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Last reply · posted in DIRECTV General Forum
We are charter premiere package DirecTV subscribers with three HR21s and one HR10. As a result of the excellent posts and discussions here concerning DirecTV's "service Commitment" policies and early cancellation fees, we decided to email DirecTV and ask several questions:

1. Did we have a commitment?

2. What was it if we had one?

3. If we had a claimed commitment, what would be the cancellation fee?

4. Was it true what we had heard that they charged a two year commitment even if the activated receiver was a REPLACEMENT UNDER THE REPAIR PLAN?

They answered promptly that we did have a commitment, they cited the date, and said we'd owe $20 per month if we cancelled before the end of the commitment. They absolutely DID NOT answer question number 4, maybe because the dates and commitments they were claiming resulted from activating a receiver DirecTV had sent us under the repair plan to replace a defective receiver we had had for over two years before that.

So, we replied to THAT answer and asked "But the date you claim we activated a 'new' receiver' was in fact a replacement receiver under the service plan-do you still claim that 'commitment?'"

Interesting that DirecTV has not responded to that inquiry. So, I called DirecTV and got shuffled around with a bunch of gobbledy-gook, never got an answer, and hung up after being cut off once, redialing, and then being transferred twice before being put on hold over ten minutes.

We recently had received a Triple Play solicitation from Verizon FIOS which gave us a price on combined phone, internet and TV service which was less than we were already paying for just FIOS phone and internet, and it upped our internet speed to 25/15 and gave us free long distance. So we had the three services installed, and put the FIOS receiver in my upstairs man cave retreat, figuring that we saved money even if we never watched the FIOS TV. I did not put everything on the FIOS TV service but I got extreme HD and they give you HBO free for three months. My intent was to evaluate the FIOS service and to decide if we should cancel DirecTV and save well over $100 per month on combined services with everything from FIOS.

My appraisal of the FIOS TV service was that the quality of sound and picture was superb, and better than DirecTV, but that the FIOS DVR, onscreen menus and general utility were so completely awful that the only way we could tolerate FIOS TV would be to get high def TiVo boxes and cable cards, which we'd prefer not to have to buy. We'd also need TiVo programmable remote capabilities to fit the boxes into our whole house, RF repeater video system (with FIOS, one and only one available remote code would control all the boxes in the house-does not work for us)

However, this false, misleading, deceptive and nonresponsive service commitment and cancellation fee policy of DirecTV is SO irritating to us that we may just cancel DirecTV, go through the brain damage of fighting them, and have to pay for new TiVo boxes on top of that. In the short term, it will cost us, but it would ammortize in a little over a year.

Sometimes principle is worth paying a little more for, I'm thinking. We figure the DirecTV boxes are unreliable enough that if you had four of them, you'd replace at least one every two years and be in claimed indentured servitude to DirecTV forever, for life. This just made us mad.

So, for now, this Camper is not "Happy" with DirecTV. I really have no complaint about the actual service from DirecTV other than it blanking out in our fairly frequent North Central Texas thunderstorms, and it's expensive. I have even come to prefer the HR21 over the TiVo software, which I thought I never would (not my wife however-she loves TiVo, hates D* software). But, D*'s policies are so repugnant we'll probably leave DirecTV, even if we might be cutting off our noses for everyday TV service and hardware quality-D's hardware is excellent and FIOS's hardware and crappy software combined are miserable beyond description here.

That's the story. Sorry for the length, but I wanted to give you the full flavor of this Camper's dissappointment with D*. Interesting thing is that we'd have NEVER HAD A CLUE about D*'s policy and claims except for the great info you all put on these forums. They do not advertise nor overtly claim these 'commitments' and let you just keep on incurring them forever if you do not ask. Thanks for giving us the knowledge to protest and protect ourselves from these DirecTV jerks.

Respectfully submitted,
The Camper
20 Replies · 5074 views
cfb
cfb
Certainly the average person is not going to scour a companies web site and then read 10 pages of fine print, nor are they going to do the same on the back side of every piece of paper they're handed by the installer who is impatiently shifting his weight from one foot to the other and looking at his watch because he's already late for his next appointment.

This is pretty simple: if someone calls you up and asks you to provide service say "There is a two year commitment with a $480 cancellation fee if you cancel after the first month, and it goes down $20 a month after that...okay?".

Right, I know why that doesnt happen that way. Because some of the time, the next thing the directv guy would hear is a dial tone.

Fine to tuck it away where it wont deter sales, but the alternative outcome is pretty obvious in the number of complaints: customers that are unhappy and want to part company only to find that they have to pay a huge financial penalty to do so will be pissed and complain.

Pick one or the other: keep the sales up and have a lot of mad customers or be honest and upfront and lose some business as a result.

The average person goes into an agreement like this thinking its going to be like any other 'utility' service or entertainment service: when you no longer want or like the service, or if you're moving, you call and cancel it and thats that. We expect that unusual or high cost fees will be highlighted.

Most people understand that when they're given something substantial for free, that there should be some sort of commitment. Yet when you pay $200 a receiver and have to give it back when you're done using it, you havent really received anything for free. Dish install and wiring? Cost of doing business vs cable who doesnt have to go through that malarkey.

Its not easy to have your cake and eat it too.

Somewhere along the line some muckety-muck at directv was told that there are a lot of customers canceling and the company losing some money as a result. Instead of doing the smart business decision and asking that the cause of the cancellations be investigated, the knee-jerk reaction was "Well, lets charge them a cancellation fee! See how they like that!!!"

Stupid business decisions 101.
durl
At some point, the average person needs to start reading contracts to which they sign their name. No one likes fine print, but too many people accuse a company of cheating them when they simply didn't want to take the time or effort to understand what they were getting in to. The sub-prime mortgage mess is a great example of people not wanting to study contracts logically. People want stuff without having to worry about the details. No one likes fine print, but we ignore it at our own peril.

The cancellation fee wasn't put in place as a "We'll teach them to leave us!!" form of punishment. For many, the cost of equipment was stated by many as a reason why they didn't pick up satellite TV. (Early non-DVR HD receivers were around $600-$700.) Companies began subsidizing the cost of the equipment, requiring a commitment and cancellation fees to ensure that they wouldn't lose money.
S
We've been customers since late 1998. We haven't seen a contract, or signed ANYTHING, since that time. Yet, we're still subject to DirecTV's arbitrary rules (because, yes, I know, it says they can change their rules anytime). DirecTV also has not, and will not, prove to me why my contract was extended. (They gave three different reasons, and refused to back up any of the three with a paper trail.) Their final response was, as I wrote earlier: "DirecTV considers this matter closed."

In 2006 we bought a DirecTV HD DVR from Best Buy for $199, which we "owned." In 2007, I bought the same model/size/brand DirecTV HD DVR from Best Buy for the SAME $199 and it is "leased." (And, yes, I also paid a lot MORE for past receivers, DVRs, etc. which we no longer have. I paid, at one point, up to $1,400 for an expanded hard drive DirecTiVo when we first got HD.)

At some point after that 2007 purchase ALL of our equipment was shifted to "leased" on our bill, following an account reauthorization when we were having issues with our channels showing up correctly. We had to call and do a lot of phone fiddling, etc. that eventually resulted in removing and re-adding all of our programming, which somehow worked. (I suspect this also triggered the "new contract" though nothing actually changed; but I don't have any proof as I did not document the date this occurred, just remember that it did at some point.) I have the receipts that show both receiver purchases (time, date, price), as well as old DirecTV bills that show the owned/ leased swap for the SAME receivers. I offered to fax all of this information to DirecTV but they did not respond because they "consider this matter closed."

I haven't really fought too much about the leasing/owned issue because it seemed like 1) a waste of breath after several fruitless emails and phone calls and 2) All I've ever done with old equipment I owned anyway was give it to Goodwill, so no great loss to send it back to DirecTV instead.

I'm not arguing that DirecTV doesn't have a right to run their business this way but, after almost 11 years of loyalty and on-time payment, I expect more from a company I'm paying $160/month for service. That's simply MY opinion. DirecTV does not agree, and I don't expect them to change their minds. I will vote with my wallet and take my business elsewhere when my bogus "contract" expires. I have already cut our programming and turned off several receivers, so they've lost about $65/month of my money. If I could leave today, I would, which is what I told the person in retention when I spoke with them after asking to reduce my services.

For those who say all companies do this, I disagree. Yes, I have a cell phone contract. But it was made very clear when I signed up why I had a contract, and for how long. If I change my cell phone plan, it doesn't start a new contract and I've never had any confusion about when/why a contract began, or ended. And, in the case of cell phones, the cost of a phone with contract and without is VERY clear and obvious. (And you always have the choice of buying a phone without a contract, at a higher cost.) With DirecTV, during this back-and-forth, they said I would have had to pay $499 to "own" my current receiver (the one I paid the same price for an "owned" one just 11 months prior) AND there STILL would have been a new contract put in place, regardless of ownership status. I was told ANY change, discount or special offer automatically extends your contract another TWO YEARS. (I also asked for a letter from the retention person I spoke with that documented dropping my programming packaged wouldn't extended my contract. We'll see if I get it.) That's just outrageous and NOT standard business practices for any other company I can think of. At least not one I'd willingly deal with!

By the way, I don't even know if there was a contract time when we first signed on, and that was back when there were upfront costs of install and equipment ... All of which we then "owned."
cfb
cfb
The comparison with the sub-prime market is pretty humorous. In the vast majority of cases involving bad sub-prime loans, the person getting the loan was well aware of the costs and contracts and participated in faking income or equity to obtain the loans. Granted some of the folks who bought into the zero down variable rate products didnt realize how much they might end up paying after a bunch of rate resets, but they were most certainly sat down by a loan representative and read the specifics surrounding the loan.

Nobody ever mentioned anything to me about a $480 cancellation fee.

Companies began subsidizing the cost of the equipment, requiring a commitment and cancellation fees to ensure that they wouldn't lose money.

I've been buying tivo dvr's and directv tivo dvr's for <$200 a box for almost ten years, none of them requiring a commitment or subsidy.

The Hr20's are the first dvr's I've bought that came with a commitment and I'm dubious of the value of the 'subsidy', since I have to give it back at the end of the 'lease'. And they'll just test it and 'lease' it to someone else as a refurb.

Right now I can buy a Tivo HD box which excepting the absence of satellite tuners but the presence of terrestrial tuners, contains almost exactly the same components and build as an HR2x, and I can pick it up from between $150 and $199. The cable companies will give me their box for free, just a monthly fee.

So I think the theory of subsidies as a necessity of the business model isnt a particularly good one. Directv gets us to pay a fair market price for the boxes, gets them back and 'leases' them to someone else, and if we come to an impasse on the quality of products and services, gets to harvest up to $480 from us on the way out.

Doesnt seem equitable.
moghedien14
We've been customers since late 1998. We haven't seen a contract, or signed ANYTHING, since that time....

I'm not arguing that DirecTV doesn't have a right to run their business this way but, after almost 11 years of loyalty and on-time payment, I expect more from a company I'm paying $160/month for service....

I will vote with my wallet and take my business elsewhere when my bogus "contract" expires. I have already cut our programming and turned off several receivers, so they've lost about $65/month of my money. If I could leave today, I would, which is what I told the person in retention when I spoke with them after asking to reduce my services.

You said in a previous post that your contract expires on 10/2010. Depending on how you figure this, it's either 11 or 12 months away. You have two options:

1) Cancel now and pay the ETF. At $20/month for the remainder of the contract, that will be $220 or $240.

2) Stay until 10/2010 and pay for a service you hate $95/month for 11-12 months, which will add up to $1045 or $1140.

Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems like selecting a new provider (hopefully with a 'new subscriber' deal) and cancelling Directv now would be the way to go...
M
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?
10 Replies · 514 views
Almighty1
Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?
I have a DISH Hopper 3 (Software H713) with Hopper Plus (Software P15403). I have not tried streaming services but I primarily watch TVB Jadeworld international package which is only available by streaming and when I have an issue, I usually have to go to a non-streaming satellite channel first before the streaming channels will work again. What software versions do you have and what is the error message if any are showing on your screen? or is that Dish downloading logo just stuck and never finishes?
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M
I have a DISH Hopper 3 (Software H713) with Hopper Plus (Software P15403). I have not tried streaming services but I primarily watch TVB Jadeworld international package which is only available by streaming and when I have an issue, I usually have to go to a non-streaming satellite channel first before the streaming channels will work again. What software versions do you have and what is the error message if any are showing on your screen? or is that Dish downloading logo just stuck and never finishes?
I'm on H713 on the Hopper and P15403 on the Hopper Plus. It shows internet connection issues and doesn't finish loading the various services. I see the "loading circle going around. Sometimes I get a message saying that the service is having trouble loading my content and to check the internet connection.
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Almighty1
I'm on H713 on the Hopper and P15403 on the Hopper Plus. It shows internet connection issues and doesn't finish loading the various services. I see the "loading circle going around. Sometimes I get a message saying that the service is having trouble loading my content and to check the internet connection.
Did it ever work correctly before? Hard to say what the problem is. Usually for streaming, it will show the Dish logo with lines sweeping down to show downloading, never seen the circle issue. Did you try a manual reboot, red button reset, power cord unplug/replug to see if it makes a difference.
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S
Did it ever work correctly before? Hard to say what the problem is. Usually for streaming, it will show the Dish logo with lines sweeping down to show downloading, never seen the circle issue. Did you try a manual reboot, red button reset, power cord unplug/replug to see if it makes a difference.
Might be worth just to ditch the hopper plus. No issues here on h713
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S
Over the past few weeks, I have had problems connecting to streaming services (Netflix, HBO et al). When I go to the TV's native Channels, I have no problem. The Dish internet troubleshooter shows I have a good internet connection. I'm wondering whether it's an issue with my internet provider or a problem with the Dish software on the Hopper Plus. Anyone else seeing this?
Buy a roku and dump the hopper plus you'll be better off. If you have a smart tv you don't need either one. No hopper plus here and no issues!!!
Almighty1
Might be worth just to ditch the hopper plus. No issues here on h713
I have a Hopper Plus and no issues either. charlesrshell has both a Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and one without, he doesn't have the same issue. Before blaming it on the Hopper Plus, he should see if the problem still exists without the Hopper Plus connected as it could be the Internet connection itself or some setting in the router itself. There is someone in another thread who has EHD issues on the Hopper 3 only setup but does not have the EHD issues on the Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and he has already tried swapping the EHD and it did not make a difference so like the saying, YMMV.
Almighty1
Buy a roku and dump the hopper plus you'll be better off. If you have a smart tv you don't need either one. No hopper plus here and no issues!!!
The Roku costs $$$, Hopper Plus is free. That may not be the only costs as it depends if the TV in question still has available HDMI ports and if not, it will require a HDMI switch and HDMI cable which adds more to the cost.

I have a LG 3D OLED Smart TV and I still need either of them because it does not have Android TV built in. Add a Hopper Plus and see if you actually have issues or not as until you actually tried it, it means nothing.
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jsmit86
If the OP has a router and a managed switch, that could be the problem.
I have a Hopper 3 and 5 Joey 4s. I recently updated my Router, Switch and access points with Ubiquiti UniFi gear. I had an issue where the switch interpreted the communication between the hopper internet connection and one of the Joeys as a data loop. I had to change some settings in the switch to re-enable that port. Your router could possibly be doing the same thing blocking the connection.

If your router has a malware connection setting, try disabling it temporarily, and see if the internet comes back. Contact your ISP and see if there is a block happening at the router or switch level, or via the ISP's threat protection.
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Almighty1
If the OP has a router and a managed switch, that could be the problem.
I have a Hopper 3 and 5 Joey 4s. I recently updated my Router, Switch and access points with Ubiquiti UniFi gear. I had an issue where the switch interpreted the communication between the hopper internet connection and one of the Joeys as a data loop. I had to change some settings in the switch to re-enable that port. Your router could possibly be doing the same thing blocking the connection.

If your router has a malware connection setting, try disabling it temporarily, and see if the internet comes back. Contact your ISP and see if there is a block happening at the router or switch level, or via the ISP's threat protection.
Can you share what settings you had to change?

Required Inbound & Outbound Network Ports
The standard ports designated for DISH Hopper configurations include:
    • TCP Port 80 – HTTP communication
    • TCP Port 443 – HTTPS secure communication
    • TCP Port 5678 – Neighbor Discovery / Device Sync
    • UDP Port 80 – Alternative streaming/network data
    • UDP Port 443 – Alternative secure media streams
    • UDP Port 5678 – Remote pairing and network discovery
Critical Network & Security Considerations
    • UPnP (Universal Plug and Play): Enabling UPnP on your router is the easiest way to allow the Hopper to automatically handle its own port maps.
    Internal Communication (MoCA & Local LAN): The Hopper Plus and Joeys communicate internally over your local home network using router's default internal traffic policies. Local firewall software or strict internal VLAN isolation can block the Hopper 3 from seeing the Hopper Plus or Joey extensions.

    The other thing is that these are streaming channels which was why I asked if they have worked correctly even without the Hopper Plus as checking the post history of the OP, it appears that the Hopper Plus was added around 1/2 a year ago and from looking at my own Internet settings portion, all the Hopper 3 does is really measure signal strenth for WiFi and probably just check ping times to show it is connected or not to the internet, it does not check the actual speed or latency. Since the OP has a Hopper Plus, OP can always install the Speedtest app for diagnostics and then take a photo of the results and post it here. Before 2017, I used tȯhave 6Mbps/768Kbps ADSL and even though the Hopper 1 and Hopper 3 also showed internet connectivity is okay, everytime my Ring Doorbell is uploading, it would knock the entire internet connection off-line as the upload pipe would be 100% filled by the Ring Door bell uploading the video because the ACKnowledgement packets would not have priority being sent back in time which was fixed with QoS traffic shaping but that still does not mean streaming will work as it requires at least 25Mbps minimum or more if there are other devices on the same connection sharing the bandwidth.


    ​
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jsmit86
Can you share what settings you had to change?

Required Inbound & Outbound Network Ports
The standard ports designated for DISH Hopper configurations include:
    • TCP Port 80 – HTTP communication
    • TCP Port 443 – HTTPS secure communication
    • TCP Port 5678 – Neighbor Discovery / Device Sync
    • UDP Port 80 – Alternative streaming/network data
    • UDP Port 443 – Alternative secure media streams
    • UDP Port 5678 – Remote pairing and network discovery
Critical Network & Security Considerations
    • UPnP (Universal Plug and Play): Enabling UPnP on your router is the easiest way to allow the Hopper to automatically handle its own port maps.
    • Internal Communication (MoCA & Local LAN): The Hopper Plus and Joeys communicate internally over your local home network using router's default internal traffic policies. Local firewall software or strict internal VLAN isolation can block the Hopper 3 from seeing the Hopper Plus or Joey extensions.The other thing is that these are streaming channels which was why I asked if they have worked correctly even without the Hopper Plus as checking the post history of the OP, it appears that the Hopper Plus was added around 1/2 a year ago and from looking at my own Internet settings portion, all the Hopper 3 does is really measure signal strenth for WiFi and probably just check ping times to show it is connected or not to the internet, it does not check the actual speed or latency. Since the OP has a Hopper Plus, OP can always install the Speedtest app for diagnostics and then take a photo of the results and post it here. Before 2017, I used tȯhave 6Mbps/768Kbps ADSL and even though the Hopper 1 and Hopper 3 also showed internet connectivity is okay, everytime my Ring Doorbell is uploading, it would knock the entire internet connection off-line as the upload pipe would be 100% filled by the Ring Door bell uploading the video because the ACKnowledgement packets would not have priority being sent back in time which was fixed with QoS traffic shaping but that still does not mean streaming will work as it requires at least 25Mbps minimum or more if there are other devices on the same connection sharing the bandwidth.
This was for port settings for the switch, not the router.

Originally was recommended to use EDGE vs. Infrastructure, but had to change that back to Infrastructure.

Had to leave STP (Spanning tree protocol) ON, but disable BPDU guard, and also had to disable Non-STP loop protection.

The previous settings were flagging normal dish system packets as a data loop, and fully blocked that port on the UniFI Pro Max 16 POE switch.

These were specific to my managed switch, and may not apply to the OP's issue.
Peter Parker
Supporting Founder Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
No idea what improvements might be involved.
30 Replies · 1780 views
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rvvaquero
That's a lot of information to ingest. However, I don't have the Hopper Plus and my 54 remote is doing crazy things to the Hopper 3. Several times each evening when I press the skip forward button several times to advance through a commercial, it switches the receiver either onto live TV or into suspension. Other buttons will also cause this randomly, I haven't established any patterns I can describe. I use "recall" to go back to my recorded program in progress.

Needless to say, something in the newer Hopper 3 softwares has caused the remote functioning to ......................malfunction. Evidently, it applies to third party remotes as well as DISH's own remotes.
GRB1959
That's a lot of information to ingest. However, I don't have the Hopper Plus and my 54 remote is doing crazy things to the Hopper 3. Several times each evening when I press the skip forward button several times to advance through a commercial, it switches the receiver either onto live TV or into suspension. Other buttons will also cause this randomly, I haven't established any patterns I can describe. I use "recall" to go back to my recorded program in progress.

Needless to say, something in the newer Hopper 3 softwares has caused the remote functioning to ......................malfunction. Evidently, it applies to third party remotes as well as DISH's own remotes.

This is exactly the same issue I was having as I had the Hopper 3 and 54 remote without the Hopper Plus and the symptoms were virtually identical to yours.
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ERSanders
We have had a corolary problem in this and the prior s/w. Using several different 40.0 remotes (yeah, we're old), when one pauses a live or recorded show it becomes a crap shoot whether it will step foreward the 30" as requested, jump to the end, or restart the episode. Tried the famous 60" reboot to no avail and have decided to live with it vs. a receiver swap risk.
T
I think there's a change to the "skip forward 30 seconds". With CBS that does not have auto-skip, if you stack up a bunch of 30 second forwards it seems to stop when the kangaroo signaling the end of the commercial break appears.
long_time_Dish
Also posted this in the 3rd party remote thread.

My Hopper 3 updated itself to H713 last week and the IR issue is worse now. On H711, I could be on an SD channel for several hours and the IR side of my H3 would still be responsive without my having to tap the View button on my Pronto Pro every 15 minutes. Now, if I stay even on an SD channel without tapping the View button at least once an hour, it becomes unresponsive to my Pronto Pro without tapping the View button at least 5-20 times, just like on the HD and 4K channels. So, H713 actually made the issue worse. :(

brittanygarden
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WildBill
· posted in DISH Network Support Forum
I've been having intermittent problems with Amazon Prime video programs loading using the H3 guide listing. I can get to the program I want to watch, but when I try to view it, it starts to load and then stalls. Eventually, a screen pops up saying "something went wrong, try again later". I've tried rebooting the hopper without success. Sometimes switching the HDMI input on my LG TV works, but not always. I don't have this problem on my phone or computer, so it is not a network or router issue.

I did a quick google search and found that this is a common problem associated with overloading or corruption of the data cache in the Amazon app and the solution is to clear the cache. Easy to do on a computer or phone, but I don't know how to do this on the H3. If anyone a solution or suggestion, I'd appreciate some help. Thanks.
0 Replies · 16 views
dfergie
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU!
Last reply · posted in What's Cooking?
We have a Breakfast and Dinner thread so... :)
Continuing from the Breakfast thread, found Cornbread mix so ...
Yellow Cornbread Mix
2 Hatch Green Chiles -diced
1 Egg
2/3 cup of milk
add to greased pan
Bake for 400f 20-25 minutes(From instructions)
now to put together and try... this to go with pinto beans...
5452 Replies · 336396 views
dfergie
IMG_5955.webp

Sweet tea…
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TRG
TRG
Tuna salad sandwich on toasted honey whole wheat bread with a handful of kettle chips. Water.
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TRG
TRG
Breakfast for lunch. Crispy corned beef hash, home fries, two over easy eggs and sourdough toast.

1653.webp
TRG
TRG
Grabbed a burrito on the run. Beef, pinto beans, green chile and cheese. Stewart's cream soda.

burr.webp
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dfergie
Beef, bean green chile, cheese homemade burritos here... Water
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Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68707 Replies · 2683082 views
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dishstaller
The First Time Ever I Saw Your Face - Roberta Flack
harshness
In the Still of the Night - The Five Satins
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Bobby
I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For - David Cook
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sdfntx
Looking for the Next Best Thing - Warren Zevon
long_time_Dish
Werewolves Of London - Warren Zevon
dishstaller
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Was raining yesterday so I went to Sams up in Dothan to stock up on some things. Haven't been there in quite a while. I was amazed at how large most of the TVs were. When I walked in they had a 100 in Vizio (I think it was Vizio) that was marked down to something like $1,200. The first rows of TVs were all in the 80 in + sizes. The next couple of rows had the "smaller" models....those 75 and under. I was amazed at how small the 75s looked when lined up with the larger screens.
4 Replies · 54 views
osu1991
Q-LED and Mini LED panels have improved the picture quality and the tv's are so thin and nearly without bezels now. I've thought about replacing the 75in 4k DV/HDR LED Sony in my living room with a newer 86in. That's as big as I can go without construction changes. I watch the 75in 4k DV/HDR Q-LED in my bedroom and the difference between the two is very noticeable. There's nothing wrong with the living room tv though and I don't now that I actually watch enough anymore to really justify it. I could move it out to the patio but the 65in Q-LED out there looks really good and I'd have to change the mount to accomdate a larger tv out there.
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Foxbat
I'm at a limit for TV sizes at this time. My Father-in-Law crafted a custom entertainment center for our family room and we were restricted from going too big based on the side cabinets and central bridge fitting in the width of the room. It turns out to be where a 55" screen with bezels fits but no 65" bezel-less screen can fit. I think there was a brief period where 58" screens where a thing, but no more.

So, no huge screens for the Foxbat's…
TRG
TRG
I'm at a limit for TV sizes at this time. My Father-in-Law crafted a custom entertainment center for our family room and we were restricted from going too big based on the side cabinets and central bridge fitting in the width of the room. It turns out to be where a 55" screen with bezels fits but no 65" bezel-less screen can fit. I think there was a brief period where 58" screens where a thing, but no more.

So, no huge screens for the Foxbat's…

55" is plenty big.
dishstaller
55" is plenty big.
And to think....I was SO proud of myself when I bought a 27 in TV in the late 80s. Everyone just had a 25 in so I was really in high cotton.
TRG
TRG
Pub Member / Supporter
· posted in The Chit Chat Club
I've pretty much done most things in Ireland and I'm thinking about the other side of the Irish sea. I'm thinking about traveling to Wales this summer. My second choice would be Scotland. I don't want anything to do with London except maybe landing in Heathrow and then escaping quickly.

Any tips or experiences to share?
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