BUD Dish Motor problem

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iBoston

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Jul 15, 2014
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North Central
I don't know how old this system is. But, it appears the sensor is not keeping track. If i go back and forth across the arc, the numbers do not match when i come back to an existing dish. Does it matter which sensor switch connects to the controller? Is there a way to clean the sensors? or do i need to buy a new motor? And if so, where in the U.S. can i get a good motor for a good price?
 
Can you give us some good photos of the inside of the actuator motor, so we can see what you have in there? I don't mean the gear area, just the back where the wire connector and such is.
 
If the sensor is returning counts to the controller, it usually is working. If the counts are missing or added, then noise is interfering with the cycle counts or the switch may be not opening/closing properly.

1a. When moving from programmed satellite motor position #1 to preprogrammed satellite motor position #2, does the motor stop short of reaching the satellite and you must manually drive the motor in the same direction to reach the correct position?
or

1b. When moving from programmed satellite motor position #1 to programmed satellite motor position #2, does the motor move past the satellite and you must manually drive the motor in the opposite direction to reach the correct position?

2. Is the controller being used as a stand-alone controller or is a receiver issueing DiSEqC 1.2 motor control commands to the controller?

3. Are you assigning a new DiSEqC 1.2 motor position for each satellite count position?

4. How long of cable between the controller and the actuator?

5a. What type of cable? 5b. Gauge?

6a. Does the sensor wire bundle and/or the servo control wire bundle have a shield and drain (bare wire) separating the sensor wires from the motor power (M1/M2) wires?
or
6b. Are all the wires in a single bundle?

7. If the S1/S2 wire bundle has a ground and drain wire, where is the ground drain wire connected?
 
1a. When moving from programmed satellite motor position #1 to preprogrammed satellite motor position #2, does the motor stop short of reaching the satellite and you must manually drive the motor in the same direction to reach the correct position?
or
1b. When moving from programmed satellite motor position #1 to programmed satellite motor position #2, does the motor move past the satellite and you must manually drive the motor in the opposite direction to reach the correct position?

Ill have to get back to you on that to be sure (tomorrow) I believe it is stopping short.

I noticed this when i was outside and the run was only about 3 feet. I was writing the numbers down so i could return back to the same position. Example. I noticed today when i was outside with the 3 foot run, i set the top of the arc to 0 which was satellite 89 deg. I then drove all the way down to 107. When i tried to return back to 0, i was not back at the top of arc. I then had to continue east by about 10 position points.
 
6a. Does the sensor wire bundle and/or the servo control wire bundle have a shield and drain (bare wire) separating the sensor wires from the motor power (M1/M2) wires?
or
6b. Are all the wires in a single bundle?

7. If the S1/S2 wire bundle has a ground and drain wire, where is the ground drain wire connected?

6a - not sure i understand this question
6b - its two very small black wires that come out of the actuator. Then there are two thicker wires that come out of the back of the motor.
 
2. Is the controller being used as a stand-alone controller or is a receiver issueing DiSEqC 1.2 motor control commands to the controller?

3. Are you assigning a new DiSEqC 1.2 motor position for each satellite count position?

4. How long of cable between the controller and the actuator?

5a. What type of cable? 5b. Gauge?

2/3 - Both, outside, i was using the stand alone. Inside i was starting to save positions through DiSEqC commands, and both inside and outside it doesn't appear to return the dish back to the same position.

4/5 - Well, it was happening outside too when i was only running 3 feet. But, the final result will be under 100 foot cable, but before i cut it to length is 100 foot. It is a 16/7 shielded outdoor wire.
 
Definitely sounds like motor noise, rf generated in the motor windings, brushes, etc. Try a capacitor across the motor terminals on the actuator.

What is 16/7 shielded outdoor wire? Photo or link?
 
Would it do that with a 3 foot cable run though?

Connect a .01 ?F, 50 volt (minimum rated / approximate value) capacitor
between the M1 and M2 wires at the actuator motor. The capacitor minimizes
the motor RF noise from interfering with the sensor and servo control circuits.

Are you saying i buy one capacitor and tie-ing one end to M1 and the other end to M2 ?
 
Are you saying i buy one capacitor and tie-ing one end to M1 and the other end to M2 ?
Yep, and put it at the actuator. Anything close to .01 will work, do you happen to have anything laying around, or any old electronics you could rob a cap from?
 
Definitely sounds like motor noise, rf generated in the motor windings, brushes, etc. Try a capacitor across the motor terminals on the actuator.

What is 16/7 shielded outdoor wire? Photo or link?

Sorry 16/3 x (2)
aircraft wire cable 16-3 shield
screenshot.1413941614.jpg
 
Yes, use a non polarized capacitor.

How are you using the 16/3 cable? For the sensor S1/S2 circuit? If so attach the shield drain wire only on one end. I usually connect it to a screw grounded to the actustor housing.

What are you using for the motor M1/M2 wires?
 
Yes, use a non polarized capacitor.

How are you using the 16/3 cable? For the sensor S1/S2 circuit? If so attach the shield drain wire only on one end. I usually connect it to a screw grounded to the actustor housing.

What are you using for the motor M1/M2 wires?


I am a bit confused by what you mean by the shield drain wire? There are two identical very small gauge wires that come out of the actuator housing. How do I know what is what? One of the 16/3 is for the sensor wires. A second 16/3 is for the motor wires.
 
Usually a cable has a bare wire that is part of the shielding. This is called a drain wire. If not, just ground the shield.

Attach the shield from the sensor bundle to a screw grounded to the actuator housing. Do not connect the shield on the other end (in your house). Attach two wires inside this bundle to the sensor's two wires.
 
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