Advise on How to aim SuperDish 105

juansat1

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Aug 29, 2004
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I have a superdish 105 that I am installing on ground post...I would like advise on the proper way to site in this dish.. My Questions are...

1. Should you site in 110 or 119 first then 105 .

2. I have a channel master signal meter (is it better to use meter or receiver for 105...this is a new one for me ... i have done a number of D setups and a few dish500 but never a SD.

3. what signal strengh should I expect on 119 110 and 105...I am in Louisiana.

do appreciate any help or advise.
johnny
 
Welcome aboard! Good questions!

The answers are: it's mostly up to you.

I think it'll be easier to get a lock on 110/119 when you start, but you'll need to finish with 105 anyway.

Your meter should work just fine - but I prefer to finish the job by using the Point Dish screen when possible.

There's some variance by receiver type, but 100+ on 110/119 transponders 11 & 12 is feasible. 105 is a very weak bird. See if you can beat 70. Remember that 105 is more sensitive to skew because it's FSS - a V/H polarity setup. The 'standard' birds are much more forgiving because they use circular polarity.
 
SimpleSimon said:
Welcome aboard! Good questions!

The answers are: it's mostly up to you.

I think it'll be easier to get a lock on 110/119 when you start, but you'll need to finish with 105 anyway.

Your meter should work just fine - but I prefer to finish the job by using the Point Dish screen when possible.

There's some variance by receiver type, but 100+ on 110/119 transponders 11 & 12 is feasible. 105 is a very weak bird. See if you can beat 70. Remember that 105 is more sensitive to skew because it's FSS - a V/H polarity setup. The 'standard' birds are much more forgiving because they use circular polarity.

Thanks SimpleSimon,
Thats the way I did it..I got around 100 on 110/119 and 62 on 105 by adjusting the az and elv ...I did not adjust skew I left it set on 110 ...should
adjust skew to try for higher 105....on d some recomend not to move skew..but i am not sure about this...

Thanks for you help.
johnny
 
Thats right, you should not move the skew for any reason whatsoever, set it and forget about it. You may have to adjust azimuth (left to right) and elevation (up and down) to get the signal in. In order for your skew and elevation numbers to be true you will need to make sure that your pole is plumb all the way around, otherwise what you set the dish at will not be correct and it may cause you problems.

I always try to get 119 in first since its the main satellite and is a bit easier to get than 105. By tuning into 119 first you know that you are very close if not already getting 105 in when you connect that lnbf up. If the receiver does not have the software for 105/121 then you will have to do download the software first after finding 119 but the new receivers have been shipped with that software for a little while now.

Make sure you do a check switch after finding 105 and connecting 110 to port 2 and 119 to port 3 on the DP-34 switch.
 
What Stargazer said, but if the pole isn't perfectly plumb, if the mounting arm is whacked a bit, and so forth, then the skew calibration might be off a touch.

The caution is to mark exactly where it is now before you screw with it. :)
 
Stargazer said:
Thats right, you should not move the skew for any reason whatsoever, set it and forget about it. You may have to adjust azimuth (left to right) and elevation (up and down) to get the signal in. In order for your skew and elevation numbers to be true you will need to make sure that your pole is plumb all the way around, otherwise what you set the dish at will not be correct and it may cause you problems.

I always try to get 119 in first since its the main satellite and is a bit easier to get than 105. By tuning into 119 first you know that you are very close if not already getting 105 in when you connect that lnbf up. If the receiver does not have the software for 105/121 then you will have to do download the software first after finding 119 but the new receivers have been shipped with that software for a little while now.

Make sure you do a check switch after finding 105 and connecting 110 to port 2 and 119 to port 3 on the DP-34 switch.


I agree with everything here except for the order the inputs are put in the 34 switch...105/121 should always be on port 3 (with 119 in 1 and 110 in 2). If you don't get in the habit of doing that now, you run into major problems with the new DPP 44 switch and legacy receivers that are incapable of seeing 105/121. With the 44, the legacy receivers (like the 4000) will see only ports 1, 2, and 3 where 119, 110 and a third recognizable sat (such as 61.5) will be. If you have 105 in any other position but 4 on the 44 switch you are begging for problems that will take forever to solve. Give it a whirl if you got a 44 switch yet...even Dish advises the order I've listed because of the oldest receivers and there (lack of) compatiblity.
 
I have always used 105 on port 1, 110 on port 2, and 119 on port 3 for the final hookup (after first putting 119 on port 1 to initially tune in the satellite signal) as per the Dish Network SuperDish installation instructions. It has worked everytime but I have only used this for DishPro receivers, not legacy ones, and just for the DP-34 switch.
 
Not Correct...

farmsatguy said:
I agree with everything here except for the order the inputs are put in the 34 switch...105/121 should always be on port 3 (with 119 in 1 and 110 in 2). If you don't get in the habit of doing that now, you run into major problems with the new DPP 44 switch and legacy receivers that are incapable of seeing 105/121. With the 44, the legacy receivers (like the 4000) will see only ports 1, 2, and 3 where 119, 110 and a third recognizable sat (such as 61.5) will be. If you have 105 in any other position but 4 on the 44 switch you are begging for problems that will take forever to solve. Give it a whirl if you got a 44 switch yet...even Dish advises the order I've listed because of the oldest receivers and there (lack of) compatiblity.
If you look at the diagrams, the 105 is on port 1 on the DP34. :eek:
 
I don't have an instruction manual in front of me at the moment, but y'all have fun with the DPP 44 switches coming up where legacy receivers are in play...already been here and doing it using SuperDish, DPP 44, and 61.5 for international and Sky Angel customers with older receivers. Had the problems first hand...
 
Well, maybe some more info. What switch model is the Thread Starter using, for one. Also, what reciever model? :confused:
 
SimpleSimon said:
You might want to read beyond Step 12 of the instructions. :rolleyes:

Step 17 would be good. ;)


corrrect, the way i hooked per instuctions...I think the only reason ports matters s because software update come on 119/110?? and on some receivers may need an update before they see sat 105...So on the SD with
105 port 1 should be 119...SD with 121 Port 1 Should Be 110....
thanks for all the help great forum....

By they way switch is dp34..
johnny
 
Kudos! juansat1 has nailed down the primary reason for the port selection. :)

Mickdog: The diagram was drawn in between steps 12 & 17. :rolling:
 
juansat1 said:
corrrect, the way i hooked per instuctions...I think the only reason ports matters s because software update come on 119/110?? and on some receivers may need an update before they see sat 105...So on the SD with
105 port 1 should be 119...SD with 121 Port 1 Should Be 110.... By they way switch is dp34..
johnny

After you run the switch check then i would think you can get any updates if the cables are on any ports. The reason you have to Use Port 1 to find the birds is its straight throught to the receiver.

I do think you should decide how you are going to hook them up for your own personal trouble shooting. It saves a lot of time if you dont have to trace the wires out before trouble shooting the system.
 
Bruno: Good point - but leaving 119 in Port 1 avoids problems when you add a new box sometime down the road. You can waste a lot of time before you remember your cables are "backwards".

119, 110, 61.5/148, 105/121 is the order of choice - of course 61.5/148 might not be there.
 
SimpleSimon said:
Kudos! juansat1 has nailed down the primary reason for the port selection. :)

Mickdog: The diagram was drawn in between steps 12 & 17. :rolling:

Dish Installation pdf for the super dish clearly shows 105 on port 1! Rolling what? :eek:
 

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Look Mickdog we already know you're a troll. Now you've shown that you can't read an instruction manual, and can only look at the pictures.

Do you have enough brain cells still working to figure out how the inconsistency may have come to pass? Not that I care.

If you actually understood a tenth of what you have professed to know, you would understand why it is better to have a core bird on port 1 at install time.
 
Hey!

SimpleSimon said:
Look Mickdog we already know you're a troll. Now you've shown that you can't read an instruction manual, and can only look at the pictures.

Do you have enough brain cells still working to figure out how the inconsistency may have come to pass? Not that I care.

If you actually understood a tenth of what you have professed to know, you would understand why it is better to have a core bird on port 1 at install time.

Obviously, with your Troll Obsession, you are living in a fantasy world where you think your opinion counts for something! Mine works, and with the Terminators, it works better! Grhhhhhh, woof, woof, woof!!!! Ha, ha, ha-ha! Nanny-Nanny, Boo-Boo!!! :p

Well, as with any Manual, there obviously should be some corrections. The way the Dish is constructed, 119 is the added on LNB, and it makes perfect sense to have it on the added on port (3) on the DP34. The check switch works perfectly fine with that configuration, on both my 311, and my 111. Both receivers took software update when they were installed. So, I guess Dish should do a thorough analysis, and correct their documentation as necessary.
 

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