Social Feed

Dee_Ann
Last reply · posted in Free To Air (FTA) Discussion
Hi guys,

I can't find the section about PC stuff anymore so I don't really know where to post this.
If this is the wrong section then please forgive me, I'm a bit out of touch with the site lately..


Anyway..

So, I have some problems with a few PC's..

The PC that I have an S2 tuner card in, it's working ok I guess. BUT, it's ancient, in PC terms.

My ex built this machine for me several years ago. He installed windows 7 on it and then he put that app, My Theater 4. It appears to be written by some guy in Russia, as best as I can tell.
My ex, the idiot, registered the app to himself, in his name. I hounded him for 2-3 years to change it over to me. He never did. Now his name is stuck on the screen. That's annoying but it isn't a show stopper.
What IS a show stopper is that the Russian guy seems to have vanished and the app seems to be "abandonware" now. It seems that there are no more updates to it to support new things. :(

I'm stuck using this app, some of you who have been around awhile might remember a few years ago when I tried EVERY satellite app known to exist and ~none of them~ would deal with the unusual switch setup I have.
Overall, it's not that bad of an app, I just hate that it's stuck in time and they no longer support it. :(


So anyway, here's where my real problem is. My other computer died. It was a home made Hackintosh. I have replaced it with a totally new, ultra wicked Mac Pro.

What I want to do now is take the CPU from the dead Hackintosh which is an intel Core 2 Duo quad core and swap it into the satellite PC which is running a Core 2 Duo dual core CPU.
They are both LGA775 and I know that they are interchangeable. The motherboards are,
Gigabyte GA-X48T-DQ6 (the dead Hackntosh) - has the quad core CPU
and
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L (the satellite PC running My Theater 4) - has the dual core CPU

But what I'm worried about is that I have read that the Home Theater app is locked to THIS computer.
If I swap the CPU's out will the app stop working? How can I fix the app to not notice the CPU being changed? Or is the app locked to that machine forever?
Since the app writer has vanished I assume that eventually something major will fail on the PC that I will have to replace and then it's game over for that app.. Yes no?

Another question I have that's related to this, I want to build a file server out of the dead machine. Sometimes it will start but only gets to the initial Gigabyte logo screen then freezes dead.
Most of the time it won't even do that much. I removed the battery from the mother board and shorted out the pins for it's setup memory for like three weeks.
I think it's toast. But I have money invested in it. Last year I put 8gigs of memory in it. And there's the quad core.

Turns out, they don't make or sell LGA775 stuff anymore. :( I checked on ebay for a replacement board and they are just way to expensive for a USED board.
I need to find some sort of replacement LGA775 motherboard that has a lot of SATA connectors on it because I want to plug in a lot of old hard drives. I have a BIG case and a BIG power supply for it so there is no problem with putting 10 or 12 drives in it if I want.

I need to find a motherboard that's compatible with the CPU and the memory sticks I have so I don't have to buy new memory and a new CPU. I want to spend as little as possible. I'm hoping to find a motherboard that's under $50 that I can pop my memory sticks and CPU in.

MAYBE someone has an old LGA775 motherboard that will work with my memory and CPU that we could trade for some satellite stuff. I have a little collection nowdays..


TL;DR
Can I swap a dual core CPU for a quad core CPU without My Theater 4 having a stroke?


Thanks! :)
71 Replies · 10101 views
Tron
Just out of curiousity, Dee, who is the motherboard manufacturer? I usually only buy Asus or Supermicro boards when I'm doing a system build. I've inherited a board from A-Bit also, which seems to be trouble free.

By the way, building PCs requires as much or more patience as FTA. Just as with FTA, if something is being ornery and causing blood pressure to rise, get away from it for awhile before you throw it all off the roof (or table in the case of the PC) :D ...
northgeorgia
I've thought about a building a nice Media PC one day -- but Dee_Ann's experience frightens me, and I think I'd end up in a similar if not worse predicament! I wonder if those who were successful would upload their pictures and specifications, and share their experiences. Perhaps a new sub-form for Media / Satellite PC systems? Especially for a complete newbie like me (although I did install a new DVD drive when my other one ate a CD last year -- I was so happy) :) Just a thought...
Dee_Ann
Just out of curiousity, Dee, who is the motherboard manufacturer? I usually only buy Asus or Supermicro boards when I'm doing a system build. I've inherited a board from A-Bit also, which seems to be trouble free.


The board is made by intel, I assume the same people that make the CPU chips. Because of that assumption I also assumed it would be quality stuff.
It is a DG43RK model. http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/dg43rk/sb/CS-031256.htm


By the way, building PCs requires as much or more patience as FTA. Just as with FTA, if something is being ornery and causing blood pressure to rise, get away from it for awhile before you throw it all off the roof (or table in the case of the PC) :D ...



Gardening is my escape. I get my Zen on in the garden.. I spent most of my day today planting roses and rearranging 500lbs of egg sized rocks and flower pots.
IMG_7793.1.jpg



I've thought about a building a nice Media PC one day -- but Dee_Ann's experience frightens me, and I think I'd end up in a similar if not worse predicament! I wonder if those who were successful would upload their pictures and specifications, and share their experiences. Perhaps a new sub-form for Media / Satellite PC systems? Especially for a complete newbie like me (although I did install a new DVD drive when my other one ate a CD last year -- I was so happy) :) Just a thought...


Well, just remember, I'm not exactly what you would call a computer guru.. My experience and skills are rather limited. As the old saying goes, your milage may vary..
I have a tendency to let my eyes overload my plate. I get to reading stuff online and start thinking to myself, "Hey, I can do that!" but when it comes down to it, I always, always fall short.
It took me almost a year to figure out how to put up a simple ku dish by myself. And about that long, if not longer trying to put up a C-band dish.

In other words, I'm a bit of a slow learner about tech stuff. I'm sure you can do much better than I have..

:)
Tron
Intel boards are usually well designed. Perhaps this was a server motherboard. Server boards often require the use of error correcting (ECC) memory and only ECC memory. Perhaps this is the problem, not sure...

EDIT: Followed your link to the product support page, and no, it does not require ECC memory. It does suggest SPD memory, but may work without it. Perhaps there is a problem with the board itself. Motherboards do go bad, and sometimes don't work at all out of the box.
northgeorgia
Once I had put in the new DVD drive in my desktop computer, I felt so empowered that I thought -- hey, I'm going to try to install Linux on one of my slower laptops! So, I put in Puppy Linux, since it seemed easy to do. I wasn't impressed, though, and tried to uninstall it. Well, darn it, if I can't figure out how to do it :) Anyway, maybe I'm a slow learner, too. I know you're going to get that PC running at some point, DeeAnn, and can't wait to hear your impressions!
concord
I need a basic board with lots of SATA connectors. Period. That's the feature I'm looking for. The more, the better.
8 connectors? Cool! 10 connectors? Way cool !! Bring it on !!

I've purchased alot from newegg and they are usually pretty good at return/replacement. Haven't returned anything in several years and I don't remember a restock fee back then, but they've grown over the years. They state their return policies (http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/ReturnPolicy.aspx).

I doubt you are going to find more than 6 SATA connection on a motherboard, but you can always add a SATA card to it. If your system is going only act as a file server, then check out this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZT1FAI/?tag=satell01-20 Note that it's a ITX form size, smaller than the mATX, it has 6 - 6GB SATA ports, with only one (1) expansion slot, and as always, check the manual before purchasing for the types of memory it likes.
concord
I've thought about a building a nice Media PC one day -- but Dee_Ann's experience frightens me, and I think I'd end up in a similar if not worse predicament!...

Depending on what you want actions you want the media PC to perform, you can go from a small/quiet using a i3 low-watt processor, all the way to a more hefty system that will transcode (i.e. Plex server software) on the fly, read in DVD/Blu-rays and write them to your hard drive/NAS, etc. There is another place that has guides that list suggested components for a media center PC, based on what you want to do: http://www.avsforum.com/f/26/home-theater-computers


Once I had put in the new DVD drive in my desktop computer, I felt so empowered that I thought -- hey, I'm going to try to install Linux on one of my slower laptops! So, I put in Puppy Linux, since it seemed easy to do. I wasn't impressed, though, and tried to uninstall it. Well, darn it, if I can't figure out how to do it :) Anyway, maybe I'm a slow learner, too. I know you're going to get that PC running at some point, DeeAnn, and can't wait to hear your impressions!

If you installed Linux over top of your Win OS (completely re-formatted your hard drive), then all you do is get your Windows install discs and install it over the linux OS...you will need to delete/free up the Linux partitions during the install. If you a decent desktop and want to experiment with Linux versions or other OS and be able test other software, I would recommend getting VirtualBox (www.virtualbox.org) and use a virtual machine.
T
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Hello everyone, new guy here. I'm trying to solve problem I'm having with Dish bonus view channels. When I'm watching the bonus view channels then I switch back to regular dish channels, after few minutes the screen flips to black and after 30 seconds flips back to regular channels and continues to flip back and forth until I turn off TV. After I wait 30 minutes and turn back on , I can use regular channels again. So, its after I switch from bonus view channels to regular dish channels the problem starts. Been trying to fix this for a month, but no luck
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
5 Replies · 70 views
HipKat
Hello everyone, new guy here. I'm trying to solve problem I'm having with Dish bonus view channels. When I'm watching the bonus view channels then I switch back to regular dish channels, after few minutes the screen flips to black and after 30 seconds flips back to regular channels and continues to flip back and forth until I turn off TV. After I wait 30 minutes and turn back on , I can use regular channels again. So, its after I switch from bonus view channels to regular dish channels the problem starts. Been trying to fix this for a month, but no luck
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
First off, great TV. I'm torn between the 77C5 or the 77G5.
It sounds like the handshake between the Receiver and the TV is having a problem. Are you using the free cable that came with the Joey or a higher speed HDMI cable?? That's the f irst place I'd look
R
Hello everyone, new guy here. I'm trying to solve problem I'm having with Dish bonus view channels. When I'm watching the bonus view channels then I switch back to regular dish channels, after few minutes the screen flips to black and after 30 seconds flips back to regular channels and continues to flip back and forth until I turn off TV. After I wait 30 minutes and turn back on , I can use regular channels again. So, its after I switch from bonus view channels to regular dish channels the problem starts. Been trying to fix this for a month, but no luck
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
First off, The analog to digital switch, also known as the digital television transition, is the process of converting older analog television broadcasting technology to digital broadcasting. It's used through coaxial cable for the an antenna during the mandatory switch from Analog to Digital on June 12, 2009. You either had to get a converter for your analog (Tube TV) or use a converter box that has the analog or digital tuner or an HDTV which your is and has the tuner built in. Your TV is HD and using an HDMI Cable and nothing is connected by coaxial cable so this wouldn't apply.

In my theory it probably means a new TV. I had a TV go out on my switching between the Smart Screen from the HDMI inputs before because they went faulty. Sometimes electrical surges can cause this. If you have an older home or rent an older home or apartment sometimes the electrical outlets are not grounded and these days HDTV's need a ground which can cause them to malfunction and go bad quicker. Never plug it directly in an outlet. It will damage the TV.

Hope I could be of some assistance.

RJ T.
From Illinois
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
T
First off, The analog to digital switch, also known as the digital television transition, is the process of converting older analog television broadcasting technology to digital broadcasting. It's used through coaxial cable for the an antenna during the mandatory switch from Analog to Digital on June 12, 2009. You either had to get a converter for your analog (Tube TV) or use a converter box that has the analog or digital tuner or an HDTV which your is and has the tuner built in. Your TV is HD and using an HDMI Cable and nothing is connected by coaxial cable so this wouldn't apply.

In my theory it probably means a new TV. I had a TV go out on my switching between the Smart Screen from the HDMI inputs before because they went faulty. Sometimes electrical surges can cause this. If you have an older home or rent an older home or apartment sometimes the electrical outlets are not grounded and these days HDTV's need a ground which can cause them to malfunction and go bad quicker. Never plug it directly in an outlet. It will damage the TV.

Hope I could be of some assistance.

RJ T.
From Illinois
Thank you for the information. I do keep the TV plugged into a surge protector, but we have had pretty strong thunderstorms/lightning in the last month so that have contributed to my problem.The house was built in 2009 so everything seems to be grounded correctly. We have had a power surge also. Seems like no one fixes anything any more, so just get a new one or live with the problem. Thanks
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
T
First off, great TV. I'm torn between the 77C5 or the 77G5.
It sounds like the handshake between the Receiver and the TV is having a problem. Are you using the free cable that came with the Joey or a higher speed HDMI cable?? That's the f irst place I'd look
I think the HDMI cable is good, i used one of my own from my 4K atmos system, i'll switch it with another just to check. Also I have a bid in at Greentoe for 77" G5. Thanks
HipKat
I think the HDMI cable is good, i used one of my own from my 4K atmos system, i'll switch it with another just to check. Also I have a bid in at Greentoe for 77" G5. Thanks
I hope that works. I'm waiting til Black Friday sales
  • Like
Reactions: charlesrshell
natevw
Last reply · posted in FTA Receiver / Equipment Support
Hi all, I recently inherited a FTA system off Craiglist and have been trying to get it set up. What I got was a Glorystar-branded ~90cm offset dish with a ground mount (/flat roof) frame, and GEOSATpro DSR200c receiver. From that initial equipment, I've replaced the old LNBF with a (cheap!) new one and also splurged on an SG-2100 H-H motorized rotor which does respond from the receiver's USALS menu.

The previous owner had it set up for religious programming on Galaxy 19 and I've been trying to start by finding that same bird at least. After a couple sessions I'm not sure I have, but I've found *something* at least! A handful of motor ticks further than the dish wants to be for 97W after starting from motor 0 pointing as much south as I can guess at. (I don't have great references to aim for and it's really hard to sight where exactly the dish is pointing anyway….)

Anyway, so far there's only one transponder that I've ever been able to catch as I search. It's 12146 V and when the receiver scans it I get this list of video channels:
  • 1.1 Srv_1
  • 2.84 OU_Chan
  • 3.2 Srv_2
  • 4.5 Srv_5
  • 5.3 Srv_3
  • 6.4 Srv_4
  • 7.6 Srv_6
  • 8.7 Srv_7
There's iirc three audio channels it finds too but I didn't get a good snapshot of those. All the channels except for one seem to be dead (black screen and silent audio), except for the OU_Chan one which on both days I found it was just rolling one same ad over and over on a loop. I won't repeat the full roll since I don't want to spam the forums as my first post 😇 but it's a long-winded spiel about "you know us as an industry-leading satellite solutions provider with over a quarter million sites" and to call them For All Your Every Needs™ type thing.

While I get little blips from other frequencies, this is the only strong transponder I've been able to come across. My receiver shows it as S 75 and Q up to 85 when I adjust it. It actually seemed to get better as I **un**skewed my LBNF — iiuc G19 was supposed to be -20º for me but however I'm supposed to be reading/referencing the angles the puck is now basically at 0º relative to the dish/arm got the strongest on this transponder.

Anyway sorry this is so long winded already… my question is, do I even have the right satellite? None of the other transponders that are supposed to be active on G-19 seem to come in. And if not the right satellite does anyone happen to recognize which one I might have found instead? I think knowing that would help me then adjust for a truer south aim and then hopeful the USALS will work automatically once I can get it dialed in.
9 Replies · 255 views
cyberham
Correct LO setting to 10600 MHz. Set receiver to 12053 V 22000. Use USALS to motor over to 97W Galaxy 19. Then, loosen bolts and rotate entire assembly (motor & dish) very slightly east or west until you peak on that transponder.

You should be able to blind scan in 6 transponders (DVB-S) and dozens of channels.

When using a motor, just set skew of LNB for 0 degrees and don't change it. The motor automatically rotates the dish to the correct skew.
natevw
Correct LO setting to 10600 MHz. Set receiver to 12053 V 22000. Use USALS to motor over to 97W Galaxy 19. Then, loosen bolts and rotate entire assembly (motor & dish) very slightly east or west until you peak on that transponder.
Done and done and done! I ended up doing a bit more iteration (back and forth between the left-right and up-down adjustments) but I've now got it landing on G19 at its default position for 97W.

You should be able to blind scan in 6 transponders (DVB-S) and dozens of channels.
Yep, ended up with a page or two full on my receiver's search. Didn't double-check that my receiver has all six of the right transponders but I can mess with that later if it turns out I'm missing something interesting but still DVB-S / MPEG-2 compatible.
When using a motor, just set skew of LNB for 0 degrees and don't change it. The motor automatically rotates the dish to the correct skew.
Yep, can see definite signal degradation as soon as I skew the LNB either way from "straight" (seam on the LNB lined up with the clamps on the mounting bracket). Will make setup easier if I want to try swapping anything else in!

I don't know if there's any good (unencrypted, DVB-S) satellite farther away to really check the sweep against, but I was at least able to program in my original find at 101.0 W back in (now at the correct "12000 V 20000" setting) and can get both birds automatically.

Shouldn't be *that* exciting since it's just an ad, but still really fun to choose channels on the other one and have it jog over and lock on 🤓
cyberham
Motor over to 123W Galaxy 18 and try for 12078 V 3680 (Korean Broadcasting System). It is DVB-S. And 12008 H 12660 (Daystar mux) on the same satellite.

Beyond these, you'll need your new receiver that supports DVB-S2.
  • Like
Reactions: Brct203
B
Done and done and done! I ended up doing a bit more iteration (back and forth between the left-right and up-down adjustments) but I've now got it landing on G19 at its default position for 97W.


Yep, ended up with a page or two full on my receiver's search. Didn't double-check that my receiver has all six of the right transponders but I can mess with that later if it turns out I'm missing something interesting but still DVB-S / MPEG-2 compatible.

Yep, can see definite signal degradation as soon as I skew the LNB either way from "straight" (seam on the LNB lined up with the clamps on the mounting bracket). Will make setup easier if I want to try swapping anything else in!

I don't know if there's any good (unencrypted, DVB-S) satellite farther away to really check the sweep against, but I was at least able to program in my original find at 101.0 W back in (now at the correct "12000 V 20000" setting) and can get both birds automatically.

Shouldn't be *that* exciting since it's just an ad, but still really fun to choose channels on the other one and have it jog over and lock on 🤓
beside 123W, another one to try (if it's above the horizon at your location) is Hispasat @30W. It has at least 2 DVB-S transponders with SD/Mpeg2 channels
  • Like
Reactions: cyberham
natevw
Motor over to 123W Galaxy 18 and try for 12078 V 3680 (Korean Broadcasting System). It is DVB-S. And 12008 H 12660 (Daystar mux) on the same satellite.

No luck finding this one. I motor over and it seems like a pretty dead spot of sky. I did get a slight blip (Q up to 1% or 2%) if I lowered the dish slightly. So I wonder if my polar mount itself maybe needs a bit of fine tuning?

Even when loosening the bolts and manually nudging the dish up/down/left/right nothing seemed to really wake it [new receiver, see below!] up and never saw anything more than 4% or 5% which I don't know is even real or could have been just noise?

beside 123W, another one to try (if it's above the horizon at your location) is Hispasat @30W.
I'm in Washington state (northwest CONUS) so this one's not an option for me.

Beyond these, you'll need your new receiver that supports DVB-S2.
I now have a V8 Finder 2 :-)

I've been able to scan in more now on G-19, and as well as watching the ad on SES 1 and getting some PBS stations there and G-16 both. So three satellites kinda in the general vicinity of each other (97W/101W/99.1W) programmed and able to rotate between.

Is G-18 at 123W as strong as the others? According to Satbeams I should be at least somewhat in its footprint although it looks like it's maybe focused more on Alaska.

Now that I'm back at my computer waiting for the Finder to charge back up looks like the Eutelsat(s) 117W have a couple Ku transponders I could look for too.
  • Like
Reactions: cyberham
cyberham
On 117W, try for BVN. It has a C/N lock of just 1.0 dB so it's easy to receive. See transponder data on Lyngsat. 123W is receivable. Your motor is not perfectly on the arc yet.
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
· posted in TWiT Tech Podcast Network
0 Replies · 5 views
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
· posted in TWiT Tech Podcast Network
0 Replies · 3 views
natevw
Last reply · posted in FTA Receiver / Equipment Support
I'm having trouble finding a for sure answer on this. When I first started diving back into satellite stuff I noticed the GT Media V8 Finder2 which looks pretty cool and relatively low price point. But I can't find an answer, seems like some people (and Amazon's own AI guesser-bot) say it doesn't support motors.

The manual itself (the PDF that I found is named 20220718043903GTMEDIAV8FINDER2.pdf and it's on page 6 of 8) does show on the installation screen a "Motor Setup" menu item and says "If select DiSEqC1.2 or USALS, we can press ◀︎▶︎ to select IF Channel, and use number key to input Center Frequency."

Which…… the USALS part seems promising, but I don't know what IF and Center frequencies have to do with anything? Can it drive the motor off its battery for one, and does it have options for e.g. using the ◀︎▶︎ arrows to change the aim and save adjustments?
The closest I've found to real-world experience here is in Long shot with TBS6909X card where someone is talking about a different rotor and says:

> when I connect my V8 Finder 2, it immediately moves the dish if it's not in the correct position

which seems really promising! Moving the dish is what I'm after here, with something newer than the old MPEG-2 receiver I have now. Even for other receivers its really unclear if motor support is just pretty much a safe assumption that they don't even mention it anymore?

The V9 Prime actually looks pretty nice too and assuming it runs motors maybe that'd be better than the V8 Finder 2 for actual long term use since it has networking. But I'm having trouble finding listings for it (and actually most other receivers I see mentioned here) on Amazon or eBay or even Aliexpress. I'm wanting a DVB-S2 receiver for at least MPEG-4 with H.264/AVC and maybe should just get H.265/HEVC while I'm shopping. Main criteria:

* run my "Goto X"-era SG-2100 rotator
* be able to view most/all modern FTA satellites
* ideally a scheduled DVR feature and/or network would make it more useful
* I don't mind if it has… "alternative" firmwares or features but just for broader compatibility/interest

My main goal is I guess just exploration, seeing what's up there. Honestly not a big TV guy and definitely not into infomercials but if I can time shift the occasional Bob Ross or Mr. Rogers Neighborhood, or catch some world events as they're being uplinked, that sort of thing might be interesting. (Honestly main goal started out as weather satellites but this is kinda a warmup excercise for what will likely be a separate setup due to the frequencies.)

My dish is kinda far from my house and even farther from my "radio shack" so if I could just run a PoE ethernet line to something in a box below the dish, or a coax only to the crawlspace where I have 110V but either way would need it full remote including changing between satellites. To avoid having to buy and pull tons more coax up and down through the house. I'm into open source and real standards, so I'd much rather something that I can say use with VLC or go2rtc via a raw IP address and protocol rather than some convenient but proprietary iOS cloud app thingy.
3 Replies · 119 views
cyberham
I have the GT Media V9 prime receiver. It's a good modern receiver for its price. I think it's no longer available new since GT Media stopped making receivers.

The V9 supports USALS and Diseqc motor positioning. I have 125 feet of RG6 to my dish. I'd recommend 100 feet of cable maximum due to voltage drop issues as the cable gets longer. In my case, my motor works but at times when I move the motor I stay tuned to horizontal (H) transponders which sends a higher motor voltage than if tuned to a vertical (V) transponder.
natevw
Thanks, great tips and yeah when I'd read how the H/V bias worked I wondered if the higher voltage was ever useful for better power transfer :-)

It was perhaps slightly impulsive (though I guess not too late to cancel) but instead of the Finder unit I ended up going for kinda the opposite: a completely faceless USB tuner box (TBS5930) which should have RF support all the way up through DVB-S2X. If I'm understanding correctly the actual video/audio will then be whatever I can get software/GPU support for so my hope is that any unencrypted MPEG-2/AVC/HEVC feed can be viewed with VLC or whatnot. As well as access to what I assume is pure data like the Blockstream stuff just for example. (They had a lot of good resources for reception of their own signal in lots of various interesting ways and is kinda how I found the TBS options.)

And I think I will be able to control DiSEqC stuff through Linux including motor commands. So the idea is kinda what I mentioned, hoping this can just get chained in to an old thin client PC or if there's any Raspberry Pi that doesn't cost triple digits these days, somewhere physically convenient and then run it all over LAN from my laptop.

All this is somewhat theoretical of course based on what I'm piecing together but at a certain point I usually have to close all the browser tabs and just commit to try *something* that looks promising and go from there.
natevw
I'm having trouble finding a for sure answer on this.
Had a mixup with the TBS5930, got sent a cheaper Lite model than I paid for and am returning that. Ended up with the V8 Finder 2 after all.

And can confirm that it *does* have motor support! There's options for each satellite:

* None
* DiSEqC 1.2
* USALS

If you choose USALS (after setting device lat/lon) then it simply goes to where it thinks the satellite should be. If you arrow over to the DiSEqC option then you can press "OK" on it and pull up a menu with the ability to save position presets and also a motor nudge feature.

So between the two I can first choose USALS to get my initial setting, and then switch to DiSEqC to see if fine tuning helps.

That's all in the "Installation menu". When just watching channels it automatically switches between satellites too. Can even do a multi-satellite scan although it seemed it maybe didn't wait for the motor to finish before starting the scan.

when I move the motor I stay tuned to horizontal (H) transponders which sends a higher motor voltage

This is definitely noticeable on the Finder too, the motor goes a decent bit faster on H transponders.
  • Like
Reactions: cyberham
Y
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in The Sports Section
Mexico takes on South Africa to open the World Cup Final (it is called the Final... this just isn't the World Cup Final... Final). The tournament has been plagued with rife malfeasance as FIFA has been committing all sorts of fraud with the ticket sales. Hotel rooms have gone unfilled as the prices to attend a game and stay somewhere are through the roof. I swear this is impacting Mansfield, OH hotel rates which are higher than average for the Indycar race. And there is a broadening VAR presence which will ruin things as nothing worse now when scoring a goal and knowing you can't quite celebrate yet as they check to see if a player was offside by a pixel a half-hour ago.

The Group Stage used to mean something, but now 32 of the 48... yeah, 48 teams are going to the Knockout Round. Getting into the Knockout Round used to be a big deal, even for the US. But now... if you don't lose all of your group stage games, you get to move on. Oi! And this is avoiding all the political stuff!

I have never been so unexcited for a World Cup before. Every game used to matter. But FIFA be darned if they don't try to squeeze out every dime they can out of the players, refs, and fans.
1 Replies · 23 views
  • Like
Reactions: osu1991
osu1991
I have no interest in watching it this year.
  • Like
Reactions: Mr Tony