Social Feed
Tron and I (and others) have talked about a thread to discuss how to make the overheating Starbox I USB units work better.
My buddy repackaged his in a little wire-mesh pencil holder.
The fan is in the base, and connectors are on top.
His power supply is external.
He did install heatsinks (not visible), but that's really overkill with the well ventilated case and the fan.
Hope his pictures do it justice.
I installed my power supply inside the PC power supply box.
Connectors are readily accessible through existing grill holes (or were enlarged with a nibbler).
The original on/off switch and AC power input connector are used.
Standoffs under the board are nylon, and raise it 3/4 inch above the floor.
The DC power cable is bundled at the end of the board, then is routed outside the case where it plugs into the original connector.
The unit should be easily restored to original condition, if necessary.
Anole said:
My buddy repackaged his in a little wire-mesh pencil holder.
The fan is in the base, and connectors are on top.
His power supply is external.
He did install heatsinks (not visible), but that's really overkill with the well ventilated case and the fan.
Hope his pictures do it justice.
I installed my power supply inside the PC power supply box.
Connectors are readily accessible through existing grill holes (or were enlarged with a nibbler).
The original on/off switch and AC power input connector are used.
Standoffs under the board are nylon, and raise it 3/4 inch above the floor.
The DC power cable is bundled at the end of the board, then is routed outside the case where it plugs into the original connector.
The unit should be easily restored to original condition, if necessary.
7 Replies
·
5696 views
I've used PC power supplies as project boxes before, but this is a new use for me; good job! I like them because they are well ventilated, easy to find, have built-in power connectors and often sturdy on/off switches. Usually when I used them I'd add four rubber feet onto the bottom to make it more 'professional' - often off of another bit of junk
On your design, I'd suggest throwing in a little Radio Shack toggle switch in one of the holes between the current to the existing fan. It would take only a few minutes, and then if you ever decided you needed better cooling (on a super-hot day, maybe) it's only a click away. Of course, I'm geeky enough to toss in a variable resistor (think dimmer knob on a light) to create the perfect adjustable balance of airflow and low noise... but 9V is usually perfect to run 12v PC fans quietly.
On your design, I'd suggest throwing in a little Radio Shack toggle switch in one of the holes between the current to the existing fan. It would take only a few minutes, and then if you ever decided you needed better cooling (on a super-hot day, maybe) it's only a click away. Of course, I'm geeky enough to toss in a variable resistor (think dimmer knob on a light) to create the perfect adjustable balance of airflow and low noise... but 9V is usually perfect to run 12v PC fans quietly.
rubber feet
When I was testing to determine if the Twinhan Starbox USB was overheating...
I pried open the top of the plastic case.
Didn't know about the screws at that time, and just assumed the case was snapped together.
I got it parted maybe 1/4 inch - just barely enough to slide a chipset fan in about half way.
Not a CPU fan - but one that goes on the motherboard chipset - very tiny.
I powered it externally, and noted that solved the temperature problem.
So, I knew that just minimal cooling would be sufficient.
My buddy and I came up with all sorts of overkill solutions for heatsinks, heatpipes, blowers, evaporators, plumbing, and liquid Nitrogen.
...Including, but not limited to cutting a hole in the existing plastic box.
As a test, he attached his naked board to a P3/Celeron heatsink meant for the Slot-1 CPUs (we have lots of old stuff around).
His heatsink and fan worked great!
My little chipset fan worked, too.
But, neither solution was elegant.
I just wanted to be done with it.
He wanted his to be a fancy conversation piece.
You see where it led us.
And actually, my box has 6 rubber feet on it.
In retrospect, I should have put more on the side, as I like to rotate the box 90 degrees to use it.
My box was way too big, until I realized there was room to put the power supply inside.
And, I -so- hate those external wall-wart power supplies.
Nothing quite like using a stock power cable.
To each his own.
When I was testing to determine if the Twinhan Starbox USB was overheating...
I pried open the top of the plastic case.
Didn't know about the screws at that time, and just assumed the case was snapped together.
I got it parted maybe 1/4 inch - just barely enough to slide a chipset fan in about half way.
Not a CPU fan - but one that goes on the motherboard chipset - very tiny.
I powered it externally, and noted that solved the temperature problem.
So, I knew that just minimal cooling would be sufficient.
My buddy and I came up with all sorts of overkill solutions for heatsinks, heatpipes, blowers, evaporators, plumbing, and liquid Nitrogen.
...Including, but not limited to cutting a hole in the existing plastic box.
As a test, he attached his naked board to a P3/Celeron heatsink meant for the Slot-1 CPUs (we have lots of old stuff around).
His heatsink and fan worked great!
My little chipset fan worked, too.
But, neither solution was elegant.
I just wanted to be done with it.
He wanted his to be a fancy conversation piece.
You see where it led us.
And actually, my box has 6 rubber feet on it.
In retrospect, I should have put more on the side, as I like to rotate the box 90 degrees to use it.
My box was way too big, until I realized there was room to put the power supply inside.
And, I -so- hate those external wall-wart power supplies.
Nothing quite like using a stock power cable.
To each his own.
Z
hi
you all seem like people that have a lot exp with the starbox II
i got the starbox II but i'm really new to this really need help to get the FTA signal.
bab thing: i don't event know what size of dish and lnb should i get?
my email address is alex_kenyo@yahoo.com
so please contact me i really need help with this...
thank in adv.
Ziiro
Tron and I (and others) have talked about a thread to discuss how to make the overheating Starbox I USB units work better.
My buddy repackaged his in a little wire-mesh pencil holder.
The fan is in the base, and connectors are on top.
His power supply is external.
He did install heatsinks (not visible), but that's really overkill with the well ventilated case and the fan.
Hope his pictures do it justice.
I installed my power supply inside the PC power supply box.
Connectors are readily accessible through existing grill holes (or were enlarged with a nibbler).
The original on/off switch and AC power input connector are used.
Standoffs under the board are nylon, and raise it 3/4 inch above the floor.
The DC power cable is bundled at the end of the board, then is routed outside the case where it plugs into the original connector.
The unit should be easily restored to original condition, if necessary.
hi
you all seem like people that have a lot exp with the starbox II
i got the starbox II but i'm really new to this really need help to get the FTA signal.
bab thing: i don't event know what size of dish and lnb should i get?
my email address is alex_kenyo@yahoo.com
so please contact me i really need help with this...
thank in adv.
Ziiro
Well, let's see . . .
1). I think I'd edit my post to remove that email address.
- nothing good can come of it.
2). this thread is about the overheating problem and how to fix it.
- please open a new thread in this department, and we can talk about it.
3). what satellites were you interested in receiving?
- that has an effect on which new or surplus dishes and LNBs to recommend.
( put that in your new thread)
4). welcome to SatelliteGuys
1). I think I'd edit my post to remove that email address.
- nothing good can come of it.
2). this thread is about the overheating problem and how to fix it.
- please open a new thread in this department, and we can talk about it.
3). what satellites were you interested in receiving?
- that has an effect on which new or surplus dishes and LNBs to recommend.
( put that in your new thread)
4). welcome to SatelliteGuys
Staff member
HERE TO HELP YOU!
Cutting Edge
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!
So let the game continue!
The last song was added by Bobby who posted...
One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters
CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!
Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game
Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.
Example:
Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow
Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio
Another example:
Ride the Lightning -- Metallica
Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne
Get it?
An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
So let the game continue!
The last song was added by Bobby who posted...
One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters
CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!
Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game
Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.
Example:
Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow
Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio
Another example:
Ride the Lightning -- Metallica
Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne
Get it?
An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68639 Replies
·
2679377 views
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtLJGwEtyT0
Direct YouTube Link - Apple's All-New iPad mini
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtLJGwEtyT0
Direct YouTube Link - Apple's All-New iPad mini
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
0 Replies
·
10 views
Lifetime Supporter
I know HipKat said that they were working on conversions but we got the official news yesterday right from Dish that starting next month all DMA's will be on the western arc, and all customers will be assigned to that. That's gonna mean a lot of customers around here aren't gonna get Dish unless there are exceptions. Too many mountains and trees.
175 Replies
·
5074 views
Howdy folks long time no write.
Issue(s): Horizontal transponders (esp. Weigel mux) breakup/mosaic/sputtering audio, JTV less so (but received perfectly up until a month or so ago.
Vertical is fine (Daystar). Up until recently couldn't even get any signal on Weigel Mux but JTV was perfect.
What I did to improve things: A slight westward move improved reception but only slightly (approx 72 on the micro HD, sorry no dB to post). I removed the 3-way C-Band splitter and used a 2-way to get a 1-2 db signal gain ( the power port goes to the Startrak - the micro HD doesn't have enough juice ! (1st clue) even after swapping the switching power supply it came with with a heftier linear 12 V supply (less RFI too !).
I have had issues with the uHD before signal breaking up that a reboot would clear up (clue #2 = dying tuner?) - FYI, I reinforced the IF input and removed all flux from the pcb completely with a Flux Removal Pen (MG Chemicals Cat No. 4140-P) which definitely makes a huge difference.
I went outside and pushed and pulled reflector slightly and no improvement. Pole (actually tower in yard - the neighbours love me..NOT) is plumb, checked with carpenters level. Dish was last peaked in 2017 or so, after overhauling 24" Von Weise, new Acme, fresh grease, etc. Focal length, f/d ratio etc meticulously adjusted. One panel has a tear so planning to repair that this weekend when my cousin comes over ( to help me out (old guy here) forecast calls for sunshine.
What has changed: My utility company has installed new high tension line poles (one smack dab in the middle of 101°W target! But they put it in last year and reception (of JTV (HOR) at least) was fine, BUT when they came out to transfer the wires over this year from the old (sawed in half) pole that's about when the troubles started (coincidence?), but again Daystar (VER) was fine. I always had this pole in the light of sight of 101° before with no issues. (fyi my zenith sat 74° is unobstucted, but can't test)
In the meantime Weigel mux is trying to break in MOSTLY in LATE at night (less cell usage?) (audio not video except for a frame here or there) so don't know what has changed with this mux which suddenly "woke up". I have never had to fuss with dish moves on this satellite ( the slightest move +/- motor clicks loses lock, wheres normally on C-band I can go significantly wider east or west and still have a strong signal ( have these gone "spot beam" or narrower somehow and what is the slight difference in Az listed on Lyngsat to 100.9° affect things ( isn't that the declination i.e. requiring a tweak of declination?).
Long story short (too late, ha), if I had another DVB-S2 box to try and / or a newer more stable PLL lnb ( I have been meaning to upgrade many a time but never got arround to it) I could determine if it's my antiquated receiving equipment, or my dish/feed alignment ( doubtful as it tracks everything from 55 °W to 133 ° W nicely.) or the dreaded 5G! (BUT only on HOR and not VER?).
I read another post where the OP (with his smaller 7.5 footer) played around with the illumination to peak desired transponder and reduce qrm on interfering/ stronger xpndrs (even on 103° W). So will play with that too - and cut away the RG-6 a and pull up a fresh section with new PPC and coax Seal. Open the throat cap see if any cobwebs are there and check servo operation (also changed in last maintence 10 years ago).
Finally, this will probably be the last chance I get to play with the BUD from the looks of it (providers leaving, auctioning off rest of spectrum imminent above 4.0 Ghz, and to keep the peace with neighbours so it would be nice to have that mux back for the long, cold and dark winters to comfort this old man before I call it quits and buy a VHF/UHF/FM Yagi and get MeTV, H&I from my Vermont local stations (checked at a friends today and they come in nicely - except ABC) .
Only one guy in town (Montreal) I may be able to get a receiver or PLL lnb from to try (RPS Sat) so hopefully with elimnate that as a possible culprit. Be nice to pick up a cheap or used PLL lnb to try w/o 5G BPF (money is tight )
Like others I couldn't care less about "tv" (well maybe just a liitle or a lot) it's the challenge that excites me , I can get MeTV other ways OTA (no pirate crap).
So what do you guys (and gals) think ?. p.s. I don't have a spectrum analyzer and there are def/ cell towers nearby (half a Km or so away).
Oh and time permitting will hammer out dings too and wire damaged mesh on one section for an extra dB or two. Hesitate to touch Declination, Elevation and pole mount but will play around with those a little too... Why is this mux for finicky suddenly ?(8psk, 5/6 fec, beamwidthetc.. man wish they went back to VER I think everthing would be fine! For the engineers out here does 5G QRM affect one poliarization (HOR) more than another (VER)? I understand the strong interference swamps out the input mixer/local oscilator in the hapless old C-band lnb (I think it at time affect KU too esp. LPB on 101°W KU - incidentally thos were weak or "gone' but are back almost at the time MeTV improved..hmm Terrestrial interference?
Any thoughts or suggestions ( cheap or free solutions please) greatly appreciated. Cheers.
p.p.s. Micro HD can't display Decades and Toons but records them fine so I can watch on another box/media player (Ali chip set issue). Another reason to upgrade.
Anybody interested in a nice C/KU system free ? (for next Spring/Summer 2027)
[Sami 10' mesh, Corotor II+, Eagle Aspen (very old) C-band lnb, Norsat Ku lnb, Channel Master C/Ku (H/V) switch, Startrak 400 Analog receiver w/ motor control, Geosat uHD DVD-S2, CW600S for Mpeg-2]
Issue(s): Horizontal transponders (esp. Weigel mux) breakup/mosaic/sputtering audio, JTV less so (but received perfectly up until a month or so ago.
Vertical is fine (Daystar). Up until recently couldn't even get any signal on Weigel Mux but JTV was perfect.
What I did to improve things: A slight westward move improved reception but only slightly (approx 72 on the micro HD, sorry no dB to post). I removed the 3-way C-Band splitter and used a 2-way to get a 1-2 db signal gain ( the power port goes to the Startrak - the micro HD doesn't have enough juice ! (1st clue) even after swapping the switching power supply it came with with a heftier linear 12 V supply (less RFI too !).
I have had issues with the uHD before signal breaking up that a reboot would clear up (clue #2 = dying tuner?) - FYI, I reinforced the IF input and removed all flux from the pcb completely with a Flux Removal Pen (MG Chemicals Cat No. 4140-P) which definitely makes a huge difference.
I went outside and pushed and pulled reflector slightly and no improvement. Pole (actually tower in yard - the neighbours love me..NOT) is plumb, checked with carpenters level. Dish was last peaked in 2017 or so, after overhauling 24" Von Weise, new Acme, fresh grease, etc. Focal length, f/d ratio etc meticulously adjusted. One panel has a tear so planning to repair that this weekend when my cousin comes over ( to help me out (old guy here) forecast calls for sunshine.
What has changed: My utility company has installed new high tension line poles (one smack dab in the middle of 101°W target! But they put it in last year and reception (of JTV (HOR) at least) was fine, BUT when they came out to transfer the wires over this year from the old (sawed in half) pole that's about when the troubles started (coincidence?), but again Daystar (VER) was fine. I always had this pole in the light of sight of 101° before with no issues. (fyi my zenith sat 74° is unobstucted, but can't test)
In the meantime Weigel mux is trying to break in MOSTLY in LATE at night (less cell usage?) (audio not video except for a frame here or there) so don't know what has changed with this mux which suddenly "woke up". I have never had to fuss with dish moves on this satellite ( the slightest move +/- motor clicks loses lock, wheres normally on C-band I can go significantly wider east or west and still have a strong signal ( have these gone "spot beam" or narrower somehow and what is the slight difference in Az listed on Lyngsat to 100.9° affect things ( isn't that the declination i.e. requiring a tweak of declination?).
Long story short (too late, ha), if I had another DVB-S2 box to try and / or a newer more stable PLL lnb ( I have been meaning to upgrade many a time but never got arround to it) I could determine if it's my antiquated receiving equipment, or my dish/feed alignment ( doubtful as it tracks everything from 55 °W to 133 ° W nicely.) or the dreaded 5G! (BUT only on HOR and not VER?).
I read another post where the OP (with his smaller 7.5 footer) played around with the illumination to peak desired transponder and reduce qrm on interfering/ stronger xpndrs (even on 103° W). So will play with that too - and cut away the RG-6 a and pull up a fresh section with new PPC and coax Seal. Open the throat cap see if any cobwebs are there and check servo operation (also changed in last maintence 10 years ago).
Finally, this will probably be the last chance I get to play with the BUD from the looks of it (providers leaving, auctioning off rest of spectrum imminent above 4.0 Ghz, and to keep the peace with neighbours so it would be nice to have that mux back for the long, cold and dark winters to comfort this old man before I call it quits and buy a VHF/UHF/FM Yagi and get MeTV, H&I from my Vermont local stations (checked at a friends today and they come in nicely - except ABC) .
Only one guy in town (Montreal) I may be able to get a receiver or PLL lnb from to try (RPS Sat) so hopefully with elimnate that as a possible culprit. Be nice to pick up a cheap or used PLL lnb to try w/o 5G BPF (money is tight )
Like others I couldn't care less about "tv" (well maybe just a liitle or a lot) it's the challenge that excites me , I can get MeTV other ways OTA (no pirate crap).
So what do you guys (and gals) think ?. p.s. I don't have a spectrum analyzer and there are def/ cell towers nearby (half a Km or so away).
Oh and time permitting will hammer out dings too and wire damaged mesh on one section for an extra dB or two. Hesitate to touch Declination, Elevation and pole mount but will play around with those a little too... Why is this mux for finicky suddenly ?(8psk, 5/6 fec, beamwidthetc.. man wish they went back to VER I think everthing would be fine! For the engineers out here does 5G QRM affect one poliarization (HOR) more than another (VER)? I understand the strong interference swamps out the input mixer/local oscilator in the hapless old C-band lnb (I think it at time affect KU too esp. LPB on 101°W KU - incidentally thos were weak or "gone' but are back almost at the time MeTV improved..hmm Terrestrial interference?
Any thoughts or suggestions ( cheap or free solutions please) greatly appreciated. Cheers.
p.p.s. Micro HD can't display Decades and Toons but records them fine so I can watch on another box/media player (Ali chip set issue). Another reason to upgrade.
Anybody interested in a nice C/KU system free ? (for next Spring/Summer 2027)
[Sami 10' mesh, Corotor II+, Eagle Aspen (very old) C-band lnb, Norsat Ku lnb, Channel Master C/Ku (H/V) switch, Startrak 400 Analog receiver w/ motor control, Geosat uHD DVD-S2, CW600S for Mpeg-2]
17 Replies
·
654 views
Interesting article about the work being done to develope an ATSC 3 converter box. Yes it does mention affordable.
www.tvtechnology.com
Pearl TV Issues Progress Report on Low-Cost 3.0 Converters in Advance of NAB Show New York
Group has secured lower pricing from key tech players to make less costly boxes available
www.tvtechnology.com
11 Replies
·
590 views
It's dead, they just don't know it yet. They killed it by forcing DRM on it, and that TOTALLY botched implementing it.
There is absolutely NO compelling reason for anybody to switch to ATSC3.0. They only want it as a total and complete money grab.
S
WHAT ABOUT THE INTERNET PART OF IT. NO ONE WANTS A BOX CONNECTED TO THE INTERNET EITHER.
It's dead, they just don't know it yet. They killed it by forcing DRM on it, and that TOTALLY botched implementing it.
There is absolutely NO compelling reason for anybody to switch to ATSC3.0. They only want it as a total and complete money grab.
Pub Member / Supporter
Lifetime Supporter
Love this guy's channel. Looks like Walmart has thrown in the towel when it comes to conventional car batteries.
I bought a new AGM battery from Walmart about a year ago, it is already needing replacing. I thought about just buying a regular battery but from what I've read, that might not be a smart move. Might check my Forscan program and see if I can change the battery type from AGM.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awe7kY5nvdU
I bought a new AGM battery from Walmart about a year ago, it is already needing replacing. I thought about just buying a regular battery but from what I've read, that might not be a smart move. Might check my Forscan program and see if I can change the battery type from AGM.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awe7kY5nvdU
20 Replies
·
293 views
Pub Member / Supporter
Susan Saint James, Emmy-Winning Star of ‘Kate & Allie’ and ‘McMillan & Wife,’ Dies at 80
Susan Saint James, the Emmy-winning actress who starred in "Kate & Allie," died Monday after being diagnosed with pancreatic cancer. She was 80.
variety.com
3 Replies
·
48 views
Lon.TV
Time for another AWESOME video from Lon Seidman of LON.TV!
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFY_gHuMhUU
Direct YouTube Link - I Used AI to Replace Apps I Was Paying For
The Official LON.TV Website
Lon on Facebook
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFY_gHuMhUU
Direct YouTube Link - I Used AI to Replace Apps I Was Paying For
The Official LON.TV Website
Lon on Facebook
0 Replies
·
26 views
My OTA is not working anymore. This started after the latest update. I have the OTA dongle with a OTA antenna that I've been using for years. My hopper does not recognize the dongle anymore and when I go to the OTA setting, it has a screen that says to plug a dongle into the USB. I tried unplugging and plugging back, in the same usb port and other ports. The Hopper does not recognize it. Anyone have same issue?
204 Replies
·
5666 views
Hi all. If you were using a single tuner USB OTA adapter that is no longer working, please PM me. Thanks.
I have the dual tuner OTA adapter currently connected, but I have 2 of the single tuner OTA adapters that I can quickly connect - neither is seen by my H3.Hi all. If you were using a single tuner USB OTA adapter that is no longer working, please PM me. Thanks.
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK11O-VoMBU
Direct YouTube Link - Security Now 1102
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK11O-VoMBU
Direct YouTube Link - Security Now 1102
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
0 Replies
·
28 views