Both C & Ku / Tuning LNB - F/D F/L

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SatelliteGuys Pro
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Nov 25, 2008
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I have a 10' Winegard Mesh with BSC621-2 and I have set the F/D and F/L perfectly.

Because of the weather, I haven't got to adjust the skew really. - Currently I am only picking up C-band channels.

I am assuming all I need to do is keep rotating the 621 until I find a happy skew medium for both C and Ku.

Is this correct or can the F/D and F/L affect picking up C and Ku?

Thanks Happy Holidays.
 
....can the F/D and F/L affect picking up C and Ku?
Yes.
I tried using the mathematical way with poor results.
I ended up using the trial and error method, with good results.
The only Ku TP I don't seem to get is the Fox KUIL on AMC4.
No problem with the DVB-S2 PBS on AMC21.
I'm sure I could tweak to get KUIL, but winter rolled in.

To set my f/d, I used an existing Fixed f/d(non adjustable) Chapparral Feedhorn. With the BSC621 on the Dish, I put the Mouth of Chapp. to the Scalar of the BSC621, then slide in the BSC621 until it meets the Chapp Scalar, rotate the BSC621 to proper skew.
For Skew, I have the Arrow at 12 o'clock(Dish at True South).
Let me know if that doesn't make sense, I can post a Pic.
 
Yes.
I tried using the mathematical way with poor results.
I ended up using the trial and error method, with good results.
The only Ku TP I don't seem to get is the Fox KUIL on AMC4.
No problem with the DVB-S2 PBS on AMC21.
I'm sure I could tweak to get KUIL, but winter rolled in.

To set my f/d, I used an existing Fixed f/d(non adjustable) Chapparral Feedhorn. With the BSC621 on the Dish, I put the Mouth of Chapp. to the Scalar of the BSC621, then slide in the BSC621 until it meets the Chapp Scalar, rotate the BSC621 to proper skew.
For Skew, I have the Arrow at 12 o'clock(Dish at True South).
Let me know if that doesn't make sense, I can post a Pic.

Okay, thanks. So I guess I might have to play with the skew, F/D and F/L.

My BSC621-2 doesn't have an arrow. It has a 0, with 30 on each side. - dishpointer.com said I should have the skew at 0.9* counterclockwise behind the dish.

If you could post a pic of your setup, that would be great. Just to have.
 
Here are a few Pics that may help
1 - Setting f/d using Chapp. as guide, check all around so that it's even / straight / square to the Scalar.

2- Skew, note position of LNB Box, it kinda points to 6 o'clock, Dish would be at True South.

I did not worry about Focal Distance from the Dish, I just set to best signal starting with C Band, then Ku.
 

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Merry Christmas

I took the trial and error road and it worked best also. Took some long hours to get the RTN's to work on G-3 due to its FEC and my 7.5 dish once I got that all the others work well. You do give up some signal to get both but it works.
 
My BSC621-2 doesn't have an arrow. It has a 0, with 30 on each side.
Wouldn't be the first that importer changed their product and didn't document it on their web site.
However, here is what they call out for the BSC-621's:
- specs 'n differences between the 621 and 621-2
- finding focal point for Ku and C-band
- technical bulletin showing alignment arrow on the body of the LNB
If what you have doesn't match these pictures, you should contact the company for updated documentation.
Post it here, and give us a picture, too.
 
Good stuff. I think I got it now.

I will lock in the F/D and not mess with it. - Them I will try to find a F/L and skew where both C and Ku come in the best.

I don't have much room to change the F/L on my 10' Winegard. I think there is about a 2 inch span, depending on the holes I put it in. Hopefully it is more a skew issue than F/L. - I have been able to pick up both C and Ku separately, so just need to find that medium.
 
I have a tough time following this whole thread, so I'll just point out some basic issues. First, I come from a professional commercial satellite background, not an FTA hobbyist and some of the terms are a little different to me. For instance, to me, f/D and f/L usually mean focal distance or focal length, which are the same thing.

I am assuming your 10' Wineguard is a prime focus feed, not an offset feed.

A satellite dish is a basic parabolic reflector and calculations are based on geometry. Signal frequency has nothing to do with it. Whether you are using the dish for C band, Ku band, audio from far away, or cooking hot dogs with sunlight, the focal length is the same for all of them. The formula for calculating focal length is:

Focal length = f
Depth = c
Diameter = D
f = ( D * D ) / ( 16 * c )
(Measure the depth using a tight fishing line across the dish and a rule to measure depth c. See picture below.)

I typically set the feedhorn for the focal length to about 1/2 inch into the throat of the feed horn. During fine tuning, if necessary, I occasionally adjust it in or out a small amount for peak signal strength.

Skew is also, for the most part, not related to frequency but to the polarization of the received signal. You say you are using a 10' dish. I'm going to assume this dish was originally used for TVRO or some other service requiring motion, hence it is on a polar mount as opposed to an az/el mount that most fixed dishes use. With a polar mount, you begin by setting up the dish pointing at due south at the peak of the arc of the polar mount. You then set your skew to zero degrees and your elevation as needed for your latitude. Through the design of a polar mount, as it moves from horizon to horizon, the whole dish tips accordingly and skew is automatically compensated for. As you are desiring to use both C and Ku bands with this dish, my recommendation is not to use lnbfs but to get a good scalar combination C/Ku feedhorn with the appropriate ports and put simple lnbs on them. It might be a little more expensive in the initial setup, but will be a much better operation in the long run.

HTH
 

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I have a tough time following this whole thread, so I'll just point out some basic issues. First, I come from a professional commercial satellite background, not an FTA hobbyist and some of the terms are a little different to me. For instance, to me, f/D and f/L usually mean focal distance or focal length, which are the same thing.

I am assuming your 10' Wineguard is a prime focus feed, not an offset feed.

A satellite dish is a basic parabolic reflector and calculations are based on geometry. Signal frequency has nothing to do with it. Whether you are using the dish for C band, Ku band, audio from far away, or cooking hot dogs with sunlight, the focal length is the same for all of them. The formula for calculating focal length is:

Focal length = f
Depth = c
Diameter = D
f = ( D * D ) / ( 16 * c )
(Measure the depth using a tight fishing line across the dish and a rule to measure depth c. See picture below.)

I typically set the feedhorn for the focal length to about 1/2 inch into the throat of the feed horn. During fine tuning, if necessary, I occasionally adjust it in or out a small amount for peak signal strength.

Skew is also, for the most part, not related to frequency but to the polarization of the received signal. You say you are using a 10' dish. I'm going to assume this dish was originally used for TVRO or some other service requiring motion, hence it is on a polar mount as opposed to an az/el mount that most fixed dishes use. With a polar mount, you begin by setting up the dish pointing at due south at the peak of the arc of the polar mount. You then set your skew to zero degrees and your elevation as needed for your latitude. Through the design of a polar mount, as it moves from horizon to horizon, the whole dish tips accordingly and skew is automatically compensated for. As you are desiring to use both C and Ku bands with this dish, my recommendation is not to use lnbfs but to get a good scalar combination C/Ku feedhorn with the appropriate ports and put simple lnbs on them. It might be a little more expensive in the initial setup, but will be a much better operation in the long run.

HTH

Thanks for the reply. - I think by F/D I was really meaning focal ratio. Based on some other recommendations I have it at 5/8" right now, from the scalar ring.

I will double check the depth of the dish and lock in the F/L.

I will play with it some more and see what I can get.

Thanks!
 
Yes, there are times in dish engineering that deal with the focal ratio, or f/D, which is the ratio between the focal length (f) and the diameter of the dish (D). This is not going to change and is normally a one time setting during installation. Some scalar assemblies are designed to be used with multiple dishes. They would be marked with the f/D they support by their design. Typically, that would be in the .30-.40 range. During installation, you set up the dish, verify for flatness and centering with the cross string method, take your actual as built measurements, then calculate your focal length. Once you have your focal length you calculate your focal ratio f/D and set the feedhorn within the scalar ring accordingly. The scalar ring is usually held in place by set screws. Once assembled, there should be no need to change it unless you use the assembly on another dish. Now, you mount your feedhorn assembly on the dish, insuring the scalar ring is parallel or flat with the dish and the feedhorn is pointed directly to the center of the dish. You adjust the feedhorn so your focal length is about 1/4-1/2 inch inside the throat of the feedhorn.

I hope I have made things a little clearer than muddier.

Good luck.
 
mbarnes,
Not sure if you've been following on the 621 saga, but they are a bear to get C & Ku both dialed in for optimum signal. It's pretty hit and miss and you usually give up signal on one or the other to find a happy medium. F/D and FL tend to play a big part in just how good the 'medium' is.
It doesn't help much that there are no F/D markings on the barrel of the 621 so we're left with using another feedhorn with the markings and setting the 621 based on that... and I'm STILL not certain that it is actually the best way for the 621 to be dialed in... maybe one day one of us will find the breakthrough method to get great performance out of these things...
 
I guess I didn't pick up too much on the 621. My comments were based on a typical Chaparral type feed horn and scalar ring.

A scalar ring is used around the throat of a feedhorn and adjusted to coincide with the f/D or focal ratio. As your focal length shortens and brings your feedhorn closer to the dish, you want what appears to be a wider opening to catch more signal from the side. As your focal length increases, you want your throat to appear narrower to reject signal from the sides which is most likely terrestrial interference. Therefore, on the feed assemblies that specifically adjust for it, there are markings to adjust the plane of the scalar in relation to the throat of the horn. That is set depending on the parameters of the dish used. Then the assembly is mounted so that the whole thing can be moved in and out to give proper focal length into the opening of the feedhorn.

In the case of the 621, the scalar is actually more of a mounting plate to use with existing BUD mounting hardware. Its horn design doesn't really allow for use with a scalar, at least for the purpose for which the scalar was designed. So, you don't need f/D markings. You just set the focal length and you should be good.

After reading some more on the 621, some of their claims and instructions and photos, personally, I would not waste my time with one. Their product descriptions sound like they came from a snake oil salesman.

If you are serious in your desire to use both C and Ku on one dish, then get a decent Chaparral dual feed horn and put C and Ku lnbs on it and press on.

My $.0002.
 
I may look into Chaparall's in the future. - For the price, the 621 seemed like a good buy. Plus there have been a lot of users who have had success with them, it is just a matter of getting it dialed in. Mine is pretty close and I am working on other mods as well. Need a break from the weather though.
 
From a broadcaster engineer's statement...."The Ku antenna and the C antenna have to have the same focal point to work. It would be very difficult* to get both focal points at the same distance in a straight cylinder." In short he would never use one. The dish has one focal point. I do not understand much about this issue, but I will go with separate dishes.

* His description of difficult was too graphic for a PG 15 forum.
 
.......
However, here is what they call out for the BSC-621's:
........
- finding focal point for Ku and C-band
........

This web page doesn't make much sense to me. As mentioned by rv1pop below, a dish has 1 focal point, and in theory, it should be the same point for either C or Ku, but the diagram they have at the above link shows them being different, and makes it seem like somehow the Ku from the edge of the dish can go through the sides of the feed to get to a probe deep inside. I don't have a clue about what they are trying to suggest here.


From a broadcaster engineer's statement...."The Ku antenna and the C antenna have to have the same focal point to work. It would be very difficult* to get both focal points at the same distance in a straight cylinder." In short he would never use one. The dish has one focal point. I do not understand much about this issue, but I will go with separate dishes.

* His description of difficult was too graphic for a PG 15 forum.

Yes, the dish has one focal point, in theory, however I have seen a couple things that make it appear that C and Ku are focusing differently.

One thing is that C-band dishes can work well on C-band, but be very imperfect on Ku. When I put little mirrors on my 10' dish, and aimed at the sun, the darn spots were all over the place, most not coming anywhere near the throat of the feedhorn. This tells me that with a consumer C-band dish, you're just lucking out at finding the spot which gets the most reflections from the dish, and this may or may not be at the actual theoretical focal point of the dish.

The 2nd thing, is that even with a perfectly shaped dish that DOES focus the same on C and Ku, one can appear to get C and Ku to focus at different places, particularly if the feed isn't at the correct focal length. From what I've observed, this seems to be because when you are not at the correct focal length, the pattern of a Ku signal at the feed becomes shaped somewhat like a donut, while the pattern of a C band signal just gets a bit blurred. I think that if you were further away from the focal length (proportional to the different wavelengths), that the C band signal would also be like a donut, but the Ku signal distorts sooner due to it's shorter wavelength.
This donut thing is sort of analogous to side lobes, except that the center lobe goes away. You can see the same sort of thing with a magnifying glass focusing light from the sun. Ie you can see rings instead of a spot when not at the right distance.
Anyway, what I've observed, is that if the focal length is wrong, the maxima for C-band will still be centered at the proper point across the arc, but Ku will tend to have maxima that are off by several tenths of a degree or more, and will have a minimum where the sat should be located. This is why, as mentioned by someone earlier in this thread, that you should aim at C-band first. By aiming at C-band first, you insure that you're aiming at the sat. Then if you vary the focal length distance of your feed to maximize the Ku band signal, which will be changing the donut shaped pattern into a spot.

Anyway, I may be all wet on this explanation, but it seems to fit what I've observed, and by going through the above process, on several occasions, I gone from a dish that seemed to have Ku focusing nearly a degree different from C-band, into a situation where they both focus at the same point.
The adjustment is often difficult to make, however, so often I tend to give up and just put the feed so that the measured theoretical focal point is about a quarter inch inside the throat of the feed, and that usually works OK, at least as a starting point.
But the bottom line is that it can be sometimes difficult to get C and Ku on a C-band dish, and it can be either because the shape of the dish isn't perfect, or because the feed isn't at the proper focal length, however I don't believe the suggestion that C and Ku really focus at a different point. In theory the focal points should be the same, but things can make them appear to focus at different points.
 
I have been able to pick up both C and Ku and different times with great quality, I just haven't had the chance to try and get both dialed in at the same time, because of the weather.

I thought I had to just adjust the skew, but from the sound of these postings, it seems the best way is to set the F/D, F/L based on the dish calculations as a starting point, the set the skew. Then leave the skew set, and play with the F/D and/or F/L to try and find the best happy medium.

Basically opposite of what I thought in the first post of this thread.
 
Keep in mind that the focal length is a geometrical issue and skew is a signal polarization issue. Apples and oranges. While both impact the quality of the received signal, otherwise they are not related. IOW, adjusting the focal length has no issue on the skew and vice versa.

In my experience, I set the focal length per calculation, then, if needed, fine tune for maximum signal strength. Once that is set and locked down, I then adjust skew for maximum signal quality.

Regarding the focal ratio, f/D, unless you are using a combination scalar/waveguide type mount designed for adjustments to account for different sized dishes. You don't even have to worry about it. This is usually limited to older C band dishes made more than ten years ago.
 
Due to the higher frequency, therefore much shorter wavelength, the dish geometrics and surface coating is much more critical than for C band. So, a C band dish may not always be suitable for Ku use, however, a Ku dish, assuming it is large enough, will almost always work suitably for C band. If you really want to do dual band operation one dish, IMHO, the best option is to use separate LNBs on an appropriate feedhorn assembly.

Something like this.
 

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Keep in mind that the focal length is a geometrical issue and skew is a signal polarization issue. Apples and oranges. While both impact the quality of the received signal, otherwise they are not related. IOW, adjusting the focal length has no issue on the skew and vice versa.

In my experience, I set the focal length per calculation, then, if needed, fine tune for maximum signal strength. Once that is set and locked down, I then adjust skew for maximum signal quality.

Regarding the focal ratio, f/D, unless you are using a combination scalar/waveguide type mount designed for adjustments to account for different sized dishes. You don't even have to worry about it. This is usually limited to older C band dishes made more than ten years ago.

Okay, thanks. - I will be sure to update you on my results.
 
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