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ancient
Last reply · posted in C-BAND Satellite Discussion
To me the most mysterious part of setting up a new dish is peaking the LNB. I read a lot of posts where people say that you have to aim the LNB precisely at the center of the dish, and that it should be an exact distance from the center. But this gets complicated by several factors that to me make this seem more like guesswork than science.

The first problem is that many LNB's and scaler rings are manufactured to very sloppy tolerances. It should not be possible to put an LNB into its matching scaler ring and aim it 15 or 20 degrees off center but unfortunately that is all too possible with some modern LNB's. So even if you get the scaler ring precisely centered somehow, you still have no idea if the LNB is centered since it can flop around inside the ring.

I have wondered why someone does make a small ring that would snap around the outside of an LNB, similar to the way a pair of headphones fits around your head (so it would fit LNB's of slightly varying sizes snugly), with about 8 laser LED's around the outside that all point straight down toward the center of the dish. If there is no way to make such a thing with enough precision to give good aim, then you understand why I say that trying to aim at the center is more guesswork than science.

I see people suggest a string test, for example to make sure the scaler ring is at an equal distance from the edge of the dish on all sides, or that the outer rim of the LNB is. First of all, I would love to know where people are getting this non-stretchy string that can measure with such great precision. Even kite string or fishing line will stretch a little when you pull on it and if you pull a little harder on one side than the other, your scaler ring or LNB will be off a little. And that assumes that you can attach the string at the exact same place for each measurement. And that when you get it right and go to tighten it down, nothing moves.

Then there is the problem of the support arms being a little to short or a little too long. Usually when you buy a LNB they do not give you very long bolts or screws for attaching the scaler ring, so you MIGHT get a couple washers between the scaler ring and the supports, but that's about it. And nowadays they may be using some weird metric bolt that would be difficult to find in a longer length in an American hardware store.

So then you do the calculation to figure out how far the LNB should be from the center of the dish, and where it should be in relation to the scaler ring. Some dishes have a bump or a metal plate in the center, so do you adjust for that? And where do you measure to on the LNB? The outer rim? The back of the throat (as if I really want to take that protective cover off and jab a metal tape measure in there!)? I don't know why LNB manufacturers don't inscribe some kind of measure line on the outside of the LNB, so you know where you're supposed to be measuring from. Or at least put a diagram on the box so you know where to measure from. I see some documents, probably written when most people were using Chaparral feedhorns with bolt-on LNB's, that suggest some fraction of an inch. I seriously doubt that's the same measurement that should be used with an integrated LNB that's made in a country that uses the metric system.

So in my experience, if you carefully measure everything and you think it's all correct according to the calculated values, if you then loosen the bolts on the scaler ring and slide the LNB in and out and maybe twist it a little you can gain five or ten more points of signal quality. The setting on the side of the LNB is nowhere near what it should be according to your calculations, but that's where it winds up getting the best signal. In almost every case but one or two, I have found that sliding the LNB in a little closer to the dish improves the signal. Of course the whole time you are doing that you're fighting to keep it straight because of the aforementioned slop between the outer diameter of the LNB and the inner diameter of the scaler ring. Sometimes it seems like trying to keep a pencil centered in a doughnut hole.

And of course while doing that you are also trying to check for the best skew angle. I honestly don't know how anyone gets this right. I have never put up a dish where I have been truly happy about the final position of the LNB, even in the couple of cases where I spent several hours trying to get it right.

If C-band enthusiasts were a bigger market I'm sure someone would come out with some kind of aiming aid that would make this process easier, especially with the newer integrated LNB's. Right now it seems more like intuition and trial-and-error than science. Then again, if they did it would probably be too expensive for many of us, and it would be complicated by the different types of LNB mounts (3 arms, 4 arms, buttonhook, etc). But to me, this is the most frustrating part of aiming a dish. You'd think it would be dead simple, and it might be if everything was manufactured to precision tolerances, but unfortunately that's rarely the case.

What I suspect is that a lot of guys do everything "by the book" and don't take into account that the measured distance to the center of the dish might be a significant distance closer or further than the reflective center of the dish, especially if there's a bump or metal plate there. Or that on LNB's you're not told where on the feedhorn you should be measuring to. Or that string is stretchy, or that the outer rim of the dish might be a little warped and throw off all those careful measurements. As I say, I've picked up four or five points just by loosening the bolts on the scaler ring and moving the LNB around by hand, to a place where the calculations say is all wrong, but nevertheless my receiver is showing improved signal strength and/or quality. I don't know if you guys have any secrets for doing this correctly but if you do, and they don't cost an arm and a leg, I would love to hear them.

One other thing, I have seen it suggested a couple of times to use a cheap ruler with a laser pointer to aim the LNB at the dish center. For the life of me I cannot visualize how this would work. If someone could post a picture or video of how this is done, it would be very helpful, because at the moment I don't understand that at all, unless maybe you guys are using some kind of ruler I've never seen before.
21 Replies · 6427 views
S
sgs
They used to make a pointer device that basically had a plastic "cup" on one end and a metal rod that extended out the other end. The plastic "cup" end would go over your feed (LNBF), and was tapered to support multiple sizes of feed. The rod extended and pointed accurately enough at the center of the dish when aligned. I have one, but can't find any pictures online, and I'm too tired right now to take a pic and post it. It works really well and doesn't require batteries or laser pointers that get loose!

Just a follow up - I've posted pics of this feedhorn alignment tool in the thread called "Need SatelliteGuys Assistance for C-band Feedhorn Alignment Tool Project" : http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/thr...-band-feedhorn-alignment-tool-project.328427/

sgs

Admin Note: Direct link to post: http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/posts/4008645/
Titanium
Having installed and serviced thousands of dishes, I never gave much thought to the need to have a close mechanical tolerance between the feedhorn and scalar opening before adjusting and tightening the set screws. We would mix and match different manufacturers and models components and simply optimize the position and alignment as part of the tuning process. Yes, I have cut feedhorns and bored scalars! :) Never trusted that the feedhorn would natively set at the correct angle even if doing a new install using parts from the same manufacturer. I agree that a 3 point set screw configuration is superior to a single set screw.

Would I offer a refund on a modified feedhorn? Not likely. Would I replace under warranty a modified LNBF feedhorn which electronically failed? Yes, the two are unlikely related unless the cut-off filings got ito the electronics cavity!

Aiming and peaking C-band is a science. Once you exhaust the science, freelance to optimize for your system anomalies... :D

BTW... I understood the amalgamated rubber tape was to secure the dielectric slab into position (if used). :confused:
ancient
Interesting to see some of the ways you guys deal with these problems.

Just a follow up - I've posted pics of this feedhorn alignment tool in the thread called "Need SatelliteGuys Assistance for C-band Feedhorn Alignment Tool Project" : http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/thr...-band-feedhorn-alignment-tool-project.328427/

sgs

Admin Note: Direct link to post: http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/posts/4008645/

Wish you could still buy those. I suppose today you could maybe make the plastic part of one of those tools with a 3D printer, provided you have access to one, and know how to fabricate parts that can be printed using it. If you don't have a 3D printer, but have some chunks of old 4x4 lying around, it might still be possible to make one if you could find a Forstner bit of the exact same size as the outer diameter of your LNB (to slip over the outside of the LNB like that one does), or a hole saw that would drill out a core exactly the size of the inner diameter of the LNB (to slip it inside the LNB throat, though I'd be nervous about damaging the LNB if doing that). But if the end is fluted then you have to take that into account too, and I imagine it might be pretty difficult to find a Forstner bit or hole saw of exactly the right side for a given LNB. And while it's not that hard to find a piece of solid or threaded rod to stick out of the end, I just wonder how you'd get it to point precisely at the center of the dish. Of course, if you really wanted to make something using wood or a block of hard plastic that would slip inside the LNB throat, then a lathe would probably be the best tool to use, but not many of us have one of those in our sheds or garages.

Ancient,
"The first problem is that many LNB's and scaler rings are manufactured to very sloppy tolerances. It should not be possible to put an LNB into its matching scaler ring and aim it 15 or 20 degrees off center but unfortunately that is all too possible with some modern LNB's. So even if you get the scaler ring precisely centered somehow, you still have no idea if the LNB is centered since it can flop around inside the ring."

That's precisely why I save the old scalars off every dish I pick up. The tolerances are much better and the only problem I encounter is the ridge around the outside of the throat on the LNBF. I recently cleaned up a Chaparral Gold scalar to use with a WS International LNBF. In order to get it inside the Gold scalar, I had to remove the ridge around the throat of the LNBF. (I'm not sure why that's there considering the sloppiness of the fit to the provided scalar. Maybe for strength perhaps).

I always was under the impression that the scaler rings and LNB's were kind of a matched set. Is that not the case? I have a few old feedhorns with scalers from the analog days lying around.

I use three stainless steel hose clamps screwed together, with the adjustment nuts 60 degrees apart around the outside of the feed in order to keep the feed square in the scalar when setting the focal distance. The clamps allow you to butt the feed up against the tightening nuts them so you can tighten the screws down in order to keep it accurately aligned on the fd marks.

Now that is a brilliant low-tech solution. I have a whole plastic bin full of various sizes of hose clamps so I'm definitely going to try putting something like that together when I start working on my dishes again.

Maybe Titanium could shed some light on why the scalar has so much slop around the feed assembly. I'd like to know if they will warranty a LNBF that has the ridge removed.

If you've never used a WS International feed, you probably wouldn't like them. It only has 1 tightening screw in the scalar and the feed sets off center almost a half inch. it butts up against a couple blocks on the opposite side. A really poor design as far as I'm concerned.

We'll have to agree to disagree on that point, because personally I've never had anywhere near as much trouble getting the ones with the single screw set in place, and I've always felt the three screws were the worse design. To me, the fact that the LNB body was sitting up against a couple of small vertical ribs, or what you call blocks, on the inside of the scaler ring collar made it much easier to keep the LNB relatively straight, as opposed to if you are trying to tighten three set screws with a relatively small contact area inside a loosely-fitting collar. I'm not saying those ribs were sufficient to keep the LNB body perfectly straight in the scaler, but at least it felt like I was at a better starting point. But then again, it never occurred to me to try the hose clamp trick, so maybe that makes all the difference. To each his own, I guess, but personally I rather dislike the three screw design.
RimaNTSS
What I miss here are pictures, they could help to digest all the text :bounce
wvman
Interesting to see some of the ways you guys deal with these problems.



Wish you could still buy those. I suppose today you could maybe make the plastic part of one of those tools with a 3D printer, provided you have access to one, and know how to fabricate parts that can be printed using it. If you don't have a 3D printer, but have some chunks of old 4x4 lying around, it might still be possible to make one if you could find a Forstner bit of the exact same size as the outer diameter of your LNB (to slip over the outside of the LNB like that one does), or a hole saw that would drill out a core exactly the size of the inner diameter of the LNB (to slip it inside the LNB throat, though I'd be nervous about damaging the LNB if doing that). But if the end is fluted then you have to take that into account too, and I imagine it might be pretty difficult to find a Forstner bit or hole saw of exactly the right side for a given LNB. And while it's not that hard to find a piece of solid or threaded rod to stick out of the end, I just wonder how you'd get it to point precisely at the center of the dish. Of course, if you really wanted to make something using wood or a block of hard plastic that would slip inside the LNB throat, then a lathe would probably be the best tool to use, but not many of us have one of those in our sheds or garages.



I always was under the impression that the scaler rings and LNB's were kind of a matched set. Is that not the case? I have a few old feed horns with scalers from the analog days lying around.



Now that is a brilliant low-tech solution. I have a whole plastic bin full of various sizes of hose clamps so I'm definitely going to try putting something like that together when I start working on my dishes again.



We'll have to agree to disagree on that point, because personally I've never had anywhere near as much trouble getting the ones with the single screw set in place, and I've always felt the three screws were the worse design. To me, the fact that the LNB body was sitting up against a couple of small vertical ribs, or what you call blocks, on the inside of the scaler ring collar made it much easier to keep the LNB relatively straight, as opposed to if you are trying to tighten three set screws with a relatively small contact area inside a loosely-fitting collar. I'm not saying those ribs were sufficient to keep the LNB body perfectly straight in the scaler, but at least it felt like I was at a better starting point. But then again, it never occurred to me to try the hose clamp trick, so maybe that makes all the difference. To each his own, I guess, but personally I rather dislike the three screw design.

I think the three screw design would be a lot better if the tolerances between the feed and scalar were narrowed down considerably. The hose clamps work really well because you have three points on which the feed rest against the scalar, and you can pre-set it to the correct fd before you mount the assembly on the feed legs. Then is a simple matter of loosening one of the screws in order to rotate the feed to the proper polarity. However, if you need to slide the feed closer to the dish, the clamps would be in the way.

After 30 years in the business, I've seen so many different ways to accomplish the same thing, I lost count. I guess whatever works for the person doing it is all that matters. :) I've been fooled a couple times when an idea someone had looked totally ridiculous and actually turned out to be a real time saver. I don't know if you remember the days when the dish was actually a gadget that looked like a backstop at a baseball game when you actually moved the feed rather than the dish.

That was always a trip considering all the adjustments were on the feed pole that stuck in the ground in front of the dish. Ah, the good ole days. :) Anyway, everyone has their preferences and that doesn't make one work any better than the other. I better shut up, I'm telling everyone how old I am. :) Cheers, and thanks for the reply.
S
sgs
BTW... I understood the amalgamated rubber tape was to secure the dielectric slab into position (if used). :confused:

That's another use, although it seems like a lot of tape for holding the dielectric.

A minor point I've found with all six Titanium LNBFs I have is that the dielectric slabs are 1-2mm too short, and require something to keep them from falling out. I'm not complaining, since it's easily solved with some tack, electrical tape, the included rubber tape, etc., to hold it in place. Some other LNBFs I've got have slabs that fit / wedge in with better tolerances, and don't require anything to prevent them from moving/falling out.

sgs
S
sgs
I always was under the impression that the scaler rings and LNB's were kind of a matched set. Is that not the case? I have a few old feedhorns with scalers from the analog days lying around.

I used to think so too, but now I think the scalar rings are best kept matched to the dish and feed support arms, and the LNB used can be variable.

Also, I've found the scalar ring's spacing (between each ring) is generally the same on different scalars; however, older scalars tended to be thicker/heavier and not so cheaply made. The rings must have a certain spacing for C-band wavelengths. However they are generally tuned for the C-band frequency range, not a specific frequency, which is why there can be some variance on ring spacing with acceptable results.

sgs
Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
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long_time_Dish
Beautiful Noise - Neil Diamond
sdfntx
White Noise - Jessie Baylin
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dishstaller
White Rabbit - Jefferson Airplane
long_time_Dish
White Sun - The Doobie Brothers
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White Room-Cream
cpdretired
Supporting Founder
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Several Dish offers showed up today in my account. Once you choose one the rest are removed. Offers were Showtime, Starz, AMC and others.
32 Replies · 1557 views
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B
Just checked my account and it shows mgm+ at 8.00 per month, but that has red line drawn thru it and shows 0.00 per month. But it doesn't say how long this lasts,...... 1 month, 3 months, forever. I called customer service to get an answer, and they said nothing like that exists. Should I add the offer or not? Already paying them too much, but want to take advantage of something free.
ewindowman
Lots of offers on the hopper account app . On the website there are only a few.
Almighty1
Lots of offers on the hopper account app . On the website there are only a few.
Never had time to use the Hopper 3 account app yet. I also have a Hopper Plus so it's not the same as the Hopper 3 standalone. Will try it when I have more time, need to beat the taxes extension filing deadline first as I am still working on entering the data into the tax software.
Almighty1
This is what I see when it comes to offers on My Account on the Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and dish.com:

AMC+ 50% off for 3 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)
AMC+ Free for 3 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and dish.com)
AMC+ 1 month free (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

Cine y Entretenimie 50% off for 3 months

DOGTV 1 month free (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

DISH Movie Pack 50% off for 6 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and dish.com)

DOGTV 50% off for 6 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)
DOGTV 1 month free (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

Gallery First Month Free (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

Heartland Pack 50% off for 6 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and dish.com)

Mexico y Mas 50% off for 3 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

MGM+ $0.00/Month not saying how long (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

Multi-Sport Pack 50% off for 6 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

Netflix Standard with Ads, $7.99/month credit toward Netflix Standard with Ads ($.99) month with 24 month DISH commitment
(Only on My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

Outdoor Pack 50% off for 6 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

Paramount+ with SHOWTIME 50% off for three months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and dish.com)
Paramount+ with SHOWTIME 2 months free (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

Playboy TV 50% off for 6 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

Republica Dominicana 50% off for 3 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

STARZ 50% off for 3 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)
STARZ $1.99/month for 2 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus and dish.com)

Sudamerica y Mas 50% off for 3 months (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)

UP Faith & Family 1 month free (My Account Hopper 3 with Hopper Plus)
S
Just checked my account and it shows mgm+ at 8.00 per month, but that has red line drawn thru it and shows 0.00 per month. But it doesn't say how long this lasts,...... 1 month, 3 months, forever. I called customer service to get an answer, and they said nothing like that exists. Should I add the offer or not? Already paying them too much, but want to take advantage of something free.
look again mine says free for 1 month
Almighty1
look again mine says free for 1 month
Not for me, mines has no mention of how long aka the offer period and the Terms and conditions the $0.00 is good for. All I see is one can lose $5.00 if you decide to remove it before day 31 after you add it to the account.

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"MysteryMan"
Pub Member / Supporter Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in Computers and Gadgets
I created this thread on the original Edgecutter Cutting Edge Forums site. It's simply a place for those to review the latest software available for those using Windows 10 and Windows 11. To date it has received 112,559 views. I have been asked by staff to continue this thread here.
521 Replies · 47195 views
EarDemon
If it wasn't for what I want, I wouldn't need any of this.

Do I need a collection of handheld radios, scanners and speed enforcement countermeasures? Nope, but I want them. Very little, if any of the software used to interface with these devices is available on Linux.
WhiteBeard
If it wasn't for what I want, I wouldn't need any of this.

Do I need a collection of handheld radios, scanners and speed enforcement countermeasures? Nope, but I want them. Very little, if any of the software used to interface with these devices is available on Linux.
To each there own but I've found that Windows can't do much more than Linux can. Can't have everything. ☹️
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EarDemon
To each there own but I've found that Windows can't do much more than Linux can. Can't have everything. ☹️
For niche use cases, yes I agree. Kali for ethical hacking and security testing, and running a Cacti server for network monitoring are the two things I have experience in. Plus thousands and thousands of other things, but for every day use I just can't see it. The owner of the GMRS repeater that I pay to access is changing the Tx DPL tones tomorrow, while Chirp is available on Linux, the software to program my MXT500 is not.

I run Fedora and Ubuntu in VMWare, honestly I don't care much for the UI of either of them and I don't feel like spending days/weeks to customize the UI to make it look Windows-like when I could just use Windows. The cartoonish dock at the bottom of the screen reminds me of Apple products.
EarDemon
I have no OEM bloat, on CTO devices where I can access the drive, I order it with the smallest allowed drive and crack the device open throw the factory drive in the garbage and put in my own WD Black and install Windows from bootable media. For Windows bloat, I install Windows using the English - World option which limits preinstalled MS bloat.

Windows and Office features I wish to block, like CoPilot and Cortana, macro enabled Office files and others are blocked with GPOs.

Between keeping all software up to date, doing firmware updates, putting IoT devices on a separate VLAN, running Symantec Endpoint (say what you want about it, it's been good to me) and practicing safe hex, I'm vigilant but not paranoid about security.

With NVMe SSDs, my cold boot up time on all devices is under 30 secs as well. Fast boot disabled, BitLocker drive encryption enabled.

I have nothing against Linux, been paying with it on and off since 2004ish, it's just not the right solution for me.
HipKat
it's just not the right solution for me.
As I said above, and, FWIW, I run Win11 Pro and Arch on separate 250 GB NVME drives, using F8 to select which I boot to, with a 1TB SSD for storage, accessible to both OSs and a third formatted Nvme I want to use to learn Kali. It was much faster to setup Arch than it was to strip down Windows. Windows still takes much longer to boot.

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harshness
I don't care much for the UI of either of them and I don't feel like spending days/weeks to customize the UI to make it look Windows-like when I could just use Windows.
What is so fantabulous about the Windows UI? By many accounts, it has been going downhill since Windows 7.

There are Linux desktops that offer Windows or Mac UIs, yet you don't hear much chatter about them outside of questions about when the creators might get sued.
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EarDemon
What is so fantabulous about the Windows UI?
Because it's what I prefer. I know I've said this a few times, I use Open Shell to give me the cascading start menu a la WIN 95 and NT4.0. The only reason I went from Windows Vista to 7 back in the day was because of Classic Shell. I cannot stand anything other than the OG start menu from 30+ years ago. I'm using ExplorerPatcher to give me Windows 10 UI elements of the taskbar and right click context menus.

If you could take a look at how I set up Windows 95, you'd find many similarities to how I use 11.
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EarDemon
I could probably use that as a starting point, but I don't like the full size icons. If you have to click on each folder that's also a no-go for me, it has to be cascading.

I used to have Peppermint Linux in a VM, that was about as close as I could get to recreating a Windows NT4.0 style of menu structure, but I could never get it to scale properly in VMWare on a 4K display and eventually gave up.

Whatever the boot up time it's fine with me. The longest part of my bootup is the HP SureStart BIOS integrity check. Once that is done, it's only a few more seconds. I haven't done this reg tweak yet since the reformat, but I switched the bootup animation to the Windows 10 style spinning circle of dots, and it's two and a half rotations. I can live with that.
harshness
Because it's what I prefer.
I hope you don't believe that makes it wonderful (especially when you're using workarounds for Microsoft's malfeasance).

I use LibreOffice as opposed to Microsoft office (even in Windows) because it's UI is like the Office of old, so I'm putting my money where my mouth is (in a manner of speaking). The ribbon was one of the worst ideas to come out Redmond.
Former member 209992
Last reply · posted in SatelliteGuys Support Center
For some reason, the satelliteguys.us site is loading a lot slower than usual on both Chrome on my Asus laptop and Safari on my iPhone.
I'm also seeing longer appearances of the blue bar at the top and the "3 blue bars" loading symbol.
Is anyone else also having the same problem? Thanks in advance.
527 Replies · 17924 views
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Scott Greczkowski
Remember folks... just like DNS... its always Foxbat. :D
Foxbat
Remember folks... just like DNS... its always Foxbat. :D
WTF… …What the Foxbat!😱
S
zipping right along here
S
WTF… …What the Foxbat!😱
wow what a kick in the balls!!! the wife blames you when things don't work now scott's blaming you :biggrin
Foxbat
wow what a kick in the balls!!! the wife blames you when things don't work now scott's blaming you :biggrin
I know. Here's what Scott has in store for me if I get out of line:
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IMG_1989.webp
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jannah
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Help, I'm a little confjused on the activation process.
I purchased the Joey 4 from Solid Signal and shipping box has Call 866 726-4282 to Avtivate new Receiver. That number is Solid Signals number.
I googled and that search said call Dish to activate. I assume that is correct unless this requires a 2 step process.
Please let me know.
Thanks
6 Replies · 196 views
jannah
All good called Dish and new Joey 4 is activated and working.
Old Joey 2 deactivated and no need to return. 🙂
S
All good called Dish and new Joey 4 is activated and working.
Old Joey 2 deactivated and no need to return. 🙂
i bought mine straight from dish as it was only $ 100.00 bucks!!! had the protection plan they came out removed and deactivated the 4k joey and activated and installed the joey 4.
zcrayfish
Solid signal has provided the wrong number on their website to activate Dish boxes for years now.
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Nominal
I don't know if things are different with Dish but when I first rejoined DirecTV a few years ago Solid Signal was able to create my account and activate the equipment I got from them on a self-install without a truck roll.
S
Solid signal has provided the wrong number on their website to activate Dish boxes for years now.
1-800-333-3474. billing or tech support should be able to do it!!!
S
Help, I'm a little confjused on the activation process.
I purchased the Joey 4 from Solid Signal and shipping box has Call 866 726-4282 to Avtivate new Receiver. That number is Solid Signals number.
I googled and that search said call Dish to activate. I assume that is correct unless this requires a 2 step process.
Please let me know.
Thanks
just call dish and iggy the number from solid signal!!
Foxbat
Supporting Founder Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in Internet Television (IPTV) Discussion Forum
Apple has finally released their Apple TV 4K with built-in Siri and a microphone so it can respond to your queries even if you don't have the remote. It also increases in price, to $299. I had been planning on updating my current Apple TV 4K streamers, but that's $600 for the two of them, and that's a pass at this point.

At $299, it had better come with 256 GB of Storage, Gigabit (or better) Ethernet, the latest HDMI tech and standards, and one year of free Apple One. But it probably won't…
14 Replies · 179 views
Ronnie-
Meh. The 4Ks I have will do everything that these do that I need them to do.


Which that's most tech these days for anything released the last four to five years.


It's honestly a testament to how good the previous gen Apple TVs were and are.
navychop
It's honestly a testament to how good the previous gen Apple TVs were and are.

Don't tell them that. They'll adopt planned obsolescence.
Foxbat
The only thing I can see that is compelling is the AV1 decoding done in the A19's hardware instead of the current ATV4K's processor.
navychop
Outside of gaming, would Joe Sixpack notice any difference?
KAB
KAB
Outside of gaming, would Joe Sixpack notice any difference?
Not a bit. IMO, apple's are slow to boot up. Time is about the same with 1st gen and 3rd. Roku runs rings around them in that department. I only stick I with the Apple tv's is the Apple infrastructure, which has it's definite advantages. But $300 is not worth sticking with it. Later, Apple!
S
Don't tell them that. They'll adopt planned obsolescence.
they all do that anyways.. ever notice your cell phone slows down when you come up for an upgrade.. :what. apple's been making money off of software and not hardware for a while
jamieh1
Last reply · posted in DIRECTV Programming Forum
The new curated multiview is now live.
While on many of the sports channels and non sports channels there is a multi view option button. It will pull up a side bar with many different multi view options.
3 Replies · 161 views
K
It's now expanded to a Build Your Own Multiview, currently available to streaming customers with Geminis and Roku, and coming soon to Android TV, Fire TV, Vizio, LG, Apple TV and Tizen.
b4pjoe
It's now expanded to a Build Your Own Multiview, currently available to streaming customers with Geminis and Roku, and coming soon to Android TV, Fire TV, Vizio, LG, Apple TV and Tizen.
But not on the only device they ship out right now which is the Gemini Air.
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TheRatPatrol
It's now expanded to a Build Your Own Multiview, currently available to streaming customers with Geminis and Roku, and coming soon to Android TV, Fire TV, Vizio, LG, Apple TV and Tizen.
How soon will it be available on Apple TV? Thanks
Ramy
Supporting Founder
Last reply · posted in The Sports Section
Really excited for this season with Kentucky having a new coach and some really exciting recruits. Probably won't last long, but here's hoping this season is great.
141 Replies · 1356 views
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Y
24 team playoff seems to be real close.

Are we really that far from a 64-team tournament?

The benefit of the 24 team playoff:
  • All the cartel teams that cartels want in playoff are in playoff
    • Independent of record too! Bonus.
  • MONEY!!!!! for the cartels.
  • I'm out of ideas.
Cons
  • Regular season really doesn't matter now other than the rivalry games
    • Top cartel teams can lose three games and still make the playoff
  • Going to start resting players?
    • The playoff is going to be *checks notes* several games!
    • Resting players could make games dumb.
    • Maybe even restrict NIL players from games played.
  • How much are streaming sub costs going up a month to pay for this?!
AZ.
AZ.
24 team playoff seems to be real close.

Are we really that far from a 64-team tournament?

The benefit of the 24 team playoff:
  • All the cartel teams that cartels want in playoff are in playoff
    • Independent of record too! Bonus.
  • MONEY!!!!! for the cartels.
  • I'm out of ideas.
Cons
  • Regular season really doesn't matter now other than the rivalry games
    • Top cartel teams can lose three games and still make the playoff
  • Going to start resting players?
    • The playoff is going to be *checks notes* several games!
    • Resting players could make games dumb.
    • Maybe even restrict NIL players from games played.
  • How much are streaming sub costs going up a month to pay for this?!
One of the pro's I see is in a year with so many undefeated teams they have a good chance of an opening. Few years back you had lower divisions that didnt get a shot. I love collage football and I have no problem with that addition.

We are in what week 5 now? Been two real good ranked games to watch.....Other than that top 25 teams are playing nothing.
Jimbo
One of the pro's I see is in a year with so many undefeated teams they have a good chance of an opening. Few years back you had lower divisions that didnt get a shot. I love collage football and I have no problem with that addition.

We are in what week 5 now? Been two real good ranked games to watch.....Other than that top 25 teams are playing nothing.
There are 68 Power 4 teams, so eventually they will get there I wouldn't imagine ...
AZ.
AZ.
There are 68 Power 4 teams, so eventually they will get there I wouldn't imagine ...
Far from it but you know that....You dont like the larger playoff.....Its ok.....
Jimbo
Far from it but you know that....You dont like the larger playoff.....Its ok.....
Oh, I Hate the idea ...

It would be different if it was a game that you could play 2 or games each week, but when you only play 1 game a week, the larger playoff is Not a good thing ...

The season has how many games now, is it 14 ... then you want to play another 5 (with more to come) against Top 12 (eventually 24 teams) ... remember, the 5 games in the playoffs will be the hardest games all year and back to back.

For example, IF Ohio State should win it all this year ... they play 5 teams in the Top 25, plus they would play 5 more to win it all, depending on how the ranking shake out and if Bye weeks are given.

Thats 10 Ranked teams ... in one year ...
I don't see that happening very often ...
Edit, Bama plays 4, Georgia plays 3, But Ole Miss plays 5 (didn't expect to see that)

That said, I don't see the Buckeyes winning it all this year.
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AZ.
AZ.
Oh, I Hate the idea ...

It would be different if it was a game that you could play 2 or games each week, but when you only play 1 game a week, the larger playoff is Not a good thing ...

The season has how many games now, is it 14 ... then you want to play another 5 (with more to come) against Top 12 (eventually 24 teams) ... remember, the 5 games in the playoffs will be the hardest games all year and back to back.

For example, IF Ohio State should win it all this year ... they play 5 teams in the Top 25, plus they would play 5 more to win it all, depending on how the ranking shake out and if Bye weeks are given.

Thats 10 Ranked teams ... in one year ...
I don't see that happening very often ...

That said, I don't see the Buckeyes winning it all this year.
Yes anyone here knows you 100%....Astros failed no posting...Ohio state loses we hear it.....Its ok....Its called an opinion....I have one so do you.....Problem is?
Jimbo
Yes anyone here knows you 100%....Astros failed no posting...Ohio state loses we hear it.....Its ok....Its called an opinion....I have one so do you.....Problem is?
Seeing theres very little activity in the MLB threads, it wouldn't matter if I posted that the Astros didn't make the Playoffs ...

Theres more NFL info in the Pub section than in the Sports/NFL thread.
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Jimbo
IF they go to 24 teams, and it looks like they will soon ....
Do we Really want Teams with 3 and 4 losses in the Playoffs ?
Is a 3-4 Loss team one thats able to win 4-5 more games against Top teams ?