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Dee_Ann
Last reply · posted in Free To Air (FTA) Discussion
*solved* - Stupid question about PC stuff

Hi guys, I don't know where else I can go to for an answer and you guys are all really smart so I thought I would try here.I have a desktop PC that I do my internet stuff on and it's horribly slow.But it's a few years old and all the stuff in it has been discontinued. :(I want to double the memory in it. It runs Ubuntu but I'm really tired of the extreme slowness of it so I want to make it into a Mac OSX machine. I've found websites that tell you how to do it. I bought a physical copy of Snow Leopard and I'm planning on buying an upgrade to Lion soon. It used to be really fast when I had an OLD copy of Ubuntu on it but when I "upgraded" (HA!) to the newest version, it got horrible, horrible slow.So, the PC has 4gb of memory. I want to double it to 8gb of memory.But when I tried to locate more of the same memory that's already in it, there is none to be found. Discontinued.What's in there now is this: Newegg.com - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1200 (PC2 9600) Desktop Memory Model F2-9600CL6D-4GBRHIt says it is DDR2. I don't know what DDR is and don't care. But I realize that it's important for the compatibility.So my question is, can I replace my DDR2 memory with DDR3 memory? I see that DDR2 is yesteryear and DDR3 is what's hot at the moment and there is plenty of that stuff to be found.Or am I just out of luck and stuck in yesteryear with this thing?Thanks! :)
44 Replies · 5455 views
JAG72
Since you have the GIGABYTE GA-X48-DQ6 you can use any of the following memory.

DDR2 1200/1066/800/667MHz

I would stick to the DDR2 1066 modules.

Newegg.com - Computer Hardware, Memory, Desktop Memory, DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500), 4GB (2 x 2GB)
Dee_Ann
Since you have the GIGABYTE GA-X48-DQ6 you can use any of the following memory.

DDR2 1200/1066/800/667MHz

I would stick to the DDR2 1066 modules.

Newegg.com - Computer Hardware, Memory, Desktop Memory, DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500), 4GB (2 x 2GB)


Ok, so here's some more stupid questions.

I'm looking at the memory on Newegg and I see they have them with different specifications.

For instance, it says on some of them CAS Latency 5 or 7.
I see also they list "Timing 5-5-5-15"

And they are all different voltages. What do those things mean and which is better, lower or higher numbers?
They just assume everyone knows all these cryptic numbers and codes..

I guess I will have to buy four memories and remove the two that are in there now so that all four are a matched set, right?
I read somewhere that you have to do that, that if they are mismatched it will make it crash a lot. I certainly don't want crashing.

Thanks! :)
JAG72
For instance, it says on some of them CAS Latency 5 or 7.

The lower the CAS Latency the better. You also don't need to have all the same within the system. The memory will downgrade itself to the lowest common denominator.

I fully understand you hate to Windows. Have you also thought of trying a different version of Linux (Fedora or OpenSuSE)?
Dee_Ann
The lower the CAS Latency the better. You also don't need to have all the same within the system. The memory will downgrade itself to the lowest common denominator.

I fully understand you hate to Windows. Have you also thought of trying a different version of Linux (Fedora or OpenSuSE)?


Thank you for the clarification on the memory. You just saved me some money.. :)


As for the Linux, no.

I just sunk about $4,500 into a camera so I need to have REAL photo and video editing. Nothing exists for Linux to do that.
There is Gimp which s*cks and for video, there just isn't anything at all.

I'm going to spend another $8,000 to $10,000 on additional lenses this year coming so I'm getting super serious about my photography now.
I like the idea of "free" like Linux is supposed to be about but "free" offers nothing to do the things I need.

I need to get the Adobe stuff for photos and video and those do not work on Linux. I despise windows so that leaves OSX.

I have several old Macs but they are too old to do modern things. Most of them are the old Powerpc chips which Apple abandoned. Nothing is supported or offered for them anymore. :(
I have an old Intel Mac but it's one of the very first ones and it can't upgrade beyond Tiger. It's stuck in Tigerland forever. They all still work just fine but they are soooooo far behind the times now and just will not do the things I need.

I really would like to have a Mac Pro, I see they have a 12 core but there are things about it I don't like. I would rather buy it without their puny little disk and put a bunch of much larger disks in it myself for a lot less money. I don't like that it has an ATI video card but I doubt that can be changed out for an Nvidia. And Apple overcharges by a great deal on their stuff. And I hate their planned obsolescence policy.

Maybe next year I'll buy one but it's rather unlikely. That's why I'm wanting to build one.

What I do like about Apple is that they are 100% reliable and very easy to use. You can not say that about Linux or Windows. Linux is much more reliable than windows but it's many times more difficult to use and there's no commercial apps for it and the free apps, stink. It's great though if all you do is browse the internet, do email, facebook, etc.. Windows is a constant pain, you spend all your time fighting viruses and you have to have THREE anti-virus programs running at the same time to cover what the others might miss. This slows it down so much it's unbearable. And it's a never ending money pit. NOTHING for windows is free. Even "free" things come at a price, full of spyware, toolbars, viruses, begware, etc.. Nope... I'm done with windows. I only wish I could be rid of it on my home theater machine too but I haven't found a satellite tuner yet that can do what it does so I tolerate it, from a distance.
whatchel1
Bongo is giving you some good advice. Sounds like the Media Center you have been using is the one that was before W 7 came out. It is more kluge than W7. In fact the GUI (for W7 {graphical user interface} is more like Mac and there was some not too nice words tween MS and Mac (and maybe a law suit that was settled).
whatchel1
Here's info on what is know as Hackintosh. That is running OS X on a PC. DOWNLOAD Think Different: How to Build Your Own Hackintosh Make not there is no tech support what so ever for these machines. It maybe a royal pain to do this but thought it should be linked here for those like Dee_Ann that are interested. Not the easiest thing to accomplish.
bobvick
And Apple overcharges by a great deal on their stuff. And I hate their planned obsolescence policy.

You will never be able to get MacOS X to work correctly on a PC. The reason is, Apple is a closed system by design, they design the software and the hardware that it runs on, that is why Apples "just work." That is the reason that you cannot easily get their operating system to work on any third party hardware. If you do get it to work it will be on some type of emulating software and it will never work the way that it was designed. As far as a "planned obsolescence policy" I do not know where you got that idea, I have a four going on five year old MacBook Pro with 2GB of memory and a dual core intel chip that runs OS X 10.7 and it is as fast if not faster than when I got it. You might pay more for an Apple to begin with, but at least from my experience they seem to stay for the lack of a better word "faster" longer, of course I am a hard core Mac fan. Also, why do you think you need a Mac Pro? Seems to be a bit of overkill. Why don't you take a look at some of the iMac's?
pro96
You will never be able to get MacOS X to work correctly on a PC. I do not know where you got the idea that Apple has a "planned obsolescence policy." I have a four year old MacBook Pro that runs OS X 10.7 and it is as fast if not faster than it was when it was new. Apple is a closed system by design, they design the hardware and the software that it runs on, that is why it works. That is the reason that you cannot easily get their operating system to work on any third party hardware. If you do get it to work it will be on some type of emulating software and it will never work the way that it was designed. They also have excellent service.

Am running 10.7 just fine on my Dell Studio 13

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
B
Time to move this to the computer and hardware section?

Sent from my Timex Sinclair using SatelliteGuys
natevw
Last reply · posted in FTA Receiver / Equipment Support
Hi all, I recently inherited a FTA system off Craiglist and have been trying to get it set up. What I got was a Glorystar-branded ~90cm offset dish with a ground mount (/flat roof) frame, and GEOSATpro DSR200c receiver. From that initial equipment, I've replaced the old LNBF with a (cheap!) new one and also splurged on an SG-2100 H-H motorized rotor which does respond from the receiver's USALS menu.

The previous owner had it set up for religious programming on Galaxy 19 and I've been trying to start by finding that same bird at least. After a couple sessions I'm not sure I have, but I've found *something* at least! A handful of motor ticks further than the dish wants to be for 97W after starting from motor 0 pointing as much south as I can guess at. (I don't have great references to aim for and it's really hard to sight where exactly the dish is pointing anyway….)

Anyway, so far there's only one transponder that I've ever been able to catch as I search. It's 12146 V and when the receiver scans it I get this list of video channels:
  • 1.1 Srv_1
  • 2.84 OU_Chan
  • 3.2 Srv_2
  • 4.5 Srv_5
  • 5.3 Srv_3
  • 6.4 Srv_4
  • 7.6 Srv_6
  • 8.7 Srv_7
There's iirc three audio channels it finds too but I didn't get a good snapshot of those. All the channels except for one seem to be dead (black screen and silent audio), except for the OU_Chan one which on both days I found it was just rolling one same ad over and over on a loop. I won't repeat the full roll since I don't want to spam the forums as my first post 😇 but it's a long-winded spiel about "you know us as an industry-leading satellite solutions provider with over a quarter million sites" and to call them For All Your Every Needs™ type thing.

While I get little blips from other frequencies, this is the only strong transponder I've been able to come across. My receiver shows it as S 75 and Q up to 85 when I adjust it. It actually seemed to get better as I **un**skewed my LBNF — iiuc G19 was supposed to be -20º for me but however I'm supposed to be reading/referencing the angles the puck is now basically at 0º relative to the dish/arm got the strongest on this transponder.

Anyway sorry this is so long winded already… my question is, do I even have the right satellite? None of the other transponders that are supposed to be active on G-19 seem to come in. And if not the right satellite does anyone happen to recognize which one I might have found instead? I think knowing that would help me then adjust for a truer south aim and then hopeful the USALS will work automatically once I can get it dialed in.
9 Replies · 243 views
cyberham
Correct LO setting to 10600 MHz. Set receiver to 12053 V 22000. Use USALS to motor over to 97W Galaxy 19. Then, loosen bolts and rotate entire assembly (motor & dish) very slightly east or west until you peak on that transponder.

You should be able to blind scan in 6 transponders (DVB-S) and dozens of channels.

When using a motor, just set skew of LNB for 0 degrees and don't change it. The motor automatically rotates the dish to the correct skew.
natevw
Correct LO setting to 10600 MHz. Set receiver to 12053 V 22000. Use USALS to motor over to 97W Galaxy 19. Then, loosen bolts and rotate entire assembly (motor & dish) very slightly east or west until you peak on that transponder.
Done and done and done! I ended up doing a bit more iteration (back and forth between the left-right and up-down adjustments) but I've now got it landing on G19 at its default position for 97W.

You should be able to blind scan in 6 transponders (DVB-S) and dozens of channels.
Yep, ended up with a page or two full on my receiver's search. Didn't double-check that my receiver has all six of the right transponders but I can mess with that later if it turns out I'm missing something interesting but still DVB-S / MPEG-2 compatible.
When using a motor, just set skew of LNB for 0 degrees and don't change it. The motor automatically rotates the dish to the correct skew.
Yep, can see definite signal degradation as soon as I skew the LNB either way from "straight" (seam on the LNB lined up with the clamps on the mounting bracket). Will make setup easier if I want to try swapping anything else in!

I don't know if there's any good (unencrypted, DVB-S) satellite farther away to really check the sweep against, but I was at least able to program in my original find at 101.0 W back in (now at the correct "12000 V 20000" setting) and can get both birds automatically.

Shouldn't be *that* exciting since it's just an ad, but still really fun to choose channels on the other one and have it jog over and lock on 🤓
cyberham
Motor over to 123W Galaxy 18 and try for 12078 V 3680 (Korean Broadcasting System). It is DVB-S. And 12008 H 12660 (Daystar mux) on the same satellite.

Beyond these, you'll need your new receiver that supports DVB-S2.
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B
Done and done and done! I ended up doing a bit more iteration (back and forth between the left-right and up-down adjustments) but I've now got it landing on G19 at its default position for 97W.


Yep, ended up with a page or two full on my receiver's search. Didn't double-check that my receiver has all six of the right transponders but I can mess with that later if it turns out I'm missing something interesting but still DVB-S / MPEG-2 compatible.

Yep, can see definite signal degradation as soon as I skew the LNB either way from "straight" (seam on the LNB lined up with the clamps on the mounting bracket). Will make setup easier if I want to try swapping anything else in!

I don't know if there's any good (unencrypted, DVB-S) satellite farther away to really check the sweep against, but I was at least able to program in my original find at 101.0 W back in (now at the correct "12000 V 20000" setting) and can get both birds automatically.

Shouldn't be *that* exciting since it's just an ad, but still really fun to choose channels on the other one and have it jog over and lock on 🤓
beside 123W, another one to try (if it's above the horizon at your location) is Hispasat @30W. It has at least 2 DVB-S transponders with SD/Mpeg2 channels
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natevw
Motor over to 123W Galaxy 18 and try for 12078 V 3680 (Korean Broadcasting System). It is DVB-S. And 12008 H 12660 (Daystar mux) on the same satellite.

No luck finding this one. I motor over and it seems like a pretty dead spot of sky. I did get a slight blip (Q up to 1% or 2%) if I lowered the dish slightly. So I wonder if my polar mount itself maybe needs a bit of fine tuning?

Even when loosening the bolts and manually nudging the dish up/down/left/right nothing seemed to really wake it [new receiver, see below!] up and never saw anything more than 4% or 5% which I don't know is even real or could have been just noise?

beside 123W, another one to try (if it's above the horizon at your location) is Hispasat @30W.
I'm in Washington state (northwest CONUS) so this one's not an option for me.

Beyond these, you'll need your new receiver that supports DVB-S2.
I now have a V8 Finder 2 :-)

I've been able to scan in more now on G-19, and as well as watching the ad on SES 1 and getting some PBS stations there and G-16 both. So three satellites kinda in the general vicinity of each other (97W/101W/99.1W) programmed and able to rotate between.

Is G-18 at 123W as strong as the others? According to Satbeams I should be at least somewhat in its footprint although it looks like it's maybe focused more on Alaska.

Now that I'm back at my computer waiting for the Finder to charge back up looks like the Eutelsat(s) 117W have a couple Ku transponders I could look for too.
cyberham
On 117W, try for BVN. It has a C/N lock of just 1.0 dB so it's easy to receive. See transponder data on Lyngsat. 123W is receivable. Your motor is not perfectly on the arc yet.
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T
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Hello everyone, new guy here. I'm trying to solve problem I'm having with Dish bonus view channels. When I'm watching the bonus view channels then I switch back to regular dish channels, after few minutes the screen flips to black and after 30 seconds flips back to regular channels and continues to flip back and forth until I turn off TV. After I wait 30 minutes and turn back on , I can use regular channels again. So, its after I switch from bonus view channels to regular dish channels the problem starts. Been trying to fix this for a month, but no luck
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
4 Replies · 53 views
HipKat
Hello everyone, new guy here. I'm trying to solve problem I'm having with Dish bonus view channels. When I'm watching the bonus view channels then I switch back to regular dish channels, after few minutes the screen flips to black and after 30 seconds flips back to regular channels and continues to flip back and forth until I turn off TV. After I wait 30 minutes and turn back on , I can use regular channels again. So, its after I switch from bonus view channels to regular dish channels the problem starts. Been trying to fix this for a month, but no luck
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
First off, great TV. I'm torn between the 77C5 or the 77G5.
It sounds like the handshake between the Receiver and the TV is having a problem. Are you using the free cable that came with the Joey or a higher speed HDMI cable?? That's the f irst place I'd look
R
Hello everyone, new guy here. I'm trying to solve problem I'm having with Dish bonus view channels. When I'm watching the bonus view channels then I switch back to regular dish channels, after few minutes the screen flips to black and after 30 seconds flips back to regular channels and continues to flip back and forth until I turn off TV. After I wait 30 minutes and turn back on , I can use regular channels again. So, its after I switch from bonus view channels to regular dish channels the problem starts. Been trying to fix this for a month, but no luck
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
First off, The analog to digital switch, also known as the digital television transition, is the process of converting older analog television broadcasting technology to digital broadcasting. It's used through coaxial cable for the an antenna during the mandatory switch from Analog to Digital on June 12, 2009. You either had to get a converter for your analog (Tube TV) or use a converter box that has the analog or digital tuner or an HDTV which your is and has the tuner built in. Your TV is HD and using an HDMI Cable and nothing is connected by coaxial cable so this wouldn't apply.

In my theory it probably means a new TV. I had a TV go out on my switching between the Smart Screen from the HDMI inputs before because they went faulty. Sometimes electrical surges can cause this. If you have an older home or rent an older home or apartment sometimes the electrical outlets are not grounded and these days HDTV's need a ground which can cause them to malfunction and go bad quicker. Never plug it directly in an outlet. It will damage the TV.

Hope I could be of some assistance.

RJ T.
From Illinois
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T
First off, The analog to digital switch, also known as the digital television transition, is the process of converting older analog television broadcasting technology to digital broadcasting. It's used through coaxial cable for the an antenna during the mandatory switch from Analog to Digital on June 12, 2009. You either had to get a converter for your analog (Tube TV) or use a converter box that has the analog or digital tuner or an HDTV which your is and has the tuner built in. Your TV is HD and using an HDMI Cable and nothing is connected by coaxial cable so this wouldn't apply.

In my theory it probably means a new TV. I had a TV go out on my switching between the Smart Screen from the HDMI inputs before because they went faulty. Sometimes electrical surges can cause this. If you have an older home or rent an older home or apartment sometimes the electrical outlets are not grounded and these days HDTV's need a ground which can cause them to malfunction and go bad quicker. Never plug it directly in an outlet. It will damage the TV.

Hope I could be of some assistance.

RJ T.
From Illinois
Thank you for the information. I do keep the TV plugged into a surge protector, but we have had pretty strong thunderstorms/lightning in the last month so that have contributed to my problem.The house was built in 2009 so everything seems to be grounded correctly. We have had a power surge also. Seems like no one fixes anything any more, so just get a new one or live with the problem. Thanks
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T
First off, great TV. I'm torn between the 77C5 or the 77G5.
It sounds like the handshake between the Receiver and the TV is having a problem. Are you using the free cable that came with the Joey or a higher speed HDMI cable?? That's the f irst place I'd look
I think the HDMI cable is good, i used one of my own from my 4K atmos system, i'll switch it with another just to check. Also I have a bid in at Greentoe for 77" G5. Thanks
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natevw
Last reply · posted in FTA Receiver / Equipment Support
I'm having trouble finding a for sure answer on this. When I first started diving back into satellite stuff I noticed the GT Media V8 Finder2 which looks pretty cool and relatively low price point. But I can't find an answer, seems like some people (and Amazon's own AI guesser-bot) say it doesn't support motors.

The manual itself (the PDF that I found is named 20220718043903GTMEDIAV8FINDER2.pdf and it's on page 6 of 8) does show on the installation screen a "Motor Setup" menu item and says "If select DiSEqC1.2 or USALS, we can press ◀︎▶︎ to select IF Channel, and use number key to input Center Frequency."

Which…… the USALS part seems promising, but I don't know what IF and Center frequencies have to do with anything? Can it drive the motor off its battery for one, and does it have options for e.g. using the ◀︎▶︎ arrows to change the aim and save adjustments?
The closest I've found to real-world experience here is in Long shot with TBS6909X card where someone is talking about a different rotor and says:

> when I connect my V8 Finder 2, it immediately moves the dish if it's not in the correct position

which seems really promising! Moving the dish is what I'm after here, with something newer than the old MPEG-2 receiver I have now. Even for other receivers its really unclear if motor support is just pretty much a safe assumption that they don't even mention it anymore?

The V9 Prime actually looks pretty nice too and assuming it runs motors maybe that'd be better than the V8 Finder 2 for actual long term use since it has networking. But I'm having trouble finding listings for it (and actually most other receivers I see mentioned here) on Amazon or eBay or even Aliexpress. I'm wanting a DVB-S2 receiver for at least MPEG-4 with H.264/AVC and maybe should just get H.265/HEVC while I'm shopping. Main criteria:

* run my "Goto X"-era SG-2100 rotator
* be able to view most/all modern FTA satellites
* ideally a scheduled DVR feature and/or network would make it more useful
* I don't mind if it has… "alternative" firmwares or features but just for broader compatibility/interest

My main goal is I guess just exploration, seeing what's up there. Honestly not a big TV guy and definitely not into infomercials but if I can time shift the occasional Bob Ross or Mr. Rogers Neighborhood, or catch some world events as they're being uplinked, that sort of thing might be interesting. (Honestly main goal started out as weather satellites but this is kinda a warmup excercise for what will likely be a separate setup due to the frequencies.)

My dish is kinda far from my house and even farther from my "radio shack" so if I could just run a PoE ethernet line to something in a box below the dish, or a coax only to the crawlspace where I have 110V but either way would need it full remote including changing between satellites. To avoid having to buy and pull tons more coax up and down through the house. I'm into open source and real standards, so I'd much rather something that I can say use with VLC or go2rtc via a raw IP address and protocol rather than some convenient but proprietary iOS cloud app thingy.
3 Replies · 112 views
cyberham
I have the GT Media V9 prime receiver. It's a good modern receiver for its price. I think it's no longer available new since GT Media stopped making receivers.

The V9 supports USALS and Diseqc motor positioning. I have 125 feet of RG6 to my dish. I'd recommend 100 feet of cable maximum due to voltage drop issues as the cable gets longer. In my case, my motor works but at times when I move the motor I stay tuned to horizontal (H) transponders which sends a higher motor voltage than if tuned to a vertical (V) transponder.
natevw
Thanks, great tips and yeah when I'd read how the H/V bias worked I wondered if the higher voltage was ever useful for better power transfer :-)

It was perhaps slightly impulsive (though I guess not too late to cancel) but instead of the Finder unit I ended up going for kinda the opposite: a completely faceless USB tuner box (TBS5930) which should have RF support all the way up through DVB-S2X. If I'm understanding correctly the actual video/audio will then be whatever I can get software/GPU support for so my hope is that any unencrypted MPEG-2/AVC/HEVC feed can be viewed with VLC or whatnot. As well as access to what I assume is pure data like the Blockstream stuff just for example. (They had a lot of good resources for reception of their own signal in lots of various interesting ways and is kinda how I found the TBS options.)

And I think I will be able to control DiSEqC stuff through Linux including motor commands. So the idea is kinda what I mentioned, hoping this can just get chained in to an old thin client PC or if there's any Raspberry Pi that doesn't cost triple digits these days, somewhere physically convenient and then run it all over LAN from my laptop.

All this is somewhat theoretical of course based on what I'm piecing together but at a certain point I usually have to close all the browser tabs and just commit to try *something* that looks promising and go from there.
natevw
I'm having trouble finding a for sure answer on this.
Had a mixup with the TBS5930, got sent a cheaper Lite model than I paid for and am returning that. Ended up with the V8 Finder 2 after all.

And can confirm that it *does* have motor support! There's options for each satellite:

* None
* DiSEqC 1.2
* USALS

If you choose USALS (after setting device lat/lon) then it simply goes to where it thinks the satellite should be. If you arrow over to the DiSEqC option then you can press "OK" on it and pull up a menu with the ability to save position presets and also a motor nudge feature.

So between the two I can first choose USALS to get my initial setting, and then switch to DiSEqC to see if fine tuning helps.

That's all in the "Installation menu". When just watching channels it automatically switches between satellites too. Can even do a multi-satellite scan although it seemed it maybe didn't wait for the motor to finish before starting the scan.

when I move the motor I stay tuned to horizontal (H) transponders which sends a higher motor voltage

This is definitely noticeable on the Finder too, the motor goes a decent bit faster on H transponders.
Y
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Sports Section
Mexico takes on South Africa to open the World Cup Final (it is called the Final... this just isn't the World Cup Final... Final). The tournament has been plagued with rife malfeasance as FIFA has been committing all sorts of fraud with the ticket sales. Hotel rooms have gone unfilled as the prices to attend a game and stay somewhere are through the roof. I swear this is impacting Mansfield, OH hotel rates which are higher than average for the Indycar race. And there is a broadening VAR presence which will ruin things as nothing worse now when scoring a goal and knowing you can't quite celebrate yet as they check to see if a player was offside by a pixel a half-hour ago.

The Group Stage used to mean something, but now 32 of the 48... yeah, 48 teams are going to the Knockout Round. Getting into the Knockout Round used to be a big deal, even for the US. But now... if you don't lose all of your group stage games, you get to move on. Oi! And this is avoiding all the political stuff!

I have never been so unexcited for a World Cup before. Every game used to matter. But FIFA be darned if they don't try to squeeze out every dime they can out of the players, refs, and fans.
1 Replies · 19 views
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osu1991
I have no interest in watching it this year.
Bruce
Supporting Founder Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in Internet Television (IPTV) Discussion Forum
I was reading this article


That said this-
Last summer, for the first time, streaming services like Netflix and Amazon Prime claimed the largest share of the television viewing audience, surpassing both cable and broadcast TV. Streaming captured 34.8 percent of July viewers, according to Nielsen data, compared to 34.4 percent for cable and 21.6 percent for broadcast.

And then, sometime in the second half of 2022, cord-cutters became the majority. The share of cable and satellite television subscribers dipped to 48 percent, according to a report from Samba TV, a television technology company.


Now I do not consider those with YTTV and the likes, Cord Cutters, but they still do not have Traditional Cable/Satellite delivered Live TV, so I decided to do the math.

There are, now, 129 Million Households in the United States.

In 2015, there were 100 Million Cable/Sat Subscribers , no streaming Live TV Service.

Today, there are 66 Million Live TV subscribers, including Cable, Satellite and Streaming.

Roughly, Streaming Live TV has 14 Million subs including all of them.

So that means, Cable/Satellite now has, roughly, 51 Million Households

So in just 8 years, lost 49% of their subscribers and by the end of this year, expected sub count to be, roughly, 45 million households.

That means a total loss of 55% since 2015 at the end of 2023.

But out of 129 Million households, 45 million will mean only 35% will get Cable/Satellite Delivered Live TV by the end of 2023.

Imagine what 2024 will be like.
821 Replies · 69360 views
  • Wow
Reactions: MikeD-C05
Bruce
Comcast Corporation, one of the largest telecommunications and media conglomerates in the United States, has shed more than 13 million pay-TV subscribers since reaching its zenith in the late 2000s. The company's video subscriber base, which includes traditional cable television services, stood at approximately 24.2 million customers toward the end of 2008. By the close of the first quarter of 2026, that figure had plummeted to roughly10.95 million, representing a loss of about 13.25 million subscribers, or more than half of its historical peak.

  • Wow
Reactions: ncted
dishdude
Comcast Corporation, one of the largest telecommunications and media conglomerates in the United States, has shed more than 13 million pay-TV subscribers since reaching its zenith in the late 2000s. The company's video subscriber base, which includes traditional cable television services, stood at approximately 24.2 million customers toward the end of 2008. By the close of the first quarter of 2026, that figure had plummeted to roughly10.95 million, representing a loss of about 13.25 million subscribers, or more than half of its historical peak.


Couldn't happen to a nicer company!
Bruce
The average monthly cost of cable television in the United States has climbed to $147, marking a significant increase that reflects broader trends in media consumption and rising operational expenses for providers. This figure represents the baseline expense for standard television packages across major cable operators, excluding additional fees for premium channels, equipment rentals, or taxes that often push household bills even higher.

This is without Broadband services ( bundled), also, paying a lot more for a lot less new scripted content and now….sports.

T
Anyone know how Canadians are doing with cord cutting? I would think there could be added incentive simply in that Canadian cable/sat has been heavily regulated to exclude much of US content in order to promote home content. Streaming would seem to cut through any of that, presuming there aren't restrictions on that as well. Or maybe US streamers won't sell there?
NYDutch
Anyone know how Canadians are doing with cord cutting? I would think there could be added incentive simply in that Canadian cable/sat has been heavily regulated to exclude much of US content in order to promote home content. Streaming would seem to cut through any of that, presuming there aren't restrictions on that as well. Or maybe US streamers won't sell there?
Some of the most popular streaming apps, like YTTV, Netflix, Hulu, and others, are geo locked to at least one country, if not even tighter. There are ways around that for the technically inclined.