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comfortably_numb
Pub Member / Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Well, crodrules has just about convinced me to come back to Dish for the Locals Only Package.

When I last had Dish, I used a Wally connected to one output of the DPP dish on the roof of my 4-plex. My neighbor is using the other line which is connected to a Hybrid Solo Hub.

Would I be able to use a Hopper Duo with this dish? If so do I need a hub?
36 Replies · 4778 views
comfortably_numb
It's definitely a different LNB than the one that was on there before
HipKat
It's definitely a different LNB than the one that was on there before
Yep, it's hybrid. The neighbor's Duo is killing the signal output on port 2
pattykay
Yep, it's hybrid. The neighbor's Duo is killing the signal output on port 2
Is it just because it is hooked up through a Hybrid Hub? I thought for sure there was a way to connect two HWS to a Hybrid LNB by using Hybrid Hubs. I don't know why Hopper Duo would be any different, since the Duo has even fewer tuners. I thought it was only the Hopper 3 that kills the second output, since all 16 tuners would be in use at that point.
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HipKat
Is it just because it is hooked up through a Hybrid Hub? I thought for sure there was a way to connect two HWS to a Hybrid LNB by using Hybrid Hubs. I don't know why Hopper Duo would be any different, since the Duo has even fewer tuners. I thought it was only the Hopper 3 that kills the second output, since all 16 tuners would be in use at that point.
TheKrell
Because whatever it is in a Hopper 3 that kills the Port 2 output is also in the Hopper Duo. Duo Hub only works for 2 Hopper 1's and 2's
TheKrell
TheKrell
Because whatever it is in a Hopper 3 that kills the Port 2 output is also in the Hopper Duo. Duo Hub only works for 2 Hopper 1's and 2's
Well, your knowledge is superior to my memory. :( I found this thread which states the same thing: Hybrid LNBF backward compatibility, even though it makes no sense when a pair of every other receiver (not H3 or Duo) will work. One wonders what is in the Duo that does this counterintuitive bad thing. Same chipset as the H3? Could 16 tuners be latent in the Duo?

Many years ago, I taught a class with a bunch of relatively cheap (enormous in those days) calculators that only had 4 functions. But there was a suspicious-looking plastic hood over much of the front. It turned out that you could unsnap that hood and find a fully-functional scientific calculator, keys and all, underneath. :D
HipKat
Well, your knowledge is superior to my memory. :( I found this thread which states the same thing: Hybrid LNBF backward compatibility, even though it makes no sense when a pair of every other receiver (not H3 or Duo) will work. One wonders what is in the Duo that does this counterintuitive bad thing. Same chipset as the H3? Could 16 tuners be latent in the Duo?

Many years ago, I taught a class with a bunch of relatively cheap (enormous in those days) calculators that only had 4 functions. But there was a suspicious-looking plastic hood over much of the front. It turned out that you could unsnap that hood and find a fully-functional scientific calculator, keys and all, underneath. :D
I found this out when another tech thought he had a bad meter because it showed no signal on a Dish he was pointing and the install was a Hopper Duo - which was plugged in and connected to the Coax. Disconnecting the coax and the signal popped up on the meter
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pattykay
TheKrell
Because whatever it is in a Hopper 3 that kills the Port 2 output is also in the Hopper Duo. Duo Hub only works for 2 Hopper 1's and 2's
Okay, here is another question I wanted to run by you. I have a technician coming on Tuesday morning, to install a replacement Hopper Duo and a Joey 3. I have never had any Joeys before, so I never had a Hybrid Hub in my system, either. So, when connecting a Hybrid Solo Hub to port 1 on a DPP44 switch, am I correct in assuming that the Hub goes between the output from the power inserter and the Hopper Duo, rather than between the power inserter and the switch? I want to know, before my appointment, what to expect the technician to do when hooking this up.
pattykay
I found this out when another tech thought he had a bad meter because it showed no signal on a Dish he was pointing and the install was a Hopper Duo - which was plugged in and connected to the Coax. Disconnecting the coax and the signal popped up on the meter
I have to wonder, does this only happen when the Hopper Duo is connected to port 1? In other words, could something else (that does not kill the signal to port 2) be connected to port 1, and then have the Hopper Duo work just fine when connected to port 2? Or, does connecting the Hopper Duo to either port effectively kill both ports?
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TheKrell
So, when connecting a Hybrid Solo Hub to port 1 on a DPP44 switch, am I correct in assuming that the Hub goes between the output from the power inserter and the Hopper Duo, rather than between the power inserter and the switch?
Sorry; I never had a DPP44 so I do not know. But FWIW, I would guess the former.
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HipKat
Okay, here is another question I wanted to run by you. I have a technician coming on Tuesday morning, to install a replacement Hopper Duo and a Joey 3. I have never had any Joeys before, so I never had a Hybrid Hub in my system, either. So, when connecting a Hybrid Solo Hub to port 1 on a DPP44 switch, am I correct in assuming that the Hub goes between the output from the power inserter and the Hopper Duo, rather than between the power inserter and the switch? I want to know, before my appointment, what to expect the technician to do when hooking this up.
You have a 44 switch?? You can go to the Hub first or the power inserter first. Either way shouldn't be an issue
pattykay
You have a 44 switch?? You can go to the Hub first or the power inserter first. Either way shouldn't be an issue
Thanks. That is what I thought, but I wanted to be sure. This entire system is going in my bedroom, which is also where my power inserter is. So, either way would work, but this way I do not have to pull out my TV stand to get to the cable that runs from the power inserter to the switch. It also means that I do not have to have the technician go anywhere else in my house to install anything. This is a relatively small bedroom, so I am just trying to be cautious, what with the COVID protocols, and social distancing, and all that. I am still going to be in the room watching what the installer does, of course. So, the more floor space I have open, the better, and every inch counts.
pattykay
Thanks. That is what I thought, but I wanted to be sure. This entire system is going in my bedroom, which is also where my power inserter is. So, either way would work, but this way I do not have to pull out my TV stand to get to the cable that runs from the power inserter to the switch. It also means that I do not have to have the technician go anywhere else in my house to install anything. This is a relatively small bedroom, so I am just trying to be cautious, what with the COVID protocols, and social distancing, and all that. I am still going to be in the room watching what the installer does, of course. So, the more floor space I have open, the better, and every inch counts.
Ah, the best laid plans...

The install was... interesting.

First, it turned out that the installer needed to get to the DPP44 switch after all, which is located in the basement. So much for not having the installer have to go through the rest of my house. Then, he did not put in a Hybrid Hub. Instead, he hooked a Solo Node to two of the DPP44 outputs (avoiding connecting the Node to the port 1 power inserter output. So, that uses a total of three outputs on the switch) and ran a brand new cable from the Host port of the Node to my bedroom. There, he hooked up a Hybrid Tap to the new cable, and used that to connect both the Hopper Duo and Joey 3. Having said all that, it works just fine, so I can't really complain. I have never had any Joeys in my system before, so I am not sure if this is the "correct" way to hook this up. But, like I said, it actually works.
Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
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Time Stand Still - Rush
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Bobby
I Can't Help It (If I'm Still In Love With You) - B.J. Thomas
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long_time_DNC
Help Is On Its Way - Little River Band
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Little Band of Gold - Sonny James
RaiderPower
Band Of Gold - Freda Payne
teachsac
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU!
Last reply · posted in TV Shows
House of the Dragon, the prequel to Game of Thrones, premieres on HBO Max on 8/21. I will be warching



View: https://youtu.be/fNwwt25mheo


S~
39 Replies · 5634 views
KAB
KAB
That was as bad as the rest of the show. Jean Smart was mostly invisible.
Jim S.
I prefer the trailer for the movie adaptation of Mario Kart. At least that had Pedro Pascal in it.
harshness
"A new line of unsullied kings" would seem impossible given the GoT definition of "unsullied". :biggrin
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T
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Hello everyone, new guy here. I'm trying to solve problem I'm having with Dish bonus view channels. When I'm watching the bonus view channels then I switch back to regular dish channels, after few minutes the screen flips to black and after 30 seconds flips back to regular channels and continues to flip back and forth until I turn off TV. After I wait 30 minutes and turn back on , I can use regular channels again. So, its after I switch from bonus view channels to regular dish channels the problem starts. Been trying to fix this for a month, but no luck
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
5 Replies · 74 views
HipKat
Hello everyone, new guy here. I'm trying to solve problem I'm having with Dish bonus view channels. When I'm watching the bonus view channels then I switch back to regular dish channels, after few minutes the screen flips to black and after 30 seconds flips back to regular channels and continues to flip back and forth until I turn off TV. After I wait 30 minutes and turn back on , I can use regular channels again. So, its after I switch from bonus view channels to regular dish channels the problem starts. Been trying to fix this for a month, but no luck
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
First off, great TV. I'm torn between the 77C5 or the 77G5.
It sounds like the handshake between the Receiver and the TV is having a problem. Are you using the free cable that came with the Joey or a higher speed HDMI cable?? That's the f irst place I'd look
R
Hello everyone, new guy here. I'm trying to solve problem I'm having with Dish bonus view channels. When I'm watching the bonus view channels then I switch back to regular dish channels, after few minutes the screen flips to black and after 30 seconds flips back to regular channels and continues to flip back and forth until I turn off TV. After I wait 30 minutes and turn back on , I can use regular channels again. So, its after I switch from bonus view channels to regular dish channels the problem starts. Been trying to fix this for a month, but no luck
Here what I've done.
i contacted Dish support and they sent me a new Joey3, but no help. Switched to a different HDMI input on TV, no help. Used different HDMI cable , no help. Used different electrical wall plug, no help.
Finally got a Dish tech to check it. He ran all systems check and was OK. Finally he brought in a small TV and plugged in the HDMI out from the Joey to the small TV. He could not get the problem to occur on his small TV, so the new Joey was working OK. So, then the problem must be myTV. He made some phone calls and came back with the answer that there must be a problem with the analog to digital switch in my TV. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this, or is it time to be looking for a new TV? My tv LG OLED65C8PUA. TV has been trouble free til now. Thanks
First off, The analog to digital switch, also known as the digital television transition, is the process of converting older analog television broadcasting technology to digital broadcasting. It's used through coaxial cable for the an antenna during the mandatory switch from Analog to Digital on June 12, 2009. You either had to get a converter for your analog (Tube TV) or use a converter box that has the analog or digital tuner or an HDTV which your is and has the tuner built in. Your TV is HD and using an HDMI Cable and nothing is connected by coaxial cable so this wouldn't apply.

In my theory it probably means a new TV. I had a TV go out on my switching between the Smart Screen from the HDMI inputs before because they went faulty. Sometimes electrical surges can cause this. If you have an older home or rent an older home or apartment sometimes the electrical outlets are not grounded and these days HDTV's need a ground which can cause them to malfunction and go bad quicker. Never plug it directly in an outlet. It will damage the TV.

Hope I could be of some assistance.

RJ T.
From Illinois
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T
First off, The analog to digital switch, also known as the digital television transition, is the process of converting older analog television broadcasting technology to digital broadcasting. It's used through coaxial cable for the an antenna during the mandatory switch from Analog to Digital on June 12, 2009. You either had to get a converter for your analog (Tube TV) or use a converter box that has the analog or digital tuner or an HDTV which your is and has the tuner built in. Your TV is HD and using an HDMI Cable and nothing is connected by coaxial cable so this wouldn't apply.

In my theory it probably means a new TV. I had a TV go out on my switching between the Smart Screen from the HDMI inputs before because they went faulty. Sometimes electrical surges can cause this. If you have an older home or rent an older home or apartment sometimes the electrical outlets are not grounded and these days HDTV's need a ground which can cause them to malfunction and go bad quicker. Never plug it directly in an outlet. It will damage the TV.

Hope I could be of some assistance.

RJ T.
From Illinois
Thank you for the information. I do keep the TV plugged into a surge protector, but we have had pretty strong thunderstorms/lightning in the last month so that have contributed to my problem.The house was built in 2009 so everything seems to be grounded correctly. We have had a power surge also. Seems like no one fixes anything any more, so just get a new one or live with the problem. Thanks
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T
First off, great TV. I'm torn between the 77C5 or the 77G5.
It sounds like the handshake between the Receiver and the TV is having a problem. Are you using the free cable that came with the Joey or a higher speed HDMI cable?? That's the f irst place I'd look
I think the HDMI cable is good, i used one of my own from my 4K atmos system, i'll switch it with another just to check. Also I have a bid in at Greentoe for 77" G5. Thanks
HipKat
I think the HDMI cable is good, i used one of my own from my 4K atmos system, i'll switch it with another just to check. Also I have a bid in at Greentoe for 77" G5. Thanks
I hope that works. I'm waiting til Black Friday sales
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natevw
Last reply · posted in FTA Receiver / Equipment Support
Hi all, I recently inherited a FTA system off Craiglist and have been trying to get it set up. What I got was a Glorystar-branded ~90cm offset dish with a ground mount (/flat roof) frame, and GEOSATpro DSR200c receiver. From that initial equipment, I've replaced the old LNBF with a (cheap!) new one and also splurged on an SG-2100 H-H motorized rotor which does respond from the receiver's USALS menu.

The previous owner had it set up for religious programming on Galaxy 19 and I've been trying to start by finding that same bird at least. After a couple sessions I'm not sure I have, but I've found *something* at least! A handful of motor ticks further than the dish wants to be for 97W after starting from motor 0 pointing as much south as I can guess at. (I don't have great references to aim for and it's really hard to sight where exactly the dish is pointing anyway….)

Anyway, so far there's only one transponder that I've ever been able to catch as I search. It's 12146 V and when the receiver scans it I get this list of video channels:
  • 1.1 Srv_1
  • 2.84 OU_Chan
  • 3.2 Srv_2
  • 4.5 Srv_5
  • 5.3 Srv_3
  • 6.4 Srv_4
  • 7.6 Srv_6
  • 8.7 Srv_7
There's iirc three audio channels it finds too but I didn't get a good snapshot of those. All the channels except for one seem to be dead (black screen and silent audio), except for the OU_Chan one which on both days I found it was just rolling one same ad over and over on a loop. I won't repeat the full roll since I don't want to spam the forums as my first post 😇 but it's a long-winded spiel about "you know us as an industry-leading satellite solutions provider with over a quarter million sites" and to call them For All Your Every Needs™ type thing.

While I get little blips from other frequencies, this is the only strong transponder I've been able to come across. My receiver shows it as S 75 and Q up to 85 when I adjust it. It actually seemed to get better as I **un**skewed my LBNF — iiuc G19 was supposed to be -20º for me but however I'm supposed to be reading/referencing the angles the puck is now basically at 0º relative to the dish/arm got the strongest on this transponder.

Anyway sorry this is so long winded already… my question is, do I even have the right satellite? None of the other transponders that are supposed to be active on G-19 seem to come in. And if not the right satellite does anyone happen to recognize which one I might have found instead? I think knowing that would help me then adjust for a truer south aim and then hopeful the USALS will work automatically once I can get it dialed in.
9 Replies · 258 views
cyberham
Correct LO setting to 10600 MHz. Set receiver to 12053 V 22000. Use USALS to motor over to 97W Galaxy 19. Then, loosen bolts and rotate entire assembly (motor & dish) very slightly east or west until you peak on that transponder.

You should be able to blind scan in 6 transponders (DVB-S) and dozens of channels.

When using a motor, just set skew of LNB for 0 degrees and don't change it. The motor automatically rotates the dish to the correct skew.
natevw
Correct LO setting to 10600 MHz. Set receiver to 12053 V 22000. Use USALS to motor over to 97W Galaxy 19. Then, loosen bolts and rotate entire assembly (motor & dish) very slightly east or west until you peak on that transponder.
Done and done and done! I ended up doing a bit more iteration (back and forth between the left-right and up-down adjustments) but I've now got it landing on G19 at its default position for 97W.

You should be able to blind scan in 6 transponders (DVB-S) and dozens of channels.
Yep, ended up with a page or two full on my receiver's search. Didn't double-check that my receiver has all six of the right transponders but I can mess with that later if it turns out I'm missing something interesting but still DVB-S / MPEG-2 compatible.
When using a motor, just set skew of LNB for 0 degrees and don't change it. The motor automatically rotates the dish to the correct skew.
Yep, can see definite signal degradation as soon as I skew the LNB either way from "straight" (seam on the LNB lined up with the clamps on the mounting bracket). Will make setup easier if I want to try swapping anything else in!

I don't know if there's any good (unencrypted, DVB-S) satellite farther away to really check the sweep against, but I was at least able to program in my original find at 101.0 W back in (now at the correct "12000 V 20000" setting) and can get both birds automatically.

Shouldn't be *that* exciting since it's just an ad, but still really fun to choose channels on the other one and have it jog over and lock on 🤓
cyberham
Motor over to 123W Galaxy 18 and try for 12078 V 3680 (Korean Broadcasting System). It is DVB-S. And 12008 H 12660 (Daystar mux) on the same satellite.

Beyond these, you'll need your new receiver that supports DVB-S2.
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B
Done and done and done! I ended up doing a bit more iteration (back and forth between the left-right and up-down adjustments) but I've now got it landing on G19 at its default position for 97W.


Yep, ended up with a page or two full on my receiver's search. Didn't double-check that my receiver has all six of the right transponders but I can mess with that later if it turns out I'm missing something interesting but still DVB-S / MPEG-2 compatible.

Yep, can see definite signal degradation as soon as I skew the LNB either way from "straight" (seam on the LNB lined up with the clamps on the mounting bracket). Will make setup easier if I want to try swapping anything else in!

I don't know if there's any good (unencrypted, DVB-S) satellite farther away to really check the sweep against, but I was at least able to program in my original find at 101.0 W back in (now at the correct "12000 V 20000" setting) and can get both birds automatically.

Shouldn't be *that* exciting since it's just an ad, but still really fun to choose channels on the other one and have it jog over and lock on 🤓
beside 123W, another one to try (if it's above the horizon at your location) is Hispasat @30W. It has at least 2 DVB-S transponders with SD/Mpeg2 channels
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natevw
Motor over to 123W Galaxy 18 and try for 12078 V 3680 (Korean Broadcasting System). It is DVB-S. And 12008 H 12660 (Daystar mux) on the same satellite.

No luck finding this one. I motor over and it seems like a pretty dead spot of sky. I did get a slight blip (Q up to 1% or 2%) if I lowered the dish slightly. So I wonder if my polar mount itself maybe needs a bit of fine tuning?

Even when loosening the bolts and manually nudging the dish up/down/left/right nothing seemed to really wake it [new receiver, see below!] up and never saw anything more than 4% or 5% which I don't know is even real or could have been just noise?

beside 123W, another one to try (if it's above the horizon at your location) is Hispasat @30W.
I'm in Washington state (northwest CONUS) so this one's not an option for me.

Beyond these, you'll need your new receiver that supports DVB-S2.
I now have a V8 Finder 2 :-)

I've been able to scan in more now on G-19, and as well as watching the ad on SES 1 and getting some PBS stations there and G-16 both. So three satellites kinda in the general vicinity of each other (97W/101W/99.1W) programmed and able to rotate between.

Is G-18 at 123W as strong as the others? According to Satbeams I should be at least somewhat in its footprint although it looks like it's maybe focused more on Alaska.

Now that I'm back at my computer waiting for the Finder to charge back up looks like the Eutelsat(s) 117W have a couple Ku transponders I could look for too.
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cyberham
On 117W, try for BVN. It has a C/N lock of just 1.0 dB so it's easy to receive. See transponder data on Lyngsat. 123W is receivable. Your motor is not perfectly on the arc yet.
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
· posted in TWiT Tech Podcast Network
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TWiT Tech Podcast Network
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natevw
Last reply · posted in FTA Receiver / Equipment Support
I'm having trouble finding a for sure answer on this. When I first started diving back into satellite stuff I noticed the GT Media V8 Finder2 which looks pretty cool and relatively low price point. But I can't find an answer, seems like some people (and Amazon's own AI guesser-bot) say it doesn't support motors.

The manual itself (the PDF that I found is named 20220718043903GTMEDIAV8FINDER2.pdf and it's on page 6 of 8) does show on the installation screen a "Motor Setup" menu item and says "If select DiSEqC1.2 or USALS, we can press ◀︎▶︎ to select IF Channel, and use number key to input Center Frequency."

Which…… the USALS part seems promising, but I don't know what IF and Center frequencies have to do with anything? Can it drive the motor off its battery for one, and does it have options for e.g. using the ◀︎▶︎ arrows to change the aim and save adjustments?
The closest I've found to real-world experience here is in Long shot with TBS6909X card where someone is talking about a different rotor and says:

> when I connect my V8 Finder 2, it immediately moves the dish if it's not in the correct position

which seems really promising! Moving the dish is what I'm after here, with something newer than the old MPEG-2 receiver I have now. Even for other receivers its really unclear if motor support is just pretty much a safe assumption that they don't even mention it anymore?

The V9 Prime actually looks pretty nice too and assuming it runs motors maybe that'd be better than the V8 Finder 2 for actual long term use since it has networking. But I'm having trouble finding listings for it (and actually most other receivers I see mentioned here) on Amazon or eBay or even Aliexpress. I'm wanting a DVB-S2 receiver for at least MPEG-4 with H.264/AVC and maybe should just get H.265/HEVC while I'm shopping. Main criteria:

* run my "Goto X"-era SG-2100 rotator
* be able to view most/all modern FTA satellites
* ideally a scheduled DVR feature and/or network would make it more useful
* I don't mind if it has… "alternative" firmwares or features but just for broader compatibility/interest

My main goal is I guess just exploration, seeing what's up there. Honestly not a big TV guy and definitely not into infomercials but if I can time shift the occasional Bob Ross or Mr. Rogers Neighborhood, or catch some world events as they're being uplinked, that sort of thing might be interesting. (Honestly main goal started out as weather satellites but this is kinda a warmup excercise for what will likely be a separate setup due to the frequencies.)

My dish is kinda far from my house and even farther from my "radio shack" so if I could just run a PoE ethernet line to something in a box below the dish, or a coax only to the crawlspace where I have 110V but either way would need it full remote including changing between satellites. To avoid having to buy and pull tons more coax up and down through the house. I'm into open source and real standards, so I'd much rather something that I can say use with VLC or go2rtc via a raw IP address and protocol rather than some convenient but proprietary iOS cloud app thingy.
3 Replies · 121 views
cyberham
I have the GT Media V9 prime receiver. It's a good modern receiver for its price. I think it's no longer available new since GT Media stopped making receivers.

The V9 supports USALS and Diseqc motor positioning. I have 125 feet of RG6 to my dish. I'd recommend 100 feet of cable maximum due to voltage drop issues as the cable gets longer. In my case, my motor works but at times when I move the motor I stay tuned to horizontal (H) transponders which sends a higher motor voltage than if tuned to a vertical (V) transponder.
natevw
Thanks, great tips and yeah when I'd read how the H/V bias worked I wondered if the higher voltage was ever useful for better power transfer :-)

It was perhaps slightly impulsive (though I guess not too late to cancel) but instead of the Finder unit I ended up going for kinda the opposite: a completely faceless USB tuner box (TBS5930) which should have RF support all the way up through DVB-S2X. If I'm understanding correctly the actual video/audio will then be whatever I can get software/GPU support for so my hope is that any unencrypted MPEG-2/AVC/HEVC feed can be viewed with VLC or whatnot. As well as access to what I assume is pure data like the Blockstream stuff just for example. (They had a lot of good resources for reception of their own signal in lots of various interesting ways and is kinda how I found the TBS options.)

And I think I will be able to control DiSEqC stuff through Linux including motor commands. So the idea is kinda what I mentioned, hoping this can just get chained in to an old thin client PC or if there's any Raspberry Pi that doesn't cost triple digits these days, somewhere physically convenient and then run it all over LAN from my laptop.

All this is somewhat theoretical of course based on what I'm piecing together but at a certain point I usually have to close all the browser tabs and just commit to try *something* that looks promising and go from there.
natevw
I'm having trouble finding a for sure answer on this.
Had a mixup with the TBS5930, got sent a cheaper Lite model than I paid for and am returning that. Ended up with the V8 Finder 2 after all.

And can confirm that it *does* have motor support! There's options for each satellite:

* None
* DiSEqC 1.2
* USALS

If you choose USALS (after setting device lat/lon) then it simply goes to where it thinks the satellite should be. If you arrow over to the DiSEqC option then you can press "OK" on it and pull up a menu with the ability to save position presets and also a motor nudge feature.

So between the two I can first choose USALS to get my initial setting, and then switch to DiSEqC to see if fine tuning helps.

That's all in the "Installation menu". When just watching channels it automatically switches between satellites too. Can even do a multi-satellite scan although it seemed it maybe didn't wait for the motor to finish before starting the scan.

when I move the motor I stay tuned to horizontal (H) transponders which sends a higher motor voltage

This is definitely noticeable on the Finder too, the motor goes a decent bit faster on H transponders.
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