via optical...sigh.
J
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
This started a couple months ago. I have 2 H3s on one network, both with 2 EHD identical 3 TB seperately powered so all recordings are accessible by all 4k & J4s (8 of them).

On one H3 (not the main one that controls the MOCA network), after it reboots, it doesn't recognize it has two EHDs plugged into it. Rebooting the EHD by their power source doesn't fix it. Resetting the network doesn't. Software h3 reset doesn't fix it. Rebooting MOCA h3 doesn't fix it but so far, after 3+ cold boots (unplug pwr to H3 with unrecognized EHDs), it finally it figures out they are plugged into it. BUT.... Then when you open a program it only partially shows series and episodes, but instead of showing recordings, it only shows upcoming airings. HELP!!!!
13 Replies · 216 views
Almighty1
That would pinpoint it to the H3 that is the problem. Are both H3's on the same software version now and before? Did the system check actually do the full EHD test like the one below?

1792005788136.webp
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J
That would pinpoint it to the H3 that is the problem. Are both H3's on the same software version now and before? Did the system check actually do the full EHD test like the one below?

View attachment 194781
That didn't appear on the system check I ran on it. How do you trigger that test?
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J
That didn't appear on the system check I ran on it. How do you trigger that test?
They are both currently listed at V. H711 bootstrap V 1117 but the dates (are those install dates or V dates?) Are 9/5/2026 on naughty H3 and 8/15/2026 on nice one.
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Almighty1
They are both currently listed at V. H711 bootstrap V 1117 but the dates (are those install dates or V dates?) Are 9/5/2026 on naughty H3 and 8/15/2026 on nice one.
The current version is H713 but many people had been having issues with versions H711, H712, H713 which includes Remote issues - both the original DISH branded remotes and also when they use third party remotes that uses IR. There is also the support for the OTA single tuner dongle that stopped working, I forgot if that problem started with H710 or was it H711.
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bookworm370
I have the same problem with 713. Two EHD's come online just fine. The other on just sits there. Multiple power cord resets and also plug-unplug the EHD on both power and USB ports
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navychop
It'll only see two EHDs at a time.
Almighty1
I seem to have the same issue, I have 3 2.5" EHD's on a powered USB hub and in the last nightly reboot, it is seeing 0 EHD's as hitting DVR is not showing any of the EHD's. I had seen between 1-2 EHD's in H713 but all 3 with H712.

What I noticed and this is not just in H713 but even many years ago is that after the Hopper 3 whether standalone or with the Hopper Plus when it boots, don't hit the DVR button until after all the EHD's has been detected or else it will not show EHD's when DVR is hit later as it seems the DVR Recordings screen cannot be displayed until after all the EHD's had been detected. Otherwise, it will only display up to the number of EHD's that had been detected before DVR is pressed.

What I noticed is that in the detection phase is that it will called each EHD as a number between 1-3. If it ever shows as 4 when there are only 3 EHD's physically connected, the one with the 4 will not how up as a EHD. Unplugging and plugging in will not fix it as it requires unplugging and wait until the Hopper 3 boots up completely before plugging them in.
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Almighty1
They are both currently listed at V. H711 bootstrap V 1117 but the dates (are those install dates or V dates?) Are 9/5/2026 on naughty H3 and 8/15/2026 on nice one.
I just check my bootstrap in H713 and it says 1017, are you sure you have 1117? The dates are install dates.
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cpdretired
Supporting Founder
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Several Dish offers showed up today in my account. Once you choose one the rest are removed. Offers were Showtime, Starz, AMC and others.
38 Replies · 1780 views
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B
Just checked my account and it shows mgm+ at 8.00 per month, but that has red line drawn thru it and shows 0.00 per month. But it doesn't say how long this lasts,...... 1 month, 3 months, forever. I called customer service to get an answer, and they said nothing like that exists. Should I add the offer or not? Already paying them too much, but want to take advantage of something free.
S
Just checked my account and it shows mgm+ at 8.00 per month, but that has red line drawn thru it and shows 0.00 per month. But it doesn't say how long this lasts,...... 1 month, 3 months, forever. I called customer service to get an answer, and they said nothing like that exists. Should I add the offer or not? Already paying them too much, but want to take advantage of something free.
look again mine says free for 1 month
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Almighty1
look again mine says free for 1 month
Not for me, mines has no mention of how long aka the offer period and the Terms and conditions the $0.00 is good for. All I see is one can lose $5.00 if you decide to remove it before day 31 after you add it to the account.

1792131071109.webp
S
Not for me, mines has no mention of how long aka the offer period and the Terms and conditions the $0.00 is good for. All I see is one can lose $5.00 if you decide to remove it before day 31 after you add it to the account.

View attachment 194817
wonder why it says that
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Almighty1
look again mine says free for 1 month
You have a different offer that is free for a shorter timeframe which is different than the one that I and bnewt saw without defining the promotion period as I sent the question to DISH Care via Facebook Messenger and this is the response I got back 20 minutes ago.

1792177553912.webp
Almighty1
wonder why it says that
Answer 2 minutes ago from DISH Care via Facebook Messenger:
1792178974514.webp
bookworm370
Thanks, I tried it on the website first. I'll try it on the hopper
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Darrell S
I tried on Hopper last night. Many more offers than the website has. I even got 3 free months of Gallery. Only offered 1 month on website
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long_time_Dish
I got Starz/Encore again for 50% off for 3 months yesterday.
Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68512 Replies · 2671677 views
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FTA4PA
Six O'Clock News - John Prine
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Bobby
It's Five O'Clock Somewhere - Alan Jackson
harshness
Somewhere - Barbra Streisand
sdfntx
Somewhere in Time - John Barry
long_time_Dish
In Time - Kit Watkins
Former member 209992
Last reply · posted in SatelliteGuys Support Center
For some reason, the satelliteguys.us site is loading a lot slower than usual on both Chrome on my Asus laptop and Safari on my iPhone.
I'm also seeing longer appearances of the blue bar at the top and the "3 blue bars" loading symbol.
Is anyone else also having the same problem? Thanks in advance.
540 Replies · 18263 views
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Scott Greczkowski
Was down due to an emergency update at the ISP. They did email me seconds before they took it down and apologized for the short notice.

However once the server was back online NGINX failed to start.

I was at the grocery store and just rebooted the entire server and everything came back up again.

Just got home from the grocery store I will bring in the groceries and then take a look at what NGINX failed the first time.
comfortably_numb
Was down due to an emergency update at the ISP. They did email me seconds before they took it down and apologized for the short notice.

However once the server was back online NGINX failed to start.

I was at the grocery store and just rebooted the entire server and everything came back up again.

Just got home from the grocery store I will bring in the groceries and then take a look at what NGINX failed the first time.

NGINX
The site uses Nugenix?!


View: https://youtu.be/_DhEEo5S9fg
Scott Greczkowski
Ok checked it out and for some reason the web server (NGINX) tried starting before the DNS resolver fully loaded. This is why it worked when I rebooted the machine.

Thanks to ChatGPT it had me change the NGINX config to prevent this from happening again.

With that said I can't prevent the ISP from doing emergency upgrades which was the cause of all of this.
navychop
Nature will develop better idiots.
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TRG
TRG
Nature will develop better idiots.
God help us.
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Peter Parker
Supporting Founder Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
No idea what improvements might be involved.
11 Replies · 547 views
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cpdretired
Two bugs out and three new bugs in.🐞
Almighty1
Updated to H713 on a Hopper 3 from H712 with Hopper Plus a few hours earlier.

It brought a old problem back:

One of the problems I am seeing is that the Available Joey Software section no longer is showing the Android TV versions even after a manual software reset twice and the nightly reboot. Until it does, nether Technician Android TV download and Hopper Plus is able to check, download and update the Android TV software.

This was a major problem with H703.

H710 removed that dependency but it's broken again.

Rick Durham and brittanygarden
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dishstaller
Two bugs out and three new bugs in.🐞
Yep. Just got a call from a customer who said her DVR buttons stopped working. Told her about the new software and had her reboot her H3, problem solved.
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S
Updated to H713 on a Hopper 3 from H712 with Hopper Plus a few hours earlier.

It brought a old problem back:

One of the problems I am seeing is that the Available Joey Software section no longer is showing the Android TV versions even after a manual software reset twice and the nightly reboot. Until it does, nether Technician Android TV download and Hopper Plus is able to check, download and update the Android TV software.

This was a major problem with H703.

H710 removed that dependency but it's broken again.

Rick Durham and brittanygarden
i can still see my joey software version with H713.. i am starting to think it's time to get rid of the hopper plus. i just have 2 joey 4's and the hopper 3 with no issues. it seem like the people that have the hopper plus have issues!!!
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Almighty1
i can still see my joey software version with H713.. i am starting to think it's time to get rid of the hopper plus. i just have 2 joey 4's and the hopper 3 with no issues. it seem like the people that have the hopper plus have issues!!!
Are you talking about the Available Joey Software section which goes something like this:
Available Joey W153 W209 J613 J713 J813 K113 J913
Software
in H713 in diagnostics which is directly below the "Switch" section which is what I am referring to that should have a number starting with P which is needed for the
Hopper Plus, Joey 4 and Wireless Joey 4
or the top area where it shows what the current version of the software is for the Hopper 3?

Seeing what your Joey 4/Wireless Joey 4 software version just tells you what is the current software version already installed, until the P version(s) shows up in "Available Joey Software" section which is different for the Hopper Plus, Joey 4, Wireless Joey 4 and it will only list one for the device(s) that exist in one's own configuration which lists what's the latest available, those devices will not be able to check or update their software as it will say "Failed: No Tgt" while "Download ATV Files" in TECHNICIAN SETTINGS under tools will respond with:
"Download ATV Files 3000
This device is not currently targeted for
Android software"
as both are dependent on the P version being listed in the "Available Joey Software" section. It usually takes a few minutes before it shows up. I know with H710-H712, it was not shown and the Download ATV Files worked except since H710, even if you selected everything shown which for me would be the Hopper Plus, Joey 4 and Wireless Joey 4 versions, the first download will as a end result only download the Hopper Plus's versions even though it shows all three as downloaded based on what Available Joey Software shows which is always two P numbers P153 and P15317. After the first successful download, the next download will actually download all three and Available Joey Software will reflect that. In H708 (H709 was skipped as no one mentioned it on the forums) and earlier, it always downloaded everything selected and would show 6 P versions in the Available Joey Software area. The Available Joey Software section is how I tell if there is a newer software available for the Hopper Plus and when I see that, I do the Download ATV files first which is where I get my information to post in my other thread, "Latest available software version for Android TV devices - Hopper Plus, Joey 4, Wireless Joey 4". The Download ATV files does not do any install or update the Hopper Plus as I still need to manually hit Menu, Settings, Device Preferences, About, Software Update to update the software.

So with any new Hopper 3 software update, the first things I will check is the Notifications in Settings to see if any of the settings were reset. For the "Remote Control Mode Reminder" setting, I would try it with off, exit notifications then hit TV on the side of the remote to make sure it does not show the reminder before going to notifications andputting it back to on, exit to see if it works correctly before going back to notifications for the other settings. Then I would look at Available Joey Software and regardless if the 2 P versions, one appears to be the 3 digit major version number and the other is the full 5 digit number which is the 3 digit major version number with 2 more digits, exists or not. Attempt to do the Download ATV Software for all 3 Android TV devices Hopper Plus, Joey 4 and Wireless Joey 4 until all of them is downloaded and shown in Available Joey Software which should be a total of 6 things added. If Download ATV Software has the no target like since H713, I will wait until I see a P version before I do it.

For reference, it's in the following threads:
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bookworm370
Yep. Just got a call from a customer who said her DVR buttons stopped working. Told her about the new software and had her reboot her H3, problem solved.
Reboot just fixes it for a short time and then it's back to messed up

Try going exclusively to an IR remote and you will see the pain
Almighty1
Updated to H713 on a Hopper 3 from H712 with Hopper Plus a few hours earlier.

It brought a old problem back:

One of the problems I am seeing is that the Available Joey Software section no longer is showing the Android TV versions even after a manual software reset twice and the nightly reboot. Until it does, nether Technician Android TV download and Hopper Plus is able to check, download and update the Android TV software.

This was a major problem with H703.

H710 removed that dependency but it's broken again.

Rick Durham and brittanygarden

Within the last few hours as I did check earlier today when it was still missing, the Available Joey Software line now has added "P154 P15403" which is for the Hopper Plus that I have but my Hopper Plus software is still on P15317, I will do a Download Android TV (ATV) Software for the Hopper Plus, Joey 4 and Wireless Joey which are all Android TV devices and then manually do a check update on the Hopper Plus to update the software shortly.
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BatStang2000
This happened to me. I was outside mowing and my wife came out and said that our nieces and nephews were going to be on the Noon News. She had it on in the bedroom on our Joey3. Since they weren't on yet, I decided to turn it on in the Living Room on our Hopper3. When I selected the channel (through Dish, not OTA) the Joey3 turned itself off. When I went back to the bedroom to turn it back on, the Hopper3 did a reboot. Luckily it all finished before their story came on, but I just found it strange.
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bookworm370
Has anyone noticed an FF stutter with 713? I used to be able to hit FF a few times and skip smoothly. After 713 (maybe 712), when I skip forward, there is a definite stutter for as many times as I have pressed FF.

Can anyone check on this and report back? Recorded programs and then press skip forward a few times to see if it's smooth? Normally, it just jumps to the right place after the skips.
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brittanygarden
Staff member Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Please post your remote make/model here and any details of your issue. We are looking to collect as many examples as possible. I may reach out to you for your receiver number, but please do not post it here.

If you've already reported this to me, please repost it here so I can track all instances in one thread.

Thanks!
Brittany
22 Replies · 685 views
david_jr
I lost IR control of my H3 after the H398 update in September of 25. We were using the Harmony Hub remote system from Logitech. We have been using the H3 OEM remote to turn the receiver on and off ever since then.

H398 Software Version
bookworm370
I have a solution that is guaranteed to work.
All Hopper developers are required to turn in their RF Hopper remotes and use only IR remotes.

I guarantee you that the bug will be fixed in two days!
Try it; it will work! They will work 24 hours a day to fix it when the WAF goes into the toilet!
GRB1959
I have a solution that is guaranteed to work.
All Hopper developers are required to turn in their RF Hopper remotes and use only IR remotes.

I guarantee you that the bug will be fixed in two days!
Try it; it will work! They will work 24 hours a day to fix it when the WAF goes into the toilet!
Excellent suggestion.
Foxbat
As I was testing 4K on my Hopper 3 running H713 10/7/2026 by watching the NLCS Game 2 on Channel 148-01, I had been using my Dish 52.0 remote to navigate. I grabbed my Harmony One and pressed "Info". This caused the Hopper 3 to crash and restart.

After it restarted, the game finished so I pressed "Options" on the 52.0 remote to access the TV Activity screen. I pressed Select on the tuner with the NLCS game active and arrowed-down to select "Stop Recording". Again, the Hopper 3 crashed and restarted.

After it came back up, I used Recall to return to "Maine Cabin Masters" and when I tried the Options button again, I saw that the NLCS Game was still being recorded. I selected the game, arrowed-down to Stop recording, and this time it stopped recording and didn't crash.

Since I was watching an HD program instead of 4K, I tried the "Info" button and nothing happened. The Harmony One has an IR active indicator when it's transmitting so I know I pressed the button.

It looks like the 2nd or 3rd time I sent "Info" from the Harmony One, the Hopper 3 started to respond again. If I used the Dish 52.0 remote, the Hopper 3 stopped listening to the Harmony One IR commands. It looks like "Info" needs to be pressed twice and that seems to reactivate the IR recognition on the Hopper 3. It seems to stay active, but I didn't try leaving the Hopper 3 alone for an hour or more.
Bobby
As I was testing 4K on my Hopper 3 running H713 10/7/2026 by watching the NLCS Game 2 on Channel 148-01, I had been using my Dish 52.0 remote to navigate. I grabbed my Harmony One and pressed "Info". This caused the Hopper 3 to crash and restart.

After it restarted, the game finished so I pressed "Options" on the 52.0 remote to access the TV Activity screen. I pressed Select on the tuner with the NLCS game active and arrowed-down to select "Stop Recording". Again, the Hopper 3 crashed and restarted.

After it came back up, I used Recall to return to "Maine Cabin Masters" and when I tried the Options button again, I saw that the NLCS Game was still being recorded. I selected the game, arrowed-down to Stop recording, and this time it stopped recording and didn't crash.

Since I was watching an HD program instead of 4K, I tried the "Info" button and nothing happened. The Harmony One has an IR active indicator when it's transmitting so I know I pressed the button.

It looks like the 2nd or 3rd time I sent "Info" from the Harmony One, the Hopper 3 started to respond again. If I used the Dish 52.0 remote, the Hopper 3 stopped listening to the Harmony One IR commands. It looks like "Info" needs to be pressed twice and that seems to reactivate the IR recognition on the Hopper 3. It seems to stay active, but I didn't try leaving the Hopper 3 alone for an hour or more.
I think you have it. If you start up with the Harmony and then use the 54 remote it confuses the Hopper because you went from IR to RF. It seems to get cranky when you want to go back to the Harmony.
R
I think you have it. If you start up with the Harmony and then use the 54 remote it confuses the Hopper because you went from IR to RF. It seems to get cranky when you want to go back to the Harmony.
I checked this and you are correct. My Harmony 665 remote worked fine until my wife used the Dish remote. After the Dish remote is used I have to push or hold a button down until the 665 starts working again.
david_jr
I lost IR control of my H3 after the H398 update in September of 25. We were using the Harmony Hub remote system from Logitech. We have been using the H3 OEM remote to turn the receiver on and off ever since then.

H398 Software Version
BTW my bedroom H3 does not have this problem where I am using a Harmony 650. Also has there been any more feedback? Are they still working on this or what?
Foxbat
I think I have a separate issue with our Hopper 3 when watching/recording a 4K event. I have had many instances of it spontaneously restarting when I "disturbed" it during a 4K event. I learned to not touch the remote after a given point.

But it might be the IR code subroutine and 4K that make it touchy. I'll try it Wednesday night during the NLCS Game 3.
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JeffN9
I think I have a separate issue with our Hopper 3 when watching/recording a 4K event. I have had many instances of it spontaneously restarting when I "disturbed" it during a 4K event. I learned to not touch the remote after a given point.

But it might be the IR code subroutine and 4K that make it touchy. I'll try it Wednesday night during the NLCS Game 3.
I was having similar issues last night while watching and recording the NLCS game on 148. When I tried resuming the game at one point the screen went blank and I couldn't get my H3 to respond to any remote commands. Eventually the Hopper went to a HD channel but still no remote response. After a while the Hopper went into a re-boot cycle. This happened at least 3 times. I was using an IR universal remote only.

A little frustrating to have the game broken up like that but at least the Brewers won:)
bookworm370
Excellent suggestion.
Yea, I've only been a CIO for the last 30 years! :)
Trust me, when something important breaks, they get to own it!
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meStevo
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Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Continuing the Kilauea thread in the Pub here. Perhaps the Iceland one too next time there's remarkable activity.

Currently there is precursory lava flowing into the crater, leading to the next episode that'll probably start within the next day.

You can see the pace of inflation / deflation here. It serves as the primary predictor for when the expect the eruptions, which coincide w/ inflation turning into significant deflation and last for several hours on average with significant fountaining.



View: https://youtu.be/Uecu2seh4b4


Wife and I like the AfarTV feeds, for the discussion along w/ them, though they're otherwise just mirrors of the official USGS feeds.


View: https://youtu.be/iws3rh5vLAQ
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Foxbat
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Foxbat
Oooo, quite the show now. All three vents have doming and overflows. The cone that built up around the North vent lost its upper quarter at 02:50 Oct 17 and is now spewing lava at a healthy rate. Don't know if I would say it's a fountain, but it's close.


IMG_1534.webp

edit: The USGS has called the official start of Episode 55 as starting at 03:19 HST Oct 17, 2026:

Alert Level: WATCH, Color Code: ORANGE 2026-10-17 13:43:56 UTC
HVO/USGS Volcanic Activity Notice

Volcano: Kilauea (VNUM #332010)

Current Volcano Alert Level: WATCH
Current Aviation Color Code: ORANGE

Issued: Saturday, October 17, 2026, 3:43 AM HST
Source: Hawaiian Volcano Observatory
Notice Number: 2026/H488
Location: N 19 deg 25 min W 155 deg 17 min
Elevation: 4091 ft (1247 m)
Area: Hawaii

Summary: Episode 55 of the ongoing Halemaʻumaʻu eruption began at 3:19 AM HST on October 17, 2026.

Volcanic Activity:
Episode 55 of lava fountaining in Halemaʻumaʻu began at the summit of Kīlauea began at 3:19 AM HST on October 17, 2026.

Fountain heights are relatively low at about 100-150 feet (30-45 m), and it is not clear whether this episode will evolve to the same heights as previous episodes. Continuous overflows from the vents began yesterday, October 16, just before 6 a.m. HST and transitioned into episode 55 fountains at 3:19 a.m. HST this morning. The current forecast is for winds are blowing from the north-northeast direction, which suggests that volcanic gas emissions and volcanic material may be distributed to the south-southwest direction from Halemaʻumaʻu.
  • All eruptive vents and lava flows are confined to Halemaʻumaʻu crater within Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. Tephra fall from volcanic ash clouds is greatest within 3 miles (5 km) of the vents, lighter ash and Pele's Hair may stay suspended for large distances from the vents.
Foxbat
Kīlauea seems to be returning to the "normal" eruption script, impressive fountaining from the North Vent. For once, the V2 Cam has the best overall shot:
IMG_1535.webp
The lava flows have covered a good portion of the Halemaʻumaʻu crater floor.
Foxbat
Looks like Episode 55 is over at 09:00 HST, just under six hours. The USGS said the fountains reached 720' or 220 meters.
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