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arlo
Last reply · posted in FTA Receiver / Equipment Support
Like the subject says. Wondering how it's usually done. I see tek has a 13/18 volt switch. I just refuse to buy anything from him.
Other searches come up a bit blank. It might be covered in the archives here but that's some deep searching.
In the interim. Although it might not be kosher. I was messing around and found my own solution w/o buying more stuff.

I use a 8X1 diseqc switch to select between C and Ku on my mio. For blind scans of unknown sats. when initially setting them up.
I edited the satellites.xml file to make a dummy that I could set to not move the dish.
Also a few years ago I found that I needed to nudge the dish a few clicks on 131W for different tp's.
These work:

<sat name="Test C-band Transponders" flags="1" position="-1775">

And for the dish 'nudge'....

<sat name="131.0W C-band AMC 11" flags="1" position="-1311">

<sat name="131.0W C-band AMC 11 *" flags="1" position="-
1312">

Names edited so I know what I'm on. And numbers in red exclusive so I can set my dish mover memory slot.

So. It looks like it will work. I'm getting my 'guns loaded'. More on that.
Make duplicate entries in the xml.
Signify H, V tp's by appending, let's say....
<sat name="131.0W H C-band AMC 11" flags="1" position="-1311">
include only horiz. tp's in it and add new blind scanned findings.
<sat name="131.0W
V C-band AMC 11" flags="1" position="-1313">
only vert. tp's in it. same for new scans.

Follow me? In Tuner setup set Port 1 for C band and voltage at 18 volts for the horiz. lnb.
Port 2 for C band, 18 volts for the vert. lnb.
And Port 3 for my sidecar ku lnbf.
Only 1 coax needs to be added to get everything down one wire to the house.

Any suggestions? A better and reliable way?

An old buddy/plumber just bought the home of the CATV owner before being bought out by the big guys.
He called me up and asked me if I wanted to look through the old stuff before he hauled it out for junk.
Boxes and boxes of new tubes. Mostly for RF amps. A mess of rectifier tubes.
And few few old boxes of dish components. Assorted Norsat lnbs. Need testing. Some look new. Others are crusty.
And a bunch of ortho feeds. I snagged a Harvard Scientific and CM. The rest are pretty crusty and weathered and pitted. Some scalars.
Tickled? Oh yeah.
Used my friends glass bead blaster. Looked up another one and he's going to powder coat them.
The plumber isn't in a big hurry to get rid of everything. But it will go.
17 Replies · 3447 views
Titanium
So you will be building two satellite listings for each satellite? Since each satellite position in the list supports one LNB profile, 22KHz switch is only controlled by profile or LO switching. The above diagram would require one satellite for horizontal and a 2nd satellite for vertical. For example: your satellite list might be SES3 Horizontal and SES3 Vertical.

Sure would be easier to mod a switch!
arlo
The dirty mod thing doesn't really show detail. But is intriguing.
So using the Geosat 8X1 (I always called it a 1X8....my bad). I need to send a constant 18-20 VDC down the coax to a 22kHz switch. Pretty much what I'm trying to do with the power inserter. Then the other coax hooked to the ku lnbf.
I only have two runs of coax out to the dish mind you.
Is it proven that the tone will get to the 22 kHz switch at the end?

Now. I'm seeing power inserters that state that they do pass the tone.
Out of curiosity I popped the cover off of the bias tee. I guess a picture would be better. Back in a moment.....
...flash. Back.

So initially the bias tee blocked 22 kHz out to the switch on the 18 V side. Lifted the inductor (yellow) and measured through the cap in red.
Still was blocked so increased the cap to a 100 nf.
That passed the tone through to the lnb port.
Soldered the inductor down. Lost the tone. So lifted the inductor at the other side. Got it back.
Removed one cap in blue, inductor soldered back. No tone.
Pulled the other cap. Now I got tone.
Soldered the psu back to the feed through and ground. Lost tone.

The other thing. The xml. In tuner setup you see your tuner. Same ole same ole. Except now you see H or V appended in the name.
And since I don't use usals, who cares what the orbital pos. is.
Thing is, it's done and ready to use. With all of the satellites pulled from the xml that will never be used.
131W - 40.5W. That's it.
Pasting in new found blindscan sats into it is easier also. That's my defense.
As for the dirty mod. If correct. Another run of coax or a juice wire would have to be sent to the dish. Correct?
Not exactly an option right now.

Bias Tee.png
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W
Late to the party, been out for awhile. I still run the old time Corotor turned by a servo motor. And separate C and Ku LNBs. No 5g out here, and I like my old setup.

What I do is use my analog box for dish moving and servo motor polarity. It's also nice for fine tuning the rotation (especially dealing with snow). It has 18v ports for both a C and a Ku LNB.

I use the 13/18v from my FTA receiver for controlling C/Ku. Therefore all my C satellites are H, and all Ku satellites are V. When I blind scan, I do each satellite twice, each with the polarity turned manually by the analog box. Just channel up or down one to flip the polarity, no big deal.

The coax from the FTA box goes to an Eagle Aspen 13/18v multi switch. Got a few of them from a box of DIRECTV stuff in a roadside pile.

At the dish side of the switch, I put voltage block couplers. This lets the 13/18v run the switch, and the 18v run the LNBs, without interfering.

Then each coax goes to a basic splitter before going out to the dish. The 3rd leg of each splitter goes to the analog box, to send the 18v to each LNB.

Not sure how much of this is applicable to your setup, but hope it helps.
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arlo
Late to the party, been out for awhile. I still run the old time Corotor turned by a servo motor. And separate C and Ku LNBs. No 5g out here, and I like my old setup.

What I do is use my analog box for dish moving and servo motor polarity. It's also nice for fine tuning the rotation (especially dealing with snow). It has 18v ports for both a C and a Ku LNB.

Check. The ASC-1 will do the same. With a box of several corotor's it could be done here.
Read back. I have a good power cable with shielded sensor wires out the the actuator.
2 coax cables. One for the precious C2-W lnbf that has since totally went south and didn't stop at the border. Both ports now dead.
The other coax runs from the house to the dish also and is used for a sidecar ku lnbf.
That's it. Everything is in 2-1/2" pvc. And since being in the ground since the 80's. Nothing will budge.
A driveway has been constructed over the pvc. It's buried at least 3 feet to be below the frost line.
My yard has maybe 6" of topsoil and basically footbll and bigger boulders from there on.
There is actually a cable for the original corotor. It's defective and shows no continuity on any wire.
Stated.


I use the 13/18v from my FTA receiver for controlling C/Ku. Therefore all my C satellites are H, and all Ku satellites are V. When I blind scan, I do each satellite twice, each with the polarity turned manually by the analog box. Just channel up or down one to flip the polarity, no big deal.

The coax from the FTA box goes to an Eagle Aspen 13/18v multi switch. Got a few of them from a box of DIRECTV stuff in a roadside pile.

At the dish side of the switch, I put voltage block couplers. This lets the 13/18v run the switch, and the 18v run the LNBs, without interfering.
And that is my intention. Firstly using the directv 20V power supply/inserter to inject voltage to the pair of norsat lnb's with a tone switch.
The whole intention is to keep current load off of the receiver or ASC-1 lnb power circuitry.


Then each coax goes to a basic splitter before going out to the dish. The 3rd leg of each splitter goes to the analog box, to send the 18v to each LNB.
The splitters I have are all non power pass. And I continuously read. And know. That unless specially constructed. As is such for broadband/catv splitters that divide rf unequally.. Each port of a 2-way splitter attenuates the signal 3dB.
And also common sense and every single post here and elsewhere states never use a splitter in a fta setup.

Not sure how much of this is applicable to your setup, but hope it helps.
It could be all applicable. Power inserters are used commonly in the amateur radio world.
And I am quite familiar with using DC blocks to provide juice to a pole mounted preamp. They work.
Also for you average everyday TV antenna with a mast mounted preamp.


With just the dtv power inserter connected. Again. Firstly on my bench and injecting a 22kHz sine, square wave signal.
The tone passes the DC blocking capacitor and into port 1 (0 Volts) of the unpowered tone switch.
When I plug in the power inserter/suppply. All 22kHz disappears. Past the bias tee DC blocking capacitor. Out the lnb port. And then of course no tone at either switch ports. But there is 20 VDc at port 1.
It didn't 'hear' a tone. And hence did not switch.

Dirty. rotten, filthy mods aside...
Doing my homework a few things come to mind. With the diseqc packets and tone riding on 18 volts from the receiver/ASC-1. Is 20 volts out of the bias tee 'swamping' the multiplexed -in- port signal?

Secondly. Wondering if I bench just the bias tee and hook up a lab supply to it. If slowly ramping up the voltage with everything past the switch hooked up. Will I get tone with a variable voltage up to 18 VDC. And past that start losing it? Doesn't make sense really. It's a FTA-WTF situation.

Thirdly. A few. EB over legit included. Mentioned that both ports of the tone switch get juice and only the RF signal was passed when switched.
Reading also I need to use an Ecoda switch. I see Ecoda switches marked as such and then I see GeosatPro tone switches marked with Ecoda with their logo on them also. Is-there-a-difference? And if so, how?

I don't know if anyone has done business with Satellitedish. I gave them a call. Friendly and informative and not in a hurry. Was told that his commercial customers using DC block F couplers sliced the coax open past them to inject DC by connecting power to the stinger and shield and it worked. Very well.
Although until I can figure out how to get a tone out of a bias tee. Or where exactly a US vendor has Ecoda switches that don't cost an arm and a gizzard.
Still in the doldrums.

arlo
Coffee talk and such.

Even though I still haven't gotten the ortho mounted and setup just yet. The gears are spinning. Perhaps close though.

Google, search, more searching. Oh Holy Saint of Electrons and Beer!
How do I get two Norsat lnb's fed with around 20 VDC and a ku lnb to that switches with 13/18 volts over two coax lines with my OsMio4k?

As mentioned. I have an 8X1 diseqc switch that has worked flawless. My diagram above shows the concept method. Remove the DirecTV power inserter and ortho. Replace with my now defunct C2-W. And it just worked.

The DTV power inserter killed all 22 kHz going out to the dish. Google. Bias Tee low pass filter calculators. Try out different component values. Swap them out in the DTV bias tee. Inject a 22 kHz sine/square wave signal of different levels. With a 22 KHz switch on the input port (to lnb) and the Norsat's on the lnb ports of the tone switch. Feed the bias tee 20 VDC. So all impedance values are hopefully matched.
Nothing. No 22 kHz passes the bias tee isolation capacitor. And the filter design apparently not rejecting the tone. And diverting it to the lnb port.

The "hack" FTA sites and others mention using the Dishnet DP44 and DPP44 successfully. The ports on them are all named in DN jargon.
Take a chance? Covering one thing more below. Do they detect 22 kHz from the receiver and generate their own internally?
If that were the case. Probably would have had one already.
But the ports appear to still switch between 13/18 volts. I need a constant (at least) 18 volts.

The naughty mod isn't detailed enough for me to see exactly what's going on. Period. And melting and wicking up sealed can solder just-gets-old.

The ASC1. A big question is if it detects 22 kHz and generates its own out to the lnb(f) port.
And I see the specs listed. Seems adequate for current delivery. But still. I really don't wish to rely on the internal regulator circuit to power the Norsat lnb's and switches, etc.
So a bias Tee is the answer. Plus the added benefit that a capacitor isolates a 'zap' like killed my C2-W and still on the bench, in queue 'other' dead ASC1.
BTW. I now have massed 3 dead ASC1's for practically zilch. For another subject. Need to catch Brian on a good day. He's helped a lot. A whole lot.

So.....
Bias Tee. Power Injector, Voltage Controlled switch.Zinwell, Channel Master. eBay. Rack mount satellite head end bias tees.
Or Bias-T if you prefer.
Channel Master 5216IFD. Channel Master 8002IFD. Zinwell Voltage Controlled Multiswitch. Spaun.
Even a CM twin lnb power injector with an amp. Would that help with any insertion loss? Not into taking chances.
Down at the office, had to fill out the forms
A pink one, a red one, the colours you choose

And I actually had to slap on that record....they're only records. Enough with that vinyl crap. On the old Dual with a V15III. And a JICO SAS.
No documentation. No install and config guides to be found.
If it's just swapping a component on an LM317 to get 18 volts on a port. I'm cool with that.
And eBay? "Shipped from China". Nah.

My local second hand shop has a box of wall warts and power bricks and a few DTV power inserters.
I thought of gutting them and using the bias tees in parallel. I'm just way over Mickey Mousing things.

So I settled on a Tru-Spec SPI-18 power inserter. It has a switch to force the ports to 18 volts. Macom has the same thing with their own sticker. If it don't work....in 'the box' she'll go.

"If". And that's a very strong 'if' it works. I'll slap a weatherproof enclosure on my pole. Run the cables through proper cable glands.
Let's see. Two coax cables. Satellite on one, pixies on the other.
T
Last reply · posted in Over the Air Television By RabbitEars.Info
So I have recently setup Indoor OTA due to drop to Local from Dish, and found out reason why I have such bad signal is my Monitor now none of cable for my monitor near OTA or it cable going to TV, but the TV right above my Monitor maybe not even a foot.

If i have 3 to 2 bars with monitor off said channel for most part of perfectly watchable, but as soon my monitor is ON (show image of desktop or what ever) OTA going to TV halved that 3 to 2 bars become 1 and 2 if I lucky and channels start scrambling alot, and depending on what is being shown on monitor it might out right give no signal, and I can easily restore singal to being bad if change what show on monitor or bring back 3 to 2 bars if I turn monitor off or let it to to standby mode.

I have already disconnect every cable on TV except the OTA cable leaving just that so it not those cable. the Power cable for monitor and DP to DVI cable the monitor is using no where near that OTA cable either.

Any idea on how to fix this? moving my monitor isnt exactly an option neither is moving the tv and moving the OTA to other side room even with long cable dont fix this issue.

I have one those Leaf MoHu antennas 11x3 ones, I had same issue with one gateway mohu antennas the older one too
15 Replies · 337 views
comfortably_numb
Do you have any splitters or combiners in between the antenna and TV? That can cause issues, especially indoors.

I would get that antenna into the attic or outside if at all possible.

And we need your Rabbitears reception report to really be able to provide answers specific to your location-

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T
Do you have any splitters or combiners in between the antenna and TV? That can cause issues, especially indoors.

I would get that antenna into the attic or outside if at all possible.

And we need your Rabbitears reception report to really be able to provide answers specific to your location-

no spilter is just for my tv


I get I just need to short out the monitor from kill the signal to the tv cause the monitor being on and show image basically castrates signal

I just moved wires around moved power cord away data cord and what not, and some made this issue worse just have my monitor on and show image was enough to just kill signal, I went and moved monitors data cable DP to DVI cable and it came back even if was still spotty at best, now I think it DP to DVI cable I using considering moving seem maninpulate how bad the signal that cable is still no where near OTA cable or any cables going to the tv, the tv and monitor are on the same surge protector though
Jimbo
no spilter is just for my tv


I get I just need to short out the monitor from kill the signal to the tv cause the monitor being on and show image basically castrates signal

I just moved wires around moved power cord away data cord and what not, and some made this issue worse just have my monitor on and show image was enough to just kill signal, I went and moved monitors data cable DP to DVI cable and it came back even if was still spotty at best, now I think it DP to DVI cable I using considering moving seem maninpulate how bad the signal that cable is still no where near OTA cable or any cables going to the tv, the tv and monitor are on the same surge protector though
Are these items all Grounded ?
You haven't defeated them ...
Make sure the outlet is grounded as well, if it's nothten nothing else is.
T
Are these items all Grounded ?
You haven't defeated them ...
Make sure the outlet is grounded as well, if it's nothten nothing else is.
Far as i know they are all ground as surge protector is grounded this particular mode APC PV11V3 has wiring/fualt light that should go on if it not grounded and it not on protection light is green and on too . I not very knowledge about all that electrical grounding so i just go by what it tells me, my other surge protecter has grounded light on I could probably just plug to same outlet this one is to see if actual grounded

Monitor has 3 prog power cord the TV is 2 prog


Sounds like there may be some RF coming from your monitor (presumed to be a computer monitor?) being picked up by the TV's proximity to the monitor.
Move the TV or the computer at least 5 ft away.
If it is cabling to monitor it would show up while the computer is on and whether the monitor is off or on.

Sadly moving the monitor (Asus VS248) is not really an option I would have move my entire room which I not about to do. Computer is under desk said monitor is on, but turn the computer off does stop signal from droping so long as monitor is on, as I test that by connecting my ps5 to that and it happened there too

I do know that Moving the DP to DVI cable under desk can and does effect the signal, depending on where that cable is I might have spotty signal or no signal out all with the monitor on. but soon as it is off signal is fine.

The DP to DVI cable is shielded and the coxial cable is a shielded RG6 cable

I will see about moving the monitor 5+ feet way just to see if proximity to tv is issue. but that wont really solve my issue cause moving desk and there for computer and monitor isnt really option

Maybe wrap the monitor in aluminum foil? Just as a test to see if it's radiating RFI that's overwhelming the OTA tuner. Obviously not a viable long-term fix.
worth try I see what happen when I get hand on some aluminum foil
Jimbo
Far as i know they are all ground as surge protector is grounded this particular mode APC PV11V3 has wiring/fualt light that should go on if it not grounded and it not on protection light is green and on too . I not very knowledge about all that electrical grounding so i just go by what it tells me, my other surge protecter has grounded light on I could probably just plug to same outlet this one is to see if actual grounded

Monitor has 3 prog power cord the TV is 2 prog




Sadly moving the monitor (Asus VS248) is not really an option I would have move my entire room which I not about to do. Computer is under desk said monitor is on, but turn the computer off does stop signal from droping so long as monitor is on, as I test that by connecting my ps5 to that and it happened there too

I do know that Moving the DP to DVI cable under desk can and does effect the signal, depending on where that cable is I might have spotty signal or no signal out all with the monitor on. but soon as it is off signal is fine.

The DP to DVI cable is shielded and the coxial cable is a shielded RG6 cable

I will see about moving the monitor 5+ feet way just to see if proximity to tv is issue. but that wont really solve my issue cause moving desk and there for computer and monitor isnt really option


worth try I see what happen when I get hand on some aluminum foil
So, the TV is Not Grounded ...
I'm interested to see what happens when you move the TV away from the rest ...
T
So, the TV is Not Grounded ...
I'm interested to see what happens when you move the TV away from the rest ...
TV is fix mounted to wall on metal brackets it can tilt and slide to side that is it it it 8 feet off ground and 55" tv it not getting moved . if it ground issues on TV how how can I fix that? I thought if surge protector is ground so are devices

It TCL 55S515 TV I have 2 of them in house both are 2 prog and most TCL tv I seen are 2 prog maybe there bigge sets are
Can you move the Antenna away from the monitor ?
Antenna is 8 feet away from tv I tried put 10 feet way didnt make difference

If I being honest after NHL Stanley Cup games I will probably stop caring and disconnect the OTA anyway cause I dont watch anything on anyway just my mom does and she attenna on here tv that really not much better it just dont have singal halve issue I have but it would be nice if I could fix,

probably the easy fix would be to get Tablo put antenna in attic like dad thinking of doing run coaxial to tablo and let feed tvs that way
Jimbo
TV is fix mounted to wall on metal brackets it can tilt and slide to side that is it it it 8 feet off ground and 55" tv it not getting moved . if it ground issues on TV how how can I fix that? I thought if surge protector is ground so are devices

It TCL 55S515 TV I have 2 of them in house both are 2 prog and most TCL tv I seen are 2 prog maybe there bigge sets are

Antenna is 8 feet away from tv I tried put 10 feet way didnt make difference

If I being honest after NHL Stanley Cup games I will probably stop caring and disconnect the OTA anyway cause I dont watch anything on anyway just my mom does and she attenna on here tv that really not much better it just dont have singal halve issue I have but it would be nice if I could fix,

probably the easy fix would be to get Tablo put antenna in attic like dad thinking of doing run coaxial to tablo and let feed tvs that way
Well, it's grounded up to the Surge Protector anyways ... but if not 3rd prong, it's not grounded ... I don't recall if my TV's have a ground, guess I never thought about it ...
Now ya got me curious, I got to check.

Well, thats interesting, I thought all TV's were grounded ... guess not, maybe they figure if the voltage gets that far, its not going to save the TV ... :(
navychop
Double insulated.
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T
Double insulated.
yes my tv is double insulated. could that be part of my problem?

I dont even get why my monitor and or the DP to DVI cable is causing this the cable is shield for this stuff yet moving that cable obviously effect the ota signal and simple act of that monitor be on cuts single in half, monitor on but in standby mode is fine, as far as i know computer gpu? is still out puting signal to monitor even when the monitor is standby mode it just dont wake up till the mouse or some input moves

aluminum foil over my monitor did stop the issue or even help in the lest
M
yes my tv is double insulated. could that be part of my problem?

I dont even get why my monitor and or the DP to DVI cable is causing this the cable is shield for this stuff yet moving that cable obviously effect the ota signal and simple act of that monitor be on cuts single in half, monitor on but in standby mode is fine, as far as i know computer gpu? is still out puting signal to monitor even when the monitor is standby mode it just dont wake up till the mouse or some input moves

aluminum foil over my monitor did stop the issue or even help in the lest

Something to try. Using an extension plug the TV into a completely different source of AC. Monitor may be feeding noise back into AC.
osu1991
get rid of the monitor and plug the computer into the tv and use it as the monitor :D:cool:
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N5XZS
Last reply · posted in Over the Air Television By RabbitEars.Info
New low power station has been granted by the FCC and the new call leter is K33OB-D on RF ch. 33.

Will run at 15 KW ERP, this one runs from the Westside same location as KWPL-LD a HC2 owned station.

It's going to be aimed at eastern part of Albuquerque, so it's tightly focused beam pattern.

This new station is owned by Digital Network and what kind of programmings is unkown at this time.😎
4 Replies · 31 views
M
This new station is owned by Digital Network and what kind of programmings is unkown at this time
probably the same programming they have been putting on their other owned stations.
The 'get after it media' stations
Like Heartland, Retro, rev'n, Action etc
N5XZS
Thanks Mr Tony, Hopefully no duplicates and put on like Revin, Karate movies.

It would be nice if they can put a least 2 HD 2 or 3 SD diginets for Albuquerque metro areas.😎🤞
M
Here are a few markets with the stations per rabbitears.
IMG_6471.webp

IMG_6472.webp
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N5XZS
Hope they got good subchannels encoder going there...😎👍🤞
KAB
KAB
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in TV Shows
Can't wait!
96 Replies · 13717 views
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Foxbat
I was pretty satisfied by the Finale as well. So many multi-season shows come up short, but this one was well done. The whole season has had a pretty high body count (including some of the executive producers😉) so the tombstone seemed quite appropriate.

Hopefully the Gen V show sticks around a few more seasons.
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meStevo
I was pretty satisfied by the Finale as well. So many multi-season shows come up short, but this one was well done. The whole season has had a pretty high body count (including some of the executive producers😉) so the tombstone seemed quite appropriate.

Hopefully the Gen V show sticks around a few more seasons.

Gen V was cancelled already. The story of The Boys is over, it's on to the prequel now.

All that buildup in their series and they were called useless, retconned and sidelined in the finale.
MikeD-C05
Wow, Jensen Ackles keeps on getting the roles. And that woman is supposed to be Storm Front I take it. I will watch. I like anything he does from Supernatural to Tracker and the Boys. :smug
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meStevo
Yeah, Aya Cash returning as Stormfront who was known as Clara Vought / Liberty at that time.
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Y
I wanted Butcher and Homelander to share a prison cell upon waking up after the final battle.

Also didn't like the foreshadowing The Deep's ending. They could have done that so much better. Effectively getting tossed into the ocean by Starlight. The sea life coming towards him, he feels comfort, and starts to escape from the battle. The sealife gets a bit nippy, The Deep is confused... it gets harder and harsher and then The Deep understands what is going on. A little bit of a fearful chase would have been warranted to, because The Deep gets off a bit too easy in my opinion (as much as someone can be in such a brutal ending, I suppose). I thinking he is able to outpace things, and finds a large rock to get out of the water. Sealife bickers with him from the water. The Deep tells them he isn't going back in. From behind, a large walrus gets out of the water, shoves him back in and the feeding frenzy ensues.

Overall a decent show. Guilty of deus ex machina in the end. Homelander ending Homelander would have made more sense, and was the direction I thought they were moving in.

I have little interest in a prequel, and a lot more interest in the power vacuum left with Edgers getting back in control and how he would likely use Vought "for good" to get the tentacles back into the system. The entire policing system having been corrupted by Homelander and Vought. The end is like Return of the Jedi, where the Emperor is dead... but umm... what about the entire Empire that still exists?!
Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in The Chit Chat Club
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!

So let the game continue!

The last song was added by Bobby who posted...

One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters

CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!

Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game

Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.

Example:

Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow

Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio

Another example:

Ride the Lightning -- Metallica

Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne


Get it?


An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
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harshness
Give Me the Night - George Benson
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Bobby
Gonna Give Her All The Love I've Got - Jimmy Ruffin
FTA4PA
Margaritaville - Jimmy Buffett
gms49ers
Top Jimmy - Van Halen
sdfntx
You're the Top - Allan Sherman
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zippyfrog
Pub Member / Supporter Lifetime Supporter
Last reply · posted in DISH Network Support Forum
Over the past year I have been tracking the changes on Western Arc. The past 3 months have had a lot of changes that I posted in the other MPEG2 Western Arc shutdown thread. Now that 129 is (basically) out of commission, here is where Western Arc stands. This is just a national channel list, (no local channels) based off what I can see and what others have contributed. Thanks to everyone who has helped me come up with the locations of some of the channels – I would try and list all of you out, but I know I would forget someone! As has been suggested in other parts of the forum, it would be great to collect the spotbeam data for those who could contribute!

A couple of pieces of info:
  • Out of the 64 transponders between 110/119, there are currently 50 transponders that Dish is licensed to use. 22 are Spotbeams, 28 are ConUS transponders (14 transponders are licensed to DirecTV and Dish doesn't have access to them)
  • Those 28 ConUS transponders are divided as follows:
    • 10 are dedicated to National HD channels (ESPN, CNN, Disney Channel, etc). Dish is maxing out at 16 HD channels per transponder (note – in an earlier post I said there was one transponder with 17 HD channels, that was an error on my part. When I double checked my listings, one channel changed transponders). Before the transition, there was a maximum of 14 HD channels per transponder.
    • 1 transponder is dedicated to adult content
    • 2 are a mixture HD PPV Movies/4k channels
    • 3 are set aside for HD Sports channels that are only on for live games (NBA League Pass, the PAC 12 alternate channels, some PPV events, etc); 3 SD PPV Sports Channels are there as well.
    • 7 are for SD and/or music channels. Dish is maxing out at 26 SD channels per transponder thus far on the SD transponders.
    • 5 transponders on 110 I have no channels listed but Dish operates. (they are labeled as ConUS on my chart below) There are other things that could be on those transponders, like RV Distant Networks, internal testing channels, etc, that I can't see. They might be able to be used for additional content, but I am not sure exactly what is on those transponders.
There are two transponders that have lower than normal SD channels – 110, TP 21 and 119, TP 19. Previously those transponders contained the programming guides that get downloaded from the satellite when the receivers download EPG. I assume that is where the programming guides are still downloaded from, thus less channels there.

When I talk about number of channels on a transponder, all my numbers are unique channels – for example, channel 101 and 199 are the same channel mapped to two different numbers, but in terms of space, only takes up 1 channel worth of bandwidth on the transponder.

Finally, I have to give Dish a ton of credit. When it was 110/119/129, Dish had 82 transponders they were using – it took a lot to get it down to 50 transponders and figure out where all the pieces were going to go. What are the things they did to get there? Here are the things I saw:
  • During this migration from 129, Dish converted 7 ConUS transponders on 119 into Spotbeams – that is how they ended up fitting on all the HD locals that used to be on 129. (for those interested, TP 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13 are the ones that used to be ConUS on 119 that are now Spotbeam)
  • Removed almost all SD duplicate channels that are offered in HD
  • Converted remaining SD channels from MPEG2 to MPEG4
  • There are also 2 subtle things that changed from the HD channel perspective
    • At the beginning of the transition, Dish decreased the number of PPV Movie channels – prior to this transition the PPV channels HD PPV movies were 502-522; now they are 502-517.
    • At the beginning of April when MLB, NBA, and NHL regular seasons were all going on at the same time and this transition began, there were a ton of games "joined in progress" for the HD feeds. That wasn't common since the days before the full time HD RSN's. The reason for that was prior to the transition, Dish had 4 transponders set aside for HD Sports – 2 transponders was the bandwidth set aside from the HD RSN's before Dish dropped the RSN's, then 2 transponders were for alternate channels. Now we are down to 3 transponders for HD sports.
232 Replies · 62579 views
zippyfrog
Updated the first couple of posts with the listings of the changes.
R
Over the past year I have been tracking the changes on Western Arc. The past 3 months have had a lot of changes that I posted in the other MPEG2 Western Arc shutdown thread. Now that 129 is (basically) out of commission, here is where Western Arc stands. This is just a national channel list, (no local channels) based off what I can see and what others have contributed. Thanks to everyone who has helped me come up with the locations of some of the channels – I would try and list all of you out, but I know I would forget someone! As has been suggested in other parts of the forum, it would be great to collect the spotbeam data for those who could contribute!

A couple of pieces of info:
  • Out of the 64 transponders between 110/119, there are currently 50 transponders that Dish is licensed to use. 22 are Spotbeams, 28 are ConUS transponders (14 transponders are licensed to DirecTV and Dish doesn't have access to them)
  • Those 28 ConUS transponders are divided as follows:
    • 10 are dedicated to National HD channels (ESPN, CNN, Disney Channel, etc). Dish is maxing out at 16 HD channels per transponder (note – in an earlier post I said there was one transponder with 17 HD channels, that was an error on my part. When I double checked my listings, one channel changed transponders). Before the transition, there was a maximum of 14 HD channels per transponder.
    • 1 transponder is dedicated to adult content
    • 2 are a mixture HD PPV Movies/4k channels
    • 3 are set aside for HD Sports channels that are only on for live games (NBA League Pass, the PAC 12 alternate channels, some PPV events, etc); 3 SD PPV Sports Channels are there as well.
    • 7 are for SD and/or music channels. Dish is maxing out at 26 SD channels per transponder thus far on the SD transponders.
    • 5 transponders on 110 I have no channels listed but Dish operates. (they are labeled as ConUS on my chart below) There are other things that could be on those transponders, like RV Distant Networks, internal testing channels, etc, that I can't see. They might be able to be used for additional content, but I am not sure exactly what is on those transponders.
There are two transponders that have lower than normal SD channels – 110, TP 21 and 119, TP 19. Previously those transponders contained the programming guides that get downloaded from the satellite when the receivers download EPG. I assume that is where the programming guides are still downloaded from, thus less channels there.

When I talk about number of channels on a transponder, all my numbers are unique channels – for example, channel 101 and 199 are the same channel mapped to two different numbers, but in terms of space, only takes up 1 channel worth of bandwidth on the transponder.

Finally, I have to give Dish a ton of credit. When it was 110/119/129, Dish had 82 transponders they were using – it took a lot to get it down to 50 transponders and figure out where all the pieces were going to go. What are the things they did to get there? Here are the things I saw:
  • During this migration from 129, Dish converted 7 ConUS transponders on 119 into Spotbeams – that is how they ended up fitting on all the HD locals that used to be on 129. (for those interested, TP 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13 are the ones that used to be ConUS on 119 that are now Spotbeam)
  • Removed almost all SD duplicate channels that are offered in HD
  • Converted remaining SD channels from MPEG2 to MPEG4
  • There are also 2 subtle things that changed from the HD channel perspective
    • At the beginning of the transition, Dish decreased the number of PPV Movie channels – prior to this transition the PPV channels HD PPV movies were 502-522; now they are 502-517.
    • At the beginning of April when MLB, NBA, and NHL regular seasons were all going on at the same time and this transition began, there were a ton of games "joined in progress" for the HD feeds. That wasn't common since the days before the full time HD RSN's. The reason for that was prior to the transition, Dish had 4 transponders set aside for HD Sports – 2 transponders was the bandwidth set aside from the HD RSN's before Dish dropped the RSN's, then 2 transponders were for alternate channels. Now we are down to 3 transponders for HD sports.
I appreciate you doing all of this. With me having DISH Outdoors this is excellent for when I travel and have to get other locals. Also what does this mean for the 61.5 satellite?

My home locals come out of Springfield/Decatur/Champaign, IL.
I too have taken noticed they moved to the 110 satellite with the spotbeam of 27. Signal Strength is between 46-47. When they were on 119 satellite I was getting about 43-44 signal strength. Much improvement!

Also my post about MLB Extra Innings. I think it may be due to this transition of satellites between 110 & 119
MLB Extra Innings use to be on 110 Satellite. On my guide it only lists 476-01 Baltimore Orioles but I clicked on it and it says its on Satellite 119 with Transponder 13. Maybe this is the reason for my troubles! Shouldn't of fried my DISH though! DISH owes me LOL! Like I will really see it.

RJ T.
From Illinois

RJ T.
From Illinois
zippyfrog
I appreciate you doing all of this. With me having DISH Outdoors this is excellent for when I travel and have to get other locals. Also what does this mean for the 61.5 satellite?

My home locals come out of Springfield/Decatur/Champaign, IL.
I too have taken noticed they moved to the 110 satellite with the spotbeam of 27. Signal Strength is between 46-47. When they were on 119 satellite I was getting about 43-44 signal strength. Much improvement!

Also my post about MLB Extra Innings. I think it may be due to this transition of satellites between 110 & 119
MLB Extra Innings use to be on 110 Satellite. On my guide it only lists 476-01 Baltimore Orioles but I clicked on it and it says its on Satellite 119 with Transponder 13. Maybe this is the reason for my troubles! Shouldn't of fried my DISH though! DISH owes me LOL! Like I will really see it.

RJ T.
From Illinois

RJ T.
From Illinois
I just saw your response and posted on the other thread! In terms of 61.5, I don't have Eastern Arc, and my friend who I used to get Eastern Arc info from no longer has Dish.
R
I just saw your response and posted on the other thread! In terms of 61.5, I don't have Eastern Arc, and my friend who I used to get Eastern Arc info from no longer has Dish.
That is okay. Its just when I sometimes go east the locals there are on 61.5 and sometimes have to use it. It will be great to only have to use the 110 & 119 satellite. No reason to use the 61.5 unless there is a problem receiving 119 there and most of the time at least for me it doesn't seem to be an issue. Maybe more up in the very northeast part of the US.

RJ T.
From Illinois
Tampa8
Updated the first couple of posts with the listings of the changes.
Appreciate your doing this!
Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in SatelliteGuys Support Center
As you may have noticed we are doing a Fund Raiser for SatelliteGuys!

As many of you know I have been paying for a majority of the operation of the site out of my own pocket for awhile now. Now looking at things we have a number of renewals coming up that I could use some help with. These renewals include the license renewal for our Forum Software, Renewal of a number of our add on's the site uses, renewal of domain names etc.

I have set a goal of $400.00 - any extra that comes in will just go to fund the operations of the site. None of the money will go to me (I tried BuyMeACoffee a few months ago, and they denied me saying they do not do business with Satellite Piracy sites... which we are not... hell we host the beta programs for both DISH and DIRECTV here...)

Anyways... if you would like to help out please click the link below.


Thank you in advance. :)
17 Replies · 495 views
Scott Greczkowski
I planned on removing it today, but then my fathers car broke down and I had to drive him all around to get his stuff done. Then I had a doctors appointment after that which was annoying...

Dr asks me if I have had any changes, so I tell him something wrong with me that started a month or so ago and his reply back is, that it sucks to get old... I hate that. Why ask me. if your going to come back with a smart ass answer.

Anyays I hope to get rid of Tapatalk tomorrow. :)

And we had more people donate today, thank you! The extra money is going to future expenses since things like add ons don't expire at the same time.

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU AGAIN!
Foxbat
Anyays I hope to get rid of Tapatalk tomorrow. :)
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T
Yeah, dr's...joint pain? Your joints are wearing out. It hurts when I do this...don't do that
comfortably_numb
Dr asks me if I have had any changes, so I tell him something wrong with me that started a month or so ago and his reply back is, that it sucks to get old

No excuse for a flippant response like that from a doctor! I'd be looking for a different one.
Scott Greczkowski
Tapatalk has been removed.

I have added a new feature which is a work in progress called "Social Feed" which displays the forums Facebook style. Its nice for people who like that, but needs work. But i have been watching this one for awhile and the author is being really responsive to suggestions and adding them. So if you have any please let me know and I can pass them along. :)
navychop
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Scott Greczkowski
Staff member HERE TO HELP YOU! Cutting Edge
Last reply · posted in SatelliteGuys Support Center
Due to security concerns and the fact that the Tapatalk Plugin for Xenforo is no longer being updated we have removed Tapatalk support from SatelliteGuys.

For those who were using it we recommend using our PWA App instead which is faster and does not have all the spam Tapatalk had. Below is a graphic showing how to add SatelliteGuys to your devices home screen. (While iOS is shown the process is mostly the same for Android.)

add_to_home.gif

Thanks for your understanding. :)
1 Replies · 64 views
Foxbat
Thank you, Scott, for adding years to my Life and dropping my BP a few millimeters! Money well spent…