100 cycles per sec vs 60

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kodaz

SatelliteGuys Pro
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Aug 22, 2010
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North East PA
Hi Folks,
I recently got my micro hydro plant on line.It didnt cost much as i was able collect parts slowly over a long time.
I am unemployed and cash is tight , this is why i do not have a charge controller/inverter setup for now.
Output is currently 110v at about 100 cycles per sec instead of 60,puts out about 100-200 watts of power.
It seems to charge my cell phones ok, run LED lights ok, but i was wondering if it would run a satellite receiver? specifically an openbox s9 ,coolsat 5k, Microhd. While i think about it, how about a computer
thanks
 
Is the power adapter on a microhd nothing more than a rectifier circuit? A simple rectifier circuit does not care what the incoming frequency is, it will rectify it to pulsating DC, then smooth out the waveform with capacitors to straight DC.

To be on the safe side, charge a car battery with the 110v 100hz, then have a clean 12v DC source.
Do you have a 12v TV?

EDIT: I missed this part: "this is why i do not have a charge controller/inverter setup for now."
 
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Most power supplies are either rectifiers or switching, neither will care about 100hz vs 60hz.

I used to live off generator power, they are never exactly 60hz and when hit a big load they slow down then speed up etc. The only issue I ever noticed is my cheap alarm clock would be a few min out every day. It used the 60hz power as a metronome for the clock signal :)

UDL
 
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Most of the FTA receivers I've seen have "switching" power supplies in them and will work on a wide range of voltage and freq. I'll say it will probably work ok.
 
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Well, its a long way from right, but here are some pics..
to be right, it needs rectifier (i have) charge controller, inverter. 4 inch buried supply line 600ft long.
and a better valve system as i have a large reservoir of water up the hill that can be used as needed.
it is a continuous 50 gal/min in the winter. currently i can utilize about 16 gal/min. but i could run 120 gal/min with a 4 inch line
i have a 110ft head. Still a long ways from off grid. The micro hydro is made up of a bunch of reject parts refurbished.
I did have to buy the copper wire. i used 16 gauge, but i wonder if 18 would have been better. My max wattage will be 1k when done.

i cover it over with a tarp to keep it above freezing in that area only.
 

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Did you consider a pure DC system, with an inverter for when you really need AC? I've seen a variety of DC appliances for sale.
 
I did have to buy the copper wire. i used 16 gauge, but i wonder if 18 would have been better. My max wattage will be 1k when done.

In a word, NO! Copper wire gauges are inverse to the diameter of the wire, therefore 18 would be what you'd typically get in an extension cord for a table lamp. If anything I would have gone with 14 gauge, because that's what's used in home lighting circuits. Outlets normally take 12 gauge which is even larger. 14 gauge will normally handle up to 15 amps safely (around 1650 watts at normal 110-120 volts - the rule is, volts times amps equals watts). Since you say your max wattage will only be 1k then your 16 gauge may be sufficient provided it's not a really long run - if it is you may get voltage drop and heating of the wires as you approach maximum load.

Count me as another one who is a bit envious of what you'e accomplished! Good job!
 
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Nice, I have wanted to do this for years!
 
Great project! 1kw from hydro is a darn good accomplishment.
I wouldn't post too much about this on the net. The govmint loves to stick its nose into this sort of thing. Many new regs take effect in 2015.
 
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Nicely done!
How much water pressure do you have at the nozzles?
Don't have any topography around here to get enough water pressure to make this work, but nice to see it being done where it can be.

I am planning to build a wind turbine, I have a flywheel and stator from an old boat engine that should produce maybe 150w if I can get it to spin fast enough. Need a heated shop to work on this sort of thing in the winter...
 
The stator is wound with 16, i will eventually be using 10 gauge to come into the house. i already have the wire. Stator is fan cooled.
47psi static water pressure, i can get another 20 foot drop later. no more pipe at this time.
i am not sure what i want for an end voltage or appliances yet, fridge and freezer need to run, water, then i dunno. 12 volt stuff is an option. someday when i have work and money.
this is just a toy for now, but it is hard to sleep with all these lights on all the time.....
 
3 phase windings are likely the most efficient, especially at higher voltages like 240 to 308vac, phase converters can change it to 240 single phase closer to your house (load) so the cables between the generator and house don't have to be so heavy, 10ga would supply 8-10kw depending on voltage.
It starts getting really complex when you want to add your power to combine with the mains and feed power back into the grid for a refund. Phases must be matched and devices that are approved to do this are rather expensive. Then they pay you 5% of the rate they charge you for power... figure that one out! Best to use your own power and cut your electrical bill, at least down to the basic charge. You'll always want it available for backup!
 
3 phase is better, but in this case with the junk parts i made this with, the stators all align with the magnets so that true 3 phase is not an option, only 2 phase is possible and will be done in the future when i have a charge controller ect ect. Currently the 2 separate stators connected in series to max voltage to run house components directly. this gives a lot of clogging torque but there is little wattage loss from the single step up transformer . this transformer is so big, i cannot lift it without help.
 
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