If I could butt in. I believe Brian is referring to.
With your dish retracted towards the lowest satellite you will ever be able to receive.
Measure the distance for your mounting points between A & B.
For me the lowest sat. is 131W. Which is pretty low here.
And I do have a bit of dish movement further west.
So in Bri's thing. If you were aimed at 131W. You obviously would not want the actuator completely retracted. Lets say you start out with it extended 3-4 or so inches. And no worries. There are switches inside of the motor that limit how far it can physically retract and extend.
Then move your dish up towards the sky. Keeping an eye on where the actuator would be mounted.
If there are no obstructions or parts of the dish that would interfere with, or cause the actuator shaft to hit, bind, on the polar mount.
Measure the length between those 2 points. If it happens to be 18-20 inches. Then a 24" actuator would fit you well. Just remember whether 24, 36 inches in length. You can never retract or extend them all the way.
In my pic. The dish initially would only handle a 24" actuator. Hence the added angle iron and hardware. And the spring fixes a nasty habit known as "dish flop" when the geometry of the actuator mount and the dish going a bit over top center. To all of a sudden....flop over. Not too good for the actuator. But then again it's a big old heavy 12' fiberglass dish. The mount is all painted and pretty now.
Bri can handle the next part. Your ku dish mover contains everything that it takes for your receiver to tell it to move. The same is a bit different with linear actuators. The actuator gets voltage from a controller. The controller is attached between the dish and the receiver with the same coax that the LNBF is hooked to. "Daisy chained".
You would have to manually steer the dish with the mover control. Those movements would be tracked with a counter (encoder) in the actuator arm.
So you've seen the usals settings in your receiver. In this world you don't use it.
If 127W reads 307 incremental 'counts' on the controller display. You store that position in its memory. And assign that memory slot #1.
In the receiver you see stored position (once you turn use usals off). Enter 001 and save.
Find your next sat. and store it in the dish mover as a momory slot. Do it again. And again.
And so on and so on. 125W, pos. #2.......99W, pos #15.
I have something like 45 sat's stored.
There are other, ancient movers that you held a button until it counted up/down to the satellite position. But today. Your one and possibly only option would be a V-Box.
(nah bri. i aint gonna' jab you in the sacroilliac on that one......haha. touche')
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